Hey guys new to the bigger bikes.. have some questions about the qvz1200 1983

[Faroutkid]

Hello all. My name is burr and I just bought a 1983 yamaha xvz venture. Starts right up, great bike. Looks good everythings in decent condition, im about to clean the carbs and the bike throughout. So my only question is the clutch acts as if its not therer at all. It doesnt engage. I click down to 1st and it just goes as if i wasnt holding the clutch. How do i bleed it? Or what should i look into rebuilding? I purchased this bike with a clean title for $350. Need help.

[luvmy40]

Check the clutch fluid reservoir for fluid(DOT3) first. If that's full then you will probably be rebuilding either the master or slave or both. If it's empty, find the leek, fix it, fill'er up and bleed.

 

I suppose it may just need bled but if the reservoir is full, I doubt it.

 

To be honest, I've never had to bleed my clutch system so I'm actually not sure how big a job that is.

[Faroutkid]

Check the clutch fluid reservoir for fluid(DOT3) first. If that's full then you will probably be rebuilding either the master or slave or both. If it's empty, find the leek, fix it, fill'er up and bleed.

 

I suppose it may just need bled but if the reservoir is full, I doubt it

To be honest, I've never had to bleed my clutch system so I'm actually not sure how big a job that is.

 

 

 

 

 

Well the resevoir is full so ill be rebuilding forsure.. ive really actually never owned a streetbike mostly just dirtbikes fourwheelers.. so this is kind of new how do i go about rebuilding the slave and master clutch cylinder? Has 60,000 on the clock if its right. I was told 2nd gear may be gone

[videoarizona]

Welcome to our group.

 

Your bike is a 1st generation Venture.

 

The very first thing I would recommend is to go to the Read only technical library on this site. Under "Forum". Download the service manual.

 

Second, start reading all about the clutch...the 3rd topic under the 1st Generation tech library is about rebuilding the clutch.

 

Third, after doing all of that....if you look on the right side of the page, near the top...you should see a small rectangular white box area. That is the search function. Type in your search words, IE, clutch, or master cylinder...for example and follow the suggested threads. Also, if you find a thread that is close to what you are looking for... look down at the bottom of the page...there are other suggestions offered by the site that will probably pertain to what you are reading. They are in order of age/date.

 

Doing all this will keep you busy repairing and shining up your bike! If you get stumped by a post....shout out and someone should jump in shortly with some thoughts to help.

 

If you haven't joined, this is the best $12 you will ever spend! Do so...

 

OH...take pics of your bike. Before and after... and post here. We like to see what others do, how they are doing and, of course, pictures are worth more than a thousand words around here! They also help tremendously to solve problems when we can see what you are referring to.

 

Again, welcome...and enjoy your bike! (can't wait to hear what you have to say when you crack the throttle for the 1st time....heehee)

[videoarizona]

Well the resevoir is full so ill be rebuilding forsure.. ive really actually never owned a streetbike mostly just dirtbikes fourwheelers.. so this is kind of new how do i go about rebuilding the slave and master clutch cylinder? Has 60,000 on the clock if its right. I was told 2nd gear may be gone

 

Before you do anything else....

rDrain the clutch system, refill with fresh DOT3 and bleed. Try again. You may have to bleed and flush more than once to get the crud out. After doing that a few times, and if you still don't have a clutch, then time to think about rebuilding master and putting in a new slave. Slave is located at the bottom center of the motor...hidden .... left side.

[bongobobny]

I know I will get disagreeing opinions here, but the best way to bleed the clutch is by using a vacuum pump, which usually costs around $20 - $40, and a speed bleeder which will run you around $10. Just make sure you have connected the vacuum pump to suck and not blow and use a little Teflon tape on the speed bleeder threads. It is important to make sure the reservoir never runs out of fluid while doing this. Also, if you look into the reservoir you will see a tiny pinhole in the bottom. Make sure that hole is not plugged up...

[Air Ready Auto]

I wish I could claim it but one of our members did this. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?116337-Clutch-Hydraulic-Rebuild-Tutorial

[Faroutkid]

Thanks guys for all the replies, im gonna have to bleed it a few times and make sure everythings out... then ill look into a rebuild. Ill definitely be buying a membership come payday! Luckily the bike came with a service manual and ill get some pics up soon!

[cowpuc]

If I were in your shoes and I had a pretty good idea that the previous owner didnt just refill a totally dry clutch system that he had discovered dry after the bike had sat for a long time here is where I would begin.

The high spot that I have discovered in the clutch system is where the clutch line bango's (or connects to) the master cylinder - the master cylinder is whats in front of the clutch lever..

I would pack the area under and around the master with rags and cover the scoot under the area cause hydraulic fluid is pretty nasty stuff, Now I would swivel the bars so the master is level, pull the cap and gently pull the clutch lever and gently release = wear saftey glasses until you get the hang of the system = a working master will spit in your eye.. You will see two hole in the bottom of the resevoir - the foward hole (as I recall) is the return hole and it is tiny.. Take a piece of wire out of a wire brush and poke thru it to make sure its not plugged. Not seeing much action = lay the cover back over the res, loosen the bango bolt that holds the line on - loosen it carefully and little at a time and squeeze the lever and see if you dont get air out of there.. Hold the lever at bottom against the bar and tighten the bango. What you are doing is bleeding the system from the master first = does that make sense? Now with the bango tightened back up slowly release the lever and repeat.. Checking for resistance on the lever as you bleed - do you know what I am saying by that statement?

If nothing comes out at the bango joint, make sure you are loosening the banjo bolt enough to get fluid past the crush washers.. If you are and it just wont respond (this happens about 50% of the time when I am dealing with a scoot with issues like you describe) you may have to completely remove the bango bolt - pull the line back away from the master and use your finger tip in the hole of the master to bleed against. Just raise the line up so the fluid dont leak out, or have someone help you by placing their finger tips over the holes in the line so it dont leak. Now hold your finger tip gently over the hole where the bango goes into the master. Now pump the master with the lever. It takes a little practice to feel air against your finger - you just have to lightly let the air escape until the master primes.. after you have done this a number of times it only takes a second to get the master to prime.. After its primed and your getting solid fluid against you finger and you cant stop the pressure as you squeeze the lever no matter how hard you try, reattach the line, bleed it off at the bango and tighten er up.. Good chance you will have a clutch..

 

Hope this helps!!

 

OPPSSSS, sorry Kid,, forgot my manners,,,, WELCOME TO VR!!! Hope you find the place so inviting that checking in on a daily basis to watch (and participate in) the crazyness unfold becomes an addiction LOL!! Glad to have ya!!

Puc

[RedRider]

Welcome to the family and congratulations on a good buy.

 

You will quickly find there are several folks on here that really know their stuff. ^^Cowpuc^^ is one of them.

 

I learned something today. Guess I can go back to bed.

 

That is a great post.

 

RR

[skydoc_17]

Hey Burr,

Welcome to the forum! Great score on your "new to you" 83'VR! Many of us have found that the bigger the score money wise you make on these bikes, the more will need to be done to get them road worthy again. Keep in mind that as bad as the condition of the clutch fluid system is in, the braking system will be in the same condition as well. After purchasing many of these used bikes myself, I have found that the best way to proceed here is to change ALL of the fluids right off the bat. Then figure out which system is not functioning properly. (front right brake caliper, rear caliper and front left caliper, (these two calipers are linked) and the clutch system) The right front caliper has it's own master cylinder, located on the right side handlebar. The left front caliper and the rear caliper are linked to the rear master cylinder, located on the right rear of the bike, near the passenger floor board. The Clutch has a master cylinder on the left side handlebar, and a slave cylinder located on the left side of the engine behind the "middle gear cover", rearward of the stator cover. You will need to remove this middle gear cover to bleed the clutch, and replace or rebuild the clutch slave. There is a gasket on this cover that will need to be replaced, so don't forget to order one BEFORE you tear into the cover. Also, at the six o'clock position there is a cap screw that has a brass washer on it because this cap screw passes into the oil gallery of the engine, and the brass washer seals the cap screw. If this washer is missing, it needs to be replaced. Also make a note of the washer position and on reassembly, return the longer cap screw and washer to it's original position. Other fluids I would address would be the engine coolant, rear differential oil, engine oil, and front fork oil. I also like to install a new air filter, fuel filter and plugs in a new purchase just so I have a "baseline" for maintenance in the future. I also keep a written record of all parts I put on the bike, and any tricks, part numbers etc. I might need to remember.

Questions, parts? Feel free to PM me.

Earl

Edited September 22, 2017 by skydoc_17
CRAYON BROKE!

[CaseyJ955]

+1 for bleeding, and enough so to flush it completely out. If the reservoir is overfilled the clutch will not operate properly so when your done bleeding it make sure the level is right. In my experience it's rare to have to rebuild a hydraulic cylinder unless there is an external leak, but it does happen. Internal failure is possible if the service intervals were ignored in the past. Flush/bleed and maybe play with adjustment and see where you are. Even if the clutch itself is faulty it's not a terrible job to replace.

 

Congrats on your new scoot and welcome!

[bongobobny]

To just bleed the clutch system you do not have to remove the middle cover. There is a rubber boot on the top that can be removed to gain access to the slave cylinder bleeder screw. You DO have to remove the middle cover to replace the slave cylinder, though.

 

On both handlebar master cylinder reservoirs, there is a tiny hole at the bottom that can and will get clogged up with goop. This hole needs to be open as it is a pressure relief hole.

 

If the bike has been setting for an extended period of time you may discover that the old fluid has crystallized and you may need to disassemble pretty much everything, calipers, master cylinders, etc to get all of the crud out, just flushing the system may or may not get all the stuff out...

[Faroutkid]

If I were in your shoes and I had a pretty good idea that the previous owner didnt just refill a totally dry clutch system that he had discovered dry after the bike had sat for a long time here is where I would begin.

The high spot that I have discovered in the clutch system is where the clutch line bango's (or connects to) the master cylinder - the master cylinder is whats in front of the clutch lever..

I would pack the area under and around the master with rags and cover the scoot under the area cause hydraulic fluid is pretty nasty stuff, Now I would swivel the bars so the master is level, pull the cap and gently pull the clutch lever and gently release = wear saftey glasses until you get the hang of the system = a working master will spit in your eye.. You will see two hole in the bottom of the resevoir - the foward hole (as I recall) is the return hole and it is tiny.. Take a piece of wire out of a wire brush and poke thru it to make sure its not plugged. Not seeing much action = lay the cover back over the res, loosen the bango bolt that holds the line on - loosen it carefully and little at a time and squeeze the lever and see if you dont get air out of there.. Hold the lever at bottom against the bar and tighten the bango. What you are doing is bleeding the system from the master first = does that make sense? Now with the bango tightened back up slowly release the lever and repeat.. Checking for resistance on the lever as you bleed - do you know what I am saying by that statement?

If nothing comes out at the bango joint, make sure you are loosening the banjo bolt enough to get fluid past the crush washers.. If you are and it just wont respond (this happens about 50% of the time when I am dealing with a scoot with issues like you describe) you may have to completely remove the bango bolt - pull the line back away from the master and use your finger tip in the hole of the master to bleed against. Just raise the line up so the fluid dont leak out, or have someone help you by placing their finger tips over the holes in the line so it dont leak. Now hold your finger tip gently over the hole where the bango goes into the master. Now pump the master with the lever. It takes a little practice to feel air against your finger - you just have to lightly let the air escape until the master primes.. after you have done this a number of times it only takes a second to get the master to prime.. After its primed and your getting solid fluid against you finger and you cant stop the pressure as you squeeze the lever no matter how hard you try, reattach the line, bleed it off at the bango and tighten er up.. Good chance you will have a clutch..

 

Hope this helps!!

 

OPPSSSS, sorry Kid,, forgot my manners,,,, WELCOME TO VR!!! Hope you find the place so inviting that checking in on a daily basis to watch (and participate in) the crazyness unfold becomes an addiction LOL!! Glad to have ya!!

Puc

 

 

Your a genius. Undid where it takes the fluid and sends down the clutch. Put my finger and it gave me a bunch of fluid and the downer looked dry. So i put it back on. And walaaa. Pressure build up so now she doesnt jump.

[Faroutkid]

To just bleed the clutch system you do not have to remove the middle cover. There is a rubber boot on the top that can be removed to gain access to the slave cylinder bleeder screw. You DO have to remove the middle cover to replace the slave cylinder, though.

 

On both handlebar master cylinder reservoirs, there is a tiny hole at the bottom that can and will get clogged up with goop. This hole needs to be open as it is a pressure relief hole.

 

If the bike has been setting for an extended period of time you may discover that the old fluid has crystallized and you may need to disassemble pretty much everything, calipers, master cylinders, etc to get all of the crud out, just flushing the system may or may not get all the stuff out...

The little bleeder valve kindof behind a cover on the bottom left of the bike? Maybe mid up.. also where is the oil drain plug and oil fill plug?

[bongobobny]

Yes, the bleeder is under a rubber cover on top of where the middle cover goes about in the middle of the engine below the cylinder walls on the left side.

 

The oil drain plug is under the bike on the oil pan in the center. The oil fill cover is on the right side of the bike at the rear of the engine and has a raised flat piece used to unscrew the plug. It's about 1" or so in diameter. If you wish, I can take pictures for you...

[Faroutkid]

Yes, the bleeder is under a rubber cover on top of where the middle cover goes about in the middle of the engine below the cylinder walls on the left side.

 

The oil drain plug is under the bike on the oil pan in the center. The oil fill cover is on the right side of the bike at the rear of the engine and has a raised flat piece used to unscrew the plug. It's about 1" or so in diameter. If you wish, I can take pictures for you...

Found it, thankyou! Really appreciate it.. it came with a manual so i better start reading some things so i have a better idea.

[cowpuc]

Your a genius. Undid where it takes the fluid and sends down the clutch. Put my finger and it gave me a bunch of fluid and the downer looked dry. So i put it back on. And walaaa. Pressure build up so now she doesnt jump.

 

Glad it worked Kid:happy34:!!! Appreciate the kind words too but I gotta tell ya something,, I am more of a "keep trying things till something works, learn by doing" kind of guy:detective: than a genius..

Tell ya what though, there are a number of folks around here that really are genius's = hang around, get that bike goin, CTFW (stands for Chase The Front Wheel = good buddy of mine coined that phrase on here and it has stuck - his name is Yammer Dan) out to a VR get together or two and,, fact is,, you will probably get to meet some of those real deal genius men and women!!