Venturous Randy Posted March 4, 2018 #26 Posted March 4, 2018 Another thing you can do is take a small hammer and tap on the end of the bolt. There is always some space in the threads, even if corroded and with steel and aluminum this can squish some on the corrosion. You don't have to mushroom the end of the bolt, just cause some movement in the threads. This may also help any penetrant to work better. A good penetrant is 50/50 acetone and transmission fluid. Randy
s.tyler58 Posted March 4, 2018 Author #27 Posted March 4, 2018 (edited) Ok, I'm just impatient. Have you tried to get the thing out yet? zagI have not tried further to remove the bolt. I I have replaced the master with 1 which came from the historic "Tweaks"! I'm honored and humbled to have a peice of her to continue on as my travels begin. So I got that one on today and bled. Got the cover back on with the new Helicoil. Oh the owner's manual says to torque M6 by 1 Bolt to 4.3 ft lb. That works out to 51 something inch pounds which sure doesn't seem like very much on those 6 bolts holding that cover over where the slave is. Does that seem right though? ...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye. Edited March 4, 2018 by s.tyler58
s.tyler58 Posted March 4, 2018 Author #28 Posted March 4, 2018 Oh the owner's manual says to torque M6 by 1 Bolt to 4.3 ft lb. That works out to 51 something inch pounds which sure doesn't seem like very much on those 6 bolts holding that cover over where the slave is. Does that seem right though? ...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.
zagger Posted March 4, 2018 #29 Posted March 4, 2018 I have not tried further to remove the bolt. I I have replaced the master with 1 which came from the historic "Tweaks"! I'm honored and humbled to have a peice of her to continue on as my travels begin. So I got that one on today and bled. Got the cover back on with the new Helicoil. Oh the owner's manual says to torque M6 by 1 Bolt to 4.3 ft lb. That works out to 51 something inch pounds which sure doesn't seem like very much on those 6 bolts holding that cover over where the slave is. Does that seem right though? Well, keep in mind that the recommended torque varies a lot depending on whether the bolt is lubricated or dry (less torque for a lubricated bolt). My general rule is to torque until the threads strip out and then back up 1/2 turn! zag
BlueSky Posted March 4, 2018 #30 Posted March 4, 2018 Keep in mind that 4.3 ft lbs means a force of 4.3 lbs pulling at the end of a 1 foot long wrench. It's enough for a M6.
s.tyler58 Posted March 4, 2018 Author #31 Posted March 4, 2018 Well, keep in mind that the recommended torque varies a lot depending on whether the bolt is lubricated or dry (less torque for a lubricated bolt). My general rule is to torque until the threads strip out and then back up 1/2 turn! zagI was on the phone with puc the other day and I told him, " I may not be the most experienced or have been doing a lot of wrenching in the last 20 years but everything I've done on this bike I've done 3 times now! That's gotta count for some kind of experience right?" ...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.
videoarizona Posted March 4, 2018 #32 Posted March 4, 2018 Oh the owner's manual says to torque M6 by 1 Bolt to 4.3 ft lb. That works out to 51 something inch pounds which sure doesn't seem like very much on those 6 bolts holding that cover over where the slave is. Does that seem right though? ...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye. Yes....on my 89 it called for around 100 inch pounds...I simply put my hand over the wrench and turned each bolt evenly until I couldn't turn anymore. With my hands, I bet I was around 8 ft lbs. Not much torque using the palm of your hand. IE, just snug them up in a alternaing pattern so they are even. There isn't any high pressure oil there...just oil.
7 lakes Posted March 4, 2018 #33 Posted March 4, 2018 everything I've done on this bike I've done 3 times now! That's gotta count for some kind of experience right?" I believe that is the actual definition of experience. And if you're only doing it three times to get it down yer doin pretty good. Tim
cowpuc Posted March 6, 2018 #34 Posted March 6, 2018 I have not tried further to remove the bolt. I I have replaced the master with 1 which came from the historic "Tweaks"! I'm honored and humbled to have a peice of her to continue on as my travels begin. So I got that one on today and bled. Got the cover back on with the new Helicoil. Oh the owner's manual says to torque M6 by 1 Bolt to 4.3 ft lb. That works out to 51 something inch pounds which sure doesn't seem like very much on those 6 bolts holding that cover over where the slave is. Does that seem right though? ...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye. :clap2::clap2::thumbsup: that it serves you well for another +300k too Ty!!!!! Hot dogs for everyone when the weather warms and we can :biker::biker::biker:
s.tyler58 Posted March 17, 2018 Author #35 Posted March 17, 2018 (edited) :clap2::clap2:[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106] that it serves you well for another +300k too Ty!!!!! Hot dogs for everyone when the weather warms and we can :biker::biker::biker:Update. I've replaced the radiator. That main drain has a drip a week. Seems like a janky setup, IMHO. Replaced the clutch slave and that cover's no longer dripping. because I torqued to the wrong setting. 1 tech resource said 5.5 foot/pounds and the other said 7.2 foot pounds. Torqued just a whisper past 86 inch/pounds and hope that stops any drips. I'm working on my 15 amp signal fuses blowing. I'm good from the handlebars down to the connection at the front, so it's not in the switches or the blinkers., I've got a short somewhere in the main harness I'm afraid. Chasing the green and brown wires. They also are shorted at the rear signal lights to. If there's any electricians within the sound of my voice I'd sure love it if you'd drop by. ;-) ...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye. Edited March 17, 2018 by s.tyler58
Marcarl Posted March 17, 2018 #36 Posted March 17, 2018 Update. I've replaced the radiator. That main drain has a drip a week. Seems like a janky setup, IMHO. Replaced the clutch slave and that cover's no longer dripping. because I torqued to the wrong setting. 1 tech resource said 5.5 foot/pounds and the other said 7.2 foot pounds. Torqued just a whisper past 86 inch/pounds and hope that stops any drips. I'm working on my 15 amp signal fuses blowing. I'm good from the handlebars down to the connection at the front, so it's not in the switches or the blinkers., I've got a short somewhere in the main harness I'm afraid. Chasing the green and brown wires. They also are shorted at the rear signal lights to. If there's any electricians within the sound of my voice I'd sure love it if you'd drop by. ;-) ...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye. The 2 places I would look first would be in the triple tree and under or around the trunk rack.
s.tyler58 Posted March 17, 2018 Author #37 Posted March 17, 2018 The 2 places I would look first would be in the triple tree and under or around the trunk rack.Everything looks like new but dirty. The trunk rack and rear signal lights are removed. Those wires seem fine. The wires going into the dash test fine. Oh, and I have good ground back to the battery. Do I have to unwrap my harness? ...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.
Marcarl Posted March 17, 2018 #38 Posted March 17, 2018 Everything looks like new but dirty. The trunk rack and rear signal lights are removed. Those wires seem fine. The wires going into the dash test fine. Oh, and I have good ground back to the battery. Do I have to unwrap my harness? ...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye. You wouldn't be the first one to do that, and then find the problem elsewhere. You need to look below the dash, into the triple tree area where the steering head forks move. Bet there is a wire there somewhere that is pinched, but maybe only when the forks are turned, most likely on the right side,, but that is just a guess. You'll need a flashlight and you'll need to get down on your knees. Look from above and below.
Marcarl Posted March 17, 2018 #39 Posted March 17, 2018 Something else you can try, is to take out the faulty fuse and hook a trouble light between the 2 posts of the fuse. Leave the fuse out. Now when you go to use the circuit the light should come on, so you can now fool with the wires while keeping an eye on the light. You'll know you hit the right spot when the light flashes or stays on.
Flyinfool Posted March 17, 2018 #40 Posted March 17, 2018 I have also seen a burnt out bulb blow fuses, when the filament breaks it can fall and cause a short inside of the bulb.
s.tyler58 Posted March 18, 2018 Author #41 Posted March 18, 2018 I have also seen a burnt out bulb blow fuses, when the filament breaks it can fall and cause a short inside of the bulb.Good thought, thanks. I have bulbs out and they work fine with the hazard/4 way on. ...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.
s.tyler58 Posted March 18, 2018 Author #42 Posted March 18, 2018 Something else you can try, is to take out the faulty fuse and hook a trouble light between the 2 posts of the fuse. Leave the fuse out. Now when you go to use the circuit the light should come on, so you can now fool with the wires while keeping an eye on the light. You'll know you hit the right spot when the light flashes or stays on.I like this idea. So I just strip the plug off of any cheap-ass work light or maybe I should go China and make 2,000,0000 of them with mini fuse inserts that do the same thing? A mini fuse with a flashlight bulb on a string ...in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.
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