B.E. Coyote Posted January 15, 2018 #1 Posted January 15, 2018 (edited) Bought this a few weeks ago. It wasn't running, had 90k on it but was in overall good shape. To get it running it just needed a new rectifier. It ran okay but the handling was downright awful. Front tire was worn oddly but still had tread. Back tire was passable. Over the past 3 weeks I really dug into it. Started up front. New sonic springs, bushings and seals. Of course new fluid. The old fluid was pretty nasty. Quite possibly it was original. I also opened up the steering head. Greased the bearings and torqued it correctly. Spooned on a new Metzler while the wheel was off. Some electrical work up front inside the fairing to remove the cassette player and add BT, rewire the passing lights etc. Brakes were very poor. Up front I added 4 piston calipers and a 14mm master cylinder. Rebuild the rear caliper and flushed all the old fluid. Valve check, needed 6 valves adjusted. They were just slightly tight and there was evidence that the valves had been done before such as rtv on the valve covers. Cleaned the carbs, they were pretty nasty. New fuel filter too. New plugs, found that the old plugs looked okay but were cooler than what the manual called for. Wondered if it had anything to do with the Harley mufflers on it. Went to what the manual called for. In the back I lubed the drive shaft and all of shock linkage. The shock had been replaced as it was marked from a salvage yard as having 21,000 miles on it. No idea on how many miles it has now but it showed no signs of leaking and it holds air. I'll call it good for now. I had planned to lube the swing arm but it seemed that the other bearings had been serviced and the swing arm moved nicely with no play so I left it alone. Removing the rear wheel was a PITA so I went ahead changed the rear tire while it was off. One issue the bike did have was a sticky throttle. Turns out it was all from the union box. The cables were free and even better after lubing. I spent lots of time monkying with that. I was pretty frustrated. I ended up just loosening the screws a bit that hold it together. It all worked great. I'll have to revisit that. Took it out for a good spin. The thing handles fantastic for such a big girl and it runs sooooo much better! Love rehabing older bikes that will get a new life. I doubt this will have any problem adding another 90,000 miles. Edit: also made suspension raising links and did a carb sync Edited January 15, 2018 by B.E. Coyote
mraf Posted January 15, 2018 #2 Posted January 15, 2018 You have been very busy and now have a machine for miles of smiles. Nice ride and good job. Now if you can fix the weather, have at it, :sign09::sign09:.
bongobobny Posted January 15, 2018 #3 Posted January 15, 2018 Great to hear about your progress!! When you installed a new front tire, did you go with a smaller (130) size? It does improve the low-speed handling as does sliding the front forks about 1/2" past the top which lowers the front... As far as plugs go, they seem to run best with the NGK plugs. If you spend the extra for the Iridium ones they will last longer. Also, you need to check the plug caps as well. Inside there is a disc, a spring, and a resistor element. With age, they get corrosion on them and it affects your spark!
videoarizona Posted January 15, 2018 #4 Posted January 15, 2018 Also, you need to check the plug caps as well. Inside there is a disc, a spring, and a resistor element. With age, they get corrosion on them and it affects your spark! Bob, somewhere I read that the coils on the 2nd gens are directly connected to the plug wires...IE...one piece. I've been kind of sweating that as the wires do age and I didn't want to replace the whole coil/wire/plug cap just for a bad wire or cap! Truth or fiction?
B.E. Coyote Posted January 15, 2018 Author #5 Posted January 15, 2018 Great to hear about your progress!! When you installed a new front tire, did you go with a smaller (130) size? It does improve the low-speed handling as does sliding the front forks about 1/2" past the top which lowers the front... As far as plugs go, they seem to run best with the NGK plugs. If you spend the extra for the Iridium ones they will last longer. Also, you need to check the plug caps as well. Inside there is a disc, a spring, and a resistor element. With age, they get corrosion on them and it affects your spark! Went with the stock front tire size but I forgot to list above that I also made the raising links for the rear suspension. Read mixed reviews on the narrower tire with the links. For plugs I did go with NGK. Used NGK DPR8EA-9 as called for. The ones I took out were NGK DPR7EA-9 which is one level cooler. Read that in general cooler plugs might be used to cure popping. Thought maybe the PO did these plugs in conjuction with the Road King mufflers but after also synching the carbs I am not seeing any signs of popping with the correct plugs.
grubsie Posted January 15, 2018 #6 Posted January 15, 2018 Wow! And I thought I was busy on my '08. Pulled the carbs and cleaned them...waiting on new air filters, installed new Iridium Plugs, rear lowering kit and the front end is torn apart and waiting for new sonic springs to arrive. You have been a very busy beaver and have done an incredible amount of work in a relatively short amount of time. Great job on that old gal. Hope she rewards you with many fun miles.
bongobobny Posted January 15, 2018 #7 Posted January 15, 2018 Dave, yes, the coil wires and coils are 1 piece! Actually, if it becomes an issue, I would suggest converting to Coil Over Plugs! I'm pretty sure you can just replace the caps on 2nd gen... Coyote, the usual culprit of backfire on decel is something wrong with the air injection system...
BlueSky Posted January 15, 2018 #8 Posted January 15, 2018 For plugs I did go with NGK. Used NGK DPR8EA-9 as called for. The ones I took out were NGK DPR7EA-9 which is one level cooler. Read that in general cooler plugs might be used to cure popping. Thought maybe the PO did these plugs in conjuction with the Road King mufflers but after also synching the carbs I am not seeing any signs of popping with the correct plugs. NGK DPR7EA-9 is one range hotter actually. https://www.sparkplugs.com/Data/uploads/Charts/NGK_Plug_Chart_1.jpg
B.E. Coyote Posted January 15, 2018 Author #9 Posted January 15, 2018 NGK DPR7EA-9 is one range hotter actually. https://www.sparkplugs.com/Data/uploads/Charts/NGK_Plug_Chart_1.jpg Ah yes, you are correct. Is running a hotter plug a common thing to do on an RSV?
BlueSky Posted January 15, 2018 #10 Posted January 15, 2018 Ah yes, you are correct. Is running a hotter plug a common thing to do on an RSV? I don't know but my 85 ZN700 Kawasaki that only had 1k miles on it when I bought it in 2009 had the original plugs in it that were 7s. I think the manual suggests the 7 range for lots of short trips and the 8 for lots of highway riding on my Kawa.
cowpuc Posted January 15, 2018 #11 Posted January 15, 2018 Went with the stock front tire size but I forgot to list above that I also made the raising links for the rear suspension. Read mixed reviews on the narrower tire with the links. For plugs I did go with NGK. Used NGK DPR8EA-9 as called for. The ones I took out were NGK DPR7EA-9 which is one level cooler. Read that in general cooler plugs might be used to cure popping. Thought maybe the PO did these plugs in conjuction with the Road King mufflers but after also synching the carbs I am not seeing any signs of popping with the correct plugs. Dave, yes, the coil wires and coils are 1 piece! Actually, if it becomes an issue, I would suggest converting to Coil Over Plugs! I'm pretty sure you can just replace the caps on 2nd gen... Coyote, the usual culprit of backfire on decel is something wrong with the air injection system... Got er looking GREAT there Wiley!!!! I never really found much help with backfiring/popping exhaust assistance by changing plug heat either.. Usually in my case that popping signifies a hole in the exhaust somewhere.. It always amazed me how one tiny little pin hole in a pipe or small header gasket leak could make such obscure sounds in the exhaust when ya let off on the throttle..
B.E. Coyote Posted January 15, 2018 Author #12 Posted January 15, 2018 Before all the maintenance it seemed to pop a good bit while warming up with the chock on. Maybe a little while riding. If it pops at all anymore it is just a bit at idle with the choke.
grubsie Posted January 16, 2018 #13 Posted January 16, 2018 (edited) When you installed a new front tire, did you go with a smaller (130) size? It does improve the low-speed handling as does sliding the front forks about 1/2" past the top which lowers the front... My front tire will probably need to be replaced sometime this summer and I have been thinking about going to this tire vs stock size. Is my understanding correct that the 130 being a rear tire and should rotate reverse of the arrow indicator when installed on the front? I have never put a rear tire in the front of large bike but on the small old Hondas that I restore, the tires are usually the same tire used front and rear and this is the practice used. They have 2 arrows on each tire marked front and rear depending where you are putting them. Also for anyone doing this, here's a note of caution I stumbled upon on another forum. I also read on another thread on this site that someone was using this tire. It could apply to other tires also. ** Caution! The 130/90-16 Shinko Front 675lb load capacity is 86 lbs less than the OE tire specs. It is NOT recommended to use tires with a lower load capacity than the OE tires! Edited January 16, 2018 by grubsie
Du-Rron Posted January 16, 2018 #14 Posted January 16, 2018 ** Caution! The 130/90-16 Shinko Front 675lb load capacity is 86 lbs less than the OE tire specs. It is NOT recommended to use tires with a lower load capacity than the OE tires! The Shinko 777 series 130/90-16 is rated for over 800lbs. Go to Shinko's website to see. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?107652-Shinko-777-Tires
Freebird Posted January 16, 2018 #15 Posted January 16, 2018 The 130's that I've seen people here use has been a front tire. Not sure where you saw that it was a rear.
grubsie Posted January 16, 2018 #16 Posted January 16, 2018 The Shinko 777 series 130/90-16 is rated for over 800lbs. Go to Shinko's website to see. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?107652-Shinko-777-Tires Found it here, but looking again, it was for the 230 series. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002014&id=374 [TABLE] [TR] [TD] Brand [/TD] [TD] Name [/TD] [TD] Size & Position [/TD] [TD]SW[/TD] [TD]Load / Speed Index[/TD] [TD]Overall Diameter[/TD] [TD]Overall Width[/TD] [TD]Tread Depth[/TD] [TD]Max Load @ PSI[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Avon [/TD] [TD]Venom AM41 Venom AM42[/TD] [TD]150/80 -16 F 150/90B15 R[/TD] [TD]BK BK[/TD] [TD]71H 80H[/TD] [TD]25.10" 25.40"[/TD] [TD]6.20" 6.30"[/TD] [TD] 8/32" 11/32"[/TD] [TD]761 @ 42 992 @ 50[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Avon [/TD] [TD]Venom AM41 Venom AM42[/TD] [TD]*MT90B16 F 150/90B15 R[/TD] [TD]WWW WWW[/TD] [TD] 74H 80H[/TD] [TD]25.10" 25.40"[/TD] [TD]5.40" 6.30"[/TD] [TD]11/32"[/TD] [TD]827 @ 42 992 @ 50[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Avon [/TD] [TD]Venom AM41 Venom AM41[/TD] [TD]*MT90B16 F *MT90B16 F[/TD] [TD]NWW BW[/TD] [TD]74H 74H[/TD] [TD]25.10" 25.10"[/TD] [TD]5.40" 5.40"[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD]827 @ 42 827 @ 42[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Bridgestone ( OE ) [/TD] [TD]Exedra G705 Exedra G702[/TD] [TD]150/80 -16 F 150/90 -15 R[/TD] [TD]BW BW[/TD] [TD]71H 74H[/TD] [TD]25.30" 25.80"[/TD] [TD]6.20" 5.90"[/TD] [TD]9/32" 9/32"[/TD] [TD]761 @ 41 827 @ 43[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Bridgestone[/TD] [TD]Exedra G705 Exedra G702[/TD] [TD]150/80 -16 F 150/90 -15 R[/TD] [TD]WW WW[/TD] [TD]71H 74H[/TD] [TD]25.30" 25.80"[/TD] [TD]6.10" 5.80"[/TD] [TD]8/32" 9/32"[/TD] [TD]761 @ 41 827 @ 43[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Continental[/TD] [TD] Milestone CM2** Milestone CM2 [/TD] [TD] 150/80 -16 F 150/90 -15 R[/TD] [TD]BW BW[/TD] [TD]71H 74H[/TD] [TD]25.43" 25.63"[/TD] [TD]5.90" 5.90"[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD]761 @ 42 992 @ 49[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Dunlop ( OE ) [/TD] [TD] D404 [/TD] [TD]150/80 -16 F 150/90 -15 R[/TD] [TD]BW BW[/TD] [TD]71H 74H[/TD] [TD]25.43" 25.60"[/TD] [TD]6.02" 6.02"[/TD] [TD]6/32" 9/32"[/TD] [TD]761 @ 41 827 @ 41[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Dunlop [/TD] [TD] D404 [/TD] [TD]150/80 -16 F 150/90 -15 R[/TD] [TD]WWW WWW[/TD] [TD]71H 74H[/TD] [TD]25.43" 25.60"[/TD] [TD]6.08" 6.05"[/TD] [TD]6/32" 9/32"[/TD] [TD]761 @ 41 827 @ 41[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Dunlop [/TD] [TD] 491 Elite II [/TD] [TD]150/80-16 F MV85B15 R *MT90B16 F[/TD] [TD]BW RWL RWL[/TD] [TD]71H 77H 71H[/TD] [TD]26.98" 25.50" 25.00"[/TD] [TD]5.90" 6.02" 5.10"[/TD] [TD]6/32" 11/32" 6/32"[/TD] [TD]770 @ 40 910 @ 40 770 @ 40[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Dunlop [/TD] [TD] Elite 3 [/TD] [TD]150/80-16 F *MT90B16 F MV85B15 R[/TD] [TD]BW BW BW[/TD] [TD]71H 72H 77H[/TD] [TD]25.54" 25.00" 25.50"[/TD] [TD]5.97" 5.24" 6.02"[/TD] [TD]6/32" 6/32" 11/32"[/TD] [TD]761 @ 41 770 @ 40 910 @ 40[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Maxxis [/TD] [TD] Touring M6011 [/TD] [TD]*MT90-16 F MV85-15 R[/TD] [TD]BW BW[/TD] [TD]71H 77H[/TD] [TD]25.0" 25.5"[/TD] [TD]5.2" 6.1"[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD]761 @ 40 910 @ 40[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Maxxis [/TD] [TD] Classic M6011 [/TD] [TD]150/80-16 F 150/90-15 R *MT90-16 F[/TD] [TD]WW WW WW[/TD] [TD]71H 74H 74H[/TD] [TD]25.5" 26.1" 25.0"[/TD] [TD]5.9" 6.0" 5.0"[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD]761 @ 40 827 @ 40 827 @ 36[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Metzeler [/TD] [TD] ME 880 Marathon [/TD] [TD]150/80-16 F 150/90B15 R 150/80B16 F[/TD] [TD]BW BW WWW[/TD] [TD]71H 80H 71H[/TD] [TD]26.50" 26.06" 26.50"[/TD] [TD]6.34" 6.22" 6.34"[/TD] [TD]9/32" 9/32" 9/32"[/TD] [TD]761 @ 42 992 @ 49 761 @ 42[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Michelin [/TD] [TD]Commander II[/TD] [TD]*130/90-16 F 150/90-15 R[/TD] [TD]BW BW[/TD] [TD]71H 74H[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD]5/32" 9/32"[/TD] [TD]761 @ 42 827 @ 41[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Pirelli [/TD] [TD] MT66 Route [/TD] [TD]150/80-16 F 150/90-15 R[/TD] [TD]BW BW[/TD] [TD]71H 74H[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD]761 @ 36 827 @ 41[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Shinko [/TD] [TD] 230 Tour Master [/TD] [TD]150/80-16 F 150/90-15 R **130/90-16 F[/TD] [TD]BW BW BW[/TD] [TD]71H 80V **[/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD]761 @ 42 992 @ 42 675** @ 42[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] SW = Sidewall, BW = Black Wall, WW = White Wall, WWW = Wide White Wall, NWW = Narrow White Wall, RWL = Raised White Letters * Non-OE Tire Size ** Caution! The 130/90-16 Shinko Front 675lb load capacity is 86 lbs less than the OE tire specs. It is NOT recommended to use tires with a lower load capacity than the OE tires! ** Continental website and technical manual claims this CM2 rear tire can be fitted to the front on the RSV. Verify with tire dealer. The 150/80-16 is not made in the CM1 Front version. The 130's that I've seen people here use has been a front tire. Not sure where you saw that it was a rear. I was looking at Avon Cobra's here. The AV 72's in the MT90-16 size. So a dummy like me could make the mistake. https://www.bikebandit.com/tires-tubes/motorcycle-tires/avon-av72-cobra-motorcycle-tire/p/14975?rrec=true Should have looked here at the AV71's for the front https://www.bikebandit.com/tires-tubes/motorcycle-tires/avon-av71-cobra-motorcycle-tire/p/22626?rrec=true I kept thinking that the Cobras I have on the bike now were AV72's front and back, but upon further inspection I have AV72 rear and AV71 front in the stock sizes.
baylensman Posted January 16, 2018 #18 Posted January 16, 2018 Shinko 777 front tire specs load rating Kilos Pounds [TABLE=class: table table-striped table-hover table-condensed, width: 1140] [TR=bgcolor: #F5F5F5] [TD]73[/TD] [TD]365[/TD] [TD]805[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [TABLE=class: table table-striped table-hover, width: 1140] [TR] [TH]Part #[/TH] [TH]Size[/TH] [TH]Special Description[/TH] [TH]Speed Rating[/TH] [TH]Load Index[/TH] [TH]Max psi[/TH] [TH]Tube Type[/TH] [TH]List Price[/TH] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F9F9F9] [TD] 87-4585[/TD] [TD]130/90-16[/TD] [TD]Heavy Duty[/TD] [TD]H[/TD] [TD]73[/TD] [TD]42 psi[/TD] [TD]Tubeless[/TD] [TD]$114.95[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 87-4586[/TD] [TD]130/90-16[/TD] [TD]White Wall[/TD] [TD]H[/TD] [TD]73[/TD] [TD]42 psi[/TD] [TD]Tubeless[/TD] [TD]$124.95[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]
videoarizona Posted January 16, 2018 #19 Posted January 16, 2018 @grubsie, I'm running the Shinko 230 series on my 89 1st gen front and rear. Stock sizes. Looks almost new in front and about halfway down in rear after 3 years. Good tires. I'll go with the 777's on the RSV soon...130 up front and stock in rear. Just need to find the time to get it done while I'm in Phoenix....
B.E. Coyote Posted January 20, 2018 Author #20 Posted January 20, 2018 Very solid bike but I think I am going to keep my BMW and let this go. My BMW is a big dual sport GS and I have a camp with a challenging steep, rutted, gravel driveway. Also, my riding buddies are also on big dual sports. Really impressed with the RSV though. I will be back. If anybody knows anyone looking to get into a solid RSV for not a lot of money, check the classifieds here.
B.E. Coyote Posted January 21, 2018 Author #22 Posted January 21, 2018 We will see. I sit here going back and forth. On pavement the RSV wins hands down and the electronic cruise would be pretty awesome with the hand problems I have. The Beemer is probably worth double the RSV and the RSV would probably last twice as long as the Beemer. One thing is though, the Beemer I have is kind of hard to find as it was only made one year before BMW over complicated it with servo controlled brakes. If I sell the BMW I may never find another. If I sell the RSV, they are much easier to replace. Wife has medical bills, daughter starting college and all the other problems that we all face. Both my bikes are old but I still can't justify two. Decisions Decisions....
BlueSky Posted January 21, 2018 #23 Posted January 21, 2018 There are a least two videos on the internet showing how to eliminate the BMW servo controlled brakes.
B.E. Coyote Posted January 22, 2018 Author #24 Posted January 22, 2018 Yes, I've done it to a few 1150's for other people but then you lose abs and the value of the bike goes to nothing. It is also probably illegal or at least a possible insurance problem to remove built in safety features. Also a working unit that has an issue goes into a "limp" mode which is like trying to stop a car with power brakes and having the ignition off. Caused me quite a pucker moment once an 06 1200GS. I'll never own another BMW that has servo brakes. Replacing the unit with something from the dealer is over 2k and quite a bit for labor if you can't do it yourself. I did have a Tenere for a while. Great bike. My 11 year old son and I took it two up from Virginia to Alaska.
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