Reverse bleeding?

[Bulldawg]

I replaced front disc pads - and naturally, front brake lever has no resistance whatsoever now. I'm reading out here about "reverse bleeding" using a syringe or something - I take I'm supposed to remove bleeder valve, and squirt dot 3 into the opening with a syringe or something similar. Does that sound right?

 

I'm assuming dot 3 will eventually overflow out...then what? Put bleeder valve back on and see if pressure builds up? Or try bleeding it normally? Reservoir on handlebar is full.

 

I wanted to change out rear pads, but my saddlebag on that side does not want to come off and I don't want to force it. It's almost as if the key lock isnt working right. Doesnt seem to be enough room to pull that caliper off with saddle bag on. Any suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance.

[Eck]

Cheap way to bleed your brakes..

you can take an empty clear plastic soda bottle, and punch a small hole in the cap.

Insert a clear rubber hose that fits onto the bleeder fitting into the hole in the cap and into the bottle...

Now place some RTV silicone around the rubber hose on the cap and let it set for about two hours to cure.

Now place the bleeder wrench on the bleeder.

Grasp the plastic drink bottle and squeeze it to remove some of the air..

While holding that squeeze on the bottle, slip the clear rubber hose over the bleeder.

Loosen the bleeder with the wrench.

Slowly let your squeezing off the plastic bottle, and it will suck the brake fluid thru the lines and into the plastic bottle thus removing all the air...

Keep your eye on the master cyclinder so it does not run empty or you will be sucking air back into the line...

Refill master cylinder and your done!

[Squidley]

Rick,

I dont want to change your mind on the reverese bleed, but there is an easier way....Speedbleeders.

I have had a set on my last bike and I can tell you that I changed out the entire fluid in all of the hydraulic systems in less than 20 minutes. I have removed lines and cleaned them out and installed with nothing in the system. Put the speedbleeders on fill the reservors and it was so fast and easy that I wont do it any other way. Just a thought to poder on....here's the site http://www.speedbleeder.com/

[FreezyRider]

Rick,

 

I dont want to change your mind on the reverese bleed, but there is an easier way....Speedbleeders.

 

I have had a set on my last bike and I can tell you that I changed out the entire fluid in all of the hydraulic systems in less than 20 minutes. I have removed lines and cleaned them out and installed with nothing in the system. Put the speedbleeders on fill the reservors and it was so fast and easy that I wont do it any other way. Just a thought to poder on....here's the site http://www.speedbleeder.com/

 

 

I just installed Speedbleeders last Saturday while replacing brakes on my Goldwing. YUP, best thing I ever did for myself!! Can't believe that I did it the hard way for so many years. I don't know who invented these things, but that dude has my gratitude. I changed all the brake fluid as well as the clutch fluid, can't believe the difference it made in how my clutch feels. Kinda like changing shock absorbers on your car....you don't really know how bad they are until you change them. Same thing with the clutch fluid.

Make the investment, you won't be sorry.

 

Joe

[Condor]

Yep, I got carried away and replaced all 6 of my bleeders on my '83 with speed bleeders. Don't have any trouble bleeding the brakes, but do have trouble once in a while with the clutch fluid. The air rises faster than fluid can flow down the line. So I usually end up reverse bleeding the clutch. Which ever way you end up going make absolutely sure you get all the air out of the '83's lines. The brakes need all the help they can get....

[DaveDanger]

There's an even easier way to bleed brakes that doesn't require anything complicated, Speedbleeders® are nice, I have them on my GS850, but they're not necessary to bleed easily.

Go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a 10' roll of 3/16" inside diameter clear vinyl tubing (plumbing section), very cheap, about $3.00. The length isn't critical, as long as it will reach from the farthest caliper to the reservoir, 6' will usually work fine. Cut it if you desire, or leave it full length, doesn't matter.

Slip a boxed end wrench over the bleeder nipple at the caliper you need to bleed, then slide one end of the vinyl tubing over the same nipple. (Using a bench grinder, I have thinned down a spare boxed end wrench that fits the brake bleeder nipple, to provide maximum area for the vinyl tube to fit). Remove the cap from the appropriate reservoir, and place the other end of the vinyl tube in the reservoir.

 

(Always use the proper practices with brake fluid, regardless of the method you use... if you spill it on your paint or polished aluminum, wipe it away quickly and wash thoroughly with strong soapy water. Brake fluid will strip paint and corrode polished aluminum).

 

Crack the bleeder nipple open and leave it open... begin slowly pumping the brake lever. The fluid will be forced to circulate in a loop. Through the sysem normally, out the bleeder nipple and back up to the reservoir. If there is any air in the system, you will see it coming out in the vinyl tube. ALL your fluid returns back into the reservoir, and the air is purged out as it circulates. When no more air is seen, there is no more air in the system. Close the bleeder nipple, remove the vinyl tube, close the reservoir after making sure it's filled properly.

 

(After I've bled a system this way, I take a pair of golf tees and plug the vinyl tubing ends to trap the brake fluid inside. That way, every time I connect and use the tube, I don't have to pump it full of fluid first. Coil it up and hang it from a nail on the wall).

 

One person can easily bleed any brake/clutch system this way. With a long enough vinyl tubing, it works on cars, trucks, motorcycles, airplanes. (Different fluid and tubes for airplanes) Always start at the farthest caliper from the reservoir, and work your way to the closest.

I use this method almost daily. It works. It works with or without Speedbleeders®.

[bobcat]

I replaced front disc pads - and naturally, front brake lever has no resistance whatsoever now. I'm reading out here about "reverse bleeding" using a syringe or something - I take I'm supposed to remove bleeder valve, and squirt dot 3 into the opening with a syringe or something similar. Does that sound right?

 

I'm assuming dot 3 will eventually overflow out...then what? Put bleeder valve back on and see if pressure builds up? Or try bleeding it normally? Reservoir on handlebar is full.

 

I wanted to change out rear pads, but my saddlebag on that side does not want to come off and I don't want to force it. It's almost as if the key lock isnt working right. Doesnt seem to be enough room to pull that caliper off with saddle bag on. Any suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Pulling off the saddlebag on the rt side shouldn't be a problem...I use a 10mm socket with a 1/4 in rachet and extension..take off every 10mm bolt or cap you see inside the case and it should come out easy.....Also

 

I never knew there were so many ways to bleed brakes..I must be a dinosaur because I can't think of anything easier to do on a bike then bleeding brakes the old fashioned way...Its always worked for me

[KarlS]

As far as your saddle bag goes on my 83 my hard bag on my brake caliper side has a bad lock on it also. The lock works like a house door lock. Meaning with the saddle bag lock locked you can push the saddle bag forward to install it and latch pushes in then catches. So I take a long handle screwdriver and going in from the front of the saddle bag I just push the latch in and slide the bag reward and it pops right off. Hope I explained good enough so you can picture what I did.

Edited August 27, 2009 by KarlS
correction

[83VR3711]

I wanted to change out rear pads, but my saddlebag on that side does not want to come off and I don't want to force it. It's almost as if the key lock isnt working right.

Thanks in advance.

 

An easy way to get the bags off is to use a screw driver and push the little tab (that holds it in place) in and the bag comes right off. I do not have the key that removes my bags so that what I have to do everytime. Works like a champ on the bags and the trunk.

 

Hope this helps,

--Clay

[Venturous Randy]

I gave up on my side bag locks a long time ago after taking them apart and greasing several times.

Now, I take the three phillips head screws out that hold the lock on and slide it back and lift the bag off. When I put the bag on, I place the latch assembly on the catch and push it in place and put the screws back in.

On getting the bleeding started, sometimes it helps to remove the line at the master cylinder and use your finger as a check valve when you squeeze the lever. Just cover everything up good. The paint and especially the plastic does not like brake fluid.

RandyA

[Condor]

Rick,

 

I dont want to change your mind on the reverese bleed, but there is an easier way....Speedbleeders. http://www.speedbleeder.com/

 

I agree. On the lever/right front caliper there's no need to reverse bleed. It's a straight shot up from the caliper to the master. MOF it's the easiest brake caliper to bleed. Reverse bleeding only works when air gets trapped in the lines, because of line route, or in the case of the clutch slave, the system. Pick up a set of Speed Bleeders directly from the website above.

[Yammer Dan]

There's an even easier way to bleed brakes that doesn't require anything complicated, Speedbleeders® are nice, I have them on my GS850, but they're not necessary to bleed easily.

Go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a 10' roll of 3/16" inside diameter clear vinyl tubing (plumbing section), very cheap, about $3.00. The length isn't critical, as long as it will reach from the farthest caliper to the reservoir, 6' will usually work fine. Cut it if you desire, or leave it full length, doesn't matter.

Slip a boxed end wrench over the bleeder nipple at the caliper you need to bleed, then slide one end of the vinyl tubing over the same nipple. (Using a bench grinder, I have thinned down a spare boxed end wrench that fits the brake bleeder nipple, to provide maximum area for the vinyl tube to fit). Remove the cap from the appropriate reservoir, and place the other end of the vinyl tube in the reservoir.

 

(Always use the proper practices with brake fluid, regardless of the method you use... if you spill it on your paint or polished aluminum, wipe it away quickly and wash thoroughly with strong soapy water. Brake fluid will strip paint and corrode polished aluminum).

 

Crack the bleeder nipple open and leave it open... begin slowly pumping the brake lever. The fluid will be forced to circulate in a loop. Through the sysem normally, out the bleeder nipple and back up to the reservoir. If there is any air in the system, you will see it coming out in the vinyl tube. ALL your fluid returns back into the reservoir, and the air is purged out as it circulates. When no more air is seen, there is no more air in the system. Close the bleeder nipple, remove the vinyl tube, close the reservoir after making sure it's filled properly.

 

(After I've bled a system this way, I take a pair of golf tees and plug the vinyl tubing ends to trap the brake fluid inside. That way, every time I connect and use the tube, I don't have to pump it full of fluid first. Coil it up and hang it from a nail on the wall).

 

One person can easily bleed any brake/clutch system this way. With a long enough vinyl tubing, it works on cars, trucks, motorcycles, airplanes. (Different fluid and tubes for airplanes) Always start at the farthest caliper from the reservoir, and work your way to the closest.

I use this method almost daily. It works. It works with or without Speedbleeders®.

 

Sounds Good. I'll have to try this.

[Condor]

One person can easily bleed any brake/clutch system this way. With a long enough vinyl tubing, it works on cars, trucks, motorcycles, airplanes. (Different fluid and tubes for airplanes) Always start at the farthest caliper from the reservoir, and work your way to the closest.

I use this method almost daily. It works. It works with or without Speedbleeders®.

 

Sounds like a good idea. My only question is, are you recycling used or possibly dirty fluid back thru the system? The factory recomends flushing out the system every two years to rid the lines of moisture.

[Yammer Dan]

Sounds like a good idea. My only question is, are you recycling used or possibly dirty fluid back thru the system? The factory recomends flushing out the system every two years to rid the lines of moisture.

 

Good Point. Would be good if you didn't need to change fluid.

[DaveDanger]

It even works if you need to flush out old fluid. Do all the steps as detailed above, but don't put the end of the tubing into the reservoir to begin with. Insert it into a waste container and pump the lever until the reservoir is ALMOST empty. DON'T allow the reservoir to empty completely or you'll be introducing new air into the system.

Fill the reservoir with fresh fluid as it gets low, and continue the same procedure until you see fresh fluid coming out the end of your vinyl tubing. At that point, pull the end of the tubing from the waste container and insert the tubing into the reservoir and continue pumping until you have no bubbles, same as above. Usually by the time you have fresh fluid coming out of the tubing, there's no air left in the system.

[bongobobny]

If your entire system wsa emptied, the only really effective way is to use a vacuum pump to bleed the brakes. Speed bleeders are also the cat's meow...