Soldering Brass Instrument

[GolfVenture]

I found a leak in my old bugle.

 

Anyone have some instructions on how to solder it.

 

If that fixes it great but if it there are other leaks then is there a suggestion how to solder all the connection joints.

 

See Pictures.

[Flyinfool]

Brass instruments are typically silver soldered together. You may be able to fix it by just cleaning the leak, apply flux and reheating the joint with a torch and reflowing the solder that is already there.

 

You will want to rig up a jig to hold the parts in alignment while you are heating it so that nothing can move while the solder is liquid.

 

If that does not work you will need to clean the leak as good as you can and then use a silver bearing solder and flux which will melt at soldering iron temps, (Stay-Brite is one brand at many hardware stores and hobby shops). You will need a very big soldering iron or you may have to use a torch to get the brass hot enough.

[uncledj]

Soldering, and especially soldering neatly is a skill that many experienced plumbers don't have.

The trick is managing the heat. 99 44/100 % of people tend to overheat.

If you'd like I can send you some Stay Bright 8 and a bit of flux. (It won't take much of either)

I really don't think you'll be able to do it with an electric gun. I'd use a propane torch with very low heat, or perhaps even one of those butane torches will do.

Clean it, apply a smidge of flux, and bring the heat up slowly until it begins to melt, and keep the heat moving. Remember, the solder will flow towards the heat.

Stay bright 8 is a little easier to use than the standard Stay bright as it has a wider range between solid / molten, giving you a little more leeway / time to make a neat joint.

I'll say it again.....resist the urge to overheat. When it goes molten, remove the heat, and reapply when it starts to solidify.

With some practice you can keep the temp just right to where you can make a beautiful joint. If you're having trouble getting adhesion, apply another smidgen of flux while it's molten, and the solder will take immediately.

 

Lemme know if you want me to send you enough solder / flux to do the job.

[GolfVenture]

Thank you for your advises.

 

Yes, I'd appreciate receiving enough solder and flux to fix it.

 

I will PM my address.

 

I have a butane torch, but have never done this type of repair, but I enjoy learning for the first time.

 

I will remember about joints.

[cowpuc]

Soldering, and especially soldering neatly is a skill that many experienced plumbers don't have.

The trick is managing the heat. 99 44/100 % of people tend to overheat.

If you'd like I can send you some Stay Bright 8 and a bit of flux. (It won't take much of either)

I really don't think you'll be able to do it with an electric gun. I'd use a propane torch with very low heat, or perhaps even one of those butane torches will do.

Clean it, apply a smidge of flux, and bring the heat up slowly until it begins to melt, and keep the heat moving. Remember, the solder will flow towards the heat.

Stay bright 8 is a little easier to use than the standard Stay bright as it has a wider range between solid / molten, giving you a little more leeway / time to make a neat joint.

I'll say it again.....resist the urge to overheat. When it goes molten, remove the heat, and reapply when it starts to solidify.

With some practice you can keep the temp just right to where you can make a beautiful joint. If you're having trouble getting adhesion, apply another smidgen of flux while it's molten, and the solder will take immediately.

 

Lemme know if you want me to send you enough solder / flux to do the job.

 

:sign yeah that:

+1 :sign yeah that:

 

and,, cleanliness,, scrub a dub dub = wire brush clean,,, like welding,, clean metal means good weld... Nothing purdier than a really pretty slobber job and nothing uglier than a messy one IMHO..

[cowpuc]

GnV = love the Bugle brother!! THAT is wayyy cool!! THANKS for the pics!!

Any markings on it that you can share??

 

Sorry for the hi-jack!!

[GolfVenture]

GnV = love the Bugle brother!! THAT is wayyy cool!! THANKS for the pics!!

Any markings on it that you can share??

 

Sorry for the hi-jack!!

 

Here you go cowpuc

[uncledj]

Sent you about a foot or so of 1/8" Stay Bright 8......more than enough flux to do a few bugles.......a Scotchbrite abrasive pad......and a flux brush. You should get it about the middle of next week.

Some Rumball soaked Fool said you should consider heating it just enough to melt the existing solder and let it re-bond. I think that's the best idea. Clean it with the Scotchbrite, trying to focus on the joint to be soldered as specifically as possible, so as not to mar the finish any more than necessary....apply a light film of flux, and heat it just enough to melt the existing solder for a second, then remove the heat and see what ya got. If that didn't do it, you may need to add some solder, but if you can do it without adding solder, you won't risk changing the original look of that beautiful instrument.

Make sure to thoroughly clean all flux off after you're finished; preferably while it's still warm. Any flux left on will quickly oxidize the brass.

Best of luck, and let us know how it turns out.

[Flyinfool]

Sent you about a foot or so of 1/8" Stay Bright 8......more than enough flux to do a few bugles.......a Scotchbrite abrasive pad......and a flux brush. You should get it about the middle of next week.

Some Rumball soaked Fool said you should consider heating it just enough to melt the existing solder and let it re-bond. I think that's the best idea. Clean it with the Scotchbrite, trying to focus on the joint to be soldered as specifically as possible, so as not to mar the finish any more than necessary....apply a light film of flux, and heat it just enough to melt the existing solder for a second, then remove the heat and see what ya got. If that didn't do it, you may need to add some solder, but if you can do it without adding solder, you won't risk changing the original look of that beautiful instrument.

Make sure to thoroughly clean all flux off after you're finished; preferably while it's still warm. Any flux left on will quickly oxidize the brass.

Best of luck, and let us know how it turns out.

 

Hey I resemble that comment......

[saddlebum]

JMHO But as far as a heat source goes I would go with a good iron specially if your new at this it is easier to control. A flame can quickly over heat and warp the parts unless you are very familiar with the torch you are using. In either case only slowly heat until the base metal melts the solder to a good flow and no more. Any discoloring caused by heating provided it is not too severe should polish out.

[cowpuc]

Here you go cowpuc

 

Thanks GnV = THAT is wayyyy cool IMHO.. Dont know much about vintage Bugles but a quick glance on Google show's that

horn coulda been something from as far back as the Civil War - pretty neat!!

Next question is,, can ya play it??

[GolfVenture]

Thanks GnV = THAT is wayyyy cool IMHO.. Dont know much about vintage Bugles but a quick glance on Google show's that

horn coulda been something from as far back as the Civil War - pretty neat!!

Next question is,, can ya play it??

 

Yes, I can play it. That is how I discovered the leak. The bugle's sound/pitch wasn't what it used to be. So I cleaned the inside and as the pieces was apart and putting soapy water in it I found the leak.

 

I used Mr Metal all over the bugle to bring back its origional shine. After I get it all fixed and repolished, I will then have to play it with white gloves so the oil from my hands do not tarnish it.

[Flyinfool]

Give it a good coat of auto wax to keep the fingerprints from marring it.

[GolfVenture]

Sent you about a foot or so of 1/8" Stay Bright 8......more than enough flux to do a few bugles.......a Scotchbrite abrasive pad......and a flux brush. You should get it about the middle of next week.

Some Rumball soaked Fool said you should consider heating it just enough to melt the existing solder and let it re-bond. I think that's the best idea. Clean it with the Scotchbrite, trying to focus on the joint to be soldered as specifically as possible, so as not to mar the finish any more than necessary....apply a light film of flux, and heat it just enough to melt the existing solder for a second, then remove the heat and see what ya got. If that didn't do it, you may need to add some solder, but if you can do it without adding solder, you won't risk changing the original look of that beautiful instrument.

Make sure to thoroughly clean all flux off after you're finished; preferably while it's still warm. Any flux left on will quickly oxidize the brass.

Best of luck, and let us know how it turns out.

 

Got it today. Got right on it.

 

Took a few tries until the the water stop leaking when I filled the bugle with water. Sounds really good now the leaks are plugged. My soldering techniques needs vast improvements. whats the best way to get the excess off?

[uncledj]

Generally, to remove excess solder, I'll heat the joint just enough to melt the solder and wipe it with a cloth.

I usually do this before I've wiped off the flux. The tough thing here is that , depending on how much excess solder you have, you don't want to get that solder to adhere to the brass anywhere outside the joint, as you'll be able to see it.

I think that what you should do is (different from what I just said) .......Thoroughly wipe off all flux.....heat until solder JUST melts, wipe with a cloth, repeat as needed.

With the flux removed, there'll be less chance of adhesion outside the joint.

 

The solder is soft, so you can also quickly remove it with mechanical abrasion (sandcloth, file) but there's a pretty good chance you'll mar the brass. You may also wish to file off any gobs you have,....stopping with the filing when getting close to the base metal, then try the heat / wipe thing.

 

Don't feel bad about your torch skills needing improvement........Like I said......there's guys who are at the top of their trade who've been doing it for years that need a lot of improvement. They just don't know it, because they've never seen it done properly......They think what they're doing is normal and good.

I guess that's true of a lot of trades / skills..........(sigh.....)

[Flyinfool]

How to get off the excess depends on just how much excess there is.

Pics would help here.

If it is a blob, then I would start by heating and wiping it off. There will always be a layer left from wiping that is bonded to the brass, the only way to remove that is with abrasion. use a very small very fine file to get most of it off with out getting into the brass. Then start with about 400 wet dry used wet to get the rest off and down to the bare brass, then work thru finer grits used wet and finally the same polish that the rest is done with so that it matches. If you go real slow and careful you can clean it all off and not damage the base metal an no one will ever know anything happened.

[GolfVenture]

Heated and tried to wipe with a cloth.

 

It leaks again.

 

Will try again tomorrow.

[uncledj]

I remember when I was around 16, I was at my best friends house, and his dad.....a guy I looked up to as one of those guys who could fix anything....was cleaning an old GM distributor that he'd been working on a couple of days earlier.

I said "Hey Joe....I thought you had that fixed".....

He said, as he stood there focused on the distributor, with a Camel unfiltered dangling from his lips,

"John.....If at first you don't succeed....keep tryin' 'till you break the G*d d*mn thing."

 

Sound wisdom.

 

If you want to take it to the next level, ...if you pay shipping, I'd be happy to give it a try.

[GolfVenture]

My soldering was so bad that I couldn't stand it any more.

 

I took it to the local music shop, where they solder all sorts of brass instruments.

 

Being that I had already filled all the leaks, they said that the solder only needed cleaning up.

 

They only charged me $25.00.

 

I then cleaned it with what the music shop recommended with Mr Metal.

 

Afterwards I polished with some good car wax.

 

Now it is so slippery that my white gloves just wont grip it.

 

So I use a latex glove.

 

Works pretty good.

 

I've included a picture.