mindt Posted June 27, 2017 #1 Posted June 27, 2017 Last fall I had a float stick or needle fail and my crank case filled up with gas and wrecked the motor. I have installed a new used one and I'm having a couple issues. First is the neutral safety switch isn't working, but I may not have plugged it back in. Where is the wire located? Two, me being old school, I gravity blead the clutch. After about half a pint I put everything back together and there was absolutely no pressure. Now it won't run out even. Do I need a mechanical bleeder. Thanks all who look.
Du-Rron Posted June 28, 2017 #2 Posted June 28, 2017 Last fall I had a float stick or needle fail and my crank case filled up with gas and wrecked the motor. I have installed a new used one and I'm having a couple issues. First is the neutral safety switch isn't working, but I may not have plugged it back in. Where is the wire located? Two, me being old school, I gravity blead the clutch. After about half a pint I put everything back together and there was absolutely no pressure. Now it won't run out even. Do I need a mechanical bleeder. Thanks all who look. A copy of the service manual is available on here and the neutral switch diags are in there starting on page 8-1. As for the clutch, they are real tough to bleed if you have emptied it of fluid. I have had luck with a vacuum bleeder. Day 1. Fill & bleed clutch. Zip-tie clutch lever to handlebar overnight. Day 2. Fill & bleed clutch again.
mindt Posted June 28, 2017 Author #3 Posted June 28, 2017 Thank you. I have never dealt with a hydraulic clutch before this bike. I've had it now for about 5 years with no issues. I'm getting to know it quite intimately. My dad was a mechanic while I was growing up, and I learned quite a lot from him, but this has been quite a project.
mindt Posted June 29, 2017 Author #4 Posted June 29, 2017 A copy of the service manual is available on here and the neutral switch diags are in there starting on page 8-1. As for the clutch, they are real tough to bleed if you have emptied it of fluid. I have had luck with a vacuum bleeder. Day 1. Fill & bleed clutch. Zip-tie clutch lever to handlebar overnight. Day 2. Fill & bleed clutch again. I'm having some difficulty finding the service manual you mentioned. Help please
BlueSky Posted June 29, 2017 #5 Posted June 29, 2017 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3384-First-Gen-Service-Manuals
Rafterd Posted June 29, 2017 #6 Posted June 29, 2017 If your old school, bleed the clutch old school. Start at the master cylinder, pump the lever 3 times, hold it, loosen the banjo bolt. Do that till no air comes out. Then move to the clutch bleeder valve. Do the same thing till no air comes out. Don't let the master cylinder go dry, or you'll have to start over.
Du-Rron Posted June 29, 2017 #7 Posted June 29, 2017 I'm having some difficulty finding the service manual you mentioned. Help please Actually, if you have a 2000 RSV, the service manual is over here at: http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/index.cfm
mindt Posted July 15, 2017 Author #8 Posted July 15, 2017 Woo hoo I fired it up today. Started immediately and ran just as it should. I took it off the lift and took it outside. Sitting in neutral reving it, it seemed to be just fine. I clicked it into first gear and went down the driveway. I turned onto the co rd and when I shifted to second it started missing on the right side. Slowing to a stop it cleared up. Take off in first gear it's great, shift to second missing. Misses all the way to OD. First gear is great. Any ideas.
mindt Posted July 15, 2017 Author #9 Posted July 15, 2017 The bike is a 2000 the motor is from a 2007. If that matters. Everything hooked up with no issues so I can't believe there would be anything to do with that.
djh3 Posted July 16, 2017 #10 Posted July 16, 2017 So how long did the motor sit? Did they pickle it? (run some oil in cyl prior to it sitting) I would bet it is carb related. Maybe some Berrymans or Seafoam. Does it pul hard in first? IE high RPM's New plugs? What do they look like? Are you using the coils etc from your engine or did they come with the motor?
mindt Posted July 16, 2017 Author #11 Posted July 16, 2017 I put new plugs in while the motor was out of the bike. I am using my existing coils and CDI. I can wack the throttle in first and it pulls perfectly all the way up. Misses after I shift. The old motor ran great until it crapped out. I do think it's carb related but it's just strange that it works fine in first but not any other gear.
sldunker Posted July 16, 2017 #12 Posted July 16, 2017 Are you using the stock air filter and housing? Using none stock can give all sorts of problems.
BlueSky Posted July 16, 2017 #13 Posted July 16, 2017 It does sound like it may be running out of fuel. But, if it is only doing it on a couple of cylinders, it could be dirty carbs. Maybe shotgun the carbs? Ignition problems seem to be worse in the higher gears too. I deleted my photobucket account, so maybe this annoying tag will go away tomorrow when their people go back to work and act on my deletion.
mindt Posted July 16, 2017 Author #14 Posted July 16, 2017 Stock air cleaners are in place. I've had that lesson a couple years ago when I took it for a ride after doing some work on it. Not good. I'm gonna pull the carbs and give em a good scrubbing and see what happens.
mindt Posted July 22, 2017 Author #15 Posted July 22, 2017 Gah. This is totally ass backwards. I took the tank off and took the air boxes off. I rigged up a gas can on the passenger foot rest. I fired it up just to check the slide operation, which appeared to be working correctly. Back it out of shop and go for a ride. Runs great. Back to shop, put air boxes back on, go for ride. Runs like ****. Back to shop, take air boxes back off, go for ride, runs great. Jetting in the new carbs? I'm getting so frustrated with the whole thing.
Du-Rron Posted July 23, 2017 #16 Posted July 23, 2017 Well... you narrowed it down to fuel. Plugged filter on fuel tank petcock? Crapo in bottom of tank? ??? Floats sticking???
mindt Posted July 28, 2017 Author #17 Posted July 28, 2017 Well here ya go. Turns out the lowers need to be in place in order to run right. The carb vent tube that dead heads behind the lower was causing a positive pressure in the carburetor when the lower was not installed. It came to me in my sleep the other night. Runs great now. Sorry I sounded a little whiney about it, but it's been torn apart since February. We don't get a whole lot of ride time here in Minnesota.
mindt Posted July 28, 2017 Author #18 Posted July 28, 2017 Thanks to all who gave suggestions. Hopefully someone else will benefit from my stupidity. Kickstands up and rubber down, Mike.
Flyinfool Posted July 28, 2017 #19 Posted July 28, 2017 Glad you figured it out while there is still a week or two of riding season left before the flies.
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