Chaharly Posted May 6, 2018 Author #26 Posted May 6, 2018 Well it most likely wasn't the basket, that doesnt look too bad. I dont have any experience with skydocs kit, I've never found the need for altering stock setups in a street application, but I'm not a Venture expert in particular. Skydocs kit has great reviews and isnt likely to be your issue, but strictly from a diagnostic perspective , if I were working on a customer's bike "blind" and all I knew was that the stock setup had been altered, the first thing I would do is return to a stock configuration and diagnose from there. But again, with everything I've read here about the kit it doesnt seem likely that that's your problem. If may be air in the hydraulics, it may be time to rebuild the clutch master, worn internals can result in a portion of the stroke being used to pressurize the system instead of applying movement. Worn cups don't seal well until flared against the cylinder wall, and you could easily be using the first little portion of your application stroke to establish pressure, instead of applying it. I've had this show up after replacing a hydraulic component and bleeding the system, sometimes the really really fine rubber powder (That black stuff at the bottom of the master cylinder) provides sealing assistance and when you flush it all out you lose some seal. You won't even know it's happening but you can lose enough action to make a difference. Try observing the movement of the clutch when operating the lever, once the little bit of slack is taken up any movement of the lever should result in immediate movement of the clutch; take up the mechanical slack between the lever and the master piston then while feeling the clutch with one hand move the lever gently with the other. You should be able to ascertain where the strictly mechanical slack between the lever and piston is, and beyond that there shouldn't be any hydraulic slack, and movement of the lever should immediately result in movement at the other end. Kind of a hard thing to describe, but you should be able to tell when the system actuates relative to where it should. Man, I wish I had my hands on this thing. Tim Thanks so much for they help. They've got us working 13 hour shifts right now so ill pull the cover back off tomorrow and see if there's any play in it. Your directions are crystal clear. Once you've got the mechanical slack out it should like pushing 2 metal pieces together. Absolutely no give what so ever
7 lakes Posted May 6, 2018 #27 Posted May 6, 2018 Thanks so much for they help. They've got us working 13 hour shifts right now so ill pull the cover back off tomorrow and see if there's any play in it. Your directions are crystal clear. Once you've got the mechanical slack out it should like pushing 2 metal pieces together. Absolutely no give what so ever You're very welcome! This is fun. Yes, that's what I was trying to get across, once there isn't any slack between the lever and the master piston it should feel like your hands on either end of a steel rod. Since these systems aren't really pressurized at rest, there will always be a minute portion of the stroke that is "wasted" in pressurizing the system, but it should be so slight that it takes effort to feel. Tim
Chaharly Posted May 6, 2018 Author #28 Posted May 6, 2018 You're very welcome! This is fun. Yes, that's what I was trying to get across, once there isn't any slack between the lever and the master piston it should feel like your hands on either end of a steel rod. Since these systems aren't really pressurized at rest, there will always be a minute portion of the stroke that is "wasted" in pressurizing the system, but it should be so slight that it takes effort to feel. Tim Fun for one of us
7 lakes Posted May 6, 2018 #29 Posted May 6, 2018 Fun for one of us Well, fun is like a good dog, sometimes it finds you and sometimes you have to go lookin. It'll be fun when we fix it, right? Hey, how come there aren't any mechanical smilies? I need a big hammer ... Tim
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