I need to repaint my '84

[Oldseadog]

I have started slowly taking the plastic off for repairs. I am using a combination of Plastex, Acetone, and ABS glue. I've been fixing cracks, replacing tabs, and broken sections. Now I'm thinking of what I need to do prior to painting. Should i strip the paint completely, either chemically of by soda blasting, or should I feather the paint back where it's been removed scuff the rest and then paint? Should i put a sealer between the old paint and new? Do I need a adhesion promoter on the bare plastic? I'm still trying to decide whether to paint it myself, or do the prep, and have it painted by a paint shop. I have read a lot of posts where you've painted the bikes yourselves, and I like to think I could do the same, but I'm not sure. I want it repainted original colours, Maroon, and Red. I look forward to and appreciate all your comments. Thanks

 

Bill

[videoarizona]

Bill,

I haven't painted an entire panel but what I did do was easy. I sanded smooth, then painted with color, covered with clear. By not masking the blend areas of old and new, (thanks Jeff), the color went on nicely. The clear was not masked either. Took two tries on the sanding as I didn't get it smooth enough and it showed. So sanded off 1st attempt and did again.

 

Only mask areas where you need color separation and use the factory lines.

 

The only issue with paint is you need to take panel in and have local shop match. Colorite will not have proper color for our older bikes as the paint formulation used today gives wrong color for our older paints. At least it did with my 89. I ended up taking panel in and local shop made a small batch for me. The color matched perfectly... Despite the years of sun exposure. The advantage to matching!

 

I bought a tiny spray gun from Harbor Freight. Only held a couple of ounces, but that would be more than enough to do most if not all your panels one light coat. Light coats are better. Clean gun after every use! Follow paint shops instructions on temperature and time between coats.

 

Oh...I test sprayed using water on the wall of my house to set pattern and density of paint spray. Then didn't touch controls! Got a nice light spray without to much overspray.

 

If I can find my posts with pics and info I'll add to here. But you can find it faster as I'm out of town...

 

And yea.. You can do this. It was easy and fun. Prep is the key.

 

Found thread.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?119659-Doing-some-repairs-to-89&highlight=Painting

[slowrollwv]

As for the repairs of the plastic I have used Z bond. It works great on ABS plastic. Sand every thing you want to paint and feather into the bare surface then prime and sand. Then you can use a non sanding primer to seal before painting.

[Oldseadog]

Thanks David, I read through you link. Very nice. I just may try painting the bike myself, just not sure about the two different colours, and the masking involved. I do have an HVLP turbine sprayer from HF, that I use to spray clear on my woodworking projects. Charles, thanks for mentioning Z Bond, it reminded me I need to look at some sort of bondo/ filler to cover any(all) imperfections. Is Z Bond a chaulking? I haven't seen it up here on the west coast of Canada. Can anyone recommend a good filler for plastic?

[turtle]

You should always use a plastic adhesion promoter over any bare plastic I prime and sand till I see no raw plastic when I finish sanding . On plastic never try to use anything coarser then 180 grit and not to skip to too high of grit. 180, 220 ,320 400 600 . this type of plastic if you get warm it releases oils from the plastic and get smeary if it does you need to start over. again I can not stress the use of adhesion promoter and time you coat anything raw.

[slowrollwv]

Thanks David, I read through you link. Very nice. I just may try painting the bike myself, just not sure about the two different colours, and the masking involved. I do have an HVLP turbine sprayer from HF, that I use to spray clear on my woodworking projects. Charles, thanks for mentioning Z Bond, it reminded me I need to look at some sort of bondo/ filler to cover any(all) imperfections. Is Z Bond a chaulking? I haven't seen it up here on the west coast of Canada. Can anyone recommend a good filler for plastic?

 

Zbond is a two part adhesive. It is a strong super glue and ABS plastic dust. We get it at Auto zone and Advanced Auto.

[Dragonslayer]

I have started slowly taking the plastic off for repairs. I am using a combination of Plastex, Acetone, and ABS glue. I've been fixing cracks, replacing tabs, and broken sections. Now I'm thinking of what I need to do prior to painting. Should i strip the paint completely, either chemically of by soda blasting, or should I feather the paint back where it's been removed scuff the rest and then paint? Should i put a sealer between the old paint and new? Do I need a adhesion promoter on the bare plastic? I'm still trying to decide whether to paint it myself, or do the prep, and have it painted by a paint shop. I have read a lot of posts where you've painted the bikes yourselves, and I like to think I could do the same, but I'm not sure. I want it repainted original colours, Maroon, and Red. I look forward to and appreciate all your comments. Thanks

 

Bill

It's a lot of work and after doing about five total trial and error paint jobs the last time I ended up taking the removed pre prepped pieces to a shop to spray.

Even then they had to do several of the pieces several times before it was right. Unless painting is really your passion I suggest letting a trusted pro do it. You can save money by doing as much of the disassembly and prep work as possible.

[Oldseadog]

It's a lot of work and after doing about five total trial and error paint jobs the last time I ended up taking the removed pre prepped pieces to a shop to spray.

Even then they had to do several of the pieces several times before it was right. Unless painting is really your passion I suggest letting a trusted pro do it. You can save money by doing as much of the disassembly and prep work as possible.

 

I know it is a lot of work and my wife is in agreement with you. She says a shop would do a better job than i can. I am thinking I may do all the primer and blocking prior to having a shop paint it. I do have access to a spray booth, so that is one option, and may be the way I go. So, does anyone have a recommendation for a high build primer?

[videoarizona]

Primer? Let the paint shop give you their recommendation, if you are going to use them....

[CMCOFFEY]

after I patch up all my plastics and decide on a color, I will be using Plasti dip for all the plastics. It is easy to use and I can change colors every few years.

[Dragonslayer]

I know it is a lot of work and my wife is in agreement with you. She says a shop would do a better job than i can. I am thinking I may do all the primer and blocking prior to having a shop paint it. I do have access to a spray booth, so that is one option, and may be the way I go. So, does anyone have a recommendation for a high build primer?

 

Having access to a spray booth where you can control the environment of the paint process is key. I didn't have that so was trying to turn out product in the garage and using well water for washing that has a lot of mineral deposits. I just couldn't get it right. If you are doing the prep which is the most labor intensive part of the job you can control to quality of the surface to your satisfaction and reduce the cost significantly.

 

Besides the cost of the materials which are expensive if the prep work is done right and the painter knows what he is doing setting up for spray the labor to spray should be nominal.

But , they will charge what they think you are willing to pay. Last time shop quoted $300 to spray 3 pieces. We settled for $150. I thought that was too much.

[kevin-vic-b.c.]

Cannot wait to see it all back to new. Need to do coffee.

[Oldseadog]

Need to do coffee.

 

Yes! Time and place?