snyper316 Posted May 4, 2017 #1 Posted May 4, 2017 Ok so today I was trying to make sure I have all my ducks in a row. I ordered the MKII or 87 brake lined on the front as they included the Metering Valve with them. The only difference I see is the fact the 87 has the longer brake line which is just the addition of the bleeder on top to aid in bleeding past the metering valve. Has anyone switched there MKI out to the MKII brakes lines on the front to get the bleeder valve? What I have on order is the Copper washers, the banjo bolt was unavailable so I am hoping mine will work. Another question I had, Is it possible to rebuild the Metering Valves?
bongobobny Posted May 4, 2017 #2 Posted May 4, 2017 Yes, I did mine, and it was plug and play. As far as the metering valve, it is nothing but an orifice so other than maybe cleaning out the hole, there is no real maintenance. The only issue you will run into is how and where to mount the bleeder valve, I just left mine hanging in free space...
Condor Posted May 4, 2017 #3 Posted May 4, 2017 I did the MKII forks, rotors, and R6 caliper swap on my '83. Never thought about swapping out the lines?? Huge improvement in braking without it.
snyper316 Posted May 4, 2017 Author #4 Posted May 4, 2017 I did the MKII forks, rotors, and R6 caliper swap on my '83. Never thought about swapping out the lines?? Huge improvement in braking without it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109132 Well.... That is a future project for me, I have new fork seals and fork work on the 83 before I joined site last year. So when they start leaking on goes the rebuild of the front... If I would have known about this I would have spent the extra $65.00. "Never ride faster then your guardian angel can fly."
CaseyJ955 Posted May 4, 2017 #5 Posted May 4, 2017 Mine is already a MKII but I went too the R6 calipers and Galfer HH pads. I got my calipers off Ebay and they came with some braided line that I was able too use. The factory line is not a good fit with the R6 calipers. Since the calipers were used I did end up popping the pistons and cleaning them out. The improvement in braking ease and power is hard too put into words. When I took off my OEM calipers they were hanging up some and because of their age I decided on the R6 route. I decided too delink my brakes and I'm glad I did, there is a split school of thought on this but I really hated the linking, others like it. When I delinked I plugged the front port and removed the spool from the proportioning valve and put her back together. Amazing results and not cost prohibitive.
Flyinfool Posted May 4, 2017 #6 Posted May 4, 2017 I have to agree, The time and money would be well spent to delink and then the bleeding problem and proportioning valve are gone for good. Every time I go out on the bike I have to traverse pea gravel covered pavement, there were many times I lost the front wheel while using just the rear brake because with the linked brakes it locked the front wheel on the gravel. I have never had an issue with the gravel since I delinked.
Flyinfool Posted May 6, 2017 #8 Posted May 6, 2017 For the rear, just take the front line off the master and plug the hole with a bolt and crush washer. Done. For the front you will need to come up with new brake lines. You can either run a single line down to a splitter and then the two lines to the front calipers. OR. Leave the right line like it is and just add a second line from the master to the left caliper, using a double banjo bolt at the front master. Since you have a MK1 you will probably want to upgrade the front master to a bigger one, Stock is 1/2 inch (12.7mm) the MK2 has a 14mm master (9/16 inch). I just picked up a 16mm master but I have not tried it yet. Most people are happy with the 14mm master. @skydoc_17 sells a delink kit with all the braided stainless lines and instructions.
snyper316 Posted May 7, 2017 Author #9 Posted May 7, 2017 Well for some reason I can not track a bolt down that is short enuff with a head small enough.... I got one but ended up getting a nut with it to possibly make it work but I am not confortable of my own opinion. Just be easier to buy skydocs kit.... So another winter project or as I come up with the money..
CaseyJ955 Posted May 7, 2017 #10 Posted May 7, 2017 Well for some reason I can not track a bolt down that is short enuff with a head small enough.... I got one but ended up getting a nut with it to possibly make it work but I am not confortable of my own opinion. Just be easier to buy skydocs kit.... So another winter project or as I come up with the money.. I now recall how I plugged the front port of the rear MC. I didnt want to go to town and fight traffic so I used the banjo bolt that came out and found a nut just big enough to slip over the banjo bolt. So yea, a nut (in leu of the banjo fitting) with a crush washer on each side, snug er' down good and not a weap. As I put the pieces in order and ran it up finger tight on the MC I could almost hear duelling banjos (no pun intended).
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