Power Draw

[BratmanXj]

Last year I split the fairing to install spot lamps, after that I had a parasitic power draw that would drain my battery in about 5-7 days. So I went out and did a bit of diagnosing tonight and put the ammeter and its pulling 135 ma with the key out. Pull the 10a "BACK UP" fuse and the drain goes away.

 

I haven't had a chance to look through the Service Manual and I figured I'd throw this up to the people much smarter than I am with these motorcycles... Any help on where to start looking for a chaffed or pinched wire?

[BratmanXj]

So a quick bit of research once I had some time to pull out the manual. Its the MEMORY SAVE function for the dash (odo & clock) as well as the radio/cb (presets, channel & volume). I guess the next step is to split the fairing and disconnect one-by-one until I locate which circuit is causing the draw.

[Flyinfool]

That fuse feeds 3 things.

The CB, The stereo and the odometer.

Start by unplugging them one by one to find out which one it is that is drawing power.

 

The CB has a 3 pin connector with only 2 positions used.

The stereo has a very big connector.

The odometer is the bigger of the 2 connectors to the dash.

If unplugging these does not kill the draw, then someone has either added something else to the circuit, or there is a damaged wire somewhere. Although a rubbed wire will usually not have that small of a draw, it will usually show as a dead short and pop the fuse. But a rubbed wire is still a possibility.

[Flyinfool]

No fair, you typed faster than me.....................

[BratmanXj]

Ya had from 9:00 last night till 9:00 this morning...did it take you THAT long to type that?!?

 

I did replace the steering head bearings a few years back so the whole front end has been off before. A chaffed wire is a possibility. I remember reading somewhere about people having issues with the radio connectors corroding and causing shorts, but i can't seem to locate those postings anymore. I guess my riding season won't start for a few more days

[Flyinfool]

I type really slow.......

[BratmanXj]

So I go out to the garage yesterday and pull the fairing face off... Now I can't "find" the power draw?!?

 

Need to pick up some new batteries for the multi-meter, all out of 9v and the one in my meter was weak. Also going to grab my buddies Amp-Clamp and high-end fluke meter (the perks of a best friend who was a diesel mechanic).

[Flyinfool]

Before you start poking around in the faring, do some close looking. Maybe the fairing was pushing on a wire that was causing the draw and now the the fairing is off the pressure on the wire has been released.

[BratmanXj]

Before you start poking around in the faring, do some close looking. Maybe the fairing was pushing on a wire that was causing the draw and now the the fairing is off the pressure on the wire has been released.

 

Exactly why I didn't do anything without the draw showing up on the meter. When I touch the red cable back to the battery it does arc a little, so I believe the draw is still present.

[Flyinfool]

Exactly why I didn't do anything without the draw showing up on the meter. When I touch the red cable back to the battery it does arc a little, so I believe the draw is still present.

 

Getting a spark does not necessarily mean there is a draw. It could just be filter capacitors charging up. They will make a tiny draw for just a split second. If the meter no longer shows a draw, then you are now chasing the dreaded intermittent electrical issue.

[BratmanXj]

If the meter no longer shows a draw, then you are now chasing the dreaded intermittent electrical issue.

 

Been there, done that...had an intermittent issue my Mercury Mariner a few years back. Finally traced it down to a bad ground under the drivers seat. The irony was I had already checked to make sure the bolt was tight, but it was cross-threaded and didn't SEAT all the way down leaving an intermittent dropping ground.

 

Again...hoping its a case of bad meter and I'll take a look at it again tonight with fresh batteries and/or different meter.

[ChiefGunner]

Exactly why I didn't do anything without the draw showing up on the meter. When I touch the red cable back to the battery it does arc a little, so I believe the draw is still present.

While you have stuff pulled apart, check the condition of your plugs. It’s not uncommon for corrosion to develop on them especially on older bikes. Do yourself a favor after cleaning them and put some dielectric grease in them. It keeps water out and prevents further corrosion.

Also, I noticed your fuse board has a lot of dirt. Clean that up as well. Dirt build up can also create a “sneak circuit” with a low draw. The fact you stated that the issue disappeared when you pulled the front off leads more to a possible plug issue. If it were a wire, you’d have a straight up short & popped fuse as someone already mentioned.

Just an FYI, all the connector plugs have dielectric grease put in at assembly. Years of heat, washing & rain slowly remove it and then pin corrosion starts.

[BratmanXj]

While you have stuff pulled apart, check the condition of your plugs. It’s not uncommon for corrosion to develop on them especially on older bikes. Do yourself a favor after cleaning them and put some dielectric grease in them. It keeps water out and prevents further corrosion.

Also, I noticed your fuse board has a lot of dirt. Clean that up as well. Dirt build up can also create a “sneak circuit” with a low draw. The fact you stated that the issue disappeared when you pulled the front off leads more to a possible plug issue. If it were a wire, you’d have a straight up short & popped fuse as someone already mentioned.

Just an FYI, all the connector plugs have dielectric grease put in at assembly. Years of heat, washing & rain slowly remove it and then pin corrosion starts.

 

I spend a few hour playing with the wiring on on Saturday night and it seems to have gone away now that the fairing is open. So time for some preventative maintenance:

 

1. A can of contact cleaner and a toothbrush and go to town on the electrical system.

2. Dielectric grease all the connectors

3. Make sure to be very careful when "repacking" all the harnesses back into the fairing.

[ChiefGunner]

I spend a few hour playing with the wiring on on Saturday night and it seems to have gone away now that the fairing is open. So time for some preventative maintenance:

 

1. A can of contact cleaner and a toothbrush and go to town on the electrical system.

2. Dielectric grease all the connectors

3. Make sure to be very careful when "repacking" all the harnesses back into the fairing.

 

I think you’re in the right track with that approach. The fact it’s disappeared with the skin off IMHO leads to plug connector either in the harness OR something that was plugged in but removed so you could pull the skin off.

Dont forget to clean off your fuse board too.

[BratmanXj]

Well, I thought I had this one licked but a recent stretch of rainy weather keep me off the bike for a week and I came back to a dead battery. Time to pull her back apart and do some hunting.

[Patch]

Just because you need a wild card to ponder;)

Not sure which bike this was on but,, it turned out to be a dirty ignition switch! ACC contact

[M61A1MECH]

Also make sure the top of the battery is clean and dry, a film of dirt and oil on the top of a battery can connect the positive and negative terminals and create a slow drain on the battery and often times will get worse in damp wet conditions.

[BratmanXj]

Just because you need a wild card to ponder;)

Not sure which bike this was on but,, it turned out to be a dirty ignition switch! ACC contact

 

Because it's intermittent I was thinking about it possibly being a "bridged" ACC contact in the switch. Was going going to get in there with some contact cleaner as a preventative maintenance.

 

Ironically I had to do some electrical maintenance on my mother's pontoon after years of trouble-free service. Tachometer and trim gauge went wonky and ended up being dirty contacts on the main harness.

[Patch]

The ignition switches on most bikes can be problematic. Often we see that the light grease turn to a mild conductor from either air traveling through the switch plate depositing grit or contact ware being trapped in the lube..

 

Such is life

 

You must be a good son, if Mom kept your number;)

[BratmanXj]

Finally getting around to pulling the bike out for spring and about to tackle the ignition switch. I remember reading somewhere about how to remove the switch and service. So I dremel a groove in the two tamper-proof screws holding the barrel down and remove them?

 

Anyone have pictures of the switch opened? I want to get in there with some contact cleaner and wire brush to make sure nothing is "arcing" causing my intermittent power draw, then grease the hell out of it.

 

[Du-Rron]

Finally getting around to pulling the bike out for spring and about to tackle the ignition switch. I remember reading somewhere about how to remove the switch and service. So I dremel a groove in the two tamper-proof screws holding the barrel down and remove them?

 

Anyone have pictures of the switch opened? I want to get in there with some contact cleaner and wire brush to make sure nothing is "arcing" causing my intermittent power draw, then grease the hell out of it.

 

 

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?111175-Ignition-Switch-Repair

[BratmanXj]

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?111175-Ignition-Switch-Repair

 

That's the one I couldn't find! I was looking at a different tutorial that was not a good. Thank you

[BratmanXj]

So I go out last night and futz with the bike. Ignition switch has been replaced at some point in the past because the tamper-proof screws were replaced with regular screws. Open it up and everything is clean, give it a quick wipe with contact cleaner & dielectric grease and put it back on. I did see some green corrosion in the connectors so gave them a scrub and grease. Now the bike will turn on, but starter wont engage. Dash lights all light up, radio comes on, etc. Oil/coolant light come on when you hit the starter button (in neutral, clutch pulled, kickstand up...) so I think it's a bad contact somewhere in the kill switchs

 

Next steps:

1. Check battery cables

2. Clean Kick Stand Switch

3. Clean Kill Switch

4. Clean Starter button

 

Anything else?

[Flyinfool]

Check Solenoid connections.

Check BOTH ends of ground wires.

[BratmanXj]

Cleaned the kill switch and now she runs....

But I lost the hazard flashers!