Guest DREBBIN Posted January 31, 2007 #1 Posted January 31, 2007 After I got the 07 RSV home yesterday from the dealer checking my dead batt, I immediately hooked up the new Battery Tender -- it went SOLID RED right away which of course means it is hooked up OK and has at least 3 volts. It took 5.5 hours to get to GREEN FLASHING = at least 80% charge. Then at 7 hrs it was SOLID GREEN. Whaddya think? Ok battery?
stardbog Posted January 31, 2007 #2 Posted January 31, 2007 thats sounds just right for empty battery to be recharged Up to 24Hours. One more suggestion, disconect charger for couple hours, and then reconnect batery tender. Make sure your battery tender is designed to be hooked up at all time, Othervice you can overcharge and smoke battery.
stardbog Posted January 31, 2007 #5 Posted January 31, 2007 What happened at the dealer? Kill a dealer, save a bike. :rotf:
Al Bates Posted January 31, 2007 #6 Posted January 31, 2007 Make sure the battery is good. Make sure that the battery is new and the dealer did not pull a fast one. I have heard story's that they know your bike is under warranty and will put a bad battery knowing you will get a new one. Fully charge the battery and do a load test on the battery. Read up on load testing. There are different ways to do this. Most will do it with a load tester. I use the car or bike that the battery belongs to. After making sure that the battery is fully charge put a volt meter across the battery. Disable the engine so it can not start. Crank the engine for 15 seconds the voltage should not drop below 9.5 volts. Higher the voltage the better shape the battery is in. Do not over heat the starter. Also make sure there is no drain on the battery when the key is off. Battery drain test. There are many ways to do this also. Have a fully charged battery. Turn everything off. Remove one of the battery terminals. I use the positive (red) side. Use a 12 volt test light (test your light first) hook one of the test light to the battery terminal and the other end of the test light to the battery. With everything turned off the light should be off. Now to test this turn on something like the key, the more you turn on the brighter the test light gets. Turn everything back off, the test light should go out. If the test light does not go out there is something on or you have a drain on the battery. That's my:2cents:
Guest DREBBIN Posted January 31, 2007 #7 Posted January 31, 2007 But do we know why it went dead? In my gut I know why -- The dealer keeps "a battery" on the charger for new bikes. The tech told me that "these bikes arrive with a battery that we need to fill and charge." Lord only knows what battery was put in my bike and what state it was in. I also know this --- for the first time yesterday since owning the bike --n after I charged it -- I got both red indicator lights upon start up just as they are supposed to do. Before I was not getting them. I'll put it on the charger again tonight -- do about 250 this weekend -- BUT STAY NEAR DEALERSHIPS !!!!! Thnx, Drebbin
Guest DREBBIN Posted January 31, 2007 #8 Posted January 31, 2007 VERY GOOD INFO, thnx, DREBBIN Make sure the battery is good. Make sure that the battery is new and the dealer did not pull a fast one. I have heard story's that they know your bike is under warranty and will put a bad battery knowing you will get a new one. Fully charge the battery and do a load test on the battery. Read up on load testing. There are different ways to do this. Most will do it with a load tester. I use the car or bike that the battery belongs to. After making sure that the battery is fully charge put a vote meter across the battery. Disable the engine so it can not start. Crank the engine for 15 seconds the voltage should not drop below 9.5 votes. Higher the voltage the better shape the battery is in. Do not over heat the starter. All so make sure that there is not a drain on the battery when the key is off. Battery drain test. There are many way to do this also. Have a charge battery. Turn everything off. Remove one of the battery terminals. I use the positive (red) side. Use a 12 vote test light (test your light first) hook one of the test light to the battery terminal and the other end of the test light to the battery. With everything turned off the light should be off. Now to test this turn on something like the key, the more you turn on the brighter the test light gets. Turn everything back off, the test light should go out. If the test light dose not go out there is something on or you have a drain on the battery. That's my:2cents:
Tartan Terror Posted January 31, 2007 #9 Posted January 31, 2007 If you bought the battery tender leave it on all the time. I have Batter Tenders on both of my bikes and when they go in the garage I plug it it. It is a battery maintainance system that trickle charges the battery to keep it set up. Cold will run a bettery down a little. The tender will not allow it to over charge. Scotty
Squeeze Posted January 31, 2007 #10 Posted January 31, 2007 In cold Conditions, and if you use a Standard Lead/Acid Battery, i recommend, before Starting the Engine, leave the Lights on for 30 Seconds. Seems to be stupid without Explanation. It is not ... The starting Power the Battery is able to give ist in direct Context to the inner Resistance of the Battery. If the Acid is cold, the Resistance will be high, e.G. 10 Ohm. If you start the Bike right away, the Resistance in the Battery is much higher than that of the Startermotor. The Startermotor ist in short Circuit in the first Moment of putting Current on it. As the Startermotor starts to turn, the Resistance rises to the normal Level of about 2 to 4 Ohm. The Resistance of the Battery with 10 Ohm and the Motor with Zero or maybe 2 Ohm, is much more a Batteryheater than a enginestarting Subsystem. The Power of the Battery gets lost while heating and cranking the Engine. If the Engine doesn't start right away, the Batterypower gets weaker and weaker, even if it is now heated with own its Power. There is no more Power left to deliver to the Starter. If you put on your Lights first, the Battery will have the same starting Resistance, 10 Ohm as i said. The Bulbs have a much higher Resistance, so, the Bulbs will shine and the Battery gets also heatet but not that quick and not that energyconsumpting as a failed starting Sequence will have used. The inner Resistance of the Battery drops down on warmer Condition inside the Battery. 30 Seconds later ... Voila... press the Button and the Starter cranks more powerfull, because this Circuit isn't a Batteryheater anymore. By "preheating" the Acid, it is more Capacity awakened as the Loss by the Lights is. The 10 Ohm as the inner Resistance is not the correct Value, it is just for explanation and better Understanding of the System. In Fact the Resistance is more 1 Ohm than 10, anyways, this tiny Trick works on all Lead/Acid-Batteries for sure. Cars, Bikes, Trucks ... Might also be helpful on Batterytypes, but not that impressive, because other Types have a way smaller inner Resistance by System. This is not my idea, i did learn this Years ago, when i was 3 Days send to a Batterymanufacterer for a 3 Days Seminar.
Yammer Dan Posted January 31, 2007 #11 Posted January 31, 2007 Lot of good battery info in this one plus I think I can adapt Al's test to see which of my accessories is causing me problems. Right?
chabicheka Posted January 31, 2007 #12 Posted January 31, 2007 In cold Conditions, and if you use a Standard Lead/Acid Battery, i recommend, before Starting the Engine, leave the Lights on for 30 Seconds. Seems to be stupid without Explanation. It is not ... The starting Power the Battery is able to give ist in direct Context to the inner Resistance of the Battery. If the Acid is cold, the Resistance will be high, e.G. 10 Ohm. If you start the Bike right away, the Resistance in the Battery is much higher than that of the Startermotor. The Startermotor ist in short Circuit in the first Moment of putting Current on it. As the Startermotor starts to turn, the Resistance rises to the normal Level of about 2 to 4 Ohm. The Resistance of the Battery with 10 Ohm and the Motor with Zero or maybe 2 Ohm, is much more a Batteryheater than a enginestarting Subsystem. The Power of the Battery gets lost while heating and cranking the Engine. If the Engine doesn't start right away, the Batterypower gets weaker and weaker, even if it is now heated with own its Power. There is no more Power left to deliver to the Starter. If you put on your Lights first, the Battery will have the same starting Resistance, 10 Ohm as i said. The Bulbs have a much higher Resistance, so, the Bulbs will shine and the Battery gets also heatet but not that quick and not that energyconsumpting as a failed starting Sequence will have used. The inner Resistance of the Battery drops down on warmer Condition inside the Battery. 30 Seconds later ... Voila... press the Button and the Starter cranks more powerfull, because this Circuit isn't a Batteryheater anymore. By "preheating" the Acid, it is more Capacity awakened as the Loss by the Lights is. The 10 Ohm as the inner Resistance is not the correct Value, it is just for explanation and better Understanding of the System. In Fact the Resistance is more 1 Ohm than 10, anyways, this tiny Trick works on all Lead/Acid-Batteries for sure. Cars, Bikes, Trucks ... Might also be helpful on Batterytypes, but not that impressive, because other Types have a way smaller inner Resistance by System. This is not my idea, i did learn this Years ago, when i was 3 Days send to a Batterymanufacterer for a 3 Days Seminar. awesomm....... now want to repeat that in english, squeeze? just kidding... hey don...i think squeeze here just earned himself an award...dont you think so, guys?
Squeeze Posted January 31, 2007 #13 Posted January 31, 2007 awesomm....... now want to repeat that in english, squeeze? just kidding... hey don...i think squeeze here just earned himself an award...dont you think so, guys? sorry, my English is not that bad ? isn't it ?
cecdoo Posted January 31, 2007 #14 Posted January 31, 2007 Your English is a hecka of alot better than my German:rotf: Thanks for the info, I will give it a try Craig
1BigDog Posted January 31, 2007 #15 Posted January 31, 2007 You know, as I see it, the bike is an 07. There really should be NO issues with the battery. So.....I would insist that the Dealer just replace the battery with a new one under warranty. I personally would not trust that battery under any circumstances. While hes at it, run a test on the charging system too. Also, make sure you see the new battery coming out of a new box. Just my humble opinion.
Boomer Posted January 31, 2007 #16 Posted January 31, 2007 Squeeze.....EXCELLENT job with that explanation!!
Condor Posted January 31, 2007 #18 Posted January 31, 2007 After I got the 07 RSV home yesterday from the dealer checking my dead batt, I immediately hooked up the new Battery Tender -- it went SOLID RED right away which of course means it is hooked up OK and has at least 3 volts. It took 5.5 hours to get to GREEN FLASHING = at least 80% charge. Then at 7 hrs it was SOLID GREEN. Whaddya think? Ok battery? 7 hours with a 3amp charger is about right on a batt that is rated at 25-30 CCA's. The charger prob'ly went into the green at about 80% charge. Those inexpensive 'dumb' chargers will never charge to max as they continue to drop voltage the closer a battery gets to max so they don't ever quite get there, and those that have a constant voltage and are designed to maintanin a battery generally only put out around 12.9vdc. which isn't enough to charge anything to max. If you can fire up the scoot after it hits the green, then take it for a ride at 3,000+ for about half an hour. If the bike charging system is functioning properly it'll be topped off. Then go figure out what caused the battery to go dead.....
chabicheka Posted February 1, 2007 #19 Posted February 1, 2007 sorry, my English is not that bad ? isn't it ? thats not what i was trying to say, squeeze. your english couldnt have been any better. i was just trying to say it was too technical for ME, to understand. Excellent article, i must say. das var sehr gut! sie sprechen und schreiben sehr gut english! hows my deutch, by the way......nein? .....nicht gut? guten tag mein freund...und auf wiedersehen!
BradT Posted February 1, 2007 #20 Posted February 1, 2007 thats not what i was trying to say, squeeze. your english couldnt have been any better. i was just trying to say it was too technical for ME, to understand. Excellent article, i must say. das var sehr gut! sie sprechen und schreiben sehr gut english! hows my deutch, by the way......nein? .....nicht gut? guten tag mein freund...und auf wiedersehen! Hey Chubby Checker he never heard you Talk. Actually both of you guys have better english than some of us, just ask swifty. Brad
chabicheka Posted February 1, 2007 #21 Posted February 1, 2007 Hey Chubby Checker he never heard you Talk. Actually both of you guys have better english than some of us, just ask swifty. Brad thanks....
stardbog Posted February 1, 2007 #22 Posted February 1, 2007 Yeah another vote for squeeze's avard, Very helpfull article. :080402gudl_prv:
hipshot Posted February 1, 2007 #23 Posted February 1, 2007 squeeze. i understood ,very well ,your whole explanation. to tell you the truth, i was amazed at your knowlege of batteries,until you explained the three day seminar! lol very well done. i too vote FOR a tech. award! just jt.
Lone Eagle Posted February 1, 2007 #24 Posted February 1, 2007 You know, as I see it, the bike is an 07. There really should be NO issues with the battery. So.....I would insist that the Dealer just replace the battery with a new one under warranty. I personally would not trust that battery under any circumstances. While hes at it, run a test on the charging system too. Also, make sure you see the new battery coming out of a new box. Just my humble opinion. I would have to agree with Ruffrider on this one. Many here know I am not technically/mechanically inclined, but it sure sounds strange to me and something the dealer should be jumping on and resolving.
Freebird Posted February 1, 2007 #25 Posted February 1, 2007 Squeezes post has been copied to the tech library and award issued. Thank you very much.
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