screaming red Posted April 22, 2008 #1 Posted April 22, 2008 Having my front tire replaced on my 99 venture by the dealer and reinstalling myself. Can anyone let me know what the torque specs are for the rotors and shaft. Screaming Red
gibvel Posted April 22, 2008 #2 Posted April 22, 2008 Shouldn't need the torque specs for the rotor. You shouldn't have to take them off. The shaft, I believe, is 75 ftlbs. I'll check that. Okay, the axel is 56 ftlbs (78Nm) The axle pinch bolt is 13 Ftlbs (19Nm) The front rotors are 17 Ftlbs (23Nm) the front caliper bolts are 18 Ftlbs (25Nm). Maybe you meant the front Caliper bolts instead of the front Rotor bolts. Either way, there you have it. The front Rotors bolts are put on using loctite so you may have a time getting them out, if you're taking off the rotors. There's a good chance you may strip out some of the socket caps in doing so also. Heat gun or torch may help. Hope this helps.
KeithR Posted April 22, 2008 #3 Posted April 22, 2008 When I had my front tire done at the dealer they had to remove the rotors after they told me they didn't...charged me extra! Does this help
gibvel Posted April 22, 2008 #4 Posted April 22, 2008 Was trying to post that very photo Keith. Computer wasn't up to the task though. Thanks!!
screaming red Posted April 22, 2008 Author #5 Posted April 22, 2008 Shouldn't need the torque specs for the rotor. You shouldn't have to take them off. The shaft, I believe, is 75 ftlbs. I'll check that. Okay, the axel is 56 ftlbs (78Nm) The axle pinch bolt is 13 Ftlbs (19Nm) The front rotors are 17 Ftlbs (23Nm) the front caliper bolts are 18 Ftlbs (25Nm). Maybe you meant the front Caliper bolts instead of the front Rotor bolts. Either way, there you have it. The front Rotors bolts are put on using loctite so you may have a time getting them out, if you're taking off the rotors. There's a good chance you may strip out some of the socket caps in doing so also. Heat gun or torch may help. Hope this helps. Thank you very much, I removed the dust covers of my front wheel never a big fan of them but you need to remove the rotor bolts and wasn't sure about the spec. Screaming Red:bighug:
BuddyRich Posted April 22, 2008 #6 Posted April 22, 2008 Watch it putting the rotors back on. They should be tightened in 3 steps to avoid warping them if you have removed them.
pegscraper Posted April 22, 2008 #7 Posted April 22, 2008 Thank you very much, I removed the dust covers of my front wheel never a big fan of them but you need to remove the rotor bolts and wasn't sure about the spec. Screaming Red:bighug: By dust covers, do you mean the discs that cover up half of the rotors leaving only the pad surface exposed? Does one of them have a weight on the inside of it? You might find your front brakes singing at you whenever you apply them without that damper weight installed. Singing is the word for it too. If it happens, you'll know what I mean. I tried leaving mine off once too, but found that I had to put mine back on for that reason. If you want less bulky looking covers on there, you might try some from a Roadstar or a V Star. They would still have the damper weight on the inside. Another option might be to try some of the floating rotors from a newer Roadstar or other bike that takes the same ones. That floating rotor design cures the singing oscillation without the damper weights.
Albino Rhino Posted April 23, 2008 #8 Posted April 23, 2008 When I had my front tire done at the dealer they had to remove the rotors after they told me they didn't...charged me extra! Wow! I've had my front tire changed a few times over the last 100,000 miles on my '00 RSV and have never had the rotors removed. Of course, this work was done at independent shops, not dealers.
screaming red Posted April 23, 2008 Author #9 Posted April 23, 2008 By dust covers, do you mean the discs that cover up half of the rotors leaving only the pad surface exposed? Does one of them have a weight on the inside of it? You might find your front brakes singing at you whenever you apply them without that damper weight installed. Singing is the word for it too. If it happens, you'll know what I mean. I tried leaving mine off once too, but found that I had to put mine back on for that reason. If you want less bulky looking covers on there, you might try some from a Roadstar or a V Star. They would still have the damper weight on the inside. Another option might be to try some of the floating rotors from a newer Roadstar or other bike that takes the same ones. That floating rotor design cures the singing oscillation without the damper weights. pegscraper, I didn't notice the dampner at first, but even with them on and a new set of front pads man do the front brakes squeal !!!!.Do you mean they are going to get louder:confused24:. Has anyone found front pads that are less prone to squeal. Screaming Red
Marcarl Posted April 23, 2008 #10 Posted April 23, 2008 pegscraper, I didn't notice the dampner at first, but even with them on and a new set of front pads man do the front brakes squeal !!!!.Do you mean they are going to get louder:confused24:. Has anyone found front pads that are less prone to squeal. Screaming Red You probably put new pads on didn't you. The thing I always do is to champher the leading edge of the pad with a file. This normally stops all singing. About 45 degrees should do it and just enough to say that the sharp edge is gone.
screaming red Posted April 23, 2008 Author #11 Posted April 23, 2008 You probably put new pads on didn't you. The thing I always do is to champher the leading edge of the pad with a file. This normally stops all singing. About 45 degrees should do it and just enough to say that the sharp edge is gone. Marcarl, Thanks for the tip. I will take them off and chanmpher the edges and see how it works. Screaming Red
pegscraper Posted April 23, 2008 #12 Posted April 23, 2008 I'm thinking that squealing and the singing I'm talking about are different things. I prevent the squealing by a disc brake quiet product that goes on the backs of the pads against the pistons. Chamfering the leading edge of the pads is a new one on me. I'll try that next time too. The singing I'm talking about isn't a harsh tone at all. It's a clean, smooth, high pitch sound, kind of similar to a crystal glass set into vibration with a wet finger. The volume level sets in gradually. The first time I heard it, it was rather startling. I didn't know whether it was something on my bike or some sound in the neighborhood. It took me several more stops to identify it as my front brakes. When I left my covers with the damper off one time, that's when it started for me. And it quit when I put the damper back on.
screaming red Posted April 24, 2008 Author #13 Posted April 24, 2008 I'm thinking that squealing and the singing I'm talking about are different things. I prevent the squealing by a disc brake quiet product that goes on the backs of the pads against the pistons. Chamfering the leading edge of the pads is a new one on me. I'll try that next time too. The singing I'm talking about isn't a harsh tone at all. It's a clean, smooth, high pitch sound, kind of similar to a crystal glass set into vibration with a wet finger. The volume level sets in gradually. The first time I heard it, it was rather startling. I didn't know whether it was something on my bike or some sound in the neighborhood. It took me several more stops to identify it as my front brakes. When I left my covers with the damper off one time, that's when it started for me. And it quit when I put the damper back on. I got the new tire on and kept the disc covers with the damper off. I used disc brake quiet its like a mild adhesive for the brake pads and also champhered the edges of both pads and absolutely no brake noise at all. Thanks for all the tips guys I thought I would have to live with brake squeal period. I also own a Suzuki M109R and did notice a slight champher to the pads maybe thats why their quiet. Screaming Red:bighug:
Billet Posted April 24, 2008 #14 Posted April 24, 2008 Watch out for that 17# on the front axle pinch bolt. Before you tighten the axle, leave it out about 1 turn from bottoming out and tighten the pinch bolt to 17# and see if the axle still turns. Mine does until about 22#. A drop of oil on the threads is always good too.
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