start clutch / fly wheel pull special tools ?

[6m459]

Ok so I have decided that its finally time to do my starter clutch. I've lived with it slipping & clattering for several years, but now its just causing too much 'will it start' anxiety these days when ever I go anywhere.

 

I'll probably end up doing it my self. I did my stator coil last year so I know my what into the fly wheel. My question is, do I need a special puller tool to get the flywheel off?

 

I have a big puller that seems to be up to the job but I am worried that the hook ends on it might not fit between the fly wheel and the starter clutch gear.

 

Is a special tool needed or recommended for the pulling of the fly wheel, or is a common garden variety puller likely to be useable?

 

Thanks,

 

Brian H.

Uxbrige Ont

[hipshot]

brian. the "hook end", puller WILL NOT work. look over on the left side menue bar.

click on "VR tech"

when it opens, scroll down to "engine and drive train". open that section, there you will find a write-up posted by freebird, on starter clutch replacement. complete step by step, with pictures.

just jt

[Rocket]

Is a special tool needed or recommended for the pulling of the fly wheel, or is a common garden variety puller likely to be useable?

 

Thanks,

 

Brian H.

Uxbrige Ont

 

A harmonic balancer remover tool, from an auto parts store works nicely. I pulled mine for a look last year.

[Venturous Randy]

A little trick that helps is first of all, I used a three bolt puller. Once I put a considerable amount of "pull" on the puller and the flywheel did not come off, I used a real dull punch to hit the area just on the outside of the shaft on the inside of the flywheel. Give it a good smack as you are trying to do a slight deformity on the sleeve.

One point to remember is you want something under the flywheel to catch it because it will pop off very quickly.

RandyA

[6m459]

OK thanks, I see how its done now. Guess I'm off to the auto supply store for a proper puller first.

 

Brian H

[GeorgeS]

The Puller from the Auto Supply will come with SAE Bolts, !!!

 

You will have to buy Three, Metric Size bolts.

 

There are Three holes in the Rotor Just for this purpose. ( for the puller bolts )

 

Be sure to Buy, Hight Strength Bolts, and be Darn Sure the Metric

Thread Count is Correct.

 

If you stip the threads out of th Rotor, your Screwed as they say.

[Rocket]

The Puller from the Auto Supply will come with SAE Bolts, !!!

 

You will have to buy Three, Metric Size bolts.

 

There are Three holes in the Rotor Just for this purpose. ( for the puller bolts )

 

Be sure to Buy, Hight Strength Bolts, and be Darn Sure the Metric

Thread Count is Correct.

 

If you stip the threads out of th Rotor, your Screwed as they say.

 

George, the puller I bought last year came with metric & SAE bolts in various sizes. If one size of the included bolts, can be threaded in more than a few threads by hand & not a sloppy fit, it should be fine. I am finding that my 95 Chev truck has a mixture of metric & SAE bolts / nuts on it (depending on which component I'm working on).

[93 venture]

i Am Also Doing My Starter Clutch,so Far Job Hasnt Been To Bad Till I Got To Pull Off The Flywheel,wow Is That Thing Stuck, I Have A Cheaper Auto Part Store 3 Bolt Puller And It Has Bent The Puller,so Im Gonna Bring Home My Snap On Puller From Work And Try A Little Heat And The Punch,cant Wait To See How Far This Thing Is Going To Fly When It Comes Off!

[GeorgeS]

Yes, I had to use Heat,

 

I applied the Heat, then gave three sharp raps.

 

I had to repeat this three times, Each time I increased the force

of the 3 hammer raps, it came off on the Third try.

 

My thinking was to not use more then necessary.

 

 

Also, a comment as to the Length of the Metric Bolts to use. Be sure that the bolts are long enough to AT least go completly thru the Hole depth.

 

Due to the amount of Force Required, make sure you take advantage of the Full Depth of the Threats that Momma Yamma has supplied.