New Member Needs Help! Fuel just POURING - LOTS of Fuel!

[bongobobny]

Yup, CLASS is only supposed to work on Acc, it's a safety feature!! They didn't think it would be a good idea to be tweaking your suspension dynamics on the fly! I sort of agree with that...

 

Your vibration can be a multitude of things! The first thing I would check is the proper torque on the head bearings. I would also consider replacing your neck bearings regardless as they are very old, and the grease in them may have changed to glue. There also can be an issue with the rear tire, or bushings on the swing arm, etc, etc, etc!

 

Front forks. Replace the fork seals with OEM, not aftermarket, too many aftermarket ones leak! You may also want to consider replacing your old worn out springs with a new set of Progressive brand springs and new shock oil. There was never a set of rubber boots over the fork tubes from the factory, what you saw was most likely aftermarket. Other than being ugly, they do protect the upper tubes from getting pits and dings which lead to minor leaking...

 

Your cruise control vacuum actuator is located on the left side upper fairing bracket...

[7 lakes]

How old is the tire? They have a life span after being mounted and run, maybe check the date codes on the tires? An old stiff tire can't flex fast enough for the profile changes in high speed rotation and will feel lumpy at speed like a low profile auto tire on a cold morning. That can mimic an out of balance condition. If it only feels rough at high speed I'd be concerned about the tire.

 

Tim

[cptriker1]

Well the vibration problem has been solved. It turned out that the Avon Tire that I had on the front, I was told by the previous owner that it was a very new tire. The local dealer that I use the owner took one look at the tire and told me that it was 4 years old. So I ordered a new tire and it is been installed. It appears now that the vibration issue has essentially been taken care of.

 

However, the rim that's on the bike is a little out of Tolerance according to the manufacturer specification. I tried to get another Rim that I purchased from a shop off of eBay, but the night before I was ready to get the tire installed I stop by Harbor Freight and got me a brand new dial indicator and magnetic clamp base. I decided to check the rim, better to be safe than sorry. So with an additional $30 spent, I put the rim up to check and found that it was .052 thousands out of round! You literally can see a Bend at the bead wall on the rim it's that bad. So I had to choose the lesser of two evils, and use my rim. Oh yeah I forgot to mention that the replacement Rim also had Frozen wheel bearings.

 

But since the change out of the Avon Tire to the Dunlop, I've been able to obtain speeds in excess of 115. And no that's not my normal cruising speed, I just got the way out of traffic! That's been the only time I pop the bike that hard.

 

I have to say that I have been deeply disappointed in the stability of this bike while on the highway in windy situations. The bike seems to be more unstable in crosswind situations more so than a previous Goldwing that I owned. This is been quite surprising to me given how heavy this bike is. But I can't say that I'm very pleased with the power that it develops, and I have seen an average of 34 MPG. I did find out though that I cannot escape from running 92 Ron. When I switched from 87 to 92, I found that the valve train quit rattling.

 

However today I did notice on a 30 mile drive back to the house that the engine temperature was higher than what I expected. I'm planning to test the antifreeze and to start looking at the manual concerning Flushing and change out to see if this addresses the problem. I do not think that it is the thermostat because I do see when it is opening and closing with the temperature variations on the gauge.

 

Also, I'm planning to include water wetter in the 50/50 mix when I get it flushed. I'm also considering removing a facade piece from the side of the engine in order to allow even more air flow from the radiator off the bike.

 

But so far as things are going right now, the bike is doing okay. I did have to flush the clutch master cylinder out because I started losing pressure. I replace the fluid with brand new synthetic brake fluid and I'm pleased to report that the difference has been astounding. Hopefully, with this change the fluid and using a brake bleeder that I won't have to address this for quite some time to come. But I was thinking about waiting another few weeks and then flushing it again just to get any residual old fluid out. Certainly couldn't hurt.

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[7 lakes]

Glad you got the tire issue solved!

 

If replacing the fluid made that big a difference then the system internals are most likely not far from giving you trouble, I would suggest gathering parts and getting comfortable with servicing the master and maybe just replace the slave.

[CaseyJ955]

Glad you got alot of that sorted out. I hear you on the stability issue, mine gave me some pucker moments before I got it home. Its solid and stable now. Pop it up on the center stand and check out steering head bearings, then swing arm, any slop needs to be addressed. Make sure there are no ears broken off that fork brace that the front fender mounts too. Steering head bearings are enough to cause what your talking about, and more. Mine were worn and maladjusted, and it effected ride quality significantly. There is an old Yamaha sponsored video, circa 1980s floating around on youtube with a full walk through of steering head adjustment. I cant link with this phone but its there. If none of this works there is another thing to try regarding loosening and tightening tree and axle bolts but I cant recall the order. It sure worked for me after I put mine back together and it was worse, if you end up getting to that point I'll find and link the thread in which I was given that great advice.

[bongobobny]

If your carbs are out of sync that makes the engine run hotter. Also, how old is the thermostat??

 

You should be getting around 40 mpg, so if you are only getting 34 then something is wrong. Without reading through this whole thread, are you sure you are firing on all 4? These bikes can and will run quite well on just 3 cylinders. Perhaps you should invest in a spark gap tester and confirm you have good spark on all 4. You should be able to draw a minimum of 0.100" spark. I believe the factory spec is 0.109" or something like that. There are several things that can cause a weak spark, the dreaded green corrosion on the coil secondary, old wires, corrosion in the guts of the plug caps, etc.

 

I'm surprised you are having issues with crosswinds as normally this is not an issue. Perhaps part of the issue is with the swingarm suspension needing cleaning and lubricating. There are bushings for the shock arm that wear out and/or get dry. The main bearings for the arm may get worn, etc. That may contribute to crosswind resistance if the suspension is too rigid. Then again maybe it doesn't...

 

Yes, fuel grade can effect spark knock, but that is usually an indication of other issues such as valve adjustment, carb adjustment, or perhaps a defective boost sensor. The 1st gen should run satisfactorily on 87 octane fuel IF it is properly tuned up. This includes the valve, carb, and ignition tuning. I did have a slight issue with spark knock that higher octane did seem to cure until I replaced my spark plugs. Our bikes are extremely rough on plugs and seem to need replacing with as little as 5K on them sometimes. NGK's seem to work best, and yes it is worth the extra money to invest in the Iridium plugs...

[Patch]

"I have to say that I have been deeply disappointed in the stability of this bike while on the highway in windy situations. The bike seems to be more unstable in crosswind situations more so than a previous Goldwing that I owned. This is been quite surprising to me given how heavy this bike is. But I can't say that I'm very pleased with the power that it develops, and I have seen an average of 34 MPG. I did find out though that I cannot escape from running 92 Ron. When I switched from 87 to 92, I found that the valve train quit rattling."

 

There is a lot information in the above!

 

Like Bongo suggests you have missed things.

 

Not sure why when buying old sport machines more of us don't start with compression checks?

To be fare I haven't read all your posts perhaps you have?

 

If your bike hasn't a crisp throttle response her pony's aren't working together!

 

There was a time when we would not rebuild carbs before checking compression! CV Carbs need the low end pressure to do more than drip.

 

There is a balance designed in for performance trade off's, which are made early on in design for the category and expectations of overall satisfaction and to be competitive against other brands! Yamaha started with a clean sheet here and did a pretty good job.

 

The carbs are in the middle of a fluid/velocity/air band without warning lights to inform which isn't pulling their weight. That has a direct effect on lever or torque measured off the CL of her crank! Like 4 guys pushing a car and one is suffering a hangover;)

 

You need to know this by checking compression, then address if any issues, then final the carbs.

 

So I am guessing: you are getting back into riding and the last ride was a Wing 1200? If so yes these ride different in the wind but I found they are more predictable because they tack with wind on the beam.

 

Last year we road past many a parked bikes waiting for the wind to lighten up; only once did we both pucker up over a flyover when the gust caught us pushing us in to the next lane while leaning through the twist! I mention this to inspire confidence, she'll behave but you need to be sure of the setup, and lower your rear pressure on bad days to bring The CG down.

 

Another thing I did was cut my shield down which took pressure off my front. When I finally hit the right mark I was pleased with the results.

 

I know it must seem like a long and lots of hours to get her to where she is. If This helps, when I take on a project I start with the known complaints, then start hunting parts for tired replacements while I work my book of tricks on the drive train - and that always starts with compression!

 

Patch

[Patch]

"I did find out though that I cannot escape from running 92 Ron. When I switched from 87 to 92, I found that the valve train quit rattling."

 

That has been rattling around my head since reading (sometimes it gets pretty noisy in there)

 

Last year I worked on one that had some carb issues and other things. After checking the compression I found the left rear @190 on my gauge, so I switch gauges and same reading.

 

192 is the max tolerance. Now all the others ranged from 60 pounds up. This is a classic storage issue I've found on many old buys. A twin won't let you get away with this for very long; but a 4 banger is a different kettle with there crank offsets, it either creeps up on you or you can't know the difference because her present state is all you equate to!

 

So what takes advantage of fuel timing/duration, compression, hot spots, defective advance, yep

 

So we see this because you made the effort to be honest with your observations of the ride. If you can find a compression gauge transmit that info back AND snap a pic of the plugs in the order they came out C1, C2...

 

Patch