ragtop69gs Posted July 9, 2017 #1 Posted July 9, 2017 I'm looking at a 2004 Class A DP . Do we have any members owning one that can give me some words of wisdom?
Flyinfool Posted July 9, 2017 #2 Posted July 9, 2017 I do know that rubber is very expensive, check the date codes and not just the thread depth. I do not know anything more specific about DPs vs bumper pull travel trailer and just to do a lot of looking and checking of all systems.
SilvrT Posted July 9, 2017 #3 Posted July 9, 2017 What's the length? I've heard that when you get up around 40' and beyond it gets difficult to find RV campsites. We considered buying a class A but then we'd have to pull a toad and the problem with that is backing up so that means if you can't find a pull-through campsite then you got to unhook the toad. Is this unit Air / hydraulic brakes or just Air? Not sure about other areas but here you need an Air brake endorsement for air brake only rigs but not needed for air / hydraulic. Nice looking rig! What's the asking price?
bongobobny Posted July 9, 2017 #4 Posted July 9, 2017 Sooo, you gonna bring it over to the WNY Rally??
mirider Posted July 9, 2017 #5 Posted July 9, 2017 I'm looking at a 2004 Class A DP . Do we have any members owning one that can give me some words of wisdom? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109622 Jay - I had a 38' Class A for 10 years but sold it in 2014. What kind of info are you looking for.....? Towed a Ford Escape all over the county with it and stayed in everything from state parks to luxury private RV resorts with never a problem on finding a site. It's true you have to unhook a towed vehicle (TOAD) if you don't have a pull-thru site but that takes about 2 minutes if you have the right towing set-up. I wouldn't have wanted one much longer than what I had, mine was big enough to have a king bed and a washer and dryer (a must for the better half). Enjoyed the experience and travels but decided to sell when we moved to a condo. Good luck with your search.
ragtop69gs Posted July 9, 2017 Author #6 Posted July 9, 2017 I do know that rubber is very expensive, check the date codes and not just the thread depth. I do not know anything more specific about DPs vs bumper pull travel trailer and just to do a lot of looking and checking of all systems. Dealer is installing new steer tires, rears are good for 4 more years. What's the length? I've heard that when you get up around 40' and beyond it gets difficult to find RV campsites. This is true of national parks, some state parks. We considered buying a class A but then we'd have to pull a toad and the problem with that is backing up so that means if you can't find a pull-through campsite then you got to unhook the toad. Not a big deal, certainly wouldn't stop me from buying. Is this unit Air / hydraulic brakes or just Air? Air Brakes. Not sure about other areas but here you need an Air brake endorsement for air brake only rigs but not needed for air / hydraulic. No endorsements needed for recreational vehicles in the USA Nice looking rig! And very well cared for. Minor cosmetic issues inside and out. What's the asking price? Dealer was asking 69K but we made a stupid low offer , they countered, I countered , done deal, IF ALL GOES OK WITH THE INSPECTIONS. Sooo, you gonna bring it over to the WNY Rally?? Not sure if I'll make this one with the date change, school starts the week after, busy time for us in the maintenance department. Jay - I had a 38' Class A for 10 years but sold it in 2014. What kind of info are you looking for.....? Towed a Ford Escape all over the county with it and stayed in everything from state parks to luxury private RV resorts with never a problem on finding a site. It's true you have to unhook a towed vehicle (TOAD) if you don't have a pull-thru site but that takes about 2 minutes if you have the right towing set-up. I wouldn't have wanted one much longer than what I had, mine was big enough to have a king bed and a washer and dryer (a must for the better half). Enjoyed the experience and travels but decided to sell when we moved to a condo. Good luck with your search. This one is 39' Pretty loaded 60K miles, stored indoors from day 1. I'm looking for knowledge about Cummins diesel maintenance, hopefully I won't need major mechanical advice.
djh3 Posted July 9, 2017 #7 Posted July 9, 2017 Cummings tried and true. Any guess why those pushers have a Cummings and not a Powerstroke? Almost every DP I saw at the RV show in Jan in Tampa had a Cummings L6. Much newer than what in ole greenie but same dependability. I wondered a lot when you looked at the (call them standard cab) class A. Most all built on a chassis with a V10 Ford. So how come no Powerstroke? Wouldnt it make sense? On the DP there were a couple brands that had Volvo and I think Prevost had a couple with a CAT. By and large Cummings was the engine of choice.
SilvrT Posted July 9, 2017 #8 Posted July 9, 2017 Cummings tried and true. Any guess why those pushers have a Cummings and not a Powerstroke? Almost every DP I saw at the RV show in Jan in Tampa had a Cummings L6. Much newer than what in ole greenie but same dependability. I wondered a lot when you looked at the (call them standard cab) class A. Most all built on a chassis with a V10 Ford. So how come no Powerstroke? Wouldnt it make sense? On the DP there were a couple brands that had Volvo and I think Prevost had a couple with a CAT. By and large Cummings was the engine of choice. My knowledge of Diesel engines goes back to the days when I was the rental and leasing manager for Idealease which at that time was a subsidiary of Navistar (International trucks). Cummins by far out numbered any other brand in the trucks we leased, rented, and sold. Service them regularly and they will never let you down. Also consider looking into preventive maintenance and by that I mean replace or repair things based on their known life span. Cummins Diesel can provide that info for you.
ragtop69gs Posted July 9, 2017 Author #9 Posted July 9, 2017 Cummings tried and true. Any guess why those pushers have a Cummings and not a Powerstroke? Almost every DP I saw at the RV show in Jan in Tampa had a Cummings L6. Much newer than what in ole greenie but same dependability. I wondered a lot when you looked at the (call them standard cab) class A. Most all built on a chassis with a V10 Ford. So how come no Powerstroke? Wouldnt it make sense? On the DP there were a couple brands that had Volvo and I think Prevost had a couple with a CAT. By and large Cummings was the engine of choice. Powerstroke is a light and medium duty engine, not suitable for the weight of most class a coaches. Early prevost used mostly Detroits, if I'm not mistaken. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
93 venture Posted July 9, 2017 #10 Posted July 9, 2017 Dealer is installing new steer tires, rears are good for 4 more years. Not sure if I'll make this one with the date change, school starts the week after, busy time for us in the maintenance department. This one is 39' Pretty loaded 60K miles, stored indoors from day 1. I'm looking for knowledge about Cummins diesel maintenance, hopefully I won't need major mechanical advice. Cummins engine info no problem, if its on a freightliner chassis got ya covered i work for a freightliner dealer
ragtop69gs Posted July 9, 2017 Author #11 Posted July 9, 2017 Cummins engine info no problem, if its on a freightliner chassis got ya covered i work for a freightliner dealer Nope, it's a Roadmaster RR8R Chassis. Thanks for the offer. Cummins engine info no problem, if its on a freightliner chassis got ya covered i work for a freightliner dealer Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
baylensman Posted July 10, 2017 #12 Posted July 10, 2017 Get a "Good Sam's" or other membership, helps with tires on the road. Keep up the maintenance and the rig should be good for 200K miles no sweat. Check the battery hooks ups, are the coach and chassis batteries separate but chargable? Some of the new systems will charge both but keep the chassis battery for starting the rig only, others will allow using the house battery to augment the start. Check the Exhaust on the" on board generator" its a known wear point on most units. Make sure you have keys to all the compartments!! make sure all of them lock, if not convert them. Most rigs are well built these days but all can benefit from a little hangman ingenuity. Things like the drawer sliders can be stiffened with 1/2 molding, Latches for drawers are a big plus. Know your rig, many sites have drain hook ups for gray water only. Do you know which valve dumps which tank. Binder style paper clips on lamp cords and toaster and what not help with clutter. Have a small tool bag by the door, not a full tool kit. Just a few screw drivers with the heads you need for your rig (robertson, posi-drive ect) Extended reach tire guage. A few box wrench Ball hitch size for one. Keep a duplicate Sam's card, fuel card, KOA card ect in a small wallet near the front door just in case! Get your self a check list for "EVERY" start up. Chocks stowed? Tip outs in? Jacks raised? Antenna lowered? Awning stowed away? Cords and hose detached? I've seen guys with years on the road forget the simplest things. A good bike lift on the back!
GAWildKat Posted July 10, 2017 #13 Posted July 10, 2017 And have many years safe driving! We had a really bad RV accident by my house in May. The Husband was driving and hit the left lane jersey barrier with the left front wheel and caused the RV to roll. Several local drivers immediately stopped and pulled the husband and wife from the RV almost as soon as the accident happened. But the wife got some pretty severe burns and died a couple of days later. That RV was fully engulfed in less than 5mins. RVs are really nice. But I'm so scared because it's like driving a semi without the training and the mistakes can be deadly. Be safe folks. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
Gary N. Posted July 10, 2017 #14 Posted July 10, 2017 HI Jay, I have a '14 Tiffin Allegro Bus with 450hp Cummins. You can go to any Cummins repair place and have computer checked for any updates that may be needed. I buy all my filters from http://www.filterbarn.com/ . Expensive to do the annual maintenance but necessary. I found a place close to me that lets me bring my own filters and they do the oil change ( engine and genny ) and chassis lube including brake adjusters etc. I buy the bulk oil from them. Last year they charged me 2 hours labour + the oil ( 28 litres ) and the bill was $300.00 . If you plan on doing your own service be careful under there. Air bags can deflate, use HD jack stands. I figured for the two hours labour @ $75/hr. it was worth having a professional looking around under there while standing in a pit. Also when not being used, I've been advised to fill the fuel tank and add biocide to help avoid algae from forming in the tank. I buy a product at TSC https://www.goldeagle.com/product/sta-bil-diesel-biocide Use one ounce/50 gallons. Better safe than sorry. And I carry spare fuel filters and water separator, just in case. You may already know that the generator won't start if the fuel tank is below 1/4 full. I'm still learning as I go but there are several good web sites to ask questions and learn. This is a good one http://www.irv2.com/forums/
SilvrT Posted July 10, 2017 #15 Posted July 10, 2017 it's like driving a semi without the training and the mistakes can be deadly. Here in B.C. one needs a code 7 endoresement added to their class 5 D/L (a basic D/L) if the loaded weight of the trailer is 4600 Kg (10,141 Lbs) or over. It requires you pass a written exam, an eye test, a very thorough pre-trip inspection AND a road test. Much the same as the test for driving a semi. For anything else, there is no additional requirement. THAT, IMHO, is absolutely ludicrous. A 16 or 17 yr old kid that just got his/her basic D/L can hop in a 40+ foot diesel pusher M/H (without air brakes) and head off down the road. DOH!
GAWildKat Posted July 10, 2017 #16 Posted July 10, 2017 Here in B.C. one needs a code 7 endoresement added to their class 5 D/L (a basic D/L) if the loaded weight of the trailer is 4600 Kg (10,141 Lbs) or over. It requires you pass a written exam, an eye test, a very thorough pre-trip inspection AND a road test. Much the same as the test for driving a semi. For anything else, there is no additional requirement. THAT, IMHO, is absolutely ludicrous. A 16 or 17 yr old kid that just got his/her basic D/L can hop in a 40+ foot diesel pusher M/H (without air brakes) and head off down the road. DOH! It varies from state to state. But Georgia does not require additional licensing for driving an RV. And I think it's crazy. I see how folks drive when they stop at walmart and other retail centers with their RVs and they scare me. I've had several come close to running me over while they were turning around because they weren't situationally aware of where my parked car was nearly took out a line of parked cars. One had me in it. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
Dragonslayer Posted July 10, 2017 #17 Posted July 10, 2017 I don't know much but, I can tell you by looking at it that it probably will not be able to pass a filling station without having to stop for a drink.
SilvrT Posted July 10, 2017 #18 Posted July 10, 2017 I don't know much but, I can tell you by looking at it that it probably will not be able to pass a filling station without having to stop for a drink. LOL, I have a 34 ft 5th wheel which I tow with an '03 F350 V10 ... I've named it "The Green Gobbler" cuz it's green and gobbles gas!
93 venture Posted July 10, 2017 #19 Posted July 10, 2017 I don't know much but, I can tell you by looking at it that it probably will not be able to pass a filling station without having to stop for a drink. The People that bring them in to our shop for repair say they get 6-8 mpg, My dodge truck with a cummins pulling a toy hauler loaded with a RSV get 10 mpg @ 70 mph
ragtop69gs Posted July 11, 2017 Author #20 Posted July 11, 2017 I don't know much but, I can tell you by looking at it that it probably will not be able to pass a filling station without having to stop for a drink. Most owners report 8-9.5 MPG Not too bad for what it is! Heck my Jeep liberty only gets 16 MPG if I drive like an old fart.
ragtop69gs Posted July 11, 2017 Author #21 Posted July 11, 2017 Get a "Good Sam's" or other membership, helps with tires on the road. Keep up the maintenance and the rig should be good for 200K miles no sweat. Check the battery hooks ups, are the coach and chassis batteries separate but chargable? Some of the new systems will charge both but keep the chassis battery for starting the rig only, others will allow using the house battery to augment the start. Check the Exhaust on the" on board generator" its a known wear point on most units. Make sure you have keys to all the compartments!! make sure all of them lock, if not convert them. Most rigs are well built these days but all can benefit from a little hangman ingenuity. Things like the drawer sliders can be stiffened with 1/2 molding, Latches for drawers are a big plus. Know your rig, many sites have drain hook ups for gray water only. Do you know which valve dumps which tank. Binder style paper clips on lamp cords and toaster and what not help with clutter. Have a small tool bag by the door, not a full tool kit. Just a few screw drivers with the heads you need for your rig (robertson, posi-drive ect) Extended reach tire guage. A few box wrench Ball hitch size for one. Keep a duplicate Sam's card, fuel card, KOA card ect in a small wallet near the front door just in case! Get your self a check list for "EVERY" start up. Chocks stowed? Tip outs in? Jacks raised? Antenna lowered? Awning stowed away? Cords and hose detached? I've seen guys with years on the road forget the simplest things. A good bike lift on the back! Coach and chassis have their own battery banks. Gen set has only 160 hours and looks & runs like new! I know where the water bays are, I'll learn to use them properly. I've never had one of these complex machines. I'll be learning diesel maintenance, mostly from my son's F.I.L. , he has 30+ years in the business. Great suggestions on the wallet and check list.
ragtop69gs Posted July 11, 2017 Author #22 Posted July 11, 2017 But I'm so scared because it's like driving a semi without the training and the mistakes can be deadly. Be safe folks. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk Terrible story about his wife passing. I did drive OTR Semi's for about 2 years, I'm no stranger to large trucks. They do demand respect and awareness.
GAWildKat Posted July 11, 2017 #23 Posted July 11, 2017 I realize some on the forums are or were OTR. My connection was being married into a trucking family once. I have a healthy respect for anything that big. Meaning you will see me get down the road quickly around them at 80mph if needed. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
bongobobny Posted July 11, 2017 #24 Posted July 11, 2017 For myself, and ONLY for myself, my opinion on RV's and 5th wheel trailers have been for the money in the initial investment and the operating costs, I can buy a hell of a lot of nice hotel rooms for the night... Jay, I have a nice bottle of Carribean Rum waiting for you to come over...
baylensman Posted July 11, 2017 #25 Posted July 11, 2017 For myself, and ONLY for myself, my opinion on RV's and 5th wheel trailers have been for the money in the initial investment and the operating costs, I can buy a hell of a lot of nice hotel rooms for the night... Jay, I have a nice bottle of Carribean Rum waiting for you to come over... opposite I had a neighbor who bought his rig for just that reason, he wasn't going to spend money to sleep in someone else sheets! Evidently his daughter and a few friends all worked at our local seaside resorts (some big chains) Sheets are not changed every day even at the high end places or even when a guest checks out. Other than ripping the sheets off the bed and throwing them in the tub and calling the desk and complaining of stained or smelly sheets canyon be sure.
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