American Posted May 23, 2018 #26 Posted May 23, 2018 I'm sorry, I disagree. Go back and read what you posted. It is a personal advertisement for Redline oil. This thread was meant to review the bike. It wasn't meant as an opportunity for everyone to come in and proclaim their favorite oil brand. There are plenty of other threads out there to do this. This is why I didn't mention the brand I used. The point of my addition was: - I didn't use Yamalube - I used another synthetic - I used 10w-40 instead of 15w-50 - The transmission whine went away. I am NOT trying to assert that the brand I used got rid of the whine. That judgement will wait until after the next oil change when I swap oils again. My theory is that using a non-Yamaha 10w-40 synthetic got rid of the whine. The ONLY thing I know from what the parts guys at the dealership said that MIGHT have something to do with it is that the Yamalube 15w-50 has a lot of esters in it. I have no idea about the ester content of the oil I chose, so I don't know if this had anything to do with it. Too many unknowns here, so I focused on what I know would matter: synthetic, 10w-40, non-Yamalube. To address another point from your post, the 10w-40 I used is not marketed for V-Twins. There are some on the market that are, but tend to be 20w-50. Given the temperature scale of that viscosity, I wanted something that was rated for lower temps, and I wanted to be sure the viscosity was noted for others. Point being: this bike does not require oil targeted at V-Twins. Indeed, if you read the material around these oils, they seem to be targeted at HD V-Twins. Once I get to 8000 miles and try the other brand oil, and if the transmission whine comes back, I'll consider naming the oils I used. Until then, 10w-40 synthetic, non-Yamalube name-brand oil seems to do the trick just fine. I am sorry I upset you, I have no issue with people who name what products they use, however it is kind of pointless to say you done something then refuse to name the product you used. I have used Royal Purple in the past as well in my cars and Suzuki outboard motor, however I have never tried Royal Purple motorcycle oil but I suspect it would be a good choice as well. I ran Redline 10w-40 in my Victory 106 V-Twin. I live in Southwest Florida and our summer temps will climb up into the high 90's so down here a 20w-50 can be a good thing. Yamaha give a wide range of oils you can use from 10w-40 up to 20w-50 with a couple of selections between those two. Choice is a good thing no need to to hide what products you are using, I as well own a 2018 Yamaha Star Venture Transcontinental so I am just stating what I have put in mine and it is working just fine.
Du-Rron Posted May 24, 2018 #27 Posted May 24, 2018 I like the taste of Rotella T6. Fruity and dry and leaves no heavy after-taste.
ChiefGunner Posted May 24, 2018 #28 Posted May 24, 2018 I like the taste of Rotella T6. Fruity and dry and leaves no heavy after-taste. ROFLMBO! You’re a HOOT Du-Rron!!
XV1100SE Posted May 24, 2018 #29 Posted May 24, 2018 Actually a lot of us with 2nd Gens use Rotella T6. Wet clutch and it works nicely, is less expensive than some of the other oils. Not a plug for Rotella....just saying. Possible for the SVCT ?
ChiefGunner Posted May 24, 2018 #30 Posted May 24, 2018 Actually a lot of us with 2nd Gens use Rotella T6. Wet clutch and it works nicely, is less expensive than some of the other oils. Not a plug for Rotella....just saying. Possible for the SVCT ? Not familiar with it. Is it also a full synthetic?
XV1100SE Posted May 24, 2018 #31 Posted May 24, 2018 Not familiar with it. Is it also a full synthetic? https://www.shell.ca/fr_ca/business-customers/lubrifiants-pour-les-entreprises/gamme-de-lubrifiants/shell-rotella-t/_jcr_content/par/tabbedcontent_1f41/tab_6d25/textimage_207d.stream/1423055009539/498bee4e195fd4011e1dc6cf1d17c521213b4d1d9417cf8bf993078d880f0e8b/rotella-t6.pdf It also has JASO MA-2 Certification
ChiefGunner Posted May 24, 2018 #32 Posted May 24, 2018 https://www.shell.ca/fr_ca/business-customers/lubrifiants-pour-les-entreprises/gamme-de-lubrifiants/shell-rotella-t/_jcr_content/par/tabbedcontent_1f41/tab_6d25/textimage_207d.stream/1423055009539/498bee4e195fd4011e1dc6cf1d17c521213b4d1d9417cf8bf993078d880f0e8b/rotella-t6.pdf It also has JASO MA-2 Certification I appreciate that. Stats look impressive. What about the “esthers”(sp?) that people were talking about?
American Posted May 24, 2018 #33 Posted May 24, 2018 I appreciate that. Stats look impressive. What about the “esthers”(sp?) that people were talking about? The thing to remember about ester is that ester is a group V synthetic, ester has a positive charge which means it will cling to metal parts. Group IV synthetics are PAO and do not have that positive charge so they can and do drain off of metal parts. That is why many group IV PAO synthetics will add some group V ester synthetic to them, the ester will cling to the metal parts. PAO synthetic are also very good synthetic oils.
American Posted May 24, 2018 #34 Posted May 24, 2018 (edited) The thing to remember is that our transmissions/primary's are gear driven and the Yamaha design of this engine lubricates the engine, primary and transmission, being this is a shared sump type system that is all gear driven it is harder on the oil. Group II oils have viscosity modifiers added to them and group II oils are conventional oils so the oils molecules are all different sizes with the smaller molecules getting used up quickest due to the gear style system shearing them. That is why group II oils require viscosity modifiers to assist them with durability. Group III oils are just higher refined conventional oils that remove more of the impurities from the oil but it still has different size molecules and requires viscosity modifiers like its group II brother. Mobil filed a complaint against Castrol oil with an advertising board (NAD) saying that group III oils are not synthetic oils as Castrol oil had started labeling their group III oils as full synthetic. The advertising board sided with Castrol oil allowing them to label their group III oils as full synthetic oils. The same group III oil labeled as full synthetic in America can not be labeled as synthetic in Germany/Europe as they do not allow group III refined oils to be labeled full synthetic. The extra refining of a group III oil is also called hydro cracked which is just another term for the higher refinement. Group III+ is a newer class of conventional oil that is PROCESSES FOR CONVERTING NATURAL GAS INTO LIQUIDS. It is also called GTL for gas to liquid, these oils are made by Shell who holds the patents on this process and is closer to a group IV synthetic. There is not a lot of information on group III+. Group IV oils are true synthetic meaning every molecule is the same as all the others, that is why group IV oils do not require viscosity modifiers, group IV oils are PAO made from polyalphaolefins. Group V oils are all other synthetics not in group IV category like esters. In group V oils every molecule is the same as all the others. Ester does have one advantage with that being ester is a positive charge so it clings to metal parts aiding in cold starts. That is why you will find group V ester added to a lot of group IV, III and even semi-synthetic oils. My preference is to run a full group V ester based oil. It should be noted that the only oils certified for use in turbine engines are group V ester based oils, no group I, II, III, III+ or IV oil can withstand the high temp environment of a turbine engine. Being we are running an air/oil cooled designed engine I like knowing that I will never have to worry about my group V oil breaking down due to heat if I get stuck in some traffic. Here is a rough example of what I am talking about when I refer to the size of molecules in the oil make up. The two straight lines represent bearing surface or gear surface and the upper case, lower case "o" and number zero will represent the molecules. _____________________________________________ OO0oo00OOoooO0OOo0O00OO0o000ooOOOO0o0oO --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Assume the bottom line is touching the molecules. Notice the different shapes of the molecules with the larger ones touching the bearing surfaces and smaller ones not touching all of the bearing surface. Also the smaller molecules will be sheared quicker braking down the oil viscosity and that is why viscosity enhancers have to be added. Now here is a group IV or V true synthetic oil. ____________________________________________ OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Assume the bottom line is touching the molecules. See how every molecule is touching the bearing or gear surface? that means more protection, plus there is no need to add viscosity enhancers. This is just a basic explanation of the groups of oils and the difference between a true synthetic oil and group II, III, III+ oils. Group I oils are very lightly refined and not used in engines outside of antique engines and will be a non detergent oil so group I oils are not used in todays engines at all. Edited May 25, 2018 by American
ChiefGunner Posted May 24, 2018 #35 Posted May 24, 2018 The thing to remember is that our transmissions/primary's are gear driven and the Yamaha design of this engine lubricates the engine, primary and transmission, being this is a shared sump type system that is all gear driven it is harder on the oil. Group II oils have viscosity modifiers added to them and group II oils are conventional oils so the oils molecules are all different sizes with the smaller molecules getting used up quickest due to the gear style system shearing them. That is why group II oils require viscosity modifiers to assist them with durability. Group III oils are just higher refined conventional oils that remove more of the impurities from the oil but it still has different size molecules and requires viscosity modifiers like its group II brother. Mobil filed a complaint against Castrol oil with an advertising board (NAD) saying that group III oils are not synthetic oils as Castrol oil had started labeling their group III oils as full synthetic. The advertising board sided with Castrol oil allowing them to label their group III oils as full synthetic oils. The same group III oil labeled as full synthetic in America can not be labeled as synthetic in Germany/Europe as they do not allow group III refined oils to be labeled full synthetic. The extra refining of a group III oil is also called hydro cracked which is just another term for the higher refinement. Group III+ is a newer class of conventional oil that is PROCESSES FOR CONVERTING NATURAL GAS INTO LIQUIDS. It is also called GTL for gas to liquid, these oils are made by Shell who holds the patents on this process and is closer to a group iV synthetic. There is not a lot of information on group III+. Group IV oils are true synthetic meaning every molecule is the same as all the others, that is why group IV oils do not require viscosity modifiers, group IV oils are PAO made from polyalphaolefins. Group V oils are all other synthetics not in group IV category like esters. In group V oils every molecule is the same as all the others. Ester does have one advantage with that being ester is a positive charge so it clings to metal parts aiding is cold starts. That is why you will find group V ester added to a lot of group IV, III and even semi-synthetic oils. My preference is to run a full group V ester based oil. It should be noted that the only oils certified for use in turbine engines are group V ester based oils, no group I, II, III, III+ or IV oil can withstand the high temp environment of a turbine engine. Being we are running an air/oil cooled designed engine I like knowing that I will never have to worry about my group V oil breaking down due to heat if I get stuck in some traffic. Here is a rough example of what I am talking about when I refer to the size of molecules in the oil make up. The two straight lines represent bearing surface or gear surface and the upper case, lower case "o" and number zero will represent the molecules. _____________________________________________ OO0oo00OOoooO0OOo0O00OO0o000ooOOOO0o0oO --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Assume the bottom line is touching the molecules. Notice the different shapes of the molecules with the larger ones touching the bearing surfaces and smaller ones not touching all of the bearing surface. Also the smaller molecules will be sheared quicker braking down the oil viscosity and that is why viscosity enhancers have to be added. Now here is a group IV or V true synthetic oil. ____________________________________________ OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Assume the bottom line is touching the molecules. See how every molecule is touching the bearing or gear surface? that means more protection, plus there is no need to add viscosity enhancers. This is just a basic explanation of the groups of oils and the difference between a true synthetic oil and group II, III, III+ oils. Group I oils are very lightly refined and not used in engines outside of antique engines and will be a non detergent oil so group I oils are not used in todays engines at all. WOW American, you know your lubes! Thanks for the education. Now I know not just WHAT I want to run in my SVTC but WHY.
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