84 Venture Royale CLASS problems

[old]

Hello

New member and just purchased a lower milage 84 Venture Royale. The Class system controller comes on in the Acc. position but shows no fault code but all the forward/Rear and auto manual captions light up and it reads 8 KG pressure but none of the selector buttons seem to function. the unit is getting power but it seems like the panel just doesn't function. Is it repairable? What is a replacement worth and is it available? Pretty amped about the new bike and this great forum. Any help would be appreciated.

[Freebird]

What position is the key in? I think it only works in the accessory position.

[old]

What position is the key in? I think it only works in the accessory position.

It is in the accessory position and like I said it displays everything but the buttons don't seem to do anything

[rbig1]

you have to hold the buttons down for a while. Takes them a little time to wake up. Can you see air pressure reading. There are some connectors that may need reheated because of crack in weld. Take cover loose and play with wires on plug see if it makes contact. In the tec write up it should show it. WELCOME you may as sign up there is a lot of write ups and personal help here. I haven't had a first gen in a few years.

[Grez007]

Like rbig1 said or you just need to push the buttons harder. Mine does work but some times(alot of the time ) I need to push the buttons harder and sometimes several times before it does what I want it to do, she' a pretty old girl and my 83' isn't what I would call "low milage" but like was said, make sure the wires going into the harness in the back of the controller all seem tight and a resolder like others mentioned wouldn't be a bad move either. It's easy to do if you have a small soldering iron. Here is a link from the first gen tech section

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?493-CLASS-E4-Error-Repair

[Condor]

The baud rate on those CLASS system chips is about 1, and slower than the second coming. I wouldn't push harder, but longer. There's also two plugs at the back of the controller. One for power and the other a larger gang plug. You seem to have power so I'd R&R the gang a few times. I can't remember if you can get to the contacts on the plug, but if you can an eraser will get rid of the 'patina' on the surfaces and give a better transfer....

[old]

weii

I spent some time yesterday taking apart the CLASS boards and resoldering but no change. I see replacement panels for sale on EBAY for anything from 180 to 400 bucks. Wow and maybe they will have the same issue. I may need to bypass the works. A bit of a shame as the panel and system are pretty cool. Anybody have a known functioning cheap replacement panel?

[Karaboo]

Before you replace the control unit, you may want to check the rest of the wiring to the solenoids. See if there is 12V to the pump, too.Try jumping 12 volts to them, to see if they still function. If there has never been any maintenance done on the desiccant or inlet filter, they may be stuck.

[old]

So

 

I dried out the desiccant, tested the pump and relays then took the circuit board to an electronic place and they confirmed that the two bad connections that I resoldered were good but they found 9 more bad connections and resoldered them.. Back in the bike and everything is perfect. Could not be happier and by the way both ends were empty. Thanks so much to all that answered this thread. Can hardly wait for spring now.

[old]

ok. So next thing is the red warning light. I know it is on because of the new battery that doesn't have the gismo to monitor voltage. Is there an aftermarket gismo that can be hooked up to emulate the old system? I don't really want to disconnect the light as presumably it can come on as a result of other faults and I would like to have that active. Any comments or tips in this regard would be helpful.

[RDawson]

Look in the 1st gen read only tech section. You can install a resistor and shut the light off. One of the first things I did to my 86.

[bongobobny]

Specifically, it is a resistor in series with the probe lead going to the accessory connection on the fuse block. The value of the resistor should be somewhere between 2,000 and 4,000 ohms. Do NOT connect the battery directly to 12 volts, you can burn out part of the CMU that way...

[old]

So I installed a 2500 ohm resistor and solved the red light battery problem. Went back to play with the Class system that I'm so happy to have fixed with help from this site. Now getting the dreaded E4 code. It is brutally cold here now and obviously another bad solder joint but at least I know where to look now.

[Marcarl]

For the E4 code I would spend a bit of time at the back. Take the compressor unit out and apart and totally clean it. That should happen once in a while anyways. Could be you have a stuck solenoid or a poor connection on the wiring harness. Check to make sure that the exhaust port is clean as well, that's a short rubber hose coming from the valve bank.

[videoarizona]

After you've cleaned up the rear of the CLASS system (good idea BTW), if you still have E4 code error...go to the front and take the CLASS computer off the bike. The white multipin connector puts lots of stress on the circuit board pins. Take the computer apart, resolder the pins for the connector. That usually takes care of the E4.

 

It's an easy job..

 

Articles and pics on site here.....