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Posted

The past couple days I've been working on the rear brakes. I changed the tires and just not satisfied with the rear brake. Yesterday I thought I had it and took the bike out for a short ride across town. Still not right so today I got some new pads and cleaned the cylinders good before pushing them back in. Then I noticed I had lost the pin and cotter pin. OK this is where I have to improvise another pin since I don't have time to order my trip. I discovered that the "S" shaped hook on the ends of my rubber straps fit the same size so with my vise I was able to straighten it out and with help of a tie strap it can't get out. I have another pin and clip ordered but may not arrive by the time i leave. Sometimes you got to do what you got to do...

 

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Posted

Skid were you ever a enduro rider? Them guys were the orignal Mcgivers. Myrtle Beach and relaxation go together. Enjoy yourself.:thumbsup:

Posted (edited)

I was a State employee and never was use to having what I needed. So I learned to improvise with what I had to work with. Hopefully the new pin will be here before I leave on Monday.

Edited by Skid
Posted

Jeff,

Glad you figured it out. MacGyver move for sure.

The RSV is notorious for eating screws nuts and bolts. There are so many nooks and crannies on her that it's easy to loose things.

Next time you're at Harbor Freight check out the stainless steel bolt trays with magnet. They will

hold the bolts and pins in place, in the order you took them out.

Posted
I lost this one on the road.

 

I lose stuff all the time working on bikes in my barn. There are old wide pine boards for the floor. In days gone by the hooves from the cows that used to be in there wore the pine done down leaving the harder knots sticking up all over the place. Every once in a while, I use a magnet from a roller tool that roofers use to pick up nails in yards to go over the floor . It's amazing what I pick up. But the again, I have lost things that are right in front of me and have spent hours looking for them.

 

I have never lost anything on the road though. Err, that's not true. Last summer, I replaced the thermostat in my truck, filled the radiator, closed the hood and drove to the hardware store. Almost. I got about 1/4 mile down the road when I heard a loud bang/crunch noise so I pulled over immediately. When I got out to open the hood, I saw antifreeze dripping. When I opend the hood to see what the noise was, I saw my 3/8" ratchet stuck in the radiator and the fan blades all bent up.

 

Did someone forget a cotter pin maybe? Just kidding. Great McGuyver by the way. I'm sure most of us "do it yourselfers" have been there in someway.

Posted (edited)
Did someone forget a cotter pin maybe? Just kidding. Great McGuyver by the way. I'm sure most of us "do it yourselfers" have been there in someway.

 

I put the cotter pin in but may not have got in the hole.

Edited by Skid
Posted

Question: Does anyone else experience the rear brake disc getting hotter than the fronts when applying all brakes together? And is it normal for the rear to be hotter?

Posted

Not sure, kind of makes sense because front has two discs as the rear only has one. But you would think they would be right around the same temperature.

 

Sent from my LG-K371 using Tapatalk

Posted
I put the cotter pin in but may not have got in the hole.

 

Saw your reply and decided not to reply, but now can't resist.

Yes I can. No, I can't.

It's too easy. No it isn't. But yes it is a the same time.:rotf:

 

You're twisting my mind!

Posted (edited)

Thought about things over night and remembered how full the reservoir was . So I decided to remove some of the brake fluid to release any pressure as well

Edited by Skid
Posted
Question: Does anyone else experience the rear brake disc getting hotter than the fronts when applying all brakes together? And is it normal for the rear to be hotter?

 

 

 

Rear Master overfull or need to bleed.

Posted

The rear disc still seems to be running hotter than I think it should be. Just put Ride-On in the tires and took for short ride to spread it out.

Posted

On both of my 1st Gens, the rear brake runs hotter than the fronts. The fronts are out in the cool air so they've got good ventilation. The rear is behind the motor and the cool air is blocked. If you can get the rear tire off the ground, spin it and see how hard it is to turn but remember you're also turning over the drive line. I don't know about the 2nd gens., but on 1st gens if you get the axle washer on the right side in the wrong position, the brakes will not release correctly.

 

Of course we have to agree on what is HOT. On mine, I seem to remember that even with gentle usage, when I get it into the garage I can't touch the rear rotor whereas the fronts are merely WARM.

Posted

The rear caliper on both my ventures run a touch hotter than the fronts. However, they are not that hot. I can easily touch the calipers and rotors..

Good move, getting some of the fluid out, Skid. I bet that helped.

Posted

Ok thanks guys. Mine are about like Frank's. The rear is too hot to touch even when you're not using them.

Posted

UPDATE:

 

The parts I ordered from Partszilla with priority two days shipping obviously not a good idea. I sent and email to them and nicely complained about paying for two day shipping and not receiving them. Today I got an email from them stating that parts will be delivered this Wednesday. (6 days) So in their email it stated if I had any other problems to let them know. Well I did. Another email with the dates and delayed shipping. I immediately received another email stating that they would refund me the extra cost I was out for the two day shipping. $2 is $2. Won't break me up but it's the principle

Posted

On the 2 day shipping. I've found that most shippers count from day after pick up to the day of hand off. A lot of parcels get handed to the good old post office for final delivery. so if the pick up on tuesday the two days are wednesday and thursday. If they hand off to the post office on Thursday. they've met their obligation.

 

I don't think removing fluid from the master will help brake lock at all. Master cylinder doesn't have a pressure seal so it could push fluid out. its the check valve that stops fluid from going backer in the wrong direction.

 

AS to heat on the rear caliper, yes it gets hot enough to be uncomfortable to handle, not like skin shriveling hot but very uncomfortable. No air flow. No cross drilling and proximity t downstream exhaust all add to heat build up.

Posted

My thought on the fluid level was after pushing the cylinders back in because of the new pads, the reservoir would be too full and could be holding pressure on the system. Because it was at max level to the point just putting the rubber piece back in under the cap almost had the fluid running out.

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