Deisel Rick Posted March 15, 2018 #1 Posted March 15, 2018 I have a 1997 royal star tour deluxe. We are on a road trip from Tampa Florida to Key West . My problem is when I’m blowing down the interstate at 75 mph for a tank of gas roughly 120 Miles . I pull in to a fuel stop and pee stop which is only like 15-20 then I jump right back on the interstate. That’s when **** goes wrong. As soon as I get up to speed the bike pops and dies like it’s running out of gas. I pull off to the side thinking I blew up and hit the starter . And it just cranks and cranks. Trim to reserve and for some reason it fires right up and runs great till the next fuel stop on the interstate then it started all over again exactly. But here’s the odd thing . When I get gas at any other time other then on the interstate I have absolutely no issues. Could it be vapor locking ?? First thought fuel filter but that should effect me all the time. So I’m not sure what’s going on here but I have about 900 Miles to go. Help please
XV1100SE Posted March 15, 2018 #2 Posted March 15, 2018 Ever change your fuel pump? Symptoms sound like it. When you turn the key do you hear the fuel pump clicking as normal? If you let the bike sit for 10 minutes (cool down) then hit the starter does it start right away?
Deisel Rick Posted March 15, 2018 Author #3 Posted March 15, 2018 Yes the fuel pump clicks as normal at all times. And when I go to start it all I normally have to do is just tap the starter button and she fires right off . Even on the questioned fuel stop but then it dies.
Deisel Rick Posted March 15, 2018 Author #4 Posted March 15, 2018 I should also add that the bike only has 14000 Miles on it
M61A1MECH Posted March 15, 2018 #5 Posted March 15, 2018 Next time it happens open the gas cap and listen for the sound of air rushing in to the tank. Could be the tank vent is plugged and a vacuum is developing in the tank, starving the carbs for fuel. If that is the case most likely cause is plugged vent hose, need to blow compressed air from tank side down.
Deisel Rick Posted March 15, 2018 Author #6 Posted March 15, 2018 Would over filling the tank cause a problem? I have been trying to get every bit I can in the tank.
Freebird Posted March 15, 2018 #7 Posted March 15, 2018 A couple of questions. You say that when you turn to reserve, it fires right up. Have you tried just leaving in on reserve after you fill up? I would try that first and see if it still happens. The next question is, do you use the kill switch when you stop the bike? If so, try not hitting the kill switch and just turn it off with the key. Neither of those things should matter unless there is an issue with one or the other.
Deisel Rick Posted March 15, 2018 Author #8 Posted March 15, 2018 Yes I use the kill to turn it off then hit the key. I start on reserve and flip right to normal . I just confused why it only does it after running long distance at high speed and then gassing up
Deisel Rick Posted March 15, 2018 Author #9 Posted March 15, 2018 Update !! I think I found my issue. I think it’s the ignition switch. It just did it again sitting in a hotel parking lot. It cranked and cranked then all I did was touch the key and it fired. While running I touched the Kelly again and it shut off. Cranked some more till I touched the key and fired. Thinking switch going bad . Is there away to jump around the switch till I get home and order a new one. ?
videoarizona Posted March 15, 2018 #10 Posted March 15, 2018 Could be the problem. Wondering out loud if a 97 RSTD has the same ignition problems as a 2nd Gen? Too much juice flowing through the switch, eventually burning out the contacts... Well, you will find out when you get home and tear into it. And no, I don't know RSTD's and how to jumper around the switch. Someone here should though....
Deisel Rick Posted March 15, 2018 Author #11 Posted March 15, 2018 From what I’m researching it is a problem with to much voltage burning contacts over time. Hopefully someone will chime in on a bypass till I can get a new one. It’s only a on off switch so I wouldn’t think it would be to hard but I don’t know
M61A1MECH Posted March 15, 2018 #12 Posted March 15, 2018 Find Dion on here, forum name, DJH3, should have a listing in the classified section for ignition bypass. Here is alink http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=697&title=rsv-ignition-by-pass-relay&cat=8 Not sure if the older classic Royals are the same as the Ventures. Yes the early Royal Stars had the same issues, my 98 Tour Classic had the ignition switch right behind the radiator, boy would it get hot, failed on me while under warranty. The later edition bikes were supposed to have a heavier duty switch, after it was replaced I never had any issues with it.
djh3 Posted March 16, 2018 #13 Posted March 16, 2018 Sorry to say the earlier Royal Stars are NOT the same as the 99-2013 RSV and 05-09 TD. But if it is only a 2 wire switch it should not me to hard to figure out a work around. How many keys do you have on your bike key ring? Yes the second Gen stuff does have a arch problem in the switch due to amperage. The earlier stuff most guys I have talked with that have issues it ends up being a tumbler issue internal, whether engine heat causes corrosion or something melts or the internals gum up.
Raven1294 Posted March 16, 2018 #14 Posted March 16, 2018 (edited) So the 05-09 RSTD's are known to have this ignition switch problem also?...Thanks Edited March 16, 2018 by Raven1294
djh3 Posted March 16, 2018 #15 Posted March 16, 2018 No on the 05-09 TD are not AS prone to the issue. Basicly because the RSV has more electrical draw due to radio, cruise etc. Best the folks I worked with could figure the carb heat and lights are the biggest initial draw on switch. It cant hurt to put the relay in as it was not a good idea to run all that power across the switch contacts.
Deisel Rick Posted March 18, 2018 Author #16 Posted March 18, 2018 Sorry it took me so long to get back to you guys . Been on the road. My 1997 has 2 Keys . 1 for the ignition and 1 for the side box locks
Deisel Rick Posted March 20, 2018 Author #17 Posted March 20, 2018 Ok trying to find a ignition key switch. Dealer says there is only 1 in the United States then they are on back order with no restock date listed and the want a whopping $330.00 for it. I found a website called Yamaha sports plaza and they seem to list them for $230.00 but there are 3 different models listed. Xvz13aj , xvz13atj , and xvz13ltj . All have different part numbers and all for a 1997. I have no idea what model I have. Can anyone tell me is it marked some where on the bike. By looking at the parts picture I think I have the Ltj because my key is under the tank up front and the other 2 models seem to be back by the seat but I could be wrong. And there is no return on electrical parts. Help please
Flyinfool Posted March 20, 2018 #18 Posted March 20, 2018 For the duration of your trip I would just hot wire the ignition switch, then you can fix it right when you get home. You should be able to find the parts you need at any hardware store. Once you get home and the time to work on it you may be able disassemble the switch and clean up the contacts and then install a relay bypass kit so that this never happens again. You might not have to buy a new switch. Since your ignition and bags already use different keys, tyhat means that this has happened to this bike before and it got a new ignition switch at that time. With the relay bypass the ignition switch is no longer doing the heavy work so it will last nearly forever, there will be an easy to replace relay that is doing all of the work.
Deisel Rick Posted March 20, 2018 Author #19 Posted March 20, 2018 Thanks for getting back so quickly but I am home at this point. The bike made it almost all the way home. Had to stop for gas about 20 Miles for Home and couldn’t get it to start. The switch is fried. Need a new one at this point no matter what I do. Just want to make sure I get the right one. To much money to waste
videoarizona Posted March 20, 2018 #20 Posted March 20, 2018 Hit ebay looking for a switch. Pinwall cycles has a good rep for parts. Then get with Dion and get a bypass harness made. That will keep what small load there is off the switch. While you are in the area taking out the old switch, might want to look and see if you can put some heat wrap around switch in a way that wont interfere with bike running and steering. Something to protect the switch if heat and moisture is an issue. Just thinking out loud here....
djh3 Posted March 21, 2018 #21 Posted March 21, 2018 If I remember he has a 97. The wiring I have no experience with. But if he can get the switch loose and check it out some things how many wires etc. We might be able to figure out a work around.
Deisel Rick Posted March 21, 2018 Author #22 Posted March 21, 2018 Thanks but I’m home at this point. I’m going to replace the switch with new and hope for the best.
djh3 Posted March 23, 2018 #23 Posted March 23, 2018 Those bikes I think the key is either down low by like front forks and gas tank? Or is it by back of seat by side cover? At any rate make sure you only have one maybe 2 keys on the ring. Bunches of keys put to much tug on the tumblers and can kill the contacts.
Deisel Rick Posted March 23, 2018 Author #24 Posted March 23, 2018 Those bikes I think the key is either down low by like front forks and gas tank? Or is it by back of seat by side cover? At any rate make sure you only have one maybe 2 keys on the ring. Bunches of keys put to much tug on the tumblers and can kill the contacts. Thanks, that,s good to know. Actually i have 2 keys and a big rubber key ring tag on it now that flops all over the place when I'm running down the hy'way . wonder if that had anything to do with it burning out?
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