Clutch Fluid replacement

[djadam]

I have a 2006 RSV and the window for the clutch fluid is showing it's time to replace the oil. I found one article about doing this yourself that had pictures, but none of the pictures would open. I am fairly mechanically inclined and I'm not afraid to try things. But, does someone have a step by step on how to do this for a first timer, maybe wth some pictures?

I'm not interested in speedbleeders yet. I know I'll need some kind of vacuum and some hoses. Some info on those would be great. What size hose? What type of vacuum? I've seen most things say DOT4 brake oil, is that correct?

Feel free to talk to me like I'm a 5 year old. I'll do the work but I really need step by step with some good details.

Thank you for any help that can be provided.

 

Adam

[Kretz]

DOT 4 brake fluid is correct. btw There's nothing "special" about stuff labelled as "Motorcycle DOT 4 fluid" & sold at two or three times the price!

I have a 2009 RSTD. The clutch bleed nipple is on the left side of the bike (when facing forward) at the base of the rear engine cylinder, under a rubber cover.

You may need to remove the "engine cover" from that back cylinder, to get at the nipple easily. If you do remove that back cylinder cover you may need a new gasket for when you replace it Yamaha Part # 4NK-11195-00. (some parts list show that # as 4NK111950000.

As for bleed tube sizes not sure but any small proprietary "brake bleed tube" should do. (I'm thinking around 3/16")

Do NOT let that fluid get on any paintwork, it's an amazing paint stripper. Make sure to keep the reservoir topped up while bleeding & only squeeze the lever slowly/ gently if you don't want brake fluid on the other side of the garage.

Hope that helps

PS you don't need vacuum, you should be able to bleed with just a tube from the nipple with the free end submersed into a "jar" containing clean fluid so it can't pull air back. Make sure the free end of tube stays immersed in fluid, open the bleed nipple slightly & gently squeeze lever at the same time. Once lever is fully squeezed, close the nipple before you let the lever go (again slowly) repeat until you see no more air bubbles. (You may only see a few anyway) & clean fluid is flowing into the jar. You are effectively pumping the fluid through the system to bleed & flush it, replacing old fluid with new.

Hope that makes sense.

Edited April 5, 2017 by Kretz

[Flyinfool]

To expand on what has been said.

 

Not only is brake fluid an incredible paint stripper, it is also wonderful and making ABS plastic go away. One drop can make a 4 inch hole in the fairing or other plastic part.

Cover everything with towels and plastic to catch any splash. If you should happen to get any brake fluid on a painted surface IMMEDIATELY wash it off with lots of water.

 

Once you take the cover off of the master cylinder, only move the clutch lever very slowly, there is a tiny hole that if you move the lever to fast it will squirt fluid high up into the air and it will get on everything.

 

Start by draining as much of the old fluid out of the master as you can. I use a paper towel to sop it up and wipe any dirt or sediment from the bottom of the reservoir.

Refill the reservoir with fresh clean fluid.

Place the cover back on, just to help prevent an accidental squirt.

Put the clear tube onto the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder and run it into a jar with just enough brake fluid to cover the end of the tube.

Now crack the bleeder open and slowly squeeze the clutch lever all the way to the grip, then while holding the lever to the grip tighten the bleeder then release the lever slowly.

This should have pushed some of the old fluid into the clear tube.

Repeat the squeeze open close release procedure until the fluid coming out of the slave is clear and clean. Keep a very close eye on the fluid level in the master, DO NOT LET IT RUN DRY or you will push air into the system and that is harder to get back out.

Top off the master to the correct level and put the cover back on.

Edited April 5, 2017 by Flyinfool

[Freebird]

If you'll post a link to the thread with the missing pictures. I can probably restore them.

[djh3]

I use to take some painters tape and some of those dozens of plastic bags the stores like to pass out and cover the tank and leg fairing any place you might drip fluid. I also turned the bars so the reservoir was level. After covering things in plastic bags I also covered in an old towel or some rags. If your doing the clutch, you might as well do the brakes. Brake fluid is hydroscopic. It will absorb water and as such it will boil easier so you get less braking action. I had a severe brake fade happen in the mountains one year behind some Jack A riding the brakes going downhill. Since then I flush the brakes and clutch every year.

[Kretz]

Thanks Flyinfool I did not know that clutch/ brake fluid also eats holes in abs! Learning, learning all the time!

btw you might want to change 'brake' lever to 'clutch'. Cause you just know some smart ass will pick that up! (not me though, lol)

 

Here's a Utube on bleeding the clutch on an older Venture but the "parts" are in the same place. You can see what I meant by removing the "engine cover" he refers to them as cooling fins. You don't need the "battery tester" but you can remove old fluid with something like a turkey baster if you like. Just make sure not to let the reservoir go dry & allow air into the system.

This video shows the general procedure (very similar for most any bike)

Edited April 5, 2017 by Kretz

[bongobobny]

Go with speed bleeders, they are pretty cheap, and make the job a lot easier! A speed bleeder has a one-way valve built into it, so you do not have to keep opening and closing the bleeder to properly bleed the system...

[Flyinfool]

Thanks Flyinfool I did not know that clutch/ brake fluid also eats holes in abs! Learning, learning all the time!

btw you might want to change 'brake' lever to 'clutch'. Cause you just know some smart ass will pick that up! (not me though, lol)

 

Here's a Utube on bleeding the clutch on an older Venture but the "parts" are in the same place. You can see what I meant by removing the "engine cover" he refers to them as cooling fins. You don't need the "battery tester" but you can remove old fluid with something like a turkey baster if you like. Just make sure not to let the reservoir go dry & allow air into the system.

 

This video shows the general procedure (very similar for most any bike)

 

The exact same procedure also works for the front brake.

[BlueSky]

Dot 3, Dot 4, and Dot 5.1 are all compatible and can be used. The higher the number, the higher the boiling temperature of the fluid. And the higher the number, the more likely it is to absorb water. So, the higher the number, the more often flushing is needed but it might be just what you need for aggressive riding especially in the mountains when riding double with gear.

[Kretz]

This is what I have always understood & followed:

Mix 'em or interchange at your own risk... Just sayin'

You can put DOT 4 in place of Dot 3 but not the other way around. DOT 5 is not interchangeable or compatible with DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 fluids and can cause catastrophic system failure. Dot 3, 4, and 5.1 are glycol ether based. They are compatible, but like motor oils, you should use the recommended or higher grade fluid.

DOT4 brake fluid has a higher boiling point than DOT3, making the fluid less likely to boil. ... Dot 4 and 5.1 also have borate ester to handle higher temperatures. DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 fluids are found in most brake and clutch systems.

DOT 5 is a silicone oil based fluid and can only be used in new, dry systems.

Edited April 5, 2017 by Kretz

[djadam]

That is all great information! Flyinfool, I had no idea it would eat thru the ABS! I new it didnt like paint. Thank you all very much. I have watched a couple videos on it as well from Youtube. I ordered everything I need and it should be done by this weekend! Looks like the snow might be gone and could be hitting 60 by Monday.

Thank you all very much!

 

Adam

[camos]

Here is my two bits worth.

 

Do empty and wipe out the reservoir first. There is no need to have the end of the tube submerged in the receiver container. The main thing to watch for is the tube goes up at least a 3 inches above the bleeder valve before turning down to the container. There will be a little draw back when releasing the lever between pumps which is where the squirt comes from and it can allow air back into the system. You will see the part of the tube that is before the bend will hold fluid and does create an air lock. The pic in the YouTube link is totally wrong for placement of the tube.

 

Always put the cover on before continuing to pump because the squirt can make it through an almost full reservoir. There is no need to put the bellows in when putting the cover on. Watch the sight glass to prevent emptying the reservoir. When the level gets to the bottom, refill it. Somewhere around one reservoir fill should contain enough fluid to purge the system so when re-filling only top up to around the mid mark.

 

This same procedure will work just as well when bleeding brakes. There is no need to close the bleeder valve between pumps as the small head of fluid will not allow air back into the system. There is also no need to waste money on speed bleeders or pumps on these very small systems.

 

Easy-Peasy 10 minute job.

 

Forgot to mention, pump fast, not slow. The faster the fluid moves through the system the more likely it will move any air through it. Pumping slowly just gives any trapped air time to float up.

Edited April 5, 2017 by camos