1st Gen LED Headlight

[videoarizona]

Old. I really don't like that word. But that's how I feel today.

 

I got my LED bulbs in today....these....

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FJS9W24/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Since the 2nd Gen is up in Phoenix and I'm home with the 1st Gen, thought I would see how involved it is to put one of the LEDs in the 89. Easy peasy...everything fit perfectly....except the RLU gets in the way. Only high beam! That's when I remembered....oh yea....I have to modify the RLU. Old. What memory.....?

 

BTW, the light was really bright!

Grins...

 

When I get ambitious, I'll make the mod and put the LED in. But not today.

[Flyinfool]

Yup, remove and jumper the RLU, You may have to jumper the 2 headlight circuits in the CMU if the LED does not pull enough amps to turn off the warning light. If the LED bulb does not have a battery direct feed wire you may not have to remove the RLU. I am guessing that it is real close to pulling enough power to let the RLU still do its thing, since you said the RLU is OK on HI beam.

[Not That Guy]

Link to this fix? Might need to do this soon

[videoarizona]

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?92274-How-do-you-quot-Jumper-the-CMU-quot-for-LED-s-bulbs-to-prevent-the-warning-light-coming-on&highlight=jumpers

[cimmer]

There is another link out there with just cutting off the connector from the RLU and soldering some of the wires together and that will get rid of the headlight warning light also. I did that to mine when I added my LED headlight and that did the trick of killing the warning light. Check post #17 is this thread.. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?109958-Reserve-Lighting-Unit-(RSU)-Bypass-1988-Venture-Royale/page2&highlight=reserve+lighting+unit

 

Rick F.

[camos]

There is another link out there with just cutting off the connector from the RLU and soldering some of the wires together and that will get rid of the headlight warning light also. I did that to mine when I added my LED headlight and that did the trick of killing the warning light. Check post #17 is this thread.. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?109958-Reserve-Lighting-Unit-(RSU)-Bypass-1988-Venture-Royale/page2&highlight=reserve+lighting+unit

 

Rick F.

Rather than cutting off the RLU connector and then soldering wires together, it is way easier to just poke some jumper wires into the appropriate slots. I did this on my 90 VR. There is a thread that explains which wires need to be connected but so far I have not been able to find it.

[videoarizona]

Another day....89 VR Led install. Modifying the RLU

 

Taking Clive's advice I searched and found two different threads concerning jumpering the RLU connector.

AND to make it more fun, the wires to be jumpered are different in the threads!

 

So...member 1 used this configuration:

 

1: Blue/white to blue/black

2: Black to yellow

3: yellow/green to red/yellow

 

Member 2 did it this way...

 

1: Green/White to Blue/Black to Blue/white

2: Yellow/green to Blue/red

3: Black to light/green

 

I opted for member #2 's wiring. Didn't work. no head light. (still has normal bulb in at this point)

As well as....no Green/White wire on connector...either end. ???

 

 

 

 

 

I chose #2 because I thought his bike was newer...not an older 1st gen.

 

So @camos or anyone with a MK2 1st Gen that did this mod....can you confirm which is the proper wires to jumper on the RLU?

Thanks!

Edited May 20, 2017 by videoarizona

[cimmer]

Looking over my RLU wires, I think the Green/White should be the Green/Red. My RLU doesn't have the G/W in its wiring harness but it does have a G/R. My high beams indicator does function properly and I dont have any alarms showing on the computer panel either. Also looking closing at the picture in post #1 of this tread, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?109958-Reserve-Lighting-Unit-(RSU)-Bypass-1988-Venture-Royale&highlight=reserve+lighting+unit , you can tell he actually used the Green/Red. Try that and see if that makes a difference for you.

So connect the wires like this:

 

Tie Green/Red + Blue/Black + Blue/White together.

 

Tie Yellow/Green + Blue/Red together

 

Tie Black + Light Green together

 

Hope that helps.

Rick F.

[videoarizona]

Thanks Rick. Will give it a try tomorrow afternoon...

[videoarizona]

@cimmer had it right! LED works and high/low beam works too.

 

Later today I'll post pics of jumpers and left over parts...then move on to the CMS. Next step is to jumper it as well. Might just do all the jumpers so I can change all light to LEDs at my leisure without taking the dash apart again!

Do hate to lose the light bulb out functions, but life goes on.

 

Thanks for the confirmation on the jumpers Rick...

[camos]

 

So camos or anyone with a MK2 1st Gen that did this mod....can you confirm which is the proper wires to jumper on the RLU?

Thanks!

Here is a pic of the connector jumpers on my 90 VR. Got camera problems so it's kind of crappy. Hopefully the white wires can be seen against the white plug.

 

 

It looks to me that one of your jumpers is not going into the right hole.

 

On second thought, after rotating the images so they have the same orientation, it looks like yours is the same as mine. Any chance one of your wires is not making a good connection in the plug?

[videoarizona]

 

Done!

 

Lots of fun getting the dash out. Actually only 2 bolts hold it in place...if you elect to take the little frame out with it. Otherwise it's 4 bolts that are a bear to get to.

 

 

Recap...above pic shows the almost right connections on the RLU. Instead, as Rick mentioned, I needed to add one more jumper...4 total.

 

 

See jumpers in above pic. This worked with my 89. High/low beam works, high beam light on dash works.

Disregard where I'm pointing....those are the wrong bolts to take out. I don't have a pic of the 2 bolts that will lift up the entire assembly....except I'm holding onto the assembly here...

 

 

Below my finger, on each side, are two holes...those are the 2 bolts to take the entire assembly out. In order to reach them, I had to loosen both top fairings so I could spread the tops enough to get my hands in there....and yes KIC, that rachet wrench helped alot! The only issue I had getting bike back together was the nut for the speedo cable dropped down...so had to fish that back up through the lowers and wires. Next two pics show the front end apart.

 

 

The speedo cable on the left(above) is pointing to one of the 2 holes that I took the bolts out of to remove the cluster and it's small frame.

 

 

 

I soldered the jumpers to the CMS so now all my lights can be changed to LED bulbs. Sad to lose the functionality of the warnings that Yamaha put in there. But ...

 

 

But the above pic helped a lot.

 

I closed her back up but had two screws left over. I think they went to shroud around the instrument cluster, but the 2 screws were still in the side of the cluster as the shroud simply lifts off them. So who knows??? I'm not taking her apart to find out!

 

 

Basically: The front trim comes off, windshield off. take off the CLASS panel and move out of way, pull the radio panel. Undo the screws holding the top panels in place. Spread the panels. Take off the shroud by loosening the two brass looking screws on either side of the cluster. Reach in a carefully take out the 2 bolts holding the entire assembly to the frame. Lift a touch and disconnect the wire plugs going to the cluster. Remove cluster.

 

Take cluster apart by removing the 3 screws holding together, lift off the top part of the CMS be removing 1 screw holding the two halves of the board together. Solder the jumpers after carefully making sure you have the right points on the board. Use a sharp pointed soldering pencil as the clearance between some of the points on the board are tight!

 

Put all back together.

 

Done. Tonight after pizza with friends, I'll go for a ride and test out the light as well as take time to aim...

 

 

UPDATE: Light is much better than stock. Pattern is nice. The lens doesn't seem to hurt the LED at all. I'm good with this. For under $60...got two bulbs and installed them in each Venture. Plus, saved a couple of amps too.

Edited May 21, 2017 by videoarizona

[KIC]

So how did the night ride go ?

[videoarizona]

So how did the night ride go ?

 

Excellent! All dialed in. Nice pattern. I really like the wide pattern on low beam. Even if I adjust the led down more than normal, the high beam takes up the slack with a nice long throw.

 

I think Broview did a very good job engineering these bulbs.

[syscrusher]

I got my LED bulbs in today....these....

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FJS9W24/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Easy peasy...everything fit perfectly....except the RLU gets in the way. Only high beam! That's when I remembered....oh yea....I have to modify the RLU. Old. What memory.....?

 

When I get ambitious, I'll make the mod and put the LED in. But not today.

 

That's interesting. I got these "Dazzlers" and installed one in my 1993 tonight. It gives me a headlight out warning but Low/High selection is fine, so I 'spose the RLU won't need to be jumpered for me. It says they consume 30W each. I was wondering exactly how high the amp draw needs to be to act like incandescent H4s. Low beam on some is 45W. Dirty contacts would raise resistance and drop current without causing full failure, or would dirty contacts act like a dielectric? So 45W is 3.75 amps and 30W is 2.5 amps and the difference is 1.25 amps. It's too late now but I don't understand why the current threshold wasn't just an amp. What failure mode (dirty contacts?) did Yamaha hope to detect with a higher cut-off?

 

BTW, these things seem too bright really. I know I'm going to get some reactions from other drivers.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRV4MGS/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

[videoarizona]

As long as the pattern is good on low beam... You should be good to go. I like being able to adjust beam on the road. Out here I want my low beams as high as I can go without opposing drivers getting blinded. To many 4 and 2 legged creatures wandering the roads in the desert at night.

I chose a passive cooling...I was concerned about the fan failures others have had.. As well as possible electrical interference in the audio system from fan motor.

 

They look like a good choice as well.

[syscrusher]

As long as the pattern is good on low beam... You should be good to go. I like being able to adjust beam on the road. Out here I want my low beams as high as I can go without opposing drivers getting blinded. To many 4 and 2 legged creatures wandering the roads in the desert at night.

I chose a passive cooling...I was concerned about the fan failures others have had.. As well as possible electrical interference in the audio system from fan motor.

 

They look like a good choice as well.

 

These are much more aim-able than the HID bulb I had but even though other motorists aren't being hit directly by the bright light I think they're still aware of it and a little put off.

I had read reviews of another product similar to the Dazzle complaining about radio interference and so steered clear of that one. I haven't noticed emi trouble from the Dazzle.

The sellers of the Dazzle seemed to be very customer service proactive and so I thought it would be alright to take a chance on it.

I like the fan free design but the one I was considering had a longer cylinder where the Dazzle's fan is and I worried about the fit due to that protrusion.

If I had the one you do, I would try to route those "heat sink" braids down into the opening below the cowling for best air flow. Do those get hot?

[videoarizona]

Snip..

I like the fan free design but the one I was considering had a longer cylinder where the Dazzle's fan is and I worried about the fit due to that protrusion.

If I had the one you do, I would try to route those "heat sink" braids down into the opening below the cowling for best air flow. Do those get hot?

 

Don't know. When I tested for a few minutes, no heat at all. I simply spread the braid out. It was tight in there. I will check later.....and maybe stick my hand up in there to see...

\

[Geobob]

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109200

 

Done!

 

Lots of fun getting the dash out. Actually only 2 bolts hold it in place...if you elect to take the little frame out with it. Otherwise it's 4 bolts that are a bear to get to.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109201

 

Recap...above pic shows the almost right connections on the RLU. Instead, as Rick mentioned, I needed to add one more jumper...4 total.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109202

 

See jumpers in above pic. This worked with my 89. High/low beam works, high beam light on dash works.

Disregard where I'm pointing....those are the wrong bolts to take out. I don't have a pic of the 2 bolts that will lift up the entire assembly....except I'm holding onto the assembly here...

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109203

 

Below my finger, on each side, are two holes...those are the 2 bolts to take the entire assembly out. In order to reach them, I had to loosen both top fairings so I could spread the tops enough to get my hands in there....and yes KIC, that rachet wrench helped alot! The only issue I had getting bike back together was the nut for the speedo cable dropped down...so had to fish that back up through the lowers and wires. Next two pics show the front end apart.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109204

 

The speedo cable on the left(above) is pointing to one of the 2 holes that I took the bolts out of to remove the cluster and it's small frame.

 

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109205

 

I soldered the jumpers to the CMS so now all my lights can be changed to LED bulbs. Sad to lose the functionality of the warnings that Yamaha put in there. But ...

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109206

 

But the above pic helped a lot.

 

I closed her back up but had two screws left over. I think they went to shroud around the instrument cluster, but the 2 screws were still in the side of the cluster as the shroud simply lifts off them. So who knows??? I'm not taking her apart to find out!

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109207

 

Basically: The front trim comes off, windshield off. take off the CLASS panel and move out of way, pull the radio panel. Undo the screws holding the top panels in place. Spread the panels. Take off the shroud by loosening the two brass looking screws on either side of the cluster. Reach in a carefully take out the 2 bolts holding the entire assembly to the frame. Lift a touch and disconnect the wire plugs going to the cluster. Remove cluster.

 

Take cluster apart by removing the 3 screws holding together, lift off the top part of the CMS be removing 1 screw holding the two halves of the board together. Solder the jumpers after carefully making sure you have the right points on the board. Use a sharp pointed soldering pencil as the clearance between some of the points on the board are tight!

 

Put all back together.

 

Done. Tonight after pizza with friends, I'll go for a ride and test out the light as well as take time to aim...

 

 

UPDATE: Light is much better than stock. Pattern is nice. The lens doesn't seem to hurt the LED at all. I'm good with this. For under $60...got two bulbs and installed them in each Venture. Plus, saved a couple of amps too.

 

Is that a Vstar 1300 sitting next to your venture. I had to laugh because I bet we have the same model and color.

[videoarizona]

Is that a Vstar 1300 sitting next to your venture. I had to laugh because I bet we have the same model and color.

 

 

VStar 950 Tourer. Sold it. Wish I hadn't!!

[Geobob]

VStar 950 Tourer. Sold it. Wish I hadn't!!

My wife and I love the 1300 but surprisingly it does not have the power of the Venture. I pull away from her in every gear and I know I out weigh her and so does the bike.

 

I had the Venture out tonight to check out my LED headlight. Fortunately it was aimed correctly because I lost my adjusting nob years ago. Anyone found a good replacement for that. I found that I could not turn the adjuster with my fingers so something needs to be applied. I suppose that used part should not be that hard to find but you never know with these bikes.

 

I was once again struck by just how nice this bike is. I might get a new bike this year but I am really thinking that I just keep this thing. I can never get over the sound and feeling of a V8 motor in there.

[videoarizona]

The HP of the venture should be around 97. I don't know the power of the 1300 but doubt it's near there. Our ventures we very well designed for power and handling...

 

Keep an eye on Pinwall and other motorcycle recyclers on ebay. The adjusting assembly does show up now and then. Other than that, maybe start a new post here asking if anyone has a replacement knob. Or know of a way to replace with something else.

 

Enjoy the Venture and the 1300!!

[greenbeenie]

That's interesting. I got these "Dazzlers" and installed one in my 1993 tonight. It gives me a headlight out warning but Low/High selection is fine, so I 'spose the RLU won't need to be jumpered for me. It says they consume 30W each. I was wondering exactly how high the amp draw needs to be to act like incandescent H4s. Low beam on some is 45W. Dirty contacts would raise resistance and drop current without causing full failure, or would dirty contacts act like a dielectric? So 45W is 3.75 amps and 30W is 2.5 amps and the difference is 1.25 amps. It's too late now but I don't understand why the current threshold wasn't just an amp. What failure mode (dirty contacts?) did Yamaha hope to detect with a higher cut-off?

 

BTW, these things seem too bright really. I know I'm going to get some reactions from other drivers.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRV4MGS/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

 

 

Did you have any problems with the length of the length fit? Some LED bulbs are too long to fit properly with the cooling fan attached to the ass end of them. Is your bike a 1993 Venture Royale, or a 1993 Venture Royal Star?

 

Also the picture on Amazon doesn't show the connector. What is that 'blue box' to the right of the bulb picture that says I3 Turbo LED, Power 30W EMC?

 

Edited July 23, 2018 by greenbeenie

[Prairiehammer]

Did you have any problems with the length of the length fit? Some LED bulbs are too long to fit properly with the cooling fan attached to the ass end of them. Is your bike a 1993 Venture Royale, or a 1993 Venture Royal Star?

 

Also the picture on Amazon doesn't show the connector. What is that 'blue box' to the right of the bulb picture that says I3 Turbo LED, Power 30W EMC?

 

 

The blue box is the controller.

 

 

I put an LED H4 bulb (a different brand) in my 1991. It had a cooling fan. Other than the rubber boot around the bulb on the original H4 not fitting, I had no issues with getting the LED bulb in.

 

BTW, there is/was no 1993 Royal Star.

 

And welcome to VRO as a Supporting Member greenbeenie.

Edited July 23, 2018 by Prairiehammer

[frankd]

Has anybody checked for RFI (radio frequency interference) with these new LED headlight kits? I had an LED headlight kit installed in my 89, and I really liked it, UNTIL I moved down here to Tennessee. I'm 70 miles from Nashville, and of course the radio signals aren't very strong here. I found that my LED kit was making so much interference that it would block just about all of the FM signals down here. You could tell if it's radiating RFI---tune in a weak FM station with the key on accessory. Then turn the key to ON and see if the station can still be heard OK. Mine was so bad that I re-installed the incandescent headlight.

 

Frank