Any builders/roofers here?

[Freebird]

I need some advice from somebody in the business. I am agonizing over this and have swung back and forth for 3 weeks between tearing what I have down and starting from scratch or trying to put a roof on the frame that I have.

 

Those of you who have attended my maintenance day have seen my 30' x 60' greenhouse that is no longer used for a greenhouse. It has a solid rolled U type galvanized structure with a double ply poly top and sides that are kept inflated by a fan.

 

After more than 10 years, the top is starting to fail and I need to figure out a way to roof it or tear it down and put up a metal building. The problem is that due to the light weight of the plastic top, there isn't a lot of structure. I've seen it with 3 ft. of snow on it so it is fairly strong. The "rafters" are galvanized steel and on 6' centers. The side walls are only 4' and the peak is 14'. The roof is curved. I'll include a picture here to give you some kind of idea.

 

So, I've thought about adding some horizontal supports running between the 6' center rafters and then decking and shingling it but I don't know if that's a good idea or not. I'm basically looking for the most economical way to roof this thing without having to redo it every few years.

 

Any suggestions?

 

[BlueSky]

In my area, you would be required by law to get a building permit. Any home improvement or repair that costs more than $500 needs a permit. Any out building larger than 12' on any side needs a permit. That is why I built a 12' x 12' utility shed last summer. A PE stamp on the structure is probably required by law. Just adding to the confusion. Sorry.

[Freebird]

Not worried about that. If I need a permit I'll get one. First, I need to decide what to do. I've got quotes for a new 30' x 50' metal building but really don't want to spend close to $30,000.00.

[Yammer Dan]

When I was young and really full of it I could throw a bundle of shingles on each shoulder and one across the back to hold them down and take them up a ladder. BUT they ARE HEAVY!!! On that roof?? You could build it up enough to hold it but would require some head scratching & beer drinking!!!

 

Could the supports be added to break it up into 4 ft centers??

[Yammer Dan]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Tuftex-PolyCarb-2-17-ft-x-12-ft-Corrugated-PolyCarbonate-Plastic-Roof-Panel/3043440

Can you see this?? A whole lot lighter and Maybe it would bend enough to fit that slope?? I'm thinking they make a Vent Ridge cap for it. Lap it with prevailing??? Winds?? May not need too many added supports with this.

[Freebird]

Whether it would bend enough is the question. If so, that would cost me about $4,000 plus the additional framing that would be needed. Not bad depending upon how long it would last.

[Kretz]

Not sure the corrugated plastic sheeting would bend to fit that roof shape. Those sheets will bend easily along their length but not across their width. That's the idea of making them corrugated so they're pretty rigid in on direction.

[XV1100SE]

What if you were to have the lumber or materials on site and ready to go, then throw a "party". With around 100 people there, catered lunch, pond for cooling off in.... you could get a new building put together real quick.

[Freebird]

LOL...I would be up for that but getting 100 able-bodied and willing people here to do that might be a bit of a challenge. I'll bet it wouldn't take long to get it done though.

[XV1100SE]

I'm willing to bring my hammer and tool belt.... so that is one able bodied and willing person.

[SpencerPJ]

You might be able to find some sheathing like they use when constructing a RV Carport. Might even find something on Craigslist in your area. Type RV Carport on Craigslist, you'll get some ideas. Might find an installer with slightly dented stuff.

 

Here's a link for ideas

https://www.carport.com/metal-carports/rv-carports/

 

 

Menards sells pole barns as well, maybe they have some damaged roof material?

[cecdoo]

I think trying to prep that roof for shingles and then adding shingles is going to add way more weight then that structure was designed for. There are alot of lightweight fabrics avail. for these dome/blowup type structures out there, but I guess they are expensive because of low demand. Quanset Huts have a corragated galvanized roof pre-bent for roof arc, wonder if you could find supplier for your arch that would stock pre-formed panels. They would be easy to work with, much quicker/lighter then shingles.

 

Craig

[Yammer Dan]

Length from ridge cap to bend on sides?? Do they make sheets that long and would they bend?? I can see this one in my head if they would bend. Go to Lowe's and see how much the longest (or long enough) feel like they want to bend??? Run from Ridge Cap to break that makes legs then run a little gutter type trim ?? If you could order in sheets cut to length to make one sheet runs without joints??Then turn it vertical if you want to continue to ground??Run Vertical on ends?? I think it would outlast me and I'm gonna live to be 110 and get shot by jealous husband!!! Or the Warden......

[Yammer Dan]

I got a hammer......somewhere. Hey Skidster has been bragging about learning to pound nails..... Humm metal frame hard to nail!!! Metal roof screws with washer??

[cecdoo]

Hey, how about alittle additional framing to support substrate for rubber roof, then glue down rubber. 10' wide rolls that will bend over anything. 25yrs no maint. shouldnt be too much added weight?

 

Craig

[saddlebum]

Have you considered shrink wrapping the building. You see a lot of that on farms and industrial sites these days and the choices go right up to multi-laminated heavy gauge reinforced material.

 

Also, unless I am mistaken one of Marcarl,s Sons builds green houses using plastic panels. He may kick in a few ideas as well.

[Woody]

what about taking half of it down making it a 30x30 and using the extra rafters to go in between the other rafters then you have rafters on three foot centers and twice as strong. lay you some metal roofing horizontal like on a carport and screw it down put on a ridge cap and your done. I tired now going to get a beer.

[snyper316]

What if you were to have the lumber or materials on site and ready to go, then throw a "party". With around 100 people there, catered lunch, pond for cooling off in.... you could get a new building put together real quick.

 

Well the other question would be.... are these going to be sober partiers? may not work to well if there is beer involved could end up with the leaning tower of well who knows.

[BlueSky]

When I was young and really full of it I could throw a bundle of shingles on each shoulder and one across the back to hold them down and take them up a ladder. BUT they ARE HEAVY!!!

 

I did that once. Just before going into the Army when I was 23 yrs old I worked for a home builder for about 7 months. One day I carried 3 bundles up a ladder to the roof. The guys stacked 3 bundles on my left shoulder and up I went. It was a dumb thing to do though.

[XV1100SE]

Well the other question would be.... are these going to be sober partiers? may not work to well if there is beer involved could end up with the leaning tower of well who knows.

 

Beer comes out AFTER !

[Condor]

OK I'm back... I read this thread about two hours ago with interest since I'm planing on redoing the patio cover next to the office, and been off researching. I plan on covering it one more time and never again in my lifetime. I'm tired of replacing a tarp every year.. So here's what I plan on using. 1/4"x4'x8' doug-fir plywood and covering it with the same goo they use to seal RV trailer tops. Kinda a white rubber based paint. If those ribs are 4' on center it would be possible to screw them to the frame. 1/4" should be flexible enough to bend to the contour. 1/2" might be too stiff. I don't have to deal with anywhere near the same acreage that you have, but it should be a heck of a lot cheaper than 30 grand. Gonna have to crunch the numbers. One thing you'd need to consider is it's going to be dark inside. Maybe some skylights, or lighting. Depending on electrical access, either a stand alone system with solar panels, or wired directly into the house. Or... possibily you already have something for nighttime light besides a flashlight?? Anyway it's one more suggestion.. Good luck with the project and pics when it's done... 30x60?? I'm jealous..

[cowpuc]

This is what I would do with it if it were mine and I lived where you live:

 

I would not ask for or seek out a building permit. I would have peace in my heart that it is in fact an existing temporary structure and I had no intent in increasing its size.. I would not inquire about a building permit.. It's probably just me but I wouldn't stir the pot by looking for a building permit..

 

I would leave the plastic covering already on it in place.

I would then recover the entire building with that blue tarpage from Harbor Freight one section at a time and make sure that I pulled the tarpage as tight as I could using zip ties around the current galvanized tubing to hold the tarpage in place.

I would then snap chalk lines and run 1x4 purlins horizonally full length of the building laid out on center to support both ridge venting and vinyl siding.

I would purchase a good matching earth tone color of vinyl siding to the color of my home and I would make sure when I purchased the siding that I got it all out of the same factory "run" (noted by the run numbers on the side of the boxes) so my temporary structure didnt look like a checker board when I got it done.

I would run vertical 1x3's down the outside tubing pieces to run my "J" track down so my outer edges had a good finish look and the wind could not get under the edge of the siding and thereby ending up with my siding in the pond monster pond after a windy day.

I would use screws and washers to attach my siding as I worked it up the purlin frame work so they could not back out but I would also make sure that I left the screws slightly loose so the siding could move and wouldn't bunch up when the sun got on it.

I would make sure that my siding edge joint overlaps faced in the direction so the overlapped outer edge had typical directional breezes (usually from the west here in Michigan) blowing over the outside edge of the over lap.. If this was not an issue I would put the overlaps so they faced away from the front of the building giving the look of one continuious run of siding (basically hiding the joints).

In the end I would end up with the original plastic covering on the inside under the new tarpage which would be captured permanently under the siding - the combination of the two adding flexable support to the siding.. If it appeared that this was not going to be quite enough support because of possible snow load I would add additional horizonal 1x3 purlins (or ripped plywood) on center under the middle of each siding section BUT - if that puppy has withstood the test of time with only the plastic on it in the first place,,, I highly doubt this would be necessary.

 

I know this is not perfect but it will probably give you an idea of what I would do if that great big beautiful temporary structure were in my back yard.. There is not way on Gods green earth I would tear it down.. I have seen the building we are talking about (the out house was occupied I had to go pee pee so I,, never mind - to much info - just trust me - I know exactly the structure you are talking about.. I would absolutely in no way even think about taking it down for resizing - if I did I KNOW I would be running a high risk of legally not being able to put it back up without following "code" (and not the same "code" as we follow here at the club house)...

The end,,, or,, the beginning

Edited February 15, 2018 by cowpuc

[Edbo]

I need some advice from somebody in the business. I am agonizing over this and have swung back and forth for 3 weeks between tearing what I have down and starting from scratch or trying to put a roof on the frame that I have.

 

Those of you who have attended my maintenance day have seen my 30' x 60' greenhouse that is no longer used for a greenhouse. It has a solid rolled U type galvanized structure with a double ply poly top and sides that are kept inflated by a fan.

 

After more than 10 years, the top is starting to fail and I need to figure out a way to roof it or tear it down and put up a metal building. The problem is that due to the light weight of the plastic top, there isn't a lot of structure. I've seen it with 3 ft. of snow on it so it is fairly strong. The "rafters" are galvanized steel and on 6' centers. The side walls are only 4' and the peak is 14'. The roof is curved. I'll include a picture here to give you some kind of idea.

 

So, I've thought about adding some horizontal supports running between the 6' center rafters and then decking and shingling it but I don't know if that's a good idea or not. I'm basically looking for the most economical way to roof this thing without having to redo it every few years.

 

Any suggestions?

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=111635

 

 

 

Im in commercial construction here in Alabama and I’ve seen this done before. You can do it one of two ways. One is to put what they call Hats channel running the length of the building screwed to the persons that are there about every 2ft, it’s light and doesn’t add much weight then you can put metal on top of that and yes it will bend to fit that curve. Will have to do run it different at the very top of the side walls but can make it work.

 

The other way is to run your metal with the ribs running horizontal, start at the bottom and work your way up so that the water runs down from over the other. You will need to use 28 gauge metal to span that 6’ or you can run the Hats channel under it for support.

[Freebird]

Im in commercial construction here in Alabama and I’ve seen this done before. You can do it one of two ways. One is to put what they call Hats channel running the length of the building screwed to the persons that are there about every 2ft, it’s light and doesn’t add much weight then you can put metal on top of that and yes it will bend to fit that curve. Will have to do run it different at the very top of the side walls but can make it work.

 

The other way is to run your metal with the ribs running horizontal, start at the bottom and work your way up so that the water runs down from over the other. You will need to use 28 gauge metal to span that 6’ or you can run the Hats channel under it for support.

@Edbo I like your first suggestion. So you are saying that the steel roofing will flex vertically enough to fit to that radius? If so, this sounds like the best solution. You mention 28 gauge for the horizontal suggestion but what gauge would you recommend for the vertical orientation with the hat's channel on 24" centers? Also, can you explain what you mean by running it differently at the very top of the side walls?

[Edbo]

Edbo I like your first suggestion. So you are saying that the steel roofing will flex vertically enough to fit to that radius? If so, this sounds like the best solution. You mention 28 gauge for the horizontal suggestion but what gauge would you recommend for the vertical orientation with the hat's channel on 24" centers? Also, can you explain what you mean by running it differently at the very top of the side walls?

 

 

If if your going to use hats channel then 30 gauge will work and it is more forgiving as making the radius.

 

 

on the sides I would recommend running metal horizontal from the ground up and over that sharp turn on the sides at the top then put my metal roof on and let it hang over that sort of like a soffit.