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Preppn 4 Big Sky Country, howlin with the Badlands Coyotes and CTFW to the west coast


cowpuc

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Gotta tell ya,, this retirement stuff aint half bad,,,, sleeping in after working my tail off yesterday playing with Tweeksis getting her ready for summer fun.. Tips up frying breakfast tatoes while I'm laying in bed posting up more "way it happened to me" video's for you lop eared varmints :big-grin-emoticon:

 

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Little by little,, inch by inch,, by the yard its hard by the inch its a cinch!!!!!!!!!!! Tweeksis is looking better every second!!:thumbsup:

 

 

E6000. Funny! I used that stuff to put reflectors down in our HOA roads. Worked real well. Only issue I had with that stuff was it took a long time to cure. BTW, I let it dry on my fingers then peel it off.

Let us know how it works!

Safe trip, Puc!!!

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WOWZY those tatoes is smelling mighty fine!!! I get these vids OF yesterdays fun posted I'm gonna CHOW DOWN!!!

 

 

Beads. Dealer tried then on my RSV. But they didn't work. It wasn't until later that I found out the RSV front tire is so big, you need a lot of beads. They didn't have enough. So make sure you put enough in, Sir Pucster!!

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I'm just wondering, will that E6000 be flexible enough so that the diaphragm still correctly responds as it should, or will it make it too stiff or have a poor response to the normal pressures they see...

 

Absolutely EXCELLENT point Bongo!!! Fact is - that stuff cures up AMAZINGLY flexible - like a very good rubber band type flexible only you cant hardly break this stuff AND when it does seperate - it does so with a "snap"!! Frankly - I am beginning to think a person could actually "pour" new diaphrams out of this stuff and they would work GREAT!! Its that good!!!!!

I got a lot more testing to do (just like I did with the YamaBond) - right now it appears that E-6000 is also more adhesive to the rubber on the diaphram then even YamaBond (the 6000 IS an adhesive) so this probably will not be necessary BUT - I am thinking that my next testing will find me putting a dab of it on my index finger and dab on my thumb and them putting the diaphram hole between them and pinching = bascially sealing off the hole on both sides and forming a new diaphram around it..

Sooo much fun doing this stuff full time now,, I have discovered lots of non traditional stuff like this thru the years but now that I am officically retired - look out world!!!!

Will let you guys know what I come up with = you do the same - OK?

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I have been using Dyna Beads on my 02 RSMV since 2008, and have never needed a weight since. 2 oz. per tire and all is smooth.

 

:farmer:

 

WOWZY those tatoes is smelling mighty fine!!! I get these vids OF yesterdays fun posted I'm gonna CHOW DOWN!!!

 

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Beads. Dealer tried then on my RSV. But they didn't work. It wasn't until later that I found out the RSV front tire is so big, you need a lot of beads. They didn't have enough. So make sure you put enough in, Sir Pucster!!

 

If you continue to waste time watching these dorky vids Vaz you will notice that I DEFINITELY will not be running beads on this trip - balanced both front and rear the tradition home garage way.. The testing of the beads will have to wait,,, aint no way,, aint no how I wanna bounce my way to the west coast and back = not a good plan...

These SHinko's appear AWESOME!! Far heavier then the Kenda I just removed.. Like you said,, it will be interesting to see how they wear - specially the rear!! Lotta miles twix here and "1" - LOTS of good miles but LOTS of miles none the less!!

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I started using Counteract beads rather than the Dyna brand. I believe it was 3 oz per tire. When I was reading up on them prior to switching to beads there was an advantage to the Counteract brand. I think it was that they are glass and the Dyna are ceramic and the ceramic would wear down quicker.

When it's time to change a tire you can drill a hole with a hole saw in the tread of the tire and dump them out to reuse them. That will at least keep them from scattering all over the floor.

I have no problem with out of balance tires when using them

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Puc I saw that you used the E6000 on your saddlebag. There is another product that my son used on a lawnmower oil fill tub and it worked great. It is called Q bond and you can get it at most auto stores. He got it at Advanced auto and it works great.

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I'm just wondering, will that E6000 be flexible enough so that the diaphragm still correctly responds as it should, or will it make it too stiff or have a poor response to the normal pressures they see...

 

Here ya go my friend - check this out,, AMAZING stuff!!!

 

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gosh darnit @cowpuc I started watching your videos forgetting right now I am using my cell phone as wifi hotspot so didn't get to see the hub bub but whatever it is looks like its a blast and your doing well. Have fun on your trip. If you go thru Joplin give me a shout out. I now live just off of route 66... all this time I never realized the route of root 66 lol. Gps told me the other day...:Avatars_Gee_George: I knew it went thru Joplin because of the song but always thought it was the outer road and come to find out that road don't really work as outer road.... it goes smack dab thru downtown Joplin...

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Puc,

If a diaphragm has developed cracks and/or holes, are they not a result of the aging and deterioration of the rubber? If so, couldn't one expect new holes or cracks to develop in short order on a repaired diaphragm?

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I used Dyna Beads in the past but getting them down the valve stem can be a real struggle. Seems like the OD of the beads and the ID of the valve stem are just too close. The beads tend to pile up in the valve stem and refuse to go down - except one by one in a line. Not so easy to do. I used a blunt electric engraver tool which vibrates to help with the process - some help but not total happiness. Then I asked myself why I was struggling so much for something which was supposed to be easier! Now I just use the weights and quit trying to be clever.

zag

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Puc,

If a diaphragm has developed cracks and/or holes, are they not a result of the aging and deterioration of the rubber? If so, couldn't one expect new holes or cracks to develop in short order on a repaired diaphragm?

 

Hey Zude,, IMHO = yes :scratchchin: and no :big-grin-emoticon:... Fact is,, I have dealt with enough diaphram issues thru the years to have experienced some pretty interesting scenario'.. I would say that 80% of the actual open tears as on the diaphram I show in the vid are actually surrounded by rubber that is still in excellent condition. What happens, again = IMHO, is that the diaphram develops little folds in its body and its those little folds are generally where the tears in the body will show up.

Another very common malady, again = IMHO, usually occurs along the edge that meets the carb body. If you pull a diaphram you will probably notice it sets in a groove along the edge of the opening in the carb - its this edge that the cap captures when you tighten down those four little screws - am I making any sense = I know I am very hard to follow at times?

Right along that edge where the diaphram is constintly in motion it can wear pretty thin and even tear = even when the rest of the diaphram appears remarkably healthy. You have to examine em closely at times to see this but I have seen that area worn so thin it looks like your looking thru a nylon.. I have also seen this same thiness appear on the folds I spoke of earlier..

All of the above I have repair very successfully using YamaBond..

I do have some REALLY nasty - almost crumbly dry - diaphrams that, IMHO, are probably like that from sitting in an unused carb set = I know for a fact that the ones I have sat for over 20 years outdoors in the carbset.. That malady is acutally quite rare from what I have seen..

Of course - there is also the diaphram that has just slid out of its captured spot on the ring down on the slide - completely fixable..

What you witnessed in my video if you watched it was the beginning of a typical Puc science experiment.. I actually havent even began the testing that I need to do BUT - again, IMHO - this E6000 has some really really unique charactoristics that I have never seen before and I have tried a LOT of products.. I have a hunch that even if the diaphram was of the rarer - dried up and crumbly type = I could still use it as a mold for shaping the finished product and come out with a surprisingly effective diaphram..

As far as the other maladies - I have a sneaking hunch that the E6000 will do even a better job then the YamaBond and, quite frankly = that stuff is gonna be hard to beat!!

I get back from a summer of traveling now that I am feeling a little better I will DEFINITELY start the process and keep you informed here as to what I find..

In the mean time,, if you or anyone else wants to jump in and play with that stuff it is very inexpensive and found in many places - like I said, I picked it up at a local department store - very similar to Wally World.. If you do so, PLEASE post up what ya find so we dont double up on the science experiementing:301:..

 

PS - this reminds me of how I discovered "Red Kote" tank sealer.. Coated MANY tanks over the years using everything from my own home brew concoction derived from a mixture of Seal All and Acetone to that infamous white tank sealer called "Kreme Coat" that everyone has tried at least once in the life.. I now have fuel tanks out there that were sealed with Red Kote that are still as nice as the day I coated em and they have been in service over 20 years!!:322:

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