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Intake manifold boots

wrscomncents
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Freebird

Freebird

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Posted

I know what you are talking about now I think. You mean where the rubber boots connect to the top of the carbs? If so, I did look in the manual and maybe I missed it but I didn't see the torque settings for them. I can tell you this though, you don't want to overtighten them or they will work their way off.

wrscomncents

wrscomncents

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This manual is available in the Second Generation and Royal Star Technical Library see page 2-22 for torque specs.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?14-Second-Gen-and-Royal-Star-Technical-Library-READ-ONLY!

 

 

Thanks for the link. I actually have that manual and also a Clymer manual. I can find the torque settings for almost every part of this machine except the carb boots. I am talking about the hex head bolts that secure the carb boots (intake manifold boots) to the cylinders. There are two bolts on each boot. I am about to reinstall the carbs after rebuilding them. I also removed the boots to examine them for wear. I guess I could just tighten them down and let it go at that but I can't imagine there isn't a torque setting for those bolts. Maybe others can tell me how they tightened theirs down. I'm a little anal on torque specs. Thanks for the help.

BlueSky

BlueSky

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Thanks for the link. I actually have that manual and also a Clymer manual. I can find the torque settings for almost every part of this machine except the carb boots. I am talking about the hex head bolts that secure the carb boots (intake manifold boots) to the cylinders. There are two bolts on each boot. I am about to reinstall the carbs after rebuilding them. I also removed the boots to examine them for wear. I guess I could just tighten them down and let it go at that but I can't imagine there isn't a torque setting for those bolts. Maybe others can tell me how they tightened theirs down. I'm a little anal on torque specs. Thanks for the help.

rrr

I have a Gen 2 manual on CD and all it has is something it calls a Caburetor Joint Screw, M4 x 0.8, Qty 4, 2.2 ft. lbs. I rarely put a torque wrench on anything. I've been working on my cars for over 50 years and just use my calibrated hands and arms on most stuff. I did use a torque wrench on my trucks front hubs since it was speced at 221 ft. lbs and other stuff like that, that is critical.

Freebird

Freebird

Posted
Posted

Looks to me like your best bet is to determine the bolt size and then go with one of the torque settings on another bolt the same size. If it's an M6, I think I saw that most were around 7.2 ft. lbs. You would need to verify that though. I looked at it yesterday and could be wrong.

bikenut

bikenut

Posted
Posted

Normally when a o-ring is used there is no torque needed.Just put them tight and the o-ring will do its job. When I did mine on my 86 all I did was just make them tight and just a little more but be careful not to do to much because the screws are small and may strip out easy. Just My 2 cents.

Have a great day

bongobobny

bongobobny

Posted
Posted

A couple of things when replacing the "O" rings on the bottom of the boots. First, make sure the O ring groves are clean and there are no scratches in the groves that would cause any kind of leak. Rubber sealing against an uneven surface is one thing, but if you have a gouge that is quite another thing!! If you magnify a gouge, it has in essence a 90 degree angle to the edge which rubber can not effectively seal up! Second, try to polish the flat surface on the intake side of the head to also insure a good tight seal. At least get any and all carbon deposits off of the metal...

  • 2 weeks later...
Phishhead61

Phishhead61

Posted
Posted

I have to replace my boots also. I'm confused by the discussion about the "O" rings at the bottom of the boots.

 

I have a '98 Royal Star Boulevard, but I looked at the parts diagrams for mine and a 2004 RSV and I don't see any additional "O" rings to order. I also looked at a picture of the boot and it appears to have an "O" ring built into the bottom of the boot. I don't want to pull it all apart again until the boots I ordered come in, but I don't want to wait on more parts after I pull it all apart, SO the question is, when you are discussing "O" rings, are they the ones that come on the boot, or are there additional "O" rings that need to be ordered (and if so, what are the part numbers...I can't find them in the spec sheets).

 

My boots were cracked through at the tops and causing issues. They are 20 years old and after removing and replacing the carbs a couple of times they split through.

 

Just as an FYI to anyone having the issue with the boots splitting at the top, I used a product called Seal-All on all the cracks. I followed the directions and put 2 coats of it on and it held for 3 days of riding. It's still holding as far as I can tell, but I will replace them as soon as the new boots get here.

 

Rich

PhishHead61

wrscomncents

wrscomncents

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Phishhead61

 

I have a 99 Venture Royale and mine were exactly like yours. There were no replaceable O rings. There is an oval seal on the bottom of the boot but it cannot be replaced. I also studied the diagram break down and it dose not show an O ring. There may be replaceable O rings on some of the other models but mine does not have them. I'm not sure about replacement boots, I'm pretty sure mine are the stock boots.

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