Good audio setup on a 1st gen?

[Cory4366]

I haven't had my bike very long, but since I picked it up I've wanted to put a better audio system in. Just checking in to see what everyone's using and looking for a little guidance. I definitely want to replace the amp/speakers/ cassette/radio setup, have people gutted the cassette/radio put a smaller bluetooth receiver/radio in with room for phone storage (or amp storage instead if needed)? I'm gonna go ahead and guess nothing's really plug and play that I could buy and stick in.

Edited February 11, 2018 by Cory4366

[zagger]

Garmin Zumo with tunes loaded in and earbuds.

zag

[s.tyler58]

I haven't had my bike very long, but since I picked it up I've wanted to put a better audio system in. Just checking in to see what everyone's using and looking for a little guidance. I definitely want to replace the amp/speakers/ cassette/radio setup, have people gutted the cassette/radio put a smaller bluetooth receiver/radio in with room for phone storage (or amp storage instead if needed)? I'm gonna go ahead and guess nothing's really plug and play that I could buy and stick in.

Bluetooth from my phone with Tone's headset. It's easy to control the Bluetooth from the tones controls laying on your shoulders. I haven't figured out how to be able to use it to make calls yet because of the noise but for listening pleasure it's hard to beat.

 

in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

[Cory4366]

Bluetooth from my phone with Tone's headset. It's easy to control the Bluetooth from the tones controls laying on your shoulders. I haven't figured out how to be able to use it to make calls yet because of the noise but for listening pleasure it's hard to beat.

 

in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

 

 

Moreso looking to replace the audio system than use earbuds/headphones. I found a nice(kinda expensive) set of 4" kickers that I've been eyeing. Trying to find a vertically oriented receiver but I'm not seeing much online...

[bongobobny]

Replacing the speakers with better coax speakers makes a big difference! There are several good brands out there, like Polk, Kenwood, etc!

 

Yes, many have ditched the cassette deck and used the space for storage, etc. You just have to jumper a couple of wires on the plug that is for the cassette! That would also be a great spot to install a jack to plug in a Bluetooth receiver. Otherwise, you can just buy one of those cassette adapters that plug into the deck like a cassette and has an audio input jack. There is also buy one of those cassette adapters that is, in reality, a Bluetooth receiver!

 

Otherwise, if you go to an aftermarket receiver, make sure it is a Marine grade one...

[camos]

I definitely want to replace the amp/speakers/ cassette/radio setup, have people gutted the cassette/radio put a smaller bluetooth receiver/radio in with room for phone storage (or amp storage instead if needed)? I'm gonna go ahead and guess nothing's really plug and play that I could buy and stick in.

If you wear a helmet the best audio available is a Bluetooth headset like the Sena which has really good sound even at highway speed. An MP3 player or phone can be plugged into the headset. The OEM radio/cassette needs a 5 pin to 1/8 stereo plug and a Bluetooth transmitter to connect to the headset.

 

My current setup has a USB adapter connected to the bike's AUX circuit and a Bluetooth transmitter that plugs into it. More convenient than the previous transmitter I had which was battery operated and needed charging after about 10 hours of usage. If I remember correctly, both parts cost about $20.

 

If you are interested, I can dig up more specific information on these. Got them on Amazon and the 5 pin adapter on eBay.

[Cory4366]

If you wear a helmet the best audio available is a Bluetooth headset like the Sena which has really good sound even at highway speed. An MP3 player or phone can be plugged into the headset. The OEM radio/cassette needs a 5 pin to 1/8 stereo plug and a Bluetooth transmitter to connect to the headset.

 

My current setup has a USB adapter connected to the bike's AUX circuit and a Bluetooth transmitter that plugs into it. More convenient than the previous transmitter I had which was battery operated and needed charging after about 10 hours of usage. If I remember correctly, both parts cost about $20.

 

If you are interested, I can dig up more specific information on these. Got them on Amazon and the 5 pin adapter on eBay.

 

Replacing the speakers with better coax speakers makes a big difference! There are several good brands out there, like Polk, Kenwood, etc!

 

Yes, many have ditched the cassette deck and used the space for storage, etc. You just have to jumper a couple of wires on the plug that is for the cassette! That would also be a great spot to install a jack to plug in a Bluetooth receiver. Otherwise, you can just buy one of those cassette adapters that plug into the deck like a cassette and has an audio input jack. There is also buy one of those cassette adapters that is, in reality, a Bluetooth receiver!

 

Otherwise, if you go to an aftermarket receiver, make sure it is a Marine grade one...

 

 

I'm pretty set against having anything in ear while I ride, I just don't like not being able to hear what else is going on around me.

I'll probably go with a pair of PL42BLs if nobody has speakers to recommend, definitely look like the most waterproof bang for your buck. As for the receiver, has anyone ever stuck a double din touchscreen system in theirs? Measurement wise it looks like it would fit, and I've found some marine grade ones. My only concern would be too much of a power draw. I found a good candidate that has a built in amp, it would take some modifying and storage would be slim, but boy would that be neat....

[videoarizona]

 

My current setup has a USB adapter connected to the bike's AUX circuit and a Bluetooth transmitter that plugs into it. More convenient than the previous transmitter I had which was battery operated and needed charging after about 10 hours of usage. If I remember correctly, both parts cost about $20.

 

If you are interested, I can dig up more specific information on these. Got them on Amazon and the 5 pin adapter on eBay.

 

What aux circuit does your 1st Gen have? Or are you talking about when you replace the tape deck and tie in there?

[camos]

What aux circuit does your 1st Gen have? Or are you talking about when you replace the tape deck and tie in there?

I was referring to the OEM AUX circuit that comes on with the ignition switch. In this case, the USB adapter is powered up with the ignition and the Bluetooth transmitter which is powered by the USB automagically pairs with the headset.

 

As far as having something in your ear while riding, the helmet headset is not in your ear and the volume does not have to be high enough to interfere with hearing traffic around you. The OEM radio has a sensor that controls volume according to the ambient background noise. As many have discovered, it doesn't matter how powerful the amp or sensitive the speakers while riding at highway speeds the dash speakers do not give very good service. They probably work great when the bike is off but is it a good idea to chance a dead battery?

[videoarizona]

I was referring to the OEM AUX circuit that comes on with the ignition switch. In this case, the USB adapter is powered up with the ignition and the Bluetooth transmitter which is powered by the USB automagically pairs with the headset.

 

As far as having something in your ear while riding, the helmet headset is not in your ear and the volume does not have to be high enough to interfere with hearing traffic around you. The OEM radio has a sensor that controls volume according to the ambient background noise. As many have discovered, it doesn't matter how powerful the amp or sensitive the speakers while riding at highway speeds the dash speakers do not give very good service. They probably work great when the bike is off but is it a good idea to chance a dead battery?

 

 

Gotcha.

 

I thought you were talking about an aux input to the stereo.

 

I'm running the Venture adapter that plugs in between the tape deck and the amp. It allows me to plug in an mp3 player or bluetooth. But for now I'm happy/content with the tape deck and the Etymotic earbuds. Keeps the noise down and allows excellent fidelity. I don't ride with a group and the helmet speakers still work so my Admiral and I can still talk between us. All we need.

[snyper316]

I have Pioneer head unit with bluetooth MVH-x360bt in tinker and its plenty loud enuff at hwy speeds, but cranked up all the way with bike turned off it will drain the battery you can watch the voltmeter, when i still had my digital meter on the bike at full volume i was seeing a .1-.3 draw while going down the road at 60mph. Really don't run it at full volume, I just don't know if our bikes could run an amp....

[Cory4366]

I have Pioneer head unit with bluetooth MVH-x360bt in tinker and its plenty loud enuff at hwy speeds, but cranked up all the way with bike turned off it will drain the battery you can watch the voltmeter, when i still had my digital meter on the bike at full volume i was seeing a .1-.3 draw while going down the road at 60mph. Really don't run it at full volume, I just don't know if our bikes could run an amp....

 

Maybe an upgraded stator would do the trick? I've seen a few aftermarket kicking around

[snyper316]

I have too I don't know about aftermarket higher output stator... Imho I would stick to stock. Now if you go all led that drop is just for a second. But I want to run other stuff and leave the system to my big rigs.

 

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[camos]

Maybe an upgraded stator would do the trick? I've seen a few aftermarket kicking around

I put the Rick's Motorsports Hotshot stator in my 90 and 89 Ventures and they both work great putting out 14v at idle. The 90 has a Shindengen mosfet R/R and the 89 has the stock R/R.

[snyper316]

I put the Rick's Motorsports Hotshot stator in my 90 and 89 Ventures and they both work great putting out 14v at idle. The 90 has a Shindengen mosfet R/R and the 89 has the stock R/R.

Question because radios have preamp and he is talking amps and going boom. What can our electrical system handle. I know there are systems in cars that need 2 batteries and altenators. So I'm gonna think there has to be something to look for when we want to hook up more to our bikes.... Like watts? Amps? As in electrical draw?

 

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[camos]

Question because radios have preamp and he is talking amps and going boom. What can our electrical system handle. I know there are systems in cars that need 2 batteries and altenators. So I'm gonna think there has to be something to look for when we want to hook up more to our bikes.... Like watts? Amps? As in electrical draw?

Yes, Watts = amps x volts so the rated watts of the radio and amplifiers will be drawing on top of what the bike would normally require to run the ignition and lights. The electrical system is not meant to handle much more than what comes with the bike. Adding a couple of 55w driving lights is pretty much the limit of the OEM system but adding 20% more with a high output stator does make the system comfortable with those lights.

 

Personally I think, as mentioned earlier, it's better to stay away from high output car audio systems and go for Bluetooth headsets. You get way better sound in your helmet. The price is less than the cost of the audio system and the bikes electrics will handle it better as well.

[mralex714]

I'll keep this short. I don't know had attached you are to staying as close to the OEM setup as possible, but after several tries this is what I ended up with. A Jensen marine unit MS30 had usb input played MP3 from thumb drive and an AUX input newer and better units also include bluetooth), clarion XC-2410 power amp and 5.25 Kicker speakers (someone hear did a how to for this) with foam speaker enclosures behind them. I later added what is sold on ebay as a sub level control which I used as a volume control rather than the buttons on the head unit, I was quite happy with this setup.

[snyper316]

Yes, Watts = amps x volts so the rated watts of the radio and amplifiers will be drawing on top of what the bike would normally require to run the ignition and lights. The electrical system is not meant to handle much more than what comes with the bike. Adding a couple of 55w driving lights is pretty much the limit of the OEM system but adding 20% more with a high output stator does make the system comfortable with those lights.

 

Personally I think, as mentioned earlier, it's better to stay away from high output car audio systems and go for Bluetooth headsets. You get way better sound in your helmet. The price is less than the cost of the audio system and the bikes electrics will handle it better as well.

That is what I was thinking. I run all led on tinker including my extra lights but am unsure of the current draw I have. Now if this guy is willing he could probably run a deep cell battery mounted in his trunk... I don't know other then plugging the battery in at night how to charge it... I know I can jump my tahoe from the bike but it takes about 20 minutes to get enuff juice back in the battery but not something I would do all the time.

 

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[camos]

Now if this guy is willing he could probably run a deep cell battery mounted in his trunk... I don't know other then plugging the battery in at night how to charge it...

To this point, a battery is a storage device as well as a method to flatten the output beyond what the R/R does. Having a second non-charging battery to run an audio system is not a particularly good approach considering the added bulk and weight. Apart from that there is no reason why the OEM charging system could not be used to keep a second battery topped up.

 

The charging system's job is to replace the power used by whatever is running. Second battery or not, there is a limit to how much load can be added to the notoriously low output of the stator before it can't keep up. Think trips longer than one day. Good lighting pretty much uses all the normal output so a heavy duty audio system would probably stress the whole system.

There is no reason why a deep cycle car sized battery could not be added so you can go to the beach and drive everyone away with your bad choice of music.

[s.tyler58]

That is what I was thinking. I run all led on tinker including my extra lights but am unsure of the current draw I have. Now if this guy is willing he could probably run a deep cell battery mounted in his trunk... I don't know other then plugging the battery in at night how to charge it... I know I can jump my tahoe from the bike but it takes about 20 minutes to get enuff juice back in the battery but not something I would do all the time.

 

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That hoe ain't been nothing but trouble for you boy! It's time to let the hoe go.

 

in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

[snyper316]

To this point, a battery is a storage device as well as a method to flatten the output beyond what the R/R does. Having a second non-charging battery to run an audio system is not a particularly good approach considering the added bulk and weight. Apart from that there is no reason why the OEM charging system could not be used to keep a second battery topped up.

 

The charging system's job is to replace the power used by whatever is running. Second battery or not, there is a limit to how much load can be added to the notoriously low output of the stator before it can't keep up. Think trips longer than one day. Good lighting pretty much uses all the normal output so a heavy duty audio system would probably stress the whole system.

There is no reason why a deep cycle car sized battery could not be added so you can go to the beach and drive everyone away with your bad choice of music.

This has become a very interesting thread..... And informative what would you say about using a power wheels battery? Those will run a power wheel for hours. Small enuff I bet it would run me and fools train horn....[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

 

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[snyper316]

That hoe ain't been nothing but trouble for you boy! It's time to let the hoe go.

 

in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

"Who you calling hoe smalls?"

 

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[s.tyler58]

"Who you calling hoe smalls?" https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/5da35371bf7c45e1b845f67f74f6d88d.jpg

 

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The one you have to jump start from this one. The one you got locked out of and the tickets for.

 

in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

[snyper316]

The one you have to jump start from this one. The one you got locked out of and the tickets for.

 

in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.

 

Didnt get a ticket, lucky because i was parked in a bus loading and unloading zone that is from 7 am to 8 am lol.... I only had to jump start because i was jamming out to music changing oil and checking lights and some other stuff... O the fact i had just moved here and didnt know where my 250 feet of extension cord was lol.... Fool was talking about them giving tickets where he lives

[camos]

This has become a very interesting thread..... And informative what would you say about using a power wheels battery? Those will run a power wheel for hours. Small enuff I bet it would run me and fools train horn....[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

 

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This seems to be straying away from audio but, in any case, I can't think of any good reason to install a second battery. The OEM charging system is adequate to operate the stock equipment plus two 55w aux lights. Going more than that would get iffy. The Rick's Hotshot is a better choice when it comes to replacing the stator because it ups the wattage. Keeping the charging system connections clean will maintain the output and likely prevent the stator or the R/R from dying. Putting in a higher output stator should not stress the wiring system any more than the OEM one if the connections are kept clean.