RSV Light Bar installation - Spliting the fairing

[BratmanXj]

Few questions on trying to finish up my "winter that turned into spring" modifications.

 

1. I was able to pick up the RS Tour Deluxe mount for free and my understanding was they were identical to the RSV but did not have the deflector mounts. The bar came with SlowRollWV extender, and to me it looks like it could possibly come in contact with the front fender on a big-bump. Anyone ever had an issue with such?

 

Looking at mine compared to this link ( http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?105281-light-bar-extender&highlight ) and it doesn't look much different, but in person it looks off. I remember people putting the gremlin bells on their lower camp and it denting the fenders.

 

2. The bolt for the fairing under the headlight is giving me problems. Went back into the instructions and it shows an Allen head for that screw, but the only extra bolt i have is Philips and it doesn't want to thread in. Do I need to hunt down a missing bolt in my workshop or am I just a duffus who can't put a screw back in?

 

3. Under the engine "cover" is this just a weep hole to drain water from the spark plug valley?

 

[M61A1MECH]

Few questions on trying to finish up my "winter that turned into spring" modifications.

 

3. Under the engine "cover" is this just a weep hole to drain water from the spark plug valley?

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109111

 

Yes, just a drain hole.

[grubsie]

2. The bolt for the fairing under the headlight is giving me problems. Went back into the instructions and it shows an Allen head for that screw, but the only extra bolt i have is Philips and it doesn't want to thread in. Do I need to hunt down a missing bolt in my workshop or am I just a duffus who can't put a screw back in?

 

One thing I have learned when buttoning up the outer fairing is to get the bolt under the headlight started first before moving on to all the other bolts. It typically is an Allen head, but have seen Philips heads also.

 

If you look into the hole where the screw is supposed to go, you will probably notice that outer fairing hole is not lined up with the bracket hole. What I have found best in this situation is to something thinner than the hole like a screwdriver or Allen wrench, slide it in through the fairing front and the bracket hole and use ti to get the holes aligned. If that doesn't work, loosen all allen bolts in the fairing and windshield to get the holes aligned.

[BratmanXj]

One thing I have learned when buttoning up the outer fairing is to get the bolt under the headlight started first before moving on to all the other bolts. It typically is an Allen head, but have seen Philips heads also.

 

Mine feels like it wants to cross-thread. I might need to chase the threads on the clip-nut.

[Pic]

The hole under the engine cover is for the coolant in each cylinder. Looks like it's been leaking coolant and you need to replace the little rubber plug. Go ahead and get 4 new ones and replace all while you are at it. You can use the small threaded end of an old spark plug and screw it into the plug to pull it out.

[BratmanXj]

The hole under the engine cover is for the coolant in each cylinder. Looks like it's been leaking coolant and you need to replace the little rubber plug. Go ahead and get 4 new ones and replace all while you are at it. You can use the small threaded end of an old spark plug and screw it into the plug to pull it out.

 

Already have spare coolant "freeze plugs" in my spare parts drawer, but those are the lower plugs on the cylinder jugs, my photo shows a line of rust coming from a weep hole in the heads. I just wanted to verify it was only a weep hole and not connected to any functional part of the engine.

[Liptoss]

Already have spare coolant "freeze plugs" in my spare parts drawer, but those are the lower plugs on the cylinder jugs, my photo shows a line of rust coming from a weep hole in the heads. I just wanted to verify it was only a weep hole and not connected to any functional part of the engine.

If I'm correct that's the weep hole I use on my Max for clearing the spark plug recess of debris before changing the plugs.

Maybe a rodent has been using the spark plug recess as a urinal?

[BratmanXj]

Maybe a rodent has been using the spark plug recess as a urinal?

 

Ride rain or shine... Did the Chicago Toys for Tots run in December in a driving snow storm! Not worried about the rust streak. Late last year I did smell a whiff of coolant now and again; as stated I have new rubber plugs and if I see something I'll get right on fixing it.

[BratmanXj]

 

2. The bolt for the fairing under the headlight is giving me problems. Went back into the instructions and it shows an Allen head for that screw, but the only extra bolt i have is Philips and it doesn't want to thread in. Do I need to hunt down a missing bolt in my workshop or am I just a duffus who can't put a screw back in?

 

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=109110

 

After fighting with this bolt for a day I grabbed my buddies tap & die set. The machine screw is a 1/4-20! I guess the previous owner wedged a different screw in place of a missing factory screw?

[grubsie]

The 1/4-20 is an SAE size. Sounds like the previous owner lost the original metric 6mmx1.5 allen bolt and tried to make the 1/4-20 work thereby crossing the threads as it's larger in diameter than the metric one. As long as what you did works, you're good to go.

[Flyinfool]

The picture of that screw head is a Phillips recess, All of the cross recess screws on your bike should be JIS, Additional confermation that someone jammed a SAE screw into the metric hole. If it is indeed a clip-nut, I would try to get a new nut before trying to rethread it. jamming in a 1/4-20 and then retaping back to 6mm will leave very comprised threads.

[BratmanXj]

The 1/4-20 is an SAE size. Sounds like the previous owner lost the original metric 6mmx1.5 allen bolt and tried to make the 1/4-20 work thereby crossing the threads as it's larger in diameter than the metric one. As long as what you did works, you're good to go.

 

I re-tapped the hole for the 1/4-20 as the original 1.5mm threads were to goobered up to salvage. The screw goes into a clip-nut and if I'm ever back inside the fairing I'll get a new nut & bolt but for now it is secure. There's only so much torque you can put on plastic parts so I'm not really concerned, and every other screw holding the fairing together is into plastic.

[bongobobny]

The picture of that screw head is a Phillips recess, All of the cross recess screws on your bike should be JIS, Additional confermation that someone jammed a SAE screw into the metric hole. If it is indeed a clip-nut, I would try to get a new nut before trying to rethread it. jamming in a 1/4-20 and then retaping back to 6mm will leave very comprised threads.

That and the fact that the screws are all Allen head...

[BratmanXj]

Having bought the bike used and never opening up the fairing till now I had did not notice the machine screw difference until looking at the pictures of the procedure found on this website.

[djh3]

There is not one fastener on that bike that should be standard. EVERYTHING is metric. You can put a heli-coil in there next time you have it apart. One thing I tell my auto tech students, "never tighten any fasteners of a multi fastener part until all of them are started".

[BratmanXj]

There is not one fastener on that bike that should be standard. EVERYTHING is metric. You can put a heli-coil in there next time you have it apart. One thing I tell my auto tech students, "never tighten any fasteners of a multi fastener part until all of them are started".

 

And that is why I fought with the screw for a while before I finally grabbed my buddies big tap-die set to measure it out, threads keep jamming when trying to insert by hand. It wasn't until I measured it did I notice is was SAE and intimidate red flag! The inner fairing has a tab with a clip-nut that is easily replaceable next time I'm inside so no need to go the route of a heli-coil.

[cecdoo]

To answer question #1 in first post, make sure your forks are air'd up. I think I keep mine around 10PSI. I have 2 dimples in my fender from the lite bar mount. Hit a pothole with no air in the forks and dinged the fender.

 

Craig

[vzuden]

To answer question #1 in first post, make sure your forks are air'd up. I think I keep mine around 10PSI.

 

My service manual lists 7.1 PSI for the front forks. Will they handle 10?

[BratmanXj]

My service manual lists 7.1 PSI for the front forks. Will they handle 10?

 

Agreed...I usually am around 5-6 psi.

[cecdoo]

My service manual lists 7.1 PSI for the front forks. Will they handle 10?

 

Just to clarify, I am talking about a Hannigan trike with the rake kit. I do run at 10psi and so far no problems. No more dings on top of the fender.

 

Craig

[bongobobny]

I'm not 100% sure on this, but I think the maximum pressure is 14 psi...