Sticky choke

[camos]

The right side choke leaver moves a lot less than the left side does. If I push on the right side lever it will move more but I can feel a sticky point. Can it be freed up without pulling the carbs? I've sprayed the linkage with WD 40 and scrubbed with a toothbrush but it doesn't seem to be getting any better.

[cowpuc]

What I would do is remove the choke cable and lube it with a cable luber, then reattach setting it tight so I am getting max pull on the linkage.. Next I would WD40 the cable linkages on the carb - I like WD40 cause the bike and I can bathe in it together without worry of poisoning (experience taught me that) and its friendly with other parts besides linkages... Now I would full activate the choke lever and I would go around to each individual choke plunger on each carb (found under the edge of the diaphram carb bodies) and take a pair of needle nose pliers and lift up on each one - one at a time - to make sure each plunger is coming all the way out. Then I would WD the shaft on those plungers and close them with the lever, repeat and repeat and repeat a few times till each one of those plungers (you cant miss them = I am talking about the plungers with the little mushroom on the end of the shaft that has the fork in the linkage gripping it) prove to be moving freely without me having to help it with my needle nose pliers.. I am not sure (never did it with the Ventures) if you can get those plungers out without removing the carbs if they have to be rebuilt (dried O=Ring, plunger dried out) but I almost think it would be possible sitting here thinking about it.. Seems like the linkages at each fork have a screw in them to remove the fork and give access to the plungers... Shouldnt be to hard to see if what I am talking about is correct..

Hope this helps Cammy!!

Puc

[camos]

I did pretty much what you suggested Puc. The cable was lubricated a week or so ago. The plungers now appear to be operating properly and the hangup seemed to be in the linkage. There is one area up high on the right side that I had initially missed. Once I got that one the choke worked smoothly and they all opened fully. Yea.. success.

 

Once the solvent in WD 40 evaporates there isn't much oil left behind. Should the linkages be lubricated with 30 wt or with a lighter oil such as sewing machine oil?

[bongobobny]

I would go with a lightweight oil such as sewing machine oil over 30 weight as that may cause sticking issues due to the "thickness"

[camos]

I would go with a lightweight oil such as sewing machine oil over 30 weight as that may cause sticking issues due to the "thickness"

That was my thought too but I seem to recall the manual often recommends 30 wt for lubing quite a few things. I do have some sewing machine oil so I'll go with that. Thanks Bob.

[cowpuc]

This product has also served me well thru the years Cammy... Because it's a dry lube, you may find it more to your satisfaction as it also doesnt collect dirt/dust..

http://www.jigaloo.ca/lubricant/1-jig-a-loo.html

 

It also actually smells GREAT (until it drys) - sort of a motorcycle deodorant if you will..

[camos]

This product has also served me well thru the years Cammy... Because it's a dry lube, you may find it more to your satisfaction as it also doesnt collect dirt/dust..

http://www.jigaloo.ca/lubricant/1-jig-a-loo.html

 

It also actually smells GREAT (until it drys) - sort of a motorcycle deodorant if you will..

Hahahaha, love multi-purpose products. I'll check it out, JIG-A-LOO is available at Canadian Tire.

Thanks again Puc.

[Kretz]

Hahahaha, love multi-purpose products. I'll check it out, JIG-A-LOO is available at Canadian Tire.

Thanks again Puc.

 

You could also try a general purpose gun oil.

Also very thin (but not like WD40), usually comes in some sort of spray can, often with a plastic extension nozzle for getting onto those awkward places. Also available at Canadian Tire in the Sporting goods section.

[bongobobny]

Yamaha also used to make a spray can of Teflon lube...