Clutch leakin

[Grez007]

Pulled the 83 out to go for a ride this morning and when i pulled the clutch in there was no pressure there, open the reservior and its empty. So i take the plastic off checking for leaks(there is no drips where it was parked)and its bone dry all the way down. So i figure the slave is leaking and i take off the the engine cover that hides it (crank cover?)to take a look. Sure enough its pretty wet around the bottom of the slave cyl, so i decide to rip it out and get a new one or rebuild it, this is where the problems begin,the head of the bottom screw is stripped from whoever was in there last, i tried hammering a torx bit in there to get some grip but no luck. I stick an Allen key in the top screw to try to get it out and it is so tight that im afraid of breaking the head off the screw. It is such a bad spot for drilling the screws out and am trying not to snap anything but they are in there real good. I am thinking that it must only be leaking a little bit and burning off on the exhaust because i havent checked the fluid since back in the spring and it has taken until now to get empty. So i filled it and bled it and its up and working and ill keep an eye on the fluid level but i would like to fix it over the winter. Any ideas how im going to get those stubborn little bolts out?.

[bongobobny]

Well, this may not be the answer that you are looking for, but here are my observations!

 

For the cover, the head was probably stripped out from someone using an SAE screwdriver on a JIS (Japan Industrial Standard) screw. The angle of the slots is different and that is why an SAE screwdriver strips them out. If you are going to work on a metric bike, be sure to use metric tools on herm to include the screwdrivers!

 

As far as the slave cylinder bolts go, first make sure you are using a good set of metric Allen keys, and not SAE! Yes, they are tight, and it sure does seem like you are going to either strip the head out or snap the bolt! You may want to try some sort of impact driver, either electric, pneumatic, or mechanical "hit them with a hammer" type! Speaking of hammers, you might want to consider giving the Allen bit a wack to make sure it is secure! Try using 1/2 inch drive tools as well...

 

Good luck with your project, and while you are replacing the slave, there is also a rubber gasket on the end of the pushrod that you may want to consider replacing while you have the slave off!

[cowpuc]

Unless I am misreading something here, once again = getting to be a daily bad habit of mine, it sounds like you are talking about the bolt/screws that hold the slave itself in place = is this correct? If so and it were mine I would clean the area up really really well so I didnt start a fire, set a fire extinguisher (or at least a spray bottle with water in it) next to me, drag out my Oxy/Ace torch, screw on a small orfice brasing tip, probably drop my regulators down to 10 oxy and 5 acetylene or less if needed to keep the lil tip lit, after getting a real nice purdy blue tipped flame adjusted on my torch I would put the tip of that little blue flame right in center of a screw and I would hold it there till the head of the screw turned red.. Then I would do the other screw in the same way..

In my case,, and its probably not normal cause I am no guru when it comes to this stuff, brake fluid seems to have some strange affects on aluminum and even more so when steel screws are involved within the aluminum.. The stuff (brake fluid) tends to act almost caustic and can, over a period of time, cause steel bolts/screws to become especially ornry about being willing to give up their terrain.. I have also found that a little heat from the torch helps a lot.. Also,, it is possible that someone changed out that slave before and decided to use Loctite on those screws.. If they used Red Loctite = HEAT is a must.. If they used Blue = heat is still your friend..

If you do what I am suggesting here BE WARNED = you really really really do NOT want to heat the case casting = just the screw head..

 

Next,, what would I do if the bolt/screw head is screwed up?? If I could not get ahold of it with the nose of set of vise grips and put a set of 16 inch channel locks on the body of the vise grips and break em loose that way, I would probably heat the head to cherry red, take small chisel and drive a slot across the red hot body/face of the bolt and finish forming this new flat screw driver slot with the large flat screw driver tip from my hand impact driver while the head was red. Then I would spray the head down with cold water and use my impact driver to bring it out..

[Grez007]

Thanks for the replies fellas, most of these ideas have crossed my mind, none are really attractive but that’s the way it goes sometimes with these old girls. I have a set of JIS drivers that i use whenever i can. The small bolts in question here metric hex(allen) head. It seems to be holding for now and will be ok for the next bit until winter hits and i can take the bike off the road to attack them

 

 

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[Marcarl]

Had one like that on Wayne's 84, ended up drilling the sucker out. Worked out well that time, everything back to OEM, but the engine was out. Took a lot of different bits and drivers and a pile of patience if I remember correct.

[Grez007]

So i have been worrying about this for a while, considering what i would do if i broke one of those allen bolts in there. So last week after there was some salt put on the roads i figured i was done riding for the season and decided to attack thosetwo little bolts and deal with the consequences whatever they may be. I ran the bike and let it idle till the fan was kicking on and off then shut er off and whipped the middle gear cover off real quick while there was still heat in the motor. I put the long end of a hex key in the top bolt of the slave, put a small deep socket and an extension on the short end of the hex key for some leverage and she was tight but it cracked loose....woohoo

now for the lower bolt with the stripped hex head in it, i briefly tried with the hex key and tried hammering a torx bit in there but they just spun in there. My next move was to find a socket that would NOT quite fit over the head of the hex bolt and make it fit by hammering it on there, a 3/8" socket will tightly hammer on and hold the outside of the hex bolt, put a extension in it and a ratchet and it came loose!!

one small victory, time to order a new slave and gasket for the middle gear cover:group cheers: