1St Gen - That pesky tiny oil leak

[videoarizona]

On the left side.....either the shift shaft oil seal, the seal around the stator wires or a gasket is leaking on my 89.

 

Is this all I need for parts?

 

2 gaskets, 1 oil seal and 1 washer for the screw in the intermediate shaft cover...

 

Yamaha

Oil Seal

93102-12321-00

Your Price: $4.60

 

 

++++++++

Yamaha

Gasket, Crankcase Cover 2

3JP-15461-01-00

Your Price: $3.57

 

 

++++++++

Yamaha

Gasket, Crankcase Cover 1

3JP-15451-01-00

Your Price: $10.38

 

 

++++++

Yamaha

Gasket

90430-06014-00

Your Price: $2.44

 

 

+++++

 

I already have RTV goop and such if needed...

 

TIA,

david

Edited January 15, 2018 by videoarizona
add

[Marcarl]

If the leak is at the clutch pushrod you will also need the following. If your going to do that though, you might consider changing the whole slave assembly.

Other than that you should be good.

24

 

Oil Seal

93109-08061-00

 

$4.86

 

 

25

Guide, Push Rod

26H-16399-00-00 26H-Y1639-00-00

 

$16.79

 

 

 

26

O-Ring

93210-18322-00

 

$2.08

[Flyinfool]

I would start by cleaning it up good and then watching to find where the leak really is before I start replacing stuff. I have never been a fan of throwing money parts and time at something and hope that I hit the problem.

 

There are a few writeups on the process for sealing the wire grommet. this is a popular leak point. Just slapping some RTV on the wires will NOT stop the leak.

[videoarizona]

I would start by cleaning it up good and then watching to find where the leak really is before I start replacing stuff. I have never been a fan of throwing money parts and time at something and hope that I hit the problem.

 

There are a few writeups on the process for sealing the wire grommet. this is a popular leak point. Just slapping some RTV on the wires will NOT stop the leak.

 

 

Jeff...you got it.

 

I have already cleaned and then put some miles on her looking for leaks. Without taking off the covers I can't tell... And yes...I did read the write up on cleaning the grommet(for lack of a better word) around the stator wires before RTV'ing the area. Guess I need to be more thorough in my first post....sorry about that!

[videoarizona]

If the leak is at the clutch pushrod you will also need the following. If your going to do that though, you might consider changing the whole slave assembly.

Other than that you should be good.

24

 

Oil Seal

93109-08061-00

 

$4.86

 

 

25

Guide, Push Rod

26H-16399-00-00 26H-Y1639-00-00

 

$16.79

 

 

 

26

O-Ring

93210-18322-00

 

$2.08

 

Thanks, Carl. Yes the clutch slave will be replaced. I think it's original and it is probably gunked up pretty bad by this time. Wouldn't hurt to replace any original parts while I'm in there as well. Thanks for the ideas!

[mraf]

I agree that your oil leak is probably coming from the wires. A very good cleaning of the wires removing all of the old RTV and oil residue is whats needed. Make sure the wires are dry as a bone before re-applying the RTV. I make sure there is ample RTV between the wires as well as covering them on both sides of the grommet holding them through the case. Let the RTV dry a full 24 hours before use and you should be good to go. Every time I tried to rush this job I had a leak so take your time.

[Flyinfool]

Jeff...you got it.

 

I have already cleaned and then put some miles on her looking for leaks. Without taking off the covers I can't tell... And yes...I did read the write up on cleaning the grommet(for lack of a better word) around the stator wires before RTV'ing the area. Guess I need to be more thorough in my first post....sorry about that!

 

You do know that the list of "While you are in there.........." can go on forever till you have a whole new bike.

Just ask KIC how that one goes.......

Edited January 15, 2018 by Flyinfool

[snyper316]

So oil leak on left side is typical of someone replacing stator? I replaced to gaskets behind the shifter and didn't fix mine.... Then was told and it looked to be leaking from oil pan.... @Flyinfool you sure is awnery [emoji23][emoji23] o by the way woke up to another 3 inches of your white powder and forecast of 4° F tonight.

 

Sent from my LG-K371 using Tapatalk

[van avery]

Might also look at the O-ring on the shift indicator ( white triangular piece,with wires going to it). Sometimes they also crack.

Another question is how much oil are you running? 1/2 way up on the oil indicator window, is sufficient.

Good luck

[videoarizona]

Might also look at the O-ring on the shift indicator ( white triangular piece,with wires going to it). Sometimes they also crack.

Another question is how much oil are you running? 1/2 way up on the oil indicator window, is sufficient.

Good luck

 

 

Yea...good thought. I had the same problem on my VStar 650. Forgot about that one! Simple O ring and easy to get to...

I'll add that to the list!

 

Oil level halfway up the glass. Learned that lesson 4 years ago just after I got the scoot and read the posts here.

 

Thanks.

[videoarizona]

I was also thinking of taking a good look at the stator while I was in there. Mine might be original. If I can swing the $$, it would be a good idea to replace with new. Then I have a known spare and I should be good to go for some time. At least for the rest of my riding time...another 4 to 5 years maybe.

 

Have a friend who has a 1st Gen trike here in Green Valley and we've been talking about doing both scoots together. He's not on the forum but does his own work for the most part.

[bikenut]

I would add some dye from a auto store with the ultra violet light and you will see it right where it is coming from.

I had a leak I could not fined on my 68 Chevelle for a long time and added dye and checked with the light and found it within 5 mins.

It was the oil sending unit pipe had a crack in it right at the block

Good luck

[ricksbike]

I fought A similar tiny il leak all last summer,changed all the gaskets on the left side of the motor installed new shift shaft seal,still had goofy little leak,then decided it had to be coming from higher up,replaced cam cover gasket on the front head,with the bolt seals,wow no more leak,it turns out that it was leaking from the cam cover gasket,running along the head,then down around the alternator cover,along the alternator wires and dripping off the kickstand switch.

[gaj1917]

I would add some dye from a auto store with the ultra violet light and you will see it right where it is coming from.

I had a leak I could not fined on my 68 Chevelle for a long time and added dye and checked with the light and found it within 5 mins.

It was the oil sending unit pipe had a crack in it right at the block

Good luck

Dye works wonderfully. I've used Tracerline TP34000601 dye on a couple of ocassions.

[KIC]

 

You do know that the list of "While you are in there.........." can go on forever till you have a whole new bike.

Just ask KIC how that one goes.......

 

IT GOES AND GOES AND GOES...

 

Mine started to leak so bad it made a Harley look like it was potty trained. I think my main mess of a leak was the Air filter box inlets. The round tops inside the box. They seamed to be leaking down to the left side. I sold it before I could attack it. I am sure I will be dealing with that issue on my daughter's 86. So practice up David .. I need an expert..

 

By the way: 7 days and counting until I fly to Oklahoma to pick up my Stratoliner....

[Condor]

I don't think anyone has mentioned it yet, but another area that will leak is the 'o' ring seal behind the gear indicator... The indicator doesn't just screw onto the block, but actually fits in about a 1" hole in the block with an 'o' ring for a seal.

[videoarizona]

I don't think anyone has mentioned it yet, but another area that will leak is the 'o' ring seal behind the gear indicator... The indicator doesn't just screw onto the block, but actually fits in about a 1" hole in the block with an 'o' ring for a seal.

 

That one I am familiar with! Had the same problem with the VStar 650. Simple fix.

 

After I get the new tires on the RSV this weekend, think I'll buckle down and order the gaskets and go to work. It's time for an oil change anyway on the 89!

[Marcarl]

I don't think anyone has mentioned it yet, but another area that will leak is the 'o' ring seal behind the gear indicator... The indicator doesn't just screw onto the block, but actually fits in about a 1" hole in the block with an 'o' ring for a seal.

Ya and if I remember rightly, the screw that holds it in place has a tendency to over tighten and so create a leaking web.

[videoarizona]

Finally got around to ordering the gaskets, o rings, seals and the new clutch slave. Under $150 for all.

Boats.net for the stuff.

So the 1st gen will be getting a rebuild on it's left side. Should be good from oil leaks for the next 30 years!

Now to go out and clean up the area real good.

[Yammer Dan]

30 yrs??? I'll be gitting old by then.

[videoarizona]

Bike is apart. Oil is drained waiting for gaskets, etc.

Saw these stains on left side of case covers. No indication of what it is and where it is coming from. Wasn't there last year..

 

[Marcarl]

Bike is apart. Oil is drained waiting for gaskets, etc.

Saw these stains on left side of case covers. No indication of what it is and where it is coming from. Wasn't there last year..

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=111643

Leaky clutch master.

[videoarizona]

But how would it get there and not stain the plastic? And no indication from heads, cylinders, cooling system, etc..

 

puzzling....

 

And whats worse...the Admiral couldn't figure out how to clean it off!!

 

I'll attack it again in a week and a half when I get back home...is interesting though!

Edited February 17, 2018 by videoarizona
add

[Marcarl]

Unless it's dirt and will wash off,,,,,, what I suppose that I'm looking at is the clearcoat bubbled, so a quick guess was that the handle bars were turned and the master took a leak.

[videoarizona]

UPDATE:

 

Finally got back into town and started work on the 89.

 

Drained the oil, replaced the oil filter and O rings. (thanks Puc for guidance on the cover.)

So now time to take the left side apart. The idea here is to look for a leak(s)...minor but annoying. Took all the stuff off to get to everything like plastic, etc..

So here we go....OH...I went through all my notes of the past 4 years here on the forum, collating all the stuff relating to this job so I could have it all handy when needed. Like torque values.

 

Nothing much to taking cover 2 off.

 

 

Looked relatively clean around the clutch slave.

 

 

Shift shaft looked decent as well...

 

 

But as you can see...there is oil around the wires and the area under the neutral switch.

 

The clutch slave was fun to get out. But no where near as hard as I thought. It simply drops down and rotates out the hole where the wires are. You really have to move the wires up and out of the way. I also bent the wire holder near the stator wires and moved the clutch line completely out of the area after draining the clutch system. That was hard to do emotionally after all the work bleeding to get a good clutch! So once those things are moved you can drop the slave down, rotate the bleeder neck towards you and the thing fell out! Going back in was also easy....slip the slave in sideways, rotate up... then lift into position. I did have some fun trying to get the slave over the clutch shaft and then holding it down so I could get the bolts in. Put some paper towel into the hex driver then pushed that into the screw. Wanted to hold that screw on the driver as I pushed it in and got it started. Worked!

 

Here are pics of the old slave. Not bad for 29 years!

 

 

Next, took off the neutral switch/gear indicator switch from trannie case. It came out fine as well. But highly recommend you use a magnetic screw driver for the 3 screws. I managed to get one finger in to hold the screws on the driver as I backed them out. Replaced O ring, cleaned the contacts and snugged the wires on the front side to make sure they were making good contact as well....

 

After cleaning contacts....

 

 

Pretty clean area before I managed to get a rag in there. So don't think the clutch pushrod seal is leaking.

 

 

and the neutral switch area as well...though underneath does look wet so this could have been my leak.

BTW, I'm really glad I took this next picture as I forgot the orientation of the neutral connector with respect to the switch....I was able to look at the camera picture and see the pin is at the 8 O'Clock position....and on the front side, the raised connection is neutral. Turn the switch until it matches the pin...align holes and put the screws in!

 

Took one more picture to get a feel for the empty space, then cleaned it....pic is before cleaning with finger pointing to area of slave and neutral switch.

 

 

Here is the new slave back in it's hole...

 

 

BTW, only mistakes I made here were I put the neutral switch in before the slave. The cables from the switch got in the way of moving the slave up into position. And then I made the mistake of reading the 2nd gen manual and it said to put some sealant on the top bolt for the slave. So off came the top bolt, RTV to the rescue then torqued the 2 bolts and that was that...I didn't confirm if the 1st gen manual said that as it's on computer and my hands were not clean enough! Can't hurt though.

 

Here is the neutral switch in place....the raised wire terminal for neutral is in the 8 O'Clock position.

 

 

Here is a close up of the wires coming off the stator. They don't look like they were leaking...but I'll leave that up to the brain trust here.....do they look normal or really wet? Don't feel wet to me....

 

 

 

And that's where I stopped for the night. New clutch slave in. New O ring on neutral switch and area cleaned up.

 

I could stop here and put her back together tomorrow, bleed the clutch and go for a ride to make sure everything works. I already have the gasket for the stator cover but would need to order another gasket for cover 2. I think I'll wait to see what you all say about the wires. It won't be much of a problem to drop the engine guard and take off the stator cover. I'm leaning that way now....

 

Of course...that just means it's more of a chance for me to break something else!!

 

BTW, it snowed today in the mountains across the valley. We got a few flakes here but it didn't stick. Too warm at 52 degrees. Another cold front came through Arizona. Picture from my driveway....

 

 

 

So far working on the left side has been easier than I expected. I just hope that I can get her back together when I'm done!

 

d

Edited March 1, 2018 by videoarizona
spelling...what else...?