Barnett Clutch Installation

[Freebird]

BARNETT CLUTCH CONVERSION INSTALLATION
 

The parts were ordered from Rick at Buckeye Performance in Ohio.   The fiber discs ONLY were replaced given the wear and mileage, the plates were reusable.  

Parts used:

FRICTION PLATE #YA26H-16321-01-04  (notched/6 ea.)

FRICTION PLATE #YA26H-16307-01-00  (un notch/1 ea.)

Retaining wire

BNT-SR-2 CONVERSION SR-2 SPRING CLUTCH (1 set)

STARTING NOTE:  This was done without removing the clutch pedal or linkage.  Also note that with the bike on it's side stand, there is little or no loss of oil. 

1.  Remove the clutch housing cover.   

 

After removing the bolts the cover may need a bit of persuading to give it up.  CAUTION! A rubber hammer is recommended, as one was not available when this was done, a hammer was employed along with a very thick towel to soften the taps to the housing.

2.  With the cover removed the next step is removing the diaphragm and pressure plate. These items won't be used and can be discarded or stored.  This time the 6 bolts were reused.  Others have replaced them with new bolts.

3.  Next remove the old friction plates and discs. Note: there is a set of 1 plate and 1 disc held at the very bottom of the clutch basket by a thin retaining wire. The wire is held in place by a couple of bent ends that are pushed through a hole in the basket. The wire needs to be removed and the last two pieces taken out.  

4.  The empty basket.  Clean and get ready for reassembly.  Check the edges of the uprights for any burrs or imperfections.

 

NOTE:  When inserting the discs make sure that you have the tang with the double notches aligned with the two 'dots' on the clutch basket.

5.  Place one disc and then (the odd) friction plate (#YA26H-16321-01-00) and one re-used spacer into the base of the basket. Make sure they are soaked with fresh oil.   (take note that there are no notches on the first disc)  Place the NEW wire into the channel cut into the basket and into the notches of the basket uprights and secure it by pushing the bent ends into the hole. Be patient.  A long thin screwdriver also facilitates the job.

 

 NOTE:  You can never have enough oil on the new discs and plates. 

When inserting the discs and plates, double check to make sure that the notches are lined up with the two dots on the lip of the basket.

 

 NOTE:  Here is what a full basket looks like.

6.  The final plate goes in.

7.  Place the Barnett Clutch pressure plate on the basket. The instructions with the Barnett show the "Barnett" label up, but you will probably need to rotate it until it fits right.  Just rotate the plate until it is seated without any gap between the plate and the top disc.

8.  With the plate sitting correctly in the basket and the ease of the spring compression to start the bolts.  Torque the bolts at 8 lbs.  

 

9.  Put the new gasket on, the housing on and secure the cover. 

Time involved is about an hour to an hour and a half. 

[GeorgeS]

I did this same job, I followed the Instructions that came with the new

Barnett Clutch and pressure plate assemblies. Had No problems!

 

Also, this would be a good time to replace the Clutch Hyd Slave Cylinder !! If your over 30K.

 

One more thing, Thats a good picture of HDTR !

[stardbog]

Great Job.... Thanks. Is it same procedure for 2nd Gen's. ??

[Guest HdHtr]

I did this same job, I followed the Instructions that came with the new Barnett Clutch and pressure plate assemblies. Had No problems!

 

Also, this would be a good time to replace the Clutch Hyd Slave Cylinder !! If your over 30K.

 

One more thing, Thats a good picture of HDTR !

 

Jack took the pics and offered his cheese cake smeared fingers for assistance ... wait ... this was before he started bogart'in the cheese cake and changed his name to Condor!! So his fingers musta been clean ... or at least not too sticky.

[RickH]

Great Job.... Thanks. Is it same procedure for 2nd Gen's. ??

 

Simlar

[wizard]

Hey! Shouldn't a fellow wear pants when working on a motorcycle? Small parts could get lost.