RSV Repaired Rear Shock 2000 Mile Update

[dfitzbiz]

I would like to thank DaNetFlunky, thanks Mark, and Rbig1, thanks Rodney, for sending me their leaking shocks to work with. I disassembled both units, visually inspected them for damage, cleaned the internal surfaces, replaced the leaking o ring and recharged them with fresh shock oil. I tested each unit with 40lb. of air pressure for a couple to day to insure there was no oil or air leaks. I did notice some variation in air pressure, both up and down, and discovered it was from changing temperatures in my garage.

 

I experimented with a few types of oil looking for the best results. I used 5w Honda Shock Oil, 10w Honda Shock Oil and 15w Spectro Fork Oil. I found the best results using the 10w Honda Shock Oil. The response/rebound from the 5w seemed to fast and from the 15w to slow. A special note here: Not all of the original oil us removed from the unit during the repair process. Some oil is retained in the oil friction shock itself. Only the oil in the reservoir can be removed and replaced. I cycled the shock through several strokes and replaced the oil again to dilute the old oil as much as possible.

 

The oil that I removed from each unit was thin, appeared dirty and was black in color. I don’t believe that it was installed in the shock in this condition. I can only guess that it was effected by wear, being forced through the shock and from heat. It could be possible that the deteriorated oil causes the o ring to break down and leak. I’m thinking about changing the oil in my shock, at 20K miles, that has not begun to leak as preventive maintenance. More about this later.

 

After repair of the first unit I mounted it on my ’03 RSV and put on just over 1000 miles riding one up on a mixture of highway and secondary roads. Performance was similar to the stock shock. My wife and I attended the WNY Rally riding 2 up with a full load of gear. The performance was good and it survived 500 miles of mountain 2 lane, main roads and super highways at max load plus some. Added another 200 miles that weekend of 2 up and another 300 miles of one up since returning. A total of 2000 miles with no issues. I mounted unit number 2 on my RSV last week and with 250 miles the results are the same.

 

Now, back to changing the oil in your shock. This is easier that you might think. You may want to do this a couple of time to get as much old oil out of the system as possible. Once you are set up it’s pretty easy.

The tools required are:

 

1. A valve stem tool to remove the air valve stem.
   
2. An open end wrench to remove the air hose at the shock body. (10mm I think.)
   
3. A measuring cup to catch the oil.
   
4. A shop press or some way to compress the shock.
   

Here is how to remove the old oil:

 

1. Remove the valve stem to relieve the air pressure in the unit.
   
2. Remove the air hose at the shock body.
   
3. Drain the old oil from the unit via the air inlet
   
4. Catch and measure the oil so you know how much to replace.
   
5. Use as narrow of a measuring cup as possible (more on this below).
   

To replace the oil:

 

1. Remove the rubber accordion boot from the bottom of the unit (so it won’t be damaged in the press---don’t ask how I know this.)
   
2. Reinstall the air hose with the valve stem removed.
   
3. Discard the old oil noting how much was removed.
   
4. Fill the measuring cup, the narrower the better, with fresh oil (as much as was removed)
   
5. Compress the unit in the shop press, top end up. (edit) Support the shock by the clevis not the shock body to avoid pressing the shaft out of the bottom.
   
6. Caution: Allow at least 1.5” of the bottom canister exposed. Compressing beyond that point may cause the internal shock to push the o ring beyond the housing (once again, don’t ask how I know this.)
   
7. Place the end of the air hose in the oil and slowly release the shop press. The suction will pull the oil into the unit. Be patient, this may take a couple of minutes.
   
8. Replace the valve stem.
   
9. Cycle the unit a couple of times.
   
10. Caution: Allow at least 1.5” of the bottom canister exposed. Compressing beyond that point may cause the internal shock to push the o ring beyond the housing.
    
11. Replace the rubber boot, mount the shock and ride.
    

 

Thanks to the generosity of Mark and Rodney we now have a unit that I can exchange with any paid forum member. I’m not looking to make any money on this project but I will have some expenses such as parts, supplies, shipping and handling. This repair will work best with a shock that is leaking and has not yet begun to “pogo stick”. Keep an eye out for the tell-tale drops of oil under your RSV and I can get a unit on the way to you so we can limit your down time. PM me for details.

RIDE SAFE,

Fitz

Edited February 22, 2018 by dfitzbiz
Edited: To Replace the oil: #5 "Support by clevis"

[BratmanXj]

This repair will work best with a shock that is leaking and has not yet begun to “pogo stick”

Fitz

 

I'd assume once the Pogo has begun the internals have been damaged beyond "external" repair?

 

I purchased my bike with a damaged rear shock and did a 20w recharge to finish out the riding season. While it helped the bike was still a bit tail-happy until I put her up for winter repairs with a Haggon shock.

[dfitzbiz]

I'd assume once the Pogo has begun the internals have been damaged beyond "external" repair?

 

I purchased my bike with a damaged rear shock and did a 20w recharge to finish out the riding season. While it helped the bike was still a bit tail-happy until I put her up for winter repairs with a Haggon shock.

 

It may have damaged the oil friction shock inside but we could give it a try. 20w seems a little heavy to me. Might be slowing the rebound and making things to stiff causing tail-happiness. I don't know, just a guess. Was the shock leaking when you received the bike? How much 20w did you put in? Did it stay in or did it continue to leak? If you want to take a shot at a repair send me a PM. It will cost you a little freight, a bottle of oil and an o ring. This will be another learning experience if nothing else.

[BratmanXj]

It may have damaged the oil friction shock inside but we could give it a try. 20w seems a little heavy to me. Might be slowing the rebound and making things to stiff causing tail-happiness. I don't know, just a guess. Was the shock leaking when you received the bike? How much 20w did you put in? Did it stay in or did it continue to leak? If you want to take a shot at a repair send me a PM. It will cost you a little freight, a bottle of oil and an o ring. This will be another learning experience if nothing else.

 

I went Hagon and it's sitting in the "spare parts" bucket, so it was really just and FYI question.

 

Was not leaking when I purchased the bike but definitely worn out and pogo-stick ride. Bike is a '99 and I purchases with 40k+miles, otherwise very well maintained bike. I had 20w on hand from my previous Harley shock rebuilds and only had the bike for 2 mo. with the "repaired" shock before I went to the Hagon. It was still loose and pogo'd even with 20w.

[dfitzbiz]

I went Hagon and it's sitting in the "spare parts" bucket, so it was really just and FYI question.

 

Was not leaking when I purchased the bike but definitely worn out and pogo-stick ride. Bike is a '99 and I purchases with 40k+miles, otherwise very well maintained bike. I had 20w on hand from my previous Harley shock rebuilds and only had the bike for 2 mo. with the "repaired" shock before I went to the Hagon. It was still loose and pogo'd even with 20w.

 

Sounds like that one is to far gone. Enjoy your Venture.

[rbig1]

this sounds great. hope it works out to save some cash for someone. was wondering how it was going.

[k9cottage]

i striped mine down today replaced the o ring cleaned it all and put it back together i did use 15 fork oil as i have a sidecar and wanted it a bit stiffer. when i put it back on the bike i jumped up and down on the pillion foot boards and it started to pogo for three bounces then the system bled itself and it stiffened up tis sitting now with 50psi feels perfect and can't wait to test it . a big thanks to dfitzbiz for figuring this out .

[WIZ]

I have a repaired shock from Dave on my bike, because of rain and temps I only have about 500 miles on it, but so far I like the ride and handling better than the hagon shock I had on my bike. Thanks Dave

[k9cottage]

i have about 2000ks on mine now and it is perfect thanks dave

[dfitzbiz]

Thanks to WIZ and K9kottage for the accolades. Glad the repairs are working out for you. I have a repaired unit to exchange for any paid member that would like to trade out a leaker. Just pay the round trip freight. Looking forward to helping out our members.

Ride smooth,

Fitz

[YamahaLarry]

Thanks to WIZ and K9kottage for the accolades. Glad the repairs are working out for you. I have a repaired unit to exchange for any paid member that would like to trade out a leaker. Just pay the round trip freight. Looking forward to helping out our members.

Ride smooth,

Fitz

 

Dang. You're a year late. Purchased a new OEM rear shock this time last year to replace my old bouncy one once it was getting dangerous to ride. Held onto the old shock for a few months and finally tossed it this spring.

 

Nice to know that this is possible for future reference. Those rear shocks aren't cheap.

[dfitzbiz]

Dang. You're a year late. Purchased a new OEM rear shock this time last year to replace my old bouncy one once it was getting dangerous to ride. Held onto the old shock for a few months and finally tossed it this spring. Nice to know that this is possible for future reference. Those rear shocks aren't cheap.

I'm here for you Brothers (and Sisters)!!

[Chowsky]

I'm here for you Brothers (and Sisters)!!

Dave agreed to repair the rear shock from my 2006 RSTD. It had gotten very sloppy to ride with loose feel to rear and bottoming out pretty easily, as well as leaking oil for several months. After receipt and installation, I took it for a ride and was not sure it was the same bike! It felt very tight and responsive. There have been no further leaks. I borrowed a hand pump to adjust the air pressure. I put about 40 psi in the rear and 5 in the front shocks, as I was anticipating having my wife ride with me. I did not like the feel of the bike with the additional air in front shocks and took it out. I may drop the pressure a little in rear after she gets back to riding her bike again.

I did the work from a harbor freight bike lift (the big one). I put floor jack on one side ahead of shock and scissor jack on other side and brought bike up to where tire was barely touching. The bottom bolt is a piece of cake, but the upper bolt is a pain! I removed passenger floor boards and the plastic panels behind them and was able to loosen up the nut on top with extension with knuckle on end. Use of a board under tire allowed you to take pressure off bolt to work it out. There is an overflow tube on shock, in addition to air line. Try to figure out where the overflow tube is attached - when I pulled shock out, it came out but I had no idea where it attaches. Reinstallation of the upper bolt and nut are tricky if you have big hands, because the opening made by removal of the plastic panels is too small for my hands to fit easily.

Anyway, hope this is helpful to others that may be considering work on rear shock. Many thanks to Dave for saving me big bucks over the cost of a replacement shock or aftermarket shock.

Everyone ride safe,

Charles

[cnljr52]

I would like to thank DaNetFlunky, thanks Mark, and Rbig1, thanks Rodney, for sending me their leaking shocks to work with. I disassembled both units, visually inspected them for damage, cleaned the internal surfaces, replaced the leaking o ring and recharged them with fresh shock oil. I tested each unit with 40lb. of air pressure for a couple to day to insure there was no oil or air leaks. I did notice some variation in air pressure, both up and down, and discovered it was from changing temperatures in my garage.

 

I experimented with a few types of oil looking for the best results. I used 5w Honda Shock Oil, 10w Honda Shock Oil and 15w Spectro Fork Oil. I found the best results using the 10w Honda Shock Oil. The response/rebound from the 5w seemed to fast and from the 15w to slow. A special note here: Not all of the original oil us removed from the unit during the repair process. Some oil is retained in the oil friction shock itself. Only the oil in the reservoir can be removed and replaced. I cycled the shock through several strokes and replaced the oil again to dilute the old oil as much as possible.

 

The oil that I removed from each unit was thin, appeared dirty and was black in color. I don’t believe that it was installed in the shock in this condition. I can only guess that it was effected by wear, being forced through the shock and from heat. It could be possible that the deteriorated oil causes the o ring to break down and leak. I’m thinking about changing the oil in my shock, at 20K miles, that has not begun to leak as preventive maintenance. More about this later.

 

After repair of the first unit I mounted it on my ’03 RSV and put on just over 1000 miles riding one up on a mixture of highway and secondary roads. Performance was similar to the stock shock. My wife and I attended the WNY Rally riding 2 up with a full load of gear. The performance was good and it survived 500 miles of mountain 2 lane, main roads and super highways at max load plus some. Added another 200 miles that weekend of 2 up and another 300 miles of one up since returning. A total of 2000 miles with no issues. I mounted unit number 2 on my RSV last week and with 250 miles the results are the same.

 

Now, back to changing the oil in your shock. This is easier that you might think. You may want to do this a couple of time to get as much old oil out of the system as possible. Once you are set up it’s pretty easy.

The tools required are:

 

1. A valve stem tool to remove the air valve stem.
   
2. An open end wrench to remove the air hose at the shock body. (10mm I think.)
   
3. A measuring cup to catch the oil.
   
4. A shop press or some way to compress the shock.
   

Here is how to remove the old oil:

 

1. Remove the valve stem to relieve the air pressure in the unit.
   
2. Remove the air hose at the shock body.
   
3. Drain the old oil from the unit via the air inlet
   
4. Catch and measure the oil so you know how much to replace.
   
5. Use as narrow of a measuring cup as possible (more on this below).
   

To replace the oil:

 

1. Remove the rubber accordion boot from the bottom of the unit (so it won’t be damaged in the press---don’t ask how I know this.)
   
2. Reinstall the air hose with the valve stem removed.
   
3. Discard the old oil noting how much was removed.
   
4. Fill the measuring cup, the narrower the better, with fresh oil (as much as was removed)
   
5. Compress the unit in the shop press, top end up.
   
6. Caution: Allow at least 1.5” of the bottom canister exposed. Compressing beyond that point may cause the internal shock to push the o ring beyond the housing (once again, don’t ask how I know this.)
   
7. Place the end of the air hose in the oil and slowly release the shop press. The suction will pull the oil into the unit. Be patient, this may take a couple of minutes.
   
8. Replace the valve stem.
   
9. Cycle the unit a couple of times.
   
10. Caution: Allow at least 1.5” of the bottom canister exposed. Compressing beyond that point may cause the internal shock to push the o ring beyond the housing.
    
11. Replace the rubber boot, mount the shock and ride.
    

 

Thanks to the generosity of Mark and Rodney we now have a unit that I can exchange with any paid forum member. I’m not looking to make any money on this project but I will have some expenses such as parts, supplies, shipping and handling. This repair will work best with a shock that is leaking and has not yet begun to “pogo stick”. Keep an eye out for the tell-tale drops of oil under your RSV and I can get a unit on the way to you so we can limit your down time. PM me for details.

RIDE SAFE,

Fitz

 

Hi Fitz. I have a 99rsv and shock started leaking last fall. was fixing to purchase a new one this spring. Just read your article and I'm very interested. How much for an exchange? Almost had a heart attack when I saw price of new ones. And the Yamaha's aren't even guaranteed> At least the Hagons are. Thanks for you time. Chuck (cnljr52)

[dfitzbiz]

Dave agreed to repair the rear shock from my 2006 RSTD. It had gotten very sloppy to ride with loose feel to rear and bottoming out pretty easily, as well as leaking oil for several months. After receipt and installation, I took it for a ride and was not sure it was the same bike! It felt very tight and responsive. There have been no further leaks. I borrowed a hand pump to adjust the air pressure. I put about 40 psi in the rear and 5 in the front shocks, as I was anticipating having my wife ride with me. I did not like the feel of the bike with the additional air in front shocks and took it out. I may drop the pressure a little in rear after she gets back to riding her bike again.

I did the work from a harbor freight bike lift (the big one). I put floor jack on one side ahead of shock and scissor jack on other side and brought bike up to where tire was barely touching. The bottom bolt is a piece of cake, but the upper bolt is a pain! I removed passenger floor boards and the plastic panels behind them and was able to loosen up the nut on top with extension with knuckle on end. Use of a board under tire allowed you to take pressure off bolt to work it out. There is an overflow tube on shock, in addition to air line. Try to figure out where the overflow tube is attached - when I pulled shock out, it came out but I had no idea where it attaches. Reinstallation of the upper bolt and nut are tricky if you have big hands, because the opening made by removal of the plastic panels is too small for my hands to fit easily.

Anyway, hope this is helpful to others that may be considering work on rear shock. Many thanks to Dave for saving me big bucks over the cost of a replacement shock or aftermarket shock.

Everyone ride safe,

Charles

 

Charles, thanks for the good review. Happy to hear the repair is working for you. 40psi in the rear and 5psi in the front seems like a lot to me but ride is a personal preference. I use about 15psi in the rear shock when riding solo (25psi two up) and 1psi in the forks and I'm a pretty big guy.

 

I feel your pain when removing/reinstalling the shock. With the testing I have done I've removed and reinstalled more than a dozen times in the past 9 months. The best method I have found is to lift the bike on a lift adapter like the one CarbonOne provides until the back wheel just leaves the ground by about 1/4 inch. You should have enough play in the jack and suspension to bounce the rear tire to relieve pressure on the bolts as required. Remove the Passenger Floor Boards and the side covers. It can be frustrating attempting to get the top bolt in place. I replace the bottom bolt first and use a line-up punch in the top hole, FROM THE LEFT SIDE, using the jack to move the frame up or down as required for alignment. I insert the top bolt from the right side using a socket and swivel. Sometimes it takes the dexterity of Houdini to get it in.

 

I'm not sure where the vent hose from the rubber boot attaches. There is a clip that snaps onto a frame member or a cable, I just don't know which one. I guess just pick one that will keep it from falling into a pinch point or the tire.

 

Ride smooth and leak free,

Fitz

[dfitzbiz]

Hi Fitz. I have a 99rsv and shock started leaking last fall. was fixing to purchase a new one this spring. Just read your article and I'm very interested. How much for an exchange? Almost had a heart attack when I saw price of new ones. And the Yamaha's aren't even guaranteed> At least the Hagons are. Thanks for you time. Chuck (cnljr52)

 

Chuck, NO HEART ATTACKS ALLOWED ON THE VENTURERIDER FORUM!!! I sent you a PM and I have a repaired shock in stock. Get back to me. Fitz

[Chowsky]

Wife rode her bike first time since surgery on arm, so I suspect I will be riding solo going forward. I think I will reduce pressure in rear shock to around 15 - 20 psi. thanks!

[bongobobny]

That might be a little light there unless you like really mushy suspension. I would try around 30 - 35 for solo but to each their own...

[dfitzbiz]

Dave agreed to repair the rear shock from my 2006 RSTD. It had gotten very sloppy to ride with loose feel to rear and bottoming out pretty easily, as well as leaking oil for several months. After receipt and installation, I took it for a ride and was not sure it was the same bike! It felt very tight and responsive. There have been no further leaks. I borrowed a hand pump to adjust the air pressure. I put about 40 psi in the rear and 5 in the front shocks, as I was anticipating having my wife ride with me. I did not like the feel of the bike with the additional air in front shocks and took it out. I may drop the pressure a little in rear after she gets back to riding her bike again.

I did the work from a harbor freight bike lift (the big one). I put floor jack on one side ahead of shock and scissor jack on other side and brought bike up to where tire was barely touching. The bottom bolt is a piece of cake, but the upper bolt is a pain! I removed passenger floor boards and the plastic panels behind them and was able to loosen up the nut on top with extension with knuckle on end. Use of a board under tire allowed you to take pressure off bolt to work it out. There is an overflow tube on shock, in addition to air line. Try to figure out where the overflow tube is attached - when I pulled shock out, it came out but I had no idea where it attaches. Reinstallation of the upper bolt and nut are tricky if you have big hands, because the opening made by removal of the plastic panels is too small for my hands to fit easily.

Anyway, hope this is helpful to others that may be considering work on rear shock. Many thanks to Dave for saving me big bucks over the cost of a replacement shock or aftermarket shock.

Everyone ride safe,

Charles

 

Charles, I made a donation to the Venturerider Forum this morning with the funds left over from the money order you sent for your shock repair. I couldn't make the donation in your name but you deserve the credit. I'm sure it will be appreciated by all.

Ride smooth and leak free,

Fitz

[Chowsky]

Very kind of you to make a donation to the site! I owe you a cold beverage of your choice should we have the chance to meet in person!

Ride safe,

Charles

[XV1100SE]

That might be a little light there unless you like really mushy suspension. I would try around 30 - 35 for solo but to each their own...

 

For the rear shock I tend to go with the "14%" rule. Maximum load capacity of the bike is 419 lbs. Max rear shock pressure is 57 psi - 419/57 = 7.4 (which is 14%)

 

My weight 200 lbs x 7.4 = 27 psi for the rear shock - for a softer ride I'll go with 22-24 psi

 

Add my wife...total 310 lbs / 7.4 = 42 psi - for a softer ride I usually go with 32-34 psi

 

When I was pulling the tent trailer I had (2 up) 310 + 36 lbs tongue weight, plus additional weight in the saddles and trunk.... = roughly 355-365 lbs... / 7.4 = 48 to 50 psi

 

For the front I usually ride at about 3 psi.

 

Might not work for everyone but for me this works out pretty well.

 

Tires come into play with shocks...I ride 36-38 psi front, 40 psi rear.

[dfitzbiz]

For the rear shock I tend to go with the "14%" rule. Maximum load capacity of the bike is 419 lbs. Max rear shock pressure is 57 psi - 419/57 = 7.4 (which is 14%)

 

My weight 200 lbs x 7.4 = 27 psi for the rear shock - for a softer ride I'll go with 22-24 psi

 

Add my wife...total 310 lbs / 7.4 = 42 psi - for a softer ride I usually go with 32-34 psi

 

When I was pulling the tent trailer I had (2 up) 310 + 36 lbs tongue weight, plus additional weight in the saddles and trunk.... = roughly 355-365 lbs... / 7.4 = 48 to 50 psi

 

For the front I usually ride at about 3 psi.

 

Might not work for everyone but for me this works out pretty well.

 

Tires come into play with shocks...I ride 36-38 psi front, 40 psi rear.

Hey Don,

I like your numbers, your formula is just a bit off. 419 max load and a max pressure of 57 psi gives you a ratio of 7.4:1 or 7.4 pounds of load for each psi of air. Your formula should be the load in pounds divided by 7.4. You got the right answer 200 lb load/7.4=27psi.

Ride on Brother,

See you in Ontario,

Fitz

[Old Man]

My rear shock is leaking alittle oil can this be repaired.

[Freebird]

Yes it can. Read the first post in this thread.

[CtRiderRSV]

Add me to the list of happy Fitz customers!