Clutch line replacement

[1stbkadventure]

I have a '10 RSV, I installed new mini ape bars (2"). Replaced the brake line w/stainless, no problems. The clutch line that I got is one piece, no hard line underneath. The manufacturer says it is an exact fit, I ordered it 3" longer for the new bars.

Question-has anyone done this same job with a one piece line?

[cowpuc]

Not that exact job but I have built a number of Chops and other custom scoots thru the years that have required alterations of brake/clutch lines and know that others around here have too.. Any particular question about the job that one of us may be able to answer? Be glad to help if possible>>

Puc

[1stbkadventure]

Thank you PUC, Jedi master of the 1st gen, and all around motorcycle guru. The question is not about the mechanics of the job, it seems straight forward enough. The query is whether it should be done with part I have acquired. The 2nd gen clutch line starts off as a normal rubber line then changes into a hard line routed under the engine them back to a rubber to make the connection to the slave. The line I have is SS from top to bottom, the manufacturer (galfer) has said the all SS line will work. If any other of our RSV brethren have done the same, just wanted to know I would regret it later. It seems that with the hard line routed under the engine replacing it with the SS line might be problematic. Don't want to re-invent the wheel here.

[skydoc_17]

Hey George,

I know you were hoping for an answer from the Pucster, but I thought I would throw my iron in the fire as well. Because our Ventures are put together on an assembly line, the hard line can be attached to the frame, and the engine installed, then the rubber lines connected. The second reason is the hard line won't expand over time like the rubber lines will, and the hard line is cheaper than the rubber lines. Lastly, If the bike runs over an obstruction, (2X4, tree branch, deer, etc.) or goes down, the hard line would most likely hold up better. As far as the actual install goes, Attaching the S.S. line to the frame, and routing it away from engine heat, exhausts, and pinch points will be the primary concern. After the connection to the frame, be sure you can turn the handlebars from lock to lock without straining the clutch line. I personally would have used the hard line, but that is NO reason for you not to use the one piece line. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=54&title=second-gen-ss-6-pc-brake-26amp-3b-clutch-line-set-w-2f-vmax-splitter&cat=17

Earl

[cowpuc]

Sorry guys,, been under the weather for a couple days here..

Just for my own clarity here (and probably wayyyyy out in left field as usual but gonna say it anyway),, are we talking stainless woven "hardline" stuff here or are we talking solid lines like along the frame of a car? Stainless woven is AMAZING stuff and have used it A LOT and very successfully.. On the other hand, solid brake line like, purchasable from an Auto Parts store is a different animal though.. Ya gotta be careful using solid lines in places that have any movement at all because of line fatigue causing cracking and all that = remembering that most of our motors are rubber mounted and they do move around some so you still want to have flexibility even down on the slave. Also,, just motor vibrations can wreak havoc on anything solidly attached to the frame (noting even exhaust are rubber mounted and if you solid mount em vibrations increase dramatically).

[1stbkadventure]

Puc,

The gen II has normal rubber line then transitions to a hard brake line type then back to rubber at the slave. I have a woven stainless line that goes from top to bottom in one piece. The issue in question is the multiple bends the hard line takes along the way. I was just curious if anyone else had gone this route. Most probably just replace the upper rubber with stainless and leave the hard line alone.