electrical-fuse or what on an 86

[cruiserlover]

I just got an 86 yesterday.It looks great but isnt running.I cant even test it with a key.The relative of the former owner put a new fuse box in it.It looks great, but i havent had time to check it out for proper wires in the proper place.But on my 83 parts bike with the stock fuse box the wires seem to be in the right place.I have a very small hot battery that is capable of powering up everything i own, at least enough for testing function or not function.I put that battery in, turned the key,nothing.I looked at the main fuse, it didnt blow.I did hook up the test battery backwards initially.The red cable I assumed to be positive.its on the right side as you sit on the bike.I found that to be negative on my parts 83.I moved the battery, reconnected the proper posts and still nothing.My theories are since no fuse blew from connecting wrong the first time is either the ignition switch isnt even connected, or its connected wrong, or 2. some wire, ground or positive or both have come loose.On a glass fuse its easy to see if one blows.These are the more modern fuses, that come in colors, have a brasslooking wire that bridges from one side of the fuse to the other.I put the battery in the old bike and yes its lights come on, the motor turns over.I dont have a multimeter, but do have one of those testers that looks like an icepick to test for either hot wire or not a hotwire.Sorry i dont know electrical jargon.

[cruiserlover]

I figured it out.the large red wire from the battery has a fuseable link close to the battery.It blew. Its not like any link I have seen. the piece that conducts the power is a steel looking rectangle,like the ones inside a glass fuse.It might have been a large glass fuse originally.It is hooked directly on either end with a phillips screw.The link is a white connector.the metal strip is anchored one end on the female side and one end on the male side.I suppose buy a link at autozone with a 15 amp fuse and put it in its place.

[Marcarl]

Sounds to me like you might have blown the cover off of the holder, there is a cover that came with it originally. Not sure of the amperage of that fuse but it will be more tan 15amp. They put a spare in the holder at the factory. If my memory serves me correct, then it's a lead fuse with open inserts at either end offset 90 degree to each other.

[cruiserlover]

Sounds to me like you might have blown the cover off of the holder, there is a cover that came with it originally. Not sure of the amperage of that fuse but it will be more tan 15amp. They put a spare in the holder at the factory. If my memory serves me correct, then it's a lead fuse with open inserts at either end offset 90 degree to each other.

 

how do i find out the amps.I dont see it in the manual pictures at all

[Marcarl]

how do i find out the amps.I dont see it in the manual pictures at all

 

I just checked the other site, says it is a 30 amp fuse, and a spare is located in a similar box almost next to it.

[cimmer]

I think before I would install the new fuse, I would double check and make sure you dont have a short in the wiring. You should be able to check with an Ohm meter, with the fuse out from the red wire to ground and make sure you see an open, ie very high resistance, verses a short with 0 ohms resistance. Might save you chasing down another fuse or two. There had to be something that caused this fuse to pop in the first place.

According to the manual, the main fuse is a 40A. I found that in the specifications section of the service manual on page 8-18 under the circuit breaker section.

 

Hope this helps.

Rick F.

[Marcarl]

I think before I would install the new fuse, I would double check and make sure you dont have a short in the wiring. You should be able to check with an Ohm meter, with the fuse out from the red wire to ground and make sure you see an open, ie very high resistance, verses a short with 0 ohms resistance. Might save you chasing down another fuse or two. There had to be something that caused this fuse to pop in the first place.

According to the manual, the main fuse is a 40A. I found that in the specifications section of the service manual on page 8-18 under the circuit breaker section.

 

Hope this helps.

Rick F.

 

You're right Rick, I was check I did was for a 2nd Gen.

[Flyinfool]

I replaced my main fuse with a 40A Maxi Fuse. At least spares are easy to find should I ever need one.

[cruiserlover]

you guys are great.thanks so much

[cruiserlover]

I put an inline fused link,40 amp in place.A minifuse type.Its a little larger than mini.Now the headlight and tailights work,the dash lights work, the horn and when I hit the button it turns over.I am on the road to ressurect.The guy i got it from said he thought the tci was bad.It was getting gas and turning over but never starting. next i am going to change the oil.What is the red flashing light that comes on when the key is on.Is that a low oil light? I need to check the radiator, it might be dry.I read the radiator holds 2.8 quarts.How much antifreeze and how much water.Is tap water ok? It is in a car. The fused link that I reconstructed is really just a loop that makes a circle from the post back to the main red wire.it does not seem necessary but when the glass fuse blew before nothing worked. I figured one red wire from the positive battery post, then it to the main fuse, then to the regulator and onward to the ignition switch.I know now the ignition circuit and starter circuits work.I need spark.I wil take one plug out still connected to its respective sparkplug wire.Hit the button wheil the plug is touching the cylinder head and see if any spark occurs.The tank I am sure is messed up and the carbs after sitting.I dont hear or smell gas though.But it could have evaporated. on the red loop wire thing i made- the connector had an eye loop on its end.I just have the redwire stripped and bent around the loop.It gets hot,very warm to touch.The fuse didnt blow.Maybe i need to do it right and make a solid connection between the 2 ends. At least now i know some things do work. I will put photos on here soon.

[cimmer]

Glad that worked for you, but I would strongly suggest that you download the service manual for the bike from this link.. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3384-First-Gen-Service-Manuals

It will help you with all you are trying to do and where things are located and such. I use mine all the time when I am working on my bike.

 

The two red wires coming off the bike are for two different functions. The line with the fuse is for power for the whole bike electrical system while the thicker wire is the lead to the starter replay and then to the starter. You need both in the system for it to work properly.

 

The red flashing light means that there is an issue that the computer sees on the bike. There should be another icon lite on the panel and that will tell you what the bike thinks is an issue. Let us know what icon is lite or take a picture of it and we can let you know how to resolve it.

 

Besides checking for spark, I would look into the gas tank with a light and see if you have any rust in the tank. If the bike was stored without gas in it then there is that possibility that there is rust in there and that will have to be dealt with first.

 

If this was my project, I would change out all fluids in the bike, including brake fluids, rear end, forks, cooling system, and oil. At this point you dont know how long it has been since it was last done. Here is where the service manual is handing it letting you know what to do.

 

Keep asking question and post pictures and we will do our best to guide you thru it all and have a fine riding bike.

 

Rick F.

[cruiserlover]

Now that I know several things work I intend changing everything out.Its worth doing.I imagine the oil is like maple syrup.I suspect the brake fluid has jellified.Etc.Thanks for the flashing light explanation.I do have a manual.For and 83-84.It should have all pertinent information I suspect.

[cruiserlover]

My pictures came out too dark.The voltage gauge on the right the needle is setting at the bottom.That probably doesnt move unless the engine is running.In the center of the dash the flashing light is there but stopped flashing.what is visible is an oil can, a bike that looks leaned over, a picture of a battery, and what appears to be a picture of the gas level in the motorcycle.

[cimmer]

It appears you are low on oil, the side stand is down and the battery doesnt have the probe inserted into one of the cells. The fuel gauge is located on the right side of the panel and 6 bars that indicate fuel level in the tank. You have 4 usable gallons with one gallon in reserve. The gauge shows empty when you are on reserve and then an gas pump icon appears on the panel with the red light.

If you check the service manual on page 7-64, it describes what each of the icons mean and how to resolve the issue.

The voltage meter only works when the engine is running as does the red warning light also.

Hope this helps you out..

 

Rick F.

[bongobobny]

As far as antifreeze goes, a 50/50 mixture provides the optimum protection regardless of what engine it goes in! Tap water is OK, but distilled water only costs about a dollar a gallon at any supermarket, so why not invest in it and not worry about any contaminants in your tap water???

[cruiserlover]

great information.On the battery probe-why in the world, I have never seen that before.The replacement battery I assume will have a hole to plug it in to.The little battery i am using is from a old cb650 I dont have anymore. If there is no need for the probe I will find where its connected downline and remove it. I have 2 83 parts bikes so anything I need pretty much is right next to this bike.It is the beautiful black and gold of that year.The previous guy had removed much of the radio innards.I plan on discarding all that.Extra weight and i wont use it anyway.As long as I just disconnect connectors, that should not create an open circuit that interferes with anything else,right? Just the circuit to the sound system itself will be open which should not cause a problem. I have not checked the tire wear dates,but the front tire is brand new.I read once as long as there is no sidewall checking and the tires arent over 6 years old, they are safe to use.

[Marcarl]

great information.On the battery probe-why in the world, I have never seen that before.The replacement battery I assume will have a hole to plug it in to.The little battery i am using is from a old cb650 I dont have anymore. If there is no need for the probe I will find where its connected downline and remove it. I have 2 83 parts bikes so anything I need pretty much is right next to this bike.It is the beautiful black and gold of that year.The previous guy had removed much of the radio innards.I plan on discarding all that.Extra weight and i wont use it anyway.As long as I just disconnect connectors, that should not create an open circuit that interferes with anything else,right? Just the circuit to the sound system itself will be open which should not cause a problem. I have not checked the tire wear dates,but the front tire is brand new.I read once as long as there is no sidewall checking and the tires arent over 6 years old, they are safe to use.

The battery lead needs to be connected to a power source in order for the red light to go out, but caution!! it needs to have a resistor in the system. Originally the wire had a resistor so all that needs to be done is to fasten it to a power source, but sometimes the resistor is missing and then you can blow your computer, so check it out. The probe senses only 2 volts coming from a good battery. Radio can be removed without any problems. Tire wear, yep, your good in my books.

[cruiserlover]

The battery lead needs to be connected to a power source in order for the red light to go out, but caution!! it needs to have a resistor in the system. Originally the wire had a resistor so all that needs to be done is to fasten it to a power source, but sometimes the resistor is missing and then you can blow your computer, so check it out. The probe senses only 2 volts coming from a good battery. Radio can be removed without any problems. Tire wear, yep, your good in my books.

 

Thanks for the information.I am not sure what a resistor is or where it would be located, but sticking into a battery is not the power source I assume.Where the probe starts from in the wiring is the place to disconnect if possible I guess.Then the light might never go out.That whole probe thing makes no sense.

[bongobobny]

The original purpose of the probe was to alert you if your electrolyte in your battery was low which could have prevented you from being stranded somewhere with a dead battery. It went into the middle cell of your battery. As long as there was liquid at the level of the probe it "sensed" 6 volts but as soon as the level went below the probe it saw zero volts and triggered the logic circuit in the Computerized Monitoring Unit (CMU). Depending on what type of battery you buy for a replacement, it may or may not accommodate the probe. Sometimes the probe would get dirty or corroded and quit working.

 

There is detailed information on how to bypass the probe and fool the CMU into thinking everything is all right. It requires a resistor anywhere within 2000 ohms to 4000 ohms, 1/8 to 12/4 Watt to be installed in series with the probe wire to 12 volts accessory. In simple terms, in series means to solder one end of the resistor to the probe wire, and attach the other end, via a wire, to the accessory terminal on the fuse block. If you do not use this series voltage dropping resistor you will fry the circuit in the CMU. You also do not really want to hook up the resistor directly to the battery as it will very slowly drain the battery as the bike is stored...

[cruiserlover]

The original purpose of the probe was to alert you if your electrolyte in your battery was low which could have prevented you from being stranded somewhere with a dead battery. It went into the middle cell of your battery. As long as there was liquid at the level of the probe it "sensed" 6 volts but as soon as the level went below the probe it saw zero volts and triggered the logic circuit in the Computerized Monitoring Unit (CMU). Depending on what type of battery you buy for a replacement, it may or may not accommodate the probe. Sometimes the probe would get dirty or corroded and quit working.

 

There is detailed information on how to bypass the probe and fool the CMU into thinking everything is all right. It requires a resistor anywhere within 2000 ohms to 4000 ohms, 1/8 to 12/4 Watt to be installed in series with the probe wire to 12 volts accessory. In simple terms, in series means to solder one end of the resistor to the probe wire, and attach the other end, via a wire, to the accessory terminal on the fuse block. If you do not use this series voltage dropping resistor you will fry the circuit in the CMU. You also do not really want to hook up the resistor directly to the battery as it will very slowly drain the battery as the bike is stored...

 

dang.I will definitely look for one a probe goes into.Having been around venture bikes for about 15 years I find the whole wiring thing is way overdone and complicated.I owned 2 83 ventures, a 99 and a 2001.None of them had this probe. I can appreciate it giving a warning.

[Marcarl]

The original purpose of the probe was to alert you if your electrolyte in your battery was low which could have prevented you from being stranded somewhere with a dead battery. It went into the middle cell of your battery. As long as there was liquid at the level of the probe it "sensed" 6 volts but as soon as the level went below the probe it saw zero volts and triggered the logic circuit in the Computerized Monitoring Unit (CMU). Depending on what type of battery you buy for a replacement, it may or may not accommodate the probe. Sometimes the probe would get dirty or corroded and quit working.

 

There is detailed information on how to bypass the probe and fool the CMU into thinking everything is all right. It requires a resistor anywhere within 2000 ohms to 4000 ohms, 1/8 to 12/4 Watt to be installed in series with the probe wire to 12 volts accessory. In simple terms, in series means to solder one end of the resistor to the probe wire, and attach the other end, via a wire, to the accessory terminal on the fuse block. If you do not use this series voltage dropping resistor you will fry the circuit in the CMU. You also do not really want to hook up the resistor directly to the battery as it will very slowly drain the battery as the bike is stored...

 

And yes, Bob is right as usual. There is a probe on that wire, then there should be a resistor and then a connector. You can cut the probe off and then add an end to the wire that can be connected to a switched fuse somewhere, anywhere, just so power can be sensed. Then the light will go off. YOU WILL NEED TO HAVE THE RESISTOR!!!!!!!!!

[Flyinfool]

dang.I will definitely look for one a probe goes into.Having been around venture bikes for about 15 years I find the whole wiring thing is way overdone and complicated.I owned 2 83 ventures, a 99 and a 2001.None of them had this probe. I can appreciate it giving a warning.

 

All of the 1st gen Ventures came with the battery probe, Most people have removed them. The 2nd gens did not have the battery probe.

[cruiserlover]

And yes, Bob is right as usual. There is a probe on that wire, then there should be a resistor and then a connector. You can cut the probe off and then add an end to the wire that can be connected to a switched fuse somewhere, anywhere, just so power can be sensed. Then the light will go off. YOU WILL NEED TO HAVE THE RESISTOR!!!!!!!!!

 

I get it.I need the resistor.I have no idea what it looks like or whether I have one or not. If the probe line does not have one, where do you get one? Hooking into a fused part I am not sure.The archaic glassfuse box was replaced by 1 with minifuses.

[cruiserlover]

pictures.dont know why they are crooked.$200.00 for the bike

[RDawson]

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?489-Battery-Warning-Bypass

Here is the link to kill the battery light. It's a fairly easy fix, one of the first things I did to my 86. Well worth the effort.