s.tyler58 Posted February 9, 2018 #1 Posted February 9, 2018 (edited) Going to be an awesome weekend! Progress at last! Many many thanks to OrlinEngh! Every part gets me one step closer to see CTFW! in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye. Edited February 9, 2018 by s.tyler58
SpencerPJ Posted February 9, 2018 #2 Posted February 9, 2018 Might as well wipe it off and paint it with hi temp black. It'll make your bike faster Good luck. I'm waiting for the next post that says: While you're in there, you might as well ............
Flyinfool Posted February 9, 2018 #3 Posted February 9, 2018 You can paint all of it except for the fins. putting paint on the fins will reduce the cooling ability. Painting the tanks and brackets will make it purdyer.
s.tyler58 Posted February 9, 2018 Author #4 Posted February 9, 2018 Might as well wipe it off and paint it with hi temp black. It'll make your bike faster Good luck. I'm waiting for the next post that says: While you're in there, you might as well ............ Something tells me the guys are going to want to be around to see the night that we finally meet! in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.
Yammer Dan Posted February 10, 2018 #5 Posted February 10, 2018 A comb on those fins and a good washing and it will look like new!!
s.tyler58 Posted February 12, 2018 Author #6 Posted February 12, 2018 So I was naive enough to think that plugging in the new relays and rewiring my bad connector for the headlamp might resolve my shorting of the 15 amp ignition fuse. Silly me. I'm going to redo the connections that I made using crimp connectors when I replaced my fuse box fuses with soldered connections. I practiced soldering wire ends together so I'm better at it now. Maybe those are causing an issue I know my mechanic kind of poo pooed my repair for using those connectors. So anyway that's where I'll start before I tear into kill switches and other things. That 15 amp fuse controls the tach the digital information center my neutral switch and who knows what else. I'm glad I don't have the class system or cruise control even if my wiring chart does. So there's my little update. Today I get my new clutch slave to replace. You know that was one of the first things that I ever talked about having to get fixed on that bike and the shop didn't do it for some reason. I'm happy to tackle it myself now, but wonder why why it wasn't done when we talked about it 5 times in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.
s.tyler58 Posted February 12, 2018 Author #7 Posted February 12, 2018 So I was naive enough to think that plugging in the new relays and rewiring my bad connector for the headlamp might resolve my shorting of the 15 amp ignition fuse. Silly me. I'm going to redo the connections that I made using crimp connectors when I replaced my fuse box fuses with soldered connections. I practiced soldering wire ends together so I'm better at it now. Maybe those are causing an issue. I know my mechanic kind of poo pooed my repair for using those connectors. So anyway that's where I'll start before I tear into kill switches and other things. That 15 amp fuse controls the tach the digital information center my neutral switch and who knows what else. I'm glad I don't have the class system or cruise control even if my wiring chart does. So there's my little update. Today I get my new clutch slave to replace. You know that was one of the first things that I ever talked about having to get fixed on that bike and the shop didn't do it for some reason. I'm happy to tackle it myself now, but wonder why why it wasn't done when we talked about it 5 times in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye. in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.
bongobobny Posted February 13, 2018 #8 Posted February 13, 2018 The hardest part of replacing the clutch slave is physically getting the old one out and the new one in!! Once unbolted, it takes a combination of twisting, swearing, and throwing things before it finally drops out onto the floor...
s.tyler58 Posted February 17, 2018 Author #9 Posted February 17, 2018 Came in today thinking I would walk away from the electrical issues for a minute and go ahead and replace my clutch slave. Can't get the hex bolts holding the slave in place loose. Broke the ball and off of the wrench and it got lodged in the head of the bolt. Manage to get that loose and figured well let's take a look at why that shifters always sliding around. Could this be part of the issue? This nice Groove where it's supposed to lock down? in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.
Freebird Posted February 17, 2018 #10 Posted February 17, 2018 That groove is supposed to be there. That's where the bolt passed through and keeps it from sliding off if it gets loose.
snyper316 Posted February 18, 2018 #11 Posted February 18, 2018 Sounds like maybe the bolt is a little worn, get a new one put it on and tighten it down if its got a wiggle... you also have that funny shifter don't you? make sure the splines in it aren't worn for some reason.
s.tyler58 Posted February 18, 2018 Author #12 Posted February 18, 2018 Sounds like maybe the bolt is a little worn, get a new one put it on and tighten it down if its got a wiggle... you also have that funny shifter don't you? make sure the splines in it aren't worn for some reason.Splines are Sharp. I haven't tried twisting but I think that shaft is turning farther than it should in a clockwise Direction in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.
s.tyler58 Posted February 22, 2018 Author #13 Posted February 22, 2018 The hardest part of replacing the clutch slave is physically getting the old one out and the new one in!! Once unbolted, it takes a combination of twisting, swearing, and throwing things before it finally drops out onto the floor... Yay Me! I came in all calm, cool and prepared to do battle with getting the slave out/in. I read what you said about it finally drops to the floor and out so I wasn't sure what to expect other than frustrations. Well, I removed the banjo, took out the two hex bolts and let it fall! A slight twist around the wire-holder on the lower left side and it fell right out! Went back in a little tougher but not more than 10 seconds to put back in place! Do I get a prize or something? (I did however find the bottom of the 6 screws holding the cover on was stripped.) Still some teeth, looking up fixes. I tapped (or Died) it out and if feels like it'll tighten down but wonder about adding some copper wire in the hole to help give it grip. Suggestions? S
bongobobny Posted February 22, 2018 #14 Posted February 22, 2018 Helicoil! Are you a whiz at jigsaw puzzles too?? Yup, sometimes they come right out and other times you can spend a long time...
SpencerPJ Posted February 22, 2018 #15 Posted February 22, 2018 Amen, If you have trouble bleeding, a trick I learned on this site was after you bleed to know end, and there's just that air bubble somewhere keeping you from getting that perfect clutch, fill up the reservoir, place lid on top, then squeeze clutch lever all the way, and tie off with rope. Let sit overnight. Any little air bubble will naturally work itself out. At least they have for me, a couple times. And you should know better than gloat that the clutch slave was easier than expected.
s.tyler58 Posted February 22, 2018 Author #16 Posted February 22, 2018 Amen, If you have trouble bleeding, a trick I learned on this site was after you bleed to know end, and there's just that air bubble somewhere keeping you from getting that perfect clutch, fill up the reservoir, place lid on top, then squeeze clutch lever all the way, and tie off with rope. Let sit overnight. Any little air bubble will naturally work itself out. At least they have for me, a couple times. And you should know better than gloat that the clutch slave was easier than expected. I figger the stripped hole was payback for braggin' but to be safe I'm diving under my desk as taught in grade school! in the Eternal scheme of things, this isn't even the blink of an eye.
Flyinfool Posted February 22, 2018 #17 Posted February 22, 2018 The bottom bolt of the middle gear cover is drilled through to the inside. It is also the drain for getting the oil out of the transmission. That bottom bolt is the one that should have a copper washer on it to seal the oil. If that is the bolt that is striped out I would put in a heli coil or some similar tread insert since it needs to be tight so as to not leak oil. I would not waist ime with trying the copper wire or epoxy type fixes. If you go with a heli coil, coat the drill and then the tap with heavy grease, that way the chips will stick to the drill and tap and not fall into the transmission.
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