Need thoughts possibe starter or something else 2011 RSV

[orlean1]

Hi All

 

Yesterday I came home from work. I ride everyday. About 25 miles each way to work. About a hour later went to start the bike and I didn't hear the fuel pump kick in and the bike wouldn't start. I let it sit for a day and went to start it this morning, I heard the fuel pump but still no noise when i tried to start it. The lights come on and Im getting 12 volts. The fuel filter was changed about 3 months ago. Also I notice this past week when i get off the highway in the morning about a 20 minutes ride i put my hand on the engine to warm them up. Normally i can leave them their no longer than a sec and feel the heat through the gloves. This past week it was a lot longer on each cylinder before I felt the heat, almost as the engine felt only luke warm. The temps are in the upper 50s in the morning but in the winter a lot colder when i could only leave my hands on for a second.

 

Do you think the problem is the starter, spark plugs or something else. When i push the start button nothing, no clicking or anything.

[M61A1MECH]

I assume you checked the obvious first? The kill switch. Is the kill switch on the right handle bar in the on position?

Also you may want to check the other interlock switches on the side stand and the clutch.

[orlean1]

I assume you checked the obvious first? The kill switch. Is the kill switch on the right handle bar in the on position?

Also you may want to check the other interlock switches on the side stand and the clutch.

The bike is on. kick stand status is working. and wont start in neutral or with clutch pulled in in gear

[Marcarl]

Rock the kill switch a few times.

[RedRider]

Check the main/starter fuse. Behind the battery cover on the clutch lever side.

 

RR

Edited July 28, 2017 by RedRider

[camos]

I heard the fuel pump but still no noise when i tried to start it.

Does that mean you are not hearing the starter turn over?

The lights come on and Im getting 12 volts.

To eliminate battery or weak connection to the starter try hooking up a car battery to the bike battery. There have been a couple of occasions when my VR hasn't started right after running for a while and the problem was a dirty battery connection even though it looked good. Part of that could be a dirty connection to the starter which might reduce the power available.

Also I notice this past week when i get off the highway in the morning about a 20 minutes ride i put my hand on the engine to warm them up. Normally i can leave them their no longer than a sec and feel the heat through the gloves. This past week it was a lot longer on each cylinder before I felt the heat, almost as the engine felt only luke warm. The temps are in the upper 50s in the morning but in the winter a lot colder when i could only leave my hands on for a second.

No heat or not much, to the touch is a pretty good indicator that a cylinder or two is not firing.

[orlean1]

Day 3 update. When i try the ignition now i dont hear the fuel pump kick in. Im still getting enough amps. I checked the ignition fuses and the battery connection and they were all good. It may be that the fuel pump is out. I need to buy a new one.

[videoarizona]

Day 3 update. When i try the ignition now i dont hear the fuel pump kick in. Im still getting enough amps. I checked the ignition fuses and the battery connection and they were all good. It may be that the fuel pump is out. I need to buy a new one.

 

I don't see how you determined the battery has enough amps. Apologies if I missed that.

 

If not - Take the battery to Auto Zone or similar place and get a free load test. If you do the battery trick mentioned above...make sure you do NOT start the car...only connect a good battery to the bike battery. Having the car running could fry your bikes electronics.

 

A weak battery will do what you are saying....and can still show 12volts!

 

After that tests good (hopefully), then check the ignition switch and the 2 ignition shutoff switches. Check the main fuse on bottom left side under passenger foot rest area for clean contacts. The ignition switch can go bad if you haven't installed a bypass relay as there is a heavy electrical load going through the switch. The ignition shut off switch on the right handlebar can get pretty dirty. Easy to clean. The roll-over switch can be tested...download the 2nd Gen shop manual on this site.

[orlean1]

Ill run the battery down the street to autozone. I was just going by the volt meter.

[videoarizona]

There is also a way to test if the starter or starter solenoid is bad. Search the archives here as someone did post a good test procedure, if memory serves.

But I'm sure the manual also covers that just more involved.

 

Keep us posted on battery test results.

[orlean1]

Just came back from autozone and the battery test. The battery was bad only 5 cranking amps. Brought a new battery and installed it. Going to find the test for the starter now.

[videoarizona]

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?121158-Intermittent-starting-issue&highlight=starter+test

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?126642-Won-t-start&highlight=starter

 

Ideas.....

[bongobobny]

Click... VROOOOOMM!!

[videoarizona]

Starter, solenoid or switch....

[orlean1]

Thanks everyone for the assistance with my issue. My skills are limited past fluid changes and brakes so I had to run it into the shop. It turns out it was corrosion on the starter spring and on the relay. The shop cleaned up the corrosion and she starts every time.