Fuel Pump replacement...and best carb clean "how to"

[mcompton1973]

I am probably going to ride it about 400 miles today the way it is. Get a better idea on MPGs and stuff for today....then I will have to mess with brakes this weekend. I was "told" it had rebuilt calipers and new pads....I dont know what condition the lines are in or anything else....so I will have to do some digging I think

[snyper316]

you are talking about 9/10 of a mile on yours....and I am only getting 2/10 or 3/10....so I feel like that is not good at all. lol.

 

First attempt was 3/10, then 2/10 twice, then 3/10....maybe just a little longer on the 4th try...that was the slightly downhill.

Yeh well if you seen my road you would understand the 9/10 of a mile. If you were using same strip of road then that is good test. But wasn't trying to say that you need to go that far, I also like to shut my bike off and listen to things talk to me..

 

Sent from my LG-K371 using Tapatalk

[snyper316]

I am probably going to ride it about 400 miles today the way it is. Get a better idea on MPGs and stuff for today....then I will have to mess with brakes this weekend. I was "told" it had rebuilt calipers and new pads....I dont know what condition the lines are in or anything else....so I will have to do some digging I think

I am pretty sure he had done all that, just because there rebuilt does not mean that they won't stick. Also the rear resovor does not like to be full... This is one thing I wished I could have dipstick for just to make sure it is just full enuff.

 

Sent from my LG-K371 using Tapatalk

[camos]

I am pretty sure he had done all that, just because there rebuilt does not mean that they won't stick. Also the rear resovor does not like to be full... This is one thing I wished I could have dipstick for just to make sure it is just full enuff.

 

Sent from my LG-K371 using Tapatalk

The manual addresses the height of fluid in the rear MC. I can't remember what it actually says but something like just below the bottom of the filler hole when the bike is on the center stand and level. In any case, that is where I have been setting it for years and have never had a lockup due to over filling. If you try filling to that level while on the side stand it will most likely be over filled.

 

There is a cutout on the MkII MC for a level window. Would have been nice if Yamaha had put one in it. Although, the cutout is a little lower than the bottom of the fill hole so perhaps it was decided that level was wrong and so they went with what we have.

[mcompton1973]

470 miles today.

 

Couple of things.

1. MPG still suck. about 24 average. Low of 21. High of 26. Speeds between 55 and 75....most of it around 65-70

2. Bike is running cool. Now....it was only 65 today....so I dont know if that is it...but temp gauge was pointed downward between startup temp and straight out....and I thought normally they liked to be a little warm.

3. I could sometimes smell raw fuel....but I never saw any under the bike or anything...so not sure...couple be obviously related to the mpg

4. I had hours and hours of boring interstate to ride...then about 2 hours of fun in the Ozarks......except it rained the whole time I was on fun roads. I am surprised at how solid it felt in the rain (wasnt POURING.....but it was raining and wet...I was probably more cautious than the bike required.

5. I am still getting used to the bike...but man it just makes me feel confident. It just always goes where I want it to. So much fun.

6. I took a cell phone charger to plug in the cigarette lighter, the lighter worked a week ago....today when I put the charger in it had a small spark, then I couldnt get it to work. I am guessing I blew a fuse, but dont know why.

[snyper316]

Well something isn't right if your smelling raw gas.... Also I have those shims skydoc sells, they do help lean things out. I tried them on tinker and she didn't like then one bit... But that won't help with smelling gas. Where in the Ozarks were you? We didn't get a drop of rain today but the Ozarks could be anywhere from me to Jeff city

 

Sent from my LG-K371 using Tapatalk

[CaseyJ955]

I am probably going to ride it about 400 miles today the way it is. Get a better idea on MPGs and stuff for today....then I will have to mess with brakes this weekend. I was "told" it had rebuilt calipers and new pads....I dont know what condition the lines are in or anything else....so I will have to do some digging I think

 

I got my first clue when I had to use a rubber mallet to get the damn OEM calipers off the rotor, they should wiggle off by hand unless there is a significant ridge around the OD of the rotor from wear, even then though. The R6 calipers still had some drag so I pulled them off to put HH pads on, used air to pop the pistons and cleaned them out good. Green scotchbrite on the pistons, pulled and cleaned the seals and flushed out the bodies. Back together, even with the old seals and they work as new now and I did find a lot of sediment and sludge in then, should have cleaned them out before install but I was being cheap and lazy.

 

The OEM calipers have been on the bike for around 120 years (motorcycle years are like dog years) and I know a great many folks never do the 24 month flush. There could be some gunk in the calipers. "If it aint broke, dont fix it" to some riders/drivers means "if it aint broke, dont maintain it". Brakes and forks all to often get ignored until they completely cease to function, it seems to be the reality on our older bikes.

 

I would have rebuilt my original calipers but the OEM kits were very expensive and the calipers are different sizes, my OCD nature would not let that go.

 

I somehow doubt that the calipers are costing you 10-ish MPG unless they are hanging up bad, if it were me I might wait for a rainy weekend and pop them off and have a peek inside. I suspect your MPG issue lies elsewhere.

[camos]

I somehow doubt that the calipers are costing you 10-ish MPG unless they are hanging up bad, if it were me I might wait for a rainy weekend and pop them off and have a peek inside. I suspect your MPG issue lies elsewhere.

I agree, didn't he say it smelled gassy after a ride? Just guessing here but possibly float levels or blocked jets causing a little overflow?

[snyper316]

I agree, didn't he say it smelled gassy after a ride? Just guessing here but possibly float levels or blocked jets causing a little overflow?

I drove like everyone tell me and lost 5mpg 60 in 4th gear at 4000rpm

 

Sent from my LG-K371 using Tapatalk

[camos]

I drove like everyone tell me and lost 5mpg 60 in 4th gear at 4000rpm

 

Sent from my LG-K371 using Tapatalk

So how were you doing it before? I think keeping to around +/- 3000 RPM should be the most efficient because that is where the max torque is. A fairly obvious test for optimum RPM is if after up-shifting more throttle is required to maintain speed.

[snyper316]

So how were you doing it before? I think keeping to around +/- 3000 RPM should be the most efficient because that is where the max torque is. A fairly obvious test for optimum RPM is if after up-shifting more throttle is required to maintain speed.

 

I given you all crud, I have had a really really crappy day... I was doing fine till I got back home.. long story maybe some other time. Anyways I got 35mpg, but I probably lost my mpg due to having to stop 3 different times to answer the phone when oldest was calling. I was running about 3300 rpms in 5th gear. I was actually shocked I got 35 mpg...

[mcompton1973]

OK.

I need to know how to proceed on the mileage issue.

 

I am going to have to fix the dragging brakes no matter what. I think they affect mpgs some.....but not 15 mpg worth. I dont know what makes THAT big of a difference. The bike is so much fun....but....stopping every 80 miles to fuel is a pain.

 

Here is what I am thinking:

 

Option 1: I take the carbs off the bike. They have already been cleaned with new parts multiple times by the PO...but he never felt he had them right. We have been operating under the assumption that there was just a stuck float, and the transportation kind of fixed that. But here I am trying to figure out the mpgs....so maybe something is still not right from what he was doing before. Might end up being relatively easy, and a lot of the cleaning has been done already.

 

Option 2: I have a parts bike. Its same year. had 67k miles on it when the stator went out 4 years ago. I could pull those carbs off and start fresh trying to rebuild, clean, adjust etc etc and see if that fixes the mpg issues. At least I could ride the bike while I am getting them sorted.

[snyper316]

OK.

I need to know how to proceed on the mileage issue.

 

I am going to have to fix the dragging brakes no matter what. I think they affect mpgs some.....but not 15 mpg worth. I dont know what makes THAT big of a difference. The bike is so much fun....but....stopping every 80 miles to fuel is a pain.

 

Here is what I am thinking:

 

Option 1: I take the carbs off the bike. They have already been cleaned with new parts multiple times by the PO...but he never felt he had them right. We have been operating under the assumption that there was just a stuck float, and the transportation kind of fixed that. But here I am trying to figure out the mpgs....so maybe something is still not right from what he was doing before. Might end up being relatively easy, and a lot of the cleaning has been done already.

 

Option 2: I have a parts bike. Its same year. had 67k miles on it when the stator went out 4 years ago. I could pull those carbs off and start fresh trying to rebuild, clean, adjust etc etc and see if that fixes the mpg issues. At least I could ride the bike while I am getting them sorted.

 

First of all, Option 2 is what I would do. Second of all Shoot for the mid 30's, I am getting the Mid 30s to low 40s. But Oklahoma seems to have speed bumps every 50 feet. Very Crappy roads.... sorry I also noticed on some parts of the roads I would feel like a weeve other parts I was fine but didn't dare do the speed limits. Also I am thinking maybe you have fuel leaking from somewhere. Have you checked the lines under the Gas tank?

 

Fuel drain screws, do they appear wet?

 

Can you see tarnish by your Twinkie?

 

I would check this stuff before pulling the carbs, Also double check your sync. I double checked mine after a few runs and found it off by a smudge and readjusted and went for a ride to Springfield and bakc and checked again and right on where i had set them... its worth a shot.

[mcompton1973]

I never get fuel on my twinkie's they wouldnt taste as good.

:-)

 

You are right....Oklahoma roads are horrible....but I was on good interstate and Arkansas highways.

 

I have not checked anything yet. You have to understand that I dont really know this bike that well yet. I dont know the fuel lines, I dont know where the fuel drain screws are.

 

I dont know where the "twinkie" is.

 

I am going to order that video on the carbs....Any other good resources I should check out on that?

[videoarizona]

Sorry if I'm repeating info... But do you have the shop manual? If yes, read over setting the floats. The Jets and the air cleaner/ intake boots. Clogged jets, leaking intake and floats are probably the top issues with our carbs and the crappy gas we have and the age of the bikes. That and dragging brakes are the top issues with mpgs.

 

Plus, search the older posts here, paying attention to the suggestions at the bottom of every page. They can lead you off into some great areas.... The problem you have had probably been covered at least once over the years... So the solution may be right around the corner.

 

Worse case to all this is you will learn so much about your bike!

 

Also consider changing rear end oil...10 minute job. Then you know that is done. Do the simple things first. Get confident about your abilities with bike.

 

Wishing you luck with this. You will figure it out, but first you have to figure out what the previous owner did or did not do. Make the corrections if necessary, and continue on. I didn't do that. I "assumed" when the dealer said they went through the bike.. that they did. I found out not so. The rear caliper was obviously hardly working when I got bike and I didn't know it until one of our members was telling me he was happy with his brakes... And that's when I checked. Bad on me for not going completely through bike as I learned more and more with the help of the great folks here.

 

Crossing fingers you will enjoy the journey of learning your scoot!!!

[mcompton1973]

The guy I got it from gave me the shop manual on a disk.

 

He went through the carbs multiple times....but obviously something he did not get just quite right. (he was a member here and his trials were pretty well documented)

 

Rear end I know is done. Calipers were "rebuilt" and new pads. I dont think they are de-linked and I dont think that he replaced any lines. That said, the fluid in the sight glass up front is nice and clean. I need to look at the back. I found some other posts that talk about opening bleed screws at different places to isolate the issues. I have not done that yet....but I will.

[camos]

I dont know where the "twinkie" is.

It's the long oval fitting between the V of the cylinders. There is a hose going up to the bottom of the air box that handles crankcase ventilation. The Twinkie itself has oil and coolant running through it so acts like an oil cooler.

 

I am going to order that video on the carbs....Any other good resources I should check out on that?

The VR Tech section probably has almost everything you need to know about maintaining these bikes although probably not in as much detail as the carb video does when it comes to opening them up. Before you open up the carbs make sure you have the rest of the engine running well or you could end up chasing your tail. A few treatments of Seafoam would be a good thing to do before getting into the carbs. Might be all you need to make it through the summer OK.

[mcompton1973]

I feel like the rest of the bike is in good running order. ALL the fluids were done, the progressive springs, new tires, the CLASS system working right.

 

When I ride the bike, it feels strong, and smooth, and good...but the MPGs suck. part of that is the brakes which I will get figured out. I am a little afraid of seafoam right now since the previous owner said the carbs and bike was fine UNTIL he ran seafoam in the tank...lol. Then he pulled carbs I think 5 times before he decided to sell it to me. lol.

 

I probably should pull spark plugs and check them...and check compression. I have not done either of those things.

[camos]

I am a little afraid of seafoam right now since the previous owner said the carbs and bike was fine UNTIL he ran seafoam in the tank...lol. Then he pulled carbs I think 5 times before he decided to sell it to me. lol.

Not to disparage the PO but there are more than a few guys on here who were told a similar story and found it not to be true. Seafoam will not harm your carbs but it does need to have at least a small opening in the jets in order to be able to clean them. It is possible for some crud in the carbs to be loosened and then cause a blockage but if that is the case then the carbs are not working properly to begin with. There are lots of Seafoam threads on here.

 

What I like to do occasionally is to put about 1/3 of a can in half a tank of gas, run it for a few minutes to get the mix into the carbs and then park it overnight for a soak. It can be left to soak for a few days if that is how your schedule works out although, if you have the time start it up and let it idle for a bit to get some new mix into the pilot jets. Take it out for a run and work through the RPM ranges from zero to wide open. If you get any smoke out of the exhaust that indicates the carbs were not clean enough.

 

I probably should pull spark plugs and check them...and check compression. I have not done either of those things.

Yes, check the plugs but don't toss them. Instead wire brush the contacts and check the gap. Running Seafoam in dirty carbs has been known to crud up the plugs. Check that all four plugs are creating a bright spark. Pull the caps off and check the wires are not corroded.

[snyper316]

I use 1 shot of seafoam, per tank 2 to 3 per tank if I run the cheap gas. "Corn fuel" btw Compton you may want to anchor your bike down tonight. Better yet if you have basement put it in there. We gonna have some witches brew for weather... But I had carb problems ran a can of seafoam in full tank and spit sputtered and comblammed, smoked got it to 1 bar refilled and road some more. All the sudden tinker reared up and she was gone!!! The first time I had felt her raw power...

 

Sent from my LG-K371 using Tapatalk

[mcompton1973]

Well, I will run some through her.

I was planning to ride it to work today, so I guess I will Go ahead and grab some seafoam on the way, its about 50 miles each way. I will do that, and then I will ad some more when I let her sit for a couple of days with the bad weather coming as well.

[Trader]

Are you sure it's running on all 4 cylinders?

These bikes run amazingly well on 3!

[videoarizona]

Ya know... Previous post reminded me....

When I first got the 89, I was amazed at the power. But my mpgs were in the low 30's. I figured the problem was in my right wrist. After trying to be good, my mpgs weren't any better. I took off all four plug wires and found the front two were seriously corroded. Cut off 1/2 inch to clean wire... Pushed the ends back in and what a difference.

New plugs and wires a little later and I was up to 42 mpg.... Unless my right wrist got excited!

 

So yes... Wires and plugs.

[mcompton1973]

Are you sure it's running on all 4 cylinders?

These bikes run amazingly well on 3!

 

I "assume" so.

 

I did sync the carbs with a carbtune and was able to get all 4 to balance...so has to be running on 4 right?

[snyper316]

I "assume" so.

 

I did sync the carbs with a carbtune and was able to get all 4 to balance...so has to be running on 4 right?

Nope believe it or not there pumping vacuum yes but not nesarily firing... I ran on 3 cylinder for a while but had one guy keep telling me there was a miss. Its not noticeable but to someone with good ears for it yes. I chased it for a few months come to find out had two bad caps... One would start when the engine got hot and made it pain to start....

 

Sent from my LG-K371 using Tapatalk