windrider1983 Posted April 15, 2017 #1 Posted April 15, 2017 Purchased a water pump rebuild kit for my 83 a while back (from Rick at Buckeye Performance) and am now getting around to install. Got everything torn down (it did still have the plastic impeller – near 80k and it was not in bad shape, but good to have the new one in hand). I have cleaned up all the surfaces and am ready to assemble the new parts. Is there a recommended sequence for installing the seals and bearing? I am thinking it would be best to install the mechanical seal (the one with the spring, on the coolant side of the assembly) first, since it is supposed to have the Yamabond4 around the inner edge. The manual shows a ‘special tool’ for pressing that piece in place– any hints for a suitable substitute? After that, then install the oil seal and bearing? Or vice-versa? Or am I over-thinking this? Any advice would be appreciated. And... I did not purchase a new thermostat - seems to be working fine - is it any more difficult to do it later if it becomes a problem?
Air Ready Auto Posted April 16, 2017 #2 Posted April 16, 2017 About time for me to tackle the same project. I will be watching this one to see what you wind up doing. The place you got yours from, did they also have that stupid elbow thingy (the one that comes off the housing and goes to the t-stat) that dents every time you look at it crosseyed and the seals for it?
windrider1983 Posted April 29, 2017 Author #3 Posted April 29, 2017 About time for me to tackle the same project. I will be watching this one to see what you wind up doing. The place you got yours from, did they also have that stupid elbow thingy (the one that comes off the housing and goes to the t-stat) that dents every time you look at it crosseyed and the seals for it? The L-Joint as it is called was included because I asked for it - mine had a dent in the elbow and I figured it would be a lot easier to replace now than later. It is a pricey item though - about $60 list but he did give me a discount on the whole package - stll over $200. But that also included a new impeller ($77) - mine was still the original plastic one. If yours was ever replaced with an aluminum one, you shouldn't need that. I am posting my whole narrative on the rebuild, complete with video, in a new post here shortly. Hope it gives you most of the info you need.
Marcarl Posted April 29, 2017 #4 Posted April 29, 2017 Special tool generally indicates anything you have laying around that looks like it will do the job. Then take special interest in how it's done. If it doesn't work the first time, get a bigger hammer and then you'll not have to think about why it broke.
Liptoss Posted April 29, 2017 #5 Posted April 29, 2017 I used a deep socket that matched the diameter of the bearing, and tapped it into seat slowly with a hammer. Be very careful with the ceramic seal you press onto the impeller shaft since it can crack easily. Ensure the circlips click into the groves on the impeller shaft. Just a couple of items to watch out for.
windrider1983 Posted April 30, 2017 Author #6 Posted April 30, 2017 (edited) I used a deep socket that matched the diameter of the bearing, and tapped it into seat slowly with a hammer. Be very careful with the ceramic seal you press onto the impeller shaft since it can crack easily. Ensure the circlips click into the groves on the impeller shaft. Just a couple of items to watch out for. I did use a socket, but got a suggestion from a neighbor on using a bolt to draw it down, rather than the hammer method. I documented what i did and posted it to a new post with some attachments. Link to the YouTube video has been added - here is the link to the other post: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?129023-Water-Pump-rebuild-narrative-and-video Edited April 30, 2017 by windrider1983
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