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Posted

Hi, all. New to the RSV and this board. Thanks for all the info!

 

I get a whine when I lean the bike over in corners. Whine is uniform with right turn or left turn. Whine is variable, sometimes worse than others, usually worse with two passengers. Sometimes i suspect it is a front tire hum, but most of the time it sounds more like it comes from the rear wheel. More a mechanical whine that a tire hum. Tired of leaning all around the bike like an idiot as I ride, trying to pinpoint where the sound is coming from. I suppose it could be clutch whine reflecting off windshield, but it most often sounds like rear wheel is the source. Bought the 04 RSMV over the winter with 3700 miles on it. Had a new Dunlap tire on the the rear. Bike now has 6700 miles. I think the front tire is still the original. No dry rot, but I do plan on putting on a Commander II soon. Any ideas what is causing my whine? Thanks in advance.

Posted

As tires get older they will start to whine even if the tread is still good. Check the date code on the tires to see just how old they are.

Check the tires for even wear, if the tire is starting to cup that will cause whine. Tire pressure makes a difference to.

Some tires are just a lot louder than others in the curves.

 

The 2nd gens are well known for clutch whine. Are you sure it is not that? But then clutch whine is there all the time, not just in corners, although it can be louder in the corners since the sound can reflect off the road surface to be more noticeable.

Posted

The way I isolated my whine was to just pull the clutch in while at "peak" whine. If it goes away its a pretty good bet its the clutch, if it keeps on whining its either the rear end or the tires.

It dont cost much to try, do it at a safe speed in a safe area.

 

Craig

Posted (edited)

I will try the clutch in the corner test. I don't hear clutch noise any other time. If it isn't the clutch, I will take the rear wheel off, grease everything and reinstall it. I already replaced the rear diff fluid. No obvious cupping of front tire. I know it is old. I will replace it in the near future. I run between 38-40psi front and back. Back tire was brand new when i got the bike. I will check the date on it.

Edited by SlickSpot
Posted

Had the same problem. Bought an 08 RSV late fall/early winter last year with just under 5K miles on it and it still had the original tires. They looked great and had plenty of tread on them. When I finally had the chance to really pui some miles on it this spring, I had the same whine you are talking about. As tires get older, the rubber gets harder. Put new Avon Cobras on the the whine disappeared. Bet it your tires also.

Posted

Thanks for your reply about similar experience. I tried the clutch test in corners last night. Definitely not the clutch. Pretty sure it's the front tire. Just shocking how loud it can be at times. Also strange the way it totally sounds like it is coming from the rear at times. I will switch to a Commander II on the front. If it still whines, I am going to the dark side on the back.

Posted

Very common. Some tires worse than others. Often you can run your open palm lightly along the edge of the tire and feel scalloping but not always. I've even had some brand new tires do it, depending upon the tread design. The original Michelin Commander was sing like crazy in a sweeping curve. They have upgraded that tire and it's now called the Commander II but I haven't tried one and don't know if it still makes the noise or not. It was a great tire otherwise.

Posted

Play this video from :39 to :46 and you can clearly hear the typical clutch whine people talk about.. Definitely agree with the tire whine thoughts!!

 

Posted

I rode my Gen1 home after purchase and I was sure it was wheel bearings. Any lean angle at all produced a significant hum. The tires (Metzler Marathons) had lots of life left but also had significant feathering. Replaced with Dunlop E3s and problem is gone. It was definately more of a hum than a whine though. I have an audible amount of gear whine but I dont think it's unusual on these bikes.

Posted

Thanks for all your input, guys! It definitely isn't the clutch noise in your video, cowpuc. Convinced it is tires.

 

Beautiful country you are riding through in video! I am in Massachusetts, but parents live in Camp Verde, AZ. Father has a four wheeler and i take tours on dirt roads through similar country. Breathtaking!! How many miles do you have on that Gen. 1??

Posted
Thanks for all your input, guys! It definitely isn't the clutch noise in your video, cowpuc. Convinced it is tires.

 

Beautiful country you are riding through in video! I am in Massachusetts, but parents live in Camp Verde, AZ. Father has a four wheeler and i take tours on dirt roads through similar country. Breathtaking!! How many miles do you have on that Gen. 1??

 

Indeed brother - THAT is sooooo gorgeous out there - a couple of best friends on a beat up old motorcycle could easily ride off into the sunset and get lost in their dreams while singing some old cowboy songs out there for sure.. DEFINITELY,, as you say,, BREATHTAKING!!

Ol Tweeks had just over 300k at that point.. Her speedo died in Dennison Texas a couple weeks before we got there at just under 300k - before we scooted down to Big Bend.. Poor thing finally gave up the ghost.. Was kind of a God send though as my wife - Tippy - had caught me and Tweeks duking it out with a sport bike before it broke at speeds in the triple digits with her on the back and she put her foot down to speed limit us at 100 mph.. After the speedo broke - I had to guess our speed all the time - she never caught on to the fact that I was using the tach as a speedo,,,, Tweeks and I went right back to our normal "open range" antics after it broke :hihi:.. Later in that trip, before we reached the VR Rally in The Dalles Oregon, Tweeks fuel gauge decided to go on a vacation of its own like the speedo did earlier which left me guessing on fuel consumption.. Ran out of gas twice after that - once on "99" just short of Elk Grove California - ended up pushing the bike up the exit ramp to a gas station. Next time was just short of Chamberlin South Dakota - that one was a little longer push - about a 1/4 mile... Tippy put her foot down with that one and made me pick up another gas can to carry (had given my other one to my grand son in California before we lost the fuel gauge).. To the day Tip gets really nervous when the fuel light on the bike comes on,, I think the combination of pushing a 900 pound bike in the heat and having people stare at her while she was doing it changed her for ever - still an amazing best friend BUT definitely jittery around empty fuel tanks on motorcycles she is gonna be riding cross country on..

 

Wanna see another spot that I absolutely LOVE and have on my bucklist to cross someday on a bike? If so,, here ya go = if you camp out on this white stuff and lay still and flat on the earth under you, I swear you can feel the earth breathing,, sounds crazy but amazingly true - we Americans have been endlessly blessed I tell ya:

 

Posted

300,000+???? Wow!!! Amazing!!! If Tippy allows up to 100 mph AND takes turns pushing the bike, I think you better listen to her. Sounds like you got a keeper!! Thanks for sharing the salts flat video. I will put "feeling the earth breath" on my bucket list! Heading out to Camp Verde Arizona the last week of July. Looking forward to those high deserts! Wish i could ride the bike out there, I just don't have the time. Next time! Riding throught Sedona also on my bucket list.

Posted

Sedona is getting so crowded now, it's tiring on 2 wheels.

Try riding 89a, rt260, 89, or any of the 2 Lanes in the mountains. Just don't do it when it's crowded...

 

That's the primary reason I prefer riding in southern Az. No people. Just nice little roads going someplace.... Usually a cool place.

Posted
If its a Dunlap E3, Ill bet its rear tire. They cup and feather the exges.

 

My worst of the worst has been Metz.. First they feather and even viberate noticably as they sing in the corners.. Then they start tossing chunks of rubber especially if your riding on hot tarmac..

20140624_191517.jpg

Posted
300,000+???? Wow!!! Amazing!!! If Tippy allows up to 100 mph AND takes turns pushing the bike, I think you better listen to her. Sounds like you got a keeper!! Thanks for sharing the salts flat video. I will put "feeling the earth breath" on my bucket list! Heading out to Camp Verde Arizona the last week of July. Looking forward to those high deserts! Wish i could ride the bike out there, I just don't have the time. Next time! Riding throught Sedona also on my bucket list.

 

Got that right,, that Tippy = she is a keeper!!!:thumbsup: Sometimes I wonder how on earth a precious lady like that one ever ended up permanently attached to the back of my scoot but hey,,,, I'm not one to turn down a blessing when God is passing em out :missingtooth:

 

You do Sedona,, dont miss out on this one!! I hit that mountain top town every time I pass thru that area - GORGEOUS!!!:thumbsup:

 

DSCN4436.JPG

Posted (edited)

SlickSpot, Hope you don't mind a thread hijack at this point.

 

All: Since the"whine" problem gets brought up a lot, I thought I would change the thread direction. Helping keep the conversation fresh for the search engine as well as maybe try to consolidate the types of whine we hear.

 

Please correct any mistakes or add what I might have missed.

 

There are actually 5 types of whines available for our 1st and/or 2nd gens.

 

1. Gear whine.

2. Clutch basket whine

3. Tire whine

4. Output shaft (middle drive gear) at Ujoint breaks.

5. Drive shaft to rear end interface break.

 

1: Gear whine. This is not a problem. Rather it's a result of the straight cut gears in the trannie. For some, changing the oil to synthetic quiets that down. For others, going with dino 20-50wt does the trick.

 

2: Clutch. I believe this is a real problem in early mk1's. Remedied by replacing clutch basket with new model. For the rest of us... It is what it is... And not a problem.

 

3: Tires. Many of us have experienced tire whine. Usually associated with either worn tread, low air pressure or the dreaded cupping of some tires. Almost always the whine is most pronounced in a turn.

Tire whine can be used as an early warning of possible tire problems. Age, low air or damage.

 

4: The output shaft (middle drive gear) at the U joint can break right at the nut. Leaving the nut and end of shaft sitting inside the u joint. So far, I don't believe we have had any incidents of shaft lock up, so the nut must be just the right size to tumble around. This is a real problem, but the bike is rideable since the front end of the u joint is sitting on the splined end of the output shaft. It will drive fine, but whine. This problem only has appeared on 1st gens. Consensus is the shaft was probably not heat treated properly at factory or damaged from hard de-celleration.

This problem is easily confirmed by removing left saddlebag and side cover, pushing the spring and the rubber cover off the end of the motor exposing the u joint. With bike on stand and trannie in neutral, you can spin tire, watch u joint turn and see if the nut is tumbling around inside u joint. Flashlight helps. Repair is straight forward but does require taking rear end of bike apart to get to the output of the motor. A new shaft with it's associated shims will be needed.

 

5: Last is the input shaft to the rear end. It is a small shaft that holds the coupling gear via a nut. The coupling gear is splined and the drive shaft slips into this couple to drive rear end. This problem is easy to identify as the whine is most pronounced when you back off of throttle. Again, there doesn't seem to be any history of danger will this condition while riding as the drive shaft end sits inside the splined coupling gear and will still drive the bike. Just loud whine!

This is only a1st Gen issue. It can be checked by taking tire off, taking rear end off, pulling drive shaft out of rear end. In my case, the broken end of the coupling shaft came out when I pulled drive shaft out of rear end.

Reminder, on mk1's, the drive shaft is greased on both ends prior to re-assembly. The mk2's are greased only on the front splined end that goes into the u joint. The rear end is the drive shaft is oiled by the rear end oil.

 

Here is an older thread about the 1st Gen broken shaft.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?91454-Rear-End-Questions&highlight=Rear+break

 

I think I've covered all the "whines" produced by our scoots. With the exception of the whine we hear from the northern latitudes when a certain fool is testing his snow machine!! Can't do anything about that whine as the only cure is called Spring.

 

Hope this helps and feel free to add or correct the info here.

Edited by videoarizona
Add
Posted
SlickSpot, Hope you don't mind a thread hijack at this point.

 

All: Since the"whine" problem gets brought up a lot, I thought I would change the thread direction. Helping keep the conversation fresh for the search engine as well as maybe try to consolidate the types of whine we hear.

 

Please correct any mistakes or add what I might have missed.

 

There are actually 5 types of whines available for our 1st and/or 2nd gens.

 

1. Gear whine.

2. Clutch basket whine

3. Tire whine

4. Output shaft (middle drive gear) at Ujoint breaks.

5. Drive shaft to rear end interface break.

 

1: Gear whine. This is not a problem. Rather it's a result of the straight cut gears in the trannie. For some, changing the oil to synthetic quiets that down. For others, going with dino 20-50wt does the trick.

 

2: Clutch. I believe this is a real problem in early mk1's. Remedied by replacing clutch basket with new model. For the rest of us... It is what it is... And not a problem.

 

3: Tires. Many of us have experienced tire whine. Usually associated with either worn tread, low air pressure or the dreaded cupping of some tires. Almost always the whine is most pronounced in a turn.

Tire whine can be used as an early warning of possible tire problems. Age, low air or damage.

 

4: The output shaft (middle drive gear) at the U joint can break right at the nut. Leaving the nut and end of shaft sitting inside the u joint. So far, I don't believe we have had any incidents of shaft lock up, so the nut must be just the right size to tumble around. This is a real problem, but the bike is rideable since the front end of the u joint is sitting on the splined end of the output shaft. It will drive fine, but whine. This problem only has appeared on 1st gens. Consensus is the shaft was probably not heat treated properly at factory or damaged from hard de-celleration.

This problem is easily confirmed by removing left saddlebag and side cover, pushing the spring and the rubber cover off the end of the motor exposing the u joint. With bike on stand and trannie in neutral, you can spin tire, watch u joint turn and see if the nut is tumbling around inside u joint. Flashlight helps. Repair is straight forward but does require taking rear end of bike apart to get to the output of the motor. A new shaft with it's associated shims will be needed.

 

5: Last is the input shaft to the rear end. It is a small shaft that holds the coupling gear via a nut. The coupling gear is splined and the drive shaft slips into this couple to drive rear end. This problem is easy to identify as the whine is most pronounced when you back off of throttle. Again, there doesn't seem to be any history of danger will this condition while riding as the drive shaft end sits inside the splined coupling gear and will still drive the bike. Just loud whine!

This is only a1st Gen issue. It can be checked by taking tire off, taking rear end off, pulling drive shaft out of rear end. In my case, the broken end of the coupling shaft came out when I pulled drive shaft out of rear end.

Reminder, on mk1's, the drive shaft is greased on both ends prior to re-assembly. The mk2's are greased only on the front splined end that goes into the u joint. The rear end is the drive shaft is pulled by the rear end oil.

 

Here is an older thread about the 1st Gen broken shaft.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?91454-Rear-End-Questions&highlight=Rear+break

 

I think I've covered all the "whines" produced by our scoots. With the exception of the whine we hear from the northern latitudes when a certain fool is testing his snow machine!! Can't do anything about that whine as the only cure is called Spring.

 

Hope this helps and feel free to add or correct the info here.

 

GREAT write up Vaz!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:clap2::dancefool::thumbsup: THANK YOU!! Bet we wouldn't here no whining from club members if @Freebird decided to "pin" that list somewhere,, maybe in the Tech Section:missingtooth:.. I am always looking for this kind of stuff to share with others when they ask about problems and to solve issues of my own.. LOTS of good points there David!!

Posted
SlickSpot, Hope you don't mind a thread hijack at this point.

 

All: Since the"whine" problem gets brought up a lot, I thought I would change the thread direction. Helping keep the conversation fresh for the search engine as well as maybe try to consolidate the types of whine we hear.

 

Please correct any mistakes or add what I might have missed.

 

There are actually 5 types of whines available for our 1st and/or 2nd gens.

 

1. Gear whine.

2. Clutch basket whine

3. Tire whine

4. Output shaft (middle drive gear) at Ujoint breaks.

5. Drive shaft to rear end interface break.

 

1: Gear whine. This is not a problem. Rather it's a result of the straight cut gears in the trannie. For some, changing the oil to synthetic quiets that down. For others, going with dino 20-50wt does the trick.

 

2: Clutch. I believe this is a real problem in early mk1's. Remedied by replacing clutch basket with new model. For the rest of us... It is what it is... And not a problem.

 

3: Tires. Many of us have experienced tire whine. Usually associated with either worn tread, low air pressure or the dreaded cupping of some tires. Almost always the whine is most pronounced in a turn.

Tire whine can be used as an early warning of possible tire problems. Age, low air or damage.

 

4: The output shaft (middle drive gear) at the U joint can break right at the nut. Leaving the nut and end of shaft sitting inside the u joint. So far, I don't believe we have had any incidents of shaft lock up, so the nut must be just the right size to tumble around. This is a real problem, but the bike is rideable since the front end of the u joint is sitting on the splined end of the output shaft. It will drive fine, but whine. This problem only has appeared on 1st gens. Consensus is the shaft was probably not heat treated properly at factory or damaged from hard de-celleration.

This problem is easily confirmed by removing left saddlebag and side cover, pushing the spring and the rubber cover off the end of the motor exposing the u joint. With bike on stand and trannie in neutral, you can spin tire, watch u joint turn and see if the nut is tumbling around inside u joint. Flashlight helps. Repair is straight forward but does require taking rear end of bike apart to get to the output of the motor. A new shaft with it's associated shims will be needed.

 

5: Last is the input shaft to the rear end. It is a small shaft that holds the coupling gear via a nut. The coupling gear is splined and the drive shaft slips into this couple to drive rear end. This problem is easy to identify as the whine is most pronounced when you back off of throttle. Again, there doesn't seem to be any history of danger will this condition while riding as the drive shaft end sits inside the splined coupling gear and will still drive the bike. Just loud whine!

This is only a1st Gen issue. It can be checked by taking tire off, taking rear end off, pulling drive shaft out of rear end. In my case, the broken end of the coupling shaft came out when I pulled drive shaft out of rear end.

Reminder, on mk1's, the drive shaft is greased on both ends prior to re-assembly. The mk2's are greased only on the front splined end that goes into the u joint. The rear end is the drive shaft is pulled by the rear end oil.

 

Here is an older thread about the 1st Gen broken shaft.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?91454-Rear-End-Questions&highlight=Rear+break

 

I think I've covered all the "whines" produced by our scoots. With the exception of the whine we hear from the northern latitudes when a certain fool is testing his snow machine!! Can't do anything about that whine as the only cure is called Spring.

 

Hope this helps and feel free to add or correct the info here.

 

What an excellent writeup, I agree that this would make a fine pinup.

 

I have a significant decel whine but it comes from the gearbox. Also have a rhythmic rubrubrubrub at lower speeds coming from rear but I'm sitting on new E3s. I plan to change the final drive oil before I leave on my next trip.

 

I agree about the Metzlers being aweful. Have em' on my vmax too and they feather like nothing I have ever seen.

 

Im not sure what noise my clutch makes but I do hear the faint knock that mimicks a tired rod bearing. I have an audiophile ear that picked that up and last time I put the hammer down I thought it might have slipped a little. Time to open her up but I have another trip coming up before I can get to it. I attributed some of this to it being almost 30 and having 70k on the clock, even though it aint much its pretty far from new. I did notice some sparklies when I did the first oil change. Thanks for this great info. Ill be ordering a clutch and inspecting final drive, shaft and rear wheel/bearings...after I get back.

Posted
Got that right,, that Tippy = she is a keeper!!!:thumbsup: Sometimes I wonder how on earth a precious lady like that one ever ended up permanently attached to the back of my scoot but hey,,,, I'm not one to turn down a blessing when God is passing em out :missingtooth:

 

You do Sedona,, dont miss out on this one!! I hit that mountain top town every time I pass thru that area - GORGEOUS!!!:thumbsup:

 

 

LOVE Jerome! Definitely a must stop every visit! Much more artist colony that the tourist trap Sedona. I love the Gold Mine junk yard just past Jerome as well. Very cool!!

Posted
SlickSpot, Hope you don't mind a thread hijack at this point.

 

All: Since the"whine" problem gets brought up a lot, I thought I would change the thread direction. Helping keep the conversation fresh for the search engine as well as maybe try to consolidate the types of whine we hear.

 

Please correct any mistakes or add what I might have missed.

 

There are actually 5 types of whines available for our 1st and/or 2nd gens.

 

1. Gear whine.

2. Clutch basket whine

3. Tire whine

4. Output shaft (middle drive gear) at Ujoint breaks.

5. Drive shaft to rear end interface break.

 

1: Gear whine. This is not a problem. Rather it's a result of the straight cut gears in the trannie. For some, changing the oil to synthetic quiets that down. For others, going with dino 20-50wt does the trick.

 

2: Clutch. I believe this is a real problem in early mk1's. Remedied by replacing clutch basket with new model. For the rest of us... It is what it is... And not a problem.

 

3: Tires. Many of us have experienced tire whine. Usually associated with either worn tread, low air pressure or the dreaded cupping of some tires. Almost always the whine is most pronounced in a turn.

Tire whine can be used as an early warning of possible tire problems. Age, low air or damage.

 

4: The output shaft (middle drive gear) at the U joint can break right at the nut. Leaving the nut and end of shaft sitting inside the u joint. So far, I don't believe we have had any incidents of shaft lock up, so the nut must be just the right size to tumble around. This is a real problem, but the bike is rideable since the front end of the u joint is sitting on the splined end of the output shaft. It will drive fine, but whine. This problem only has appeared on 1st gens. Consensus is the shaft was probably not heat treated properly at factory or damaged from hard de-celleration.

This problem is easily confirmed by removing left saddlebag and side cover, pushing the spring and the rubber cover off the end of the motor exposing the u joint. With bike on stand and trannie in neutral, you can spin tire, watch u joint turn and see if the nut is tumbling around inside u joint. Flashlight helps. Repair is straight forward but does require taking rear end of bike apart to get to the output of the motor. A new shaft with it's associated shims will be needed.

 

5: Last is the input shaft to the rear end. It is a small shaft that holds the coupling gear via a nut. The coupling gear is splined and the drive shaft slips into this couple to drive rear end. This problem is easy to identify as the whine is most pronounced when you back off of throttle. Again, there doesn't seem to be any history of danger will this condition while riding as the drive shaft end sits inside the splined coupling gear and will still drive the bike. Just loud whine!

This is only a1st Gen issue. It can be checked by taking tire off, taking rear end off, pulling drive shaft out of rear end. In my case, the broken end of the coupling shaft came out when I pulled drive shaft out of rear end.

Reminder, on mk1's, the drive shaft is greased on both ends prior to re-assembly. The mk2's are greased only on the front splined end that goes into the u joint. The rear end is the drive shaft is oiled by the rear end oil.

 

Here is an older thread about the 1st Gen broken shaft.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?91454-Rear-End-Questions&highlight=Rear+break

 

I think I've covered all the "whines" produced by our scoots. With the exception of the whine we hear from the northern latitudes when a certain fool is testing his snow machine!! Can't do anything about that whine as the only cure is called Spring.

 

Hope this helps and feel free to add or correct the info here.

 

This isn't a hijack, this is exactly the info I was looking for!! Much appreciated!

 

I identified the clutch whine. I have it at times. It doesn't bug me yet. I think the front and back tires whine. The front is the original from 2004. I will replace it. The rear is a new Dunlap. At least the tread is new. The tire could be 10 years old. I haven't looked for the date on the tire yet. I'm gonna replace the front soon and go from there.

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