oil leak or so it seams

[Wingzz]

So finally got the bike out for a short ride around the hood last night, still having front brake issues but they seem to be getting better so I'll keep bleeding them, anyway woke up this morning and found a pretty good oil leak on the left side of the bike, any suggestions on how to determine where it is leaking from? I did remove and replace the side cover where the slave cyl is, is it possible that the gasket didn't seal up well there? any tips on getting a old paper gasket to seal up?

[Marcarl]

You'll need a new gasket and make sure you have the copper washer in place on the center bottom-most screw.

[Air Ready Auto]

You'll need a new gasket and make sure you have the copper washer in place on the center bottom-most screw.

 

[Flyinfool]

So finally got the bike out for a short ride around the hood last night, still having front brake issues but they seem to be getting better so I'll keep bleeding them, anyway woke up this morning and found a pretty good oil leak on the left side of the bike, any suggestions on how to determine where it is leaking from?

 

The easiest way is to clean off all of the oil and then it is much easier to see the leak.

 

I did remove and replace the side cover where the slave cyl is, is it possible that the gasket didn't seal up well there?

 

Not just possible but highly likely

 

any tips on getting a old paper gasket to seal up?

 

Real easy, get a new one, you are trying to get a 35 year old paper gasket to reseal.

 

As mentioned make sure that the copper washer is under the head of the bottom screw. That bottom screw is drilled into the oil sump and the copper washer is to stop the oil from leaking out along the sides of that screw.

 

Another common leak in that area is where the stator wires come out the top rear of the left engine cover. While you have the middle gear cover off you will be able to see where the wires come out of that cover.

[Wingzz]

ok cleaned it off and it looked like it was just coming out of the cover so I tightened up the bolts on the side cover a bit more and especially the bottom one with the copper washer and that seems to have slowed the leak down to a drip or two overnight so I may give them another little touch to try to get that last little drip cleared up.

Still fighting the front brakes, thought I was making progress as the front wheel was stopping with the brakes and then all of a sudden it seems to have lost it again and I'm back to nothing in the front, going to try to reverse bleed them tonight and hopefully that will help, else its a master cyl rebuild

[videoarizona]

Take the master cylinder apart and look it over carefully. My bet is the rubber inside is shot and air is leaking into the system and it's losing it's "prime"!

 

It's a very basic system, easy to work on. Rebuild kits are cheap....

[ricksbike]

I don`t think I would tighten those screws much more,the torque on them is 100 inch pounds,new gasket would probably be better than taking a chance on pulling the threads on the case.

[camos]

Take the master cylinder apart and look it over carefully. My bet is the rubber inside is shot and air is leaking into the system and it's losing it's "prime"!

 

It's a very basic system, easy to work on. Rebuild kits are cheap....

If you are referring to the right front brake lever pump losing its prime due to air leaking in, the problem will not be inside the master cylinder since no air can get to it if the reservoir is full and there are no leaks at the first banjo. Well, more or less, there is a possibility the hose could leak near the banjo and suck air in when the lever is released and if air is getting in near the caliper that air may eventually migrate up to the banjo and be able to be drawn into the pump cylinder upon release.

 

When bleeding the right front it will take approximately 7 or 8 pumps (as I recall, I made a post on this somewhere a while ago so take that number as approximate) of the lever to move any air from the top near the MC down to the caliper. This means if air comes out immediately after starting the bleeding process the air is coming from the caliper area. If air come out after a number of pumps then it is travelling from near the MC.

[camos]

I don`t think I would tighten those screws much more,the torque on them is 100 inch pounds,new gasket would probably be better than taking a chance on pulling the threads on the case.

Or bottoming out and cracking the case.

[videoarizona]

If you are referring to the right front brake lever pump losing its prime due to air leaking in, the problem will not be inside the master cylinder since no air can get to it if the reservoir is full and there are no leaks at the first banjo. Well, more or less, there is a possibility the hose could leak near the banjo and suck air in when the lever is released and if air is getting in near the caliper that air may eventually migrate up to the banjo and be able to be drawn into the pump cylinder upon release.

 

When bleeding the right front it will take approximately 7 or 8 pumps (as I recall, I made a post on this somewhere a while ago so take that number as approximate) of the lever to move any air from the top near the MC down to the caliper. This means if air comes out immediately after starting the bleeding process the air is coming from the caliper area. If air come out after a number of pumps then it is travelling from near the MC.

 

Hi Clive,

From my experience, I was getting air in the system of my clutch from the piston o ring leaking air into system and losing operation after a few days. Rebuild kit solved problem. Similar symptoms on his brake. The O ring was shot. That's what I was talking about. I agree the banjo junctions are a leak point, but rarely see them leak.

[Wingzz]

Well thanks for all the suggestions, the brakes are doing ok, now, not perfect but useable, as far as the oil leak I think I'm going to take the side cover back off and this time I'll use some gasket sealer on the paper gasket, I did not use any the first time and think that may be part of the issue

[camos]

Hi Clive,

From my experience, I was getting air in the system of my clutch from the piston o ring leaking air into system and losing operation after a few days. Rebuild kit solved problem. Similar symptoms on his brake. The O ring was shot. That's what I was talking about. I agree the banjo junctions are a leak point, but rarely see them leak.

I'm not sure how this relates to your experience. Leaking o-rings in the piston will allow fluid to bypass when under pressure (while squeezing lever) which could reduce the effectiveness of the brakes but if there are no leaks in the system air cannot get into the piston to make it lose its prime.

 

Perhaps in your case, it felt like it had lost prime due to the leaky o-rings preventing any pressure built up. I doubt bad o-rings would have that effect when bleeding an open system, one that has the bleeder valve opened, for example.

[camos]

Well thanks for all the suggestions, the brakes are doing ok, now, not perfect but useable, as far as the oil leak I think I'm going to take the side cover back off and this time I'll use some gasket sealer on the paper gasket, I did not use any the first time and think that may be part of the issue

When using gasket sealer, I have found it best to put the cover on only finger tight to evenly spread the goo and allow any air that might be trapped to get out. After the set time in the instructions, torque down to specs incrementally by going around the circumference tightening each bolt about 1/4 turn at a time. It is relatively easy to slightly warp lightweight covers.

[Wingzz]

Thanks for the tip, that makes sense, hopefully that takes care of the leak, as that is the last major issue