clutch leaked fluid, Help

[Wingzz]

I was given a 83 Venture VXZ1200 and it has two issues, first is the clutch has no fluid in it, looks like it had a leak and thats where I'm getting stumped, I cant find where the hose goes after it goes into the handlebars, where does it connect the the actual clutch? and suggestions as to what may have caused the leak?

The second issue is the rear brakes went out on the bike (hence the reason the original owner parked it 7 years ago) after digging into it I found the rear master cylinder has frozen up, I think it is easiest if I just replace it, any suggestions on acquiring a rear master cylinder and reservoir as the screws are frozen on the reservoir, or maybe just replacement screws and I can drill the screws out.

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions

Mike

[BlueSky]

The most likely leak point in the clutch is the slave cylinder. Most of us have had that problem with leaking slave cylinders. Rebuild kits are available as well as for not much more money new slave cylinders. You should be able to find a used rear brake master cylinder on ebay or from a forum member. I buy parts from partzilla.com mostly.

[videoarizona]

The clutch line goes down the handlebars and under the bike. Transfers to a metal line then to the clutch slave cylinder on left side of motor... In between the stator cover (big) and the drive cover (small). Your left shin is about right where the slave is if sitting on bike.

 

Probably be a good idea to rebuild or get used master and slave. And flush out system. Lots to read on this site, with pictures too. Plus manuals. Look in tech section, 1st generation....

 

Agree with replacing master rear brake parts. If frozen, they aren't worth time to rebuild. Cheap enough. Flush rear brake system too, but remember, the rear break master also feeds the left front brake.

Again, better parts available to replace original.

Edited September 11, 2017 by videoarizona
Re-read post...

[Wingzz]

Any suggestions as to where I might find a new or rebuilt slave?? also the rear brake master cyl? If I can get something newer to replace them I would rather go that route

 

 

The clutch line goes down the handlebars and under the bike. Transfers to a metal line then to the clutch slave cylinder on left side of motor... In between the stator cover (big) and the drive cover (small). Your left shin is about right where the slave is if sitting on bike.

 

Probably be a good idea to rebuild or get used master and slave. And flush out system. Lots to read on this site, with pictures too. Plus manuals. Look in tech section, 1st generation....

 

Agree with replacing master rear brake parts. If frozen, they aren't worth time to rebuild. Cheap enough. Flush rear brake system too, but remember, the rear break master also feeds the left front brake.

Again, better parts available to replace original.

[gaj1917]

Any suggestions as to where I might find a new or rebuilt slave?? also the rear brake master cyl? If I can get something newer to replace them I would rather go that route

 

There are a number of Yamaha parts suppliers online. I use PartShark most often. I see they have new clutch slave cylinders for $81. Also, rear bake master rebuild kits.

 

[BlueSky]

Don't waste your time and money by buying a used clutch slave cylinder. Either rebuild it or buy new. Most members recommend buying a new one because if the cylinder is pitted inside, it will leak after new seals are installed.

[videoarizona]

Don't waste your time and money by buying a used clutch slave cylinder. Either rebuild it or buy new. Most members recommend buying a new one because if the cylinder is pitted inside, it will leak after new seals are installed.

 

 

[skydoc_17]

Hey Mike,

There are a few other things to take into account because of the way that the braking system is set up on your 83'VR. First off, it is an excellent idea to purchase a NEW Clutch Slave Cylinder to replace your slave. The chances of your old slave being rebuildable after 34 years are pretty slim. Also the new slave will basically be "plug and play". Remove the old slave, install the new slave, and you will be done. Keep in mind that you will need a new Middle Gear Cover Gasket which needs to be removed to get to the old slave. Now, about that rear master cylinder. If the rear master is not working, that means that not only is your rear brake not working, BUT your left front caliper is not working as well because the rear caliper and the left front caliper are linked together! At this point, you are stopping your 800 pound motorcycle with your right front caliper ONLY! Since you are considering replacing the rear master with a new one, I would highly suggest that you replace the 1983 to 1985 MKI rear master with the 1986 to 1993 MKII Rear Master Cylinder. The outside valve body on both of these cylinders is the exact same, so mounting the new MKII master will not be a problem, and the MKII master has a larger bore, and rebuild kit are still available from Yamaha. The added braking force is an added bonus as well. If this were my bike, I would replace the slave, replace the rear master with the MKII master, Rebuild the rear, left front, and right front calipers, and install new pads on all three calipers. These bikes are fast and powerful Mike, but it doesn't do much good to go fast, if you can't get the bike to STOP once all of the going fast fun is over with. There are other upgrades available for the braking system on this motorcycle, if you are interested, please feel free to PM me.

Either way you decide to go here Mike, good luck with this project, and congrats on your "new to you" 83'VR!

Earl

[Condor]

You are saying the clutch leaks and you can't find the leak... Gotta ask.. Are you just assuming it leaks or have you bled the system, put in fresh fluid, and then it leaked?? The reason the reserve is empty could be for several reasons, and nothing more than a leaking bleeder valve or a crush washer at the banjos... However, if you do have to get into rebuild mode all the suggestions about buying a new slave are right on... Don't even screw with the old one. If you do get to that point give me a shout and I'll give you a few pointers on removing the slave. Sometimes it can be troubling... :-)

[Wingzz]

wow I am amazed and thankful for all the support on this forum, I found out how hard it is to get the slave off, broke an allen wrench trying and stopped, any tips you can provide would be greatly appreciated

 

Also any tips on getting the final gear case oil fill plug out, mine is really frozen in

 

Condor: I received the bike and the clutch is dry so I assumed it leaked, I would think after sitting dry for who knows how long the seals are gone??

 

Skydoc Thanks for the tips on the brakes, I will pm you as I get further into this to discuss the brakes a bit more

 

Thanks again to everyone for all the tips and suggestions, I'm glad I found this group

[Condor]

 

Condor: I received the bike and the clutch is dry so I assumed it leaked, I would think after sitting dry for who knows how long the seals are gone??

 

Skydoc Thanks for the tips on the brakes, I will pm you as I get further into this to discuss the brakes a bit more

 

Thanks again to everyone for all the tips and suggestions, I'm glad I found this group

Here's a thought... Perhaps the P.O. couldn't figure out what was wrong with the brakes, threw up his hands and walked away, and the main reason it's empty and been sitting so long... Maybe??

[Wingzz]

Of course that is another possibility

 

Here's a thought... Perhaps the P.O. couldn't figure out what was wrong with the brakes, threw up his hands and walked away, and the main reason it's empty and been sitting so long... Maybe??

[Wingzz]

hello again, still can not get the clutch slave cyl out, the bolts are frozen, but while looking into this more I found the clutch master cyl may be messed up, first off I pulled the lever off and the little piston only moves about 1/4 of an inch if that, is that the normal stroke of the plunger? it seems it should move more than that?

Second part today is how does one get the assembly #2 in the picture out to rebuild it

http://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004247ef8700209bc787e4b/front-master-cylinder-2.

Also when I tried to reverse bleed the clutch I get no fluid movement, nothing I do will get fluid to pump back into the master cyl from the bleed screw, could this be the front master cyl being frozen?

 

Also still fighting with the rear brakes, rebuilt the rear master cyl and I get fluid out if I pump it with no hoses on it, but I never get any fluid out the the calipers, I rebuilt the rear caliper, still no fluid, even bought a vac pump and not having any luck getting fluid to the rear caliper

[Wingzz]

well as an update to the clutch, I found the last 6" piece of line was plugged, luckily I have a replacement, so now I am able to pull the lever and feel like I have a clutch, but I tried and start the engine and pulling in the clutch doesnt disengage the engine/trans, in other words the back wheel spins, could this be that I need to bleed it more or possibly a different issue?

[videoarizona]

The back tire will spin a bit if it's off the ground. Simple check... Stomp on rear brake while in gear and running. If motor dies.. Clutch is still engaged. If it's a partial engagement, two possibilities. The system still needs to be bled again, and or the slave needs help...

 

To get the master cylinder apart, there is a c clip holding all the parts in. Squeeze that and the parts come out. Gently remove the lever, pin, rubber boot and the c clip is down inside the mc. You may have to clean to see it.

 

Reminder, the rear master controls the left front and rear brake.

Edited September 24, 2017 by videoarizona
clarify

[Wingzz]

The back tire will spin a bit if it's off the ground. Simple check... Stomp on rear brake while in gear and running. If motor dies.. Clutch is still engaged. If it's a partial engagement, two possibilities. The system still needs to be bled again, and or the slave needs help...

 

To get the master cylinder apart, there is a c clip holding all the parts in. Squeeze that and the parts come out. Gently remove the lever, pin, rubber boot and the c clip is down inside the mc. You may have to clean to see it.

 

Reminder, the rear master controls the left front and rear brake.

 

Thank you, got it apart and cleaned up, it is functioning now, still need to bleed the rest of the air out I think, or should I say hope, I really dont want to fight to get that slave cyl off.

 

I'll try to brake thing as soon as I can get the rear brakes working