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Posted

So the bike sat all winter and the tire went flat. When I went to put air in it was not only flat but dry rotted and split. So I went to remove the wheel and I can't seem to get the axle out. Looking from the rear it looks like it has to come out to the right. I loosened the split bolt and tried tapping on the left side threaded end, being careful not to damage the threads. It moved out about 1/8" but didn't want to come out any further. So I stopped to ask before causing any damage. What is the trick? Does it thread out or just push through and pull out?

Posted

It does come out to the right. I've seen them a little stuck before. You can put an allen wrench in the end of the axle on the right side, don't remember exactly what size but it lets you rotate it back and forth to loosen it up a bit and then while turning it with the allen wrench, tap on the threaded end with a rubber mallet. If you don't have a rubber mallet, try a regular hammer and a block of wood.

Posted

Hmmm...sounds like something is binding. Lift or lower the tire a bit. Maybe the axle is binding there. Other than the swing arm on either side...the only thing left would be the tire. Nothing else should cause binding....

 

Last time that happened to me, I raised the tire just a smidge and tapped gently on axle. Then rotated the axle from right side and pulled. Out she came...

Posted

Put the nut on a couple threads to protect it. Then you can give the nut a tap and not worry about the threads a lot. I use a brass drift. Might try supporting the wheel a bit as if it has all the weight on it once the bolt get part way out of the diff, the weight shifts and makes the bolt drag. Not sure if the pipes need to come off or not.

Posted

Yup... what all these guys said.

When I did mine it stuck a bit also, and the pucker factor goes up when you are dealing with something and trying not to do more damage. But generally it sounds like its just binding up a bit.

 

Good luck

Posted
It does come out to the right. I've seen them a little stuck before. You can put an allen wrench in the end of the axle on the right side, don't remember exactly what size but it lets you rotate it back and forth to loosen it up a bit and then while turning it with the allen wrench, tap on the threaded end with a rubber mallet. If you don't have a rubber mallet, try a regular hammer and a block of wood.
Thats what I thought. I just couldn't remember if there was a threaded part inside the pumpkin that the axle had to thread through. If there was I imagined damaging the back threads of the axle by tapping on it. I can see some dirt and rust at the caliper bracket and the way I got the bike jacked up on two different floor jacks the bike is on a slight lean. Stable but still leaning. Maybe a little lube and with a little wiggle waggle and some careful taps and it should come on out...... I hope.
Posted

All the above provide the info to get the axle out.

 

Now, to prevent it from happening next time you need to change a tire, apply a little anti-seize to the axle before putting it back in. Don't get any on the threads.

 

If you haven't worked with anti-seize before, I recommend wearing disposable gloves as it is a bear to get off your hands.

 

FYI - If I recall correctly, the allen wrench size is 10mm in the end of the axle. Turn it a few times and it will come out.

 

RR

Posted

Ok leveled the bike up, squirted a little lube up in there, wiggled it then waggled it a bit and it decide to come on out after a tug or two.

 

Now got to figure out what the best tire is to get without going dark.

 

Any hints?

Posted
Ok leveled the bike up, squirted a little lube up in there, wiggled it then waggled it a bit and it decide to come on out after a tug or two.

 

Now got to figure out what the best tire is to get without going dark.

 

Any hints?

 

LOL!

 

Uh yea.....Shinko 777HD. Great handling, very good wear and great price.

 

Let the discussion begin!

 

(Glad the axle came out easily)

Posted

Michelin Commander II little harder compound lasts longer than E3 with 2-up ridding. With that said I also run a E-3 on the front for biteing into the curves and the fun factor.:stirthepot:

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