Wire.... What to use ... and how to join...?

[Mad Dog]

I don't mean to open up a can 0' worms, but what wire do you use when wiring up things on your bikes? I'm not asking you to recommend a specific all around gauge - unless there actually is one - but more the type?

Is it just THHN? or is it something special like UV proof I should be looking for?

..and one more thing ... solder or crimp?

 

Thanks

[SilvrT]

I don't mean to open up a can 0' worms, but what wire do you use when wiring up things on your bikes? I'm not asking you to recommend a specific all around gauge - unless there actually is one - but more the type?

Is it just THHN? or is it something special like UV proof I should be looking for?

..and one more thing ... solder or crimp?

 

Thanks

 

Assuming you're speaking of electrical wire ... the gauge really depends on what you're wiring up.

 

Some are adamant about soldering. I generally use crimp connections and there are some really good newer styles out nowadays that make for very good connections. Soldering of course is the best but I've never had any issues with crimped.

 

That's my $0.05 ... not my advice.

[XV1100SE]

Depending on what the connection is... if it is something that is permanent/spliced, I'll solder the wires together and then shrink tube it. For wires that need to be disconnected periodically I always tin the wires then use a connector. I started using a connector that allows you to connect 1-to-many that has worked nicely. http://www.idealindustries.ca/products/wire_termination/push-in/in-sure.php

[Mad Dog]

Thanks guys. Appreciate it.

[Woody]

I was going to add my but it has already been said,

[CaseyJ955]

I have buckets of bulk wirr, new and previously enjoyed. When Im doing a project I reach in and grab what looks right. You need less wire to signal a relay than to provide juice to a horn compressor or headlight.

 

I get nutty about neatness, I solder. When I ride I dont allow rain to ruin my day, bike often gets soaked several times on each tour. Crimps are mostly reliable but I have had trouble. I dislike the looks of a crimped fitting and electrical tape is a sin. Here is what I do.

 

For joining wires I strip a lick over 1/4" depending on gauge, smaller is less stripped length, twist them together end to end. Not twisting them together and bending them over. Ill link my COPs below to illustrate. I soldier using 20/40 watt iron ($30) on the he 40/watt setting, lots of heat fast helps the solder flow sweetly through the wires. To long and insulation can burn or it can start to close up your heat shrink tube if that isnt far enough up the wire away from the soldering heat. When I was learning I got jumbles of scrap wire and practiced. So anyway, when I join two wires OR place a terminal I use heat shrink tubing. 1/8" works for most and you can buy it dirt cheap at local electronic suppliers or where you get the iron. Before you join wires you must slide a length of heat shrink tubing onto one end, once the solder is complete and cool pull the shrink tube over the solder joint and hit it briefly with a lighter and watch it suck down amd make a neat tight joint.

 

When I place a terminal I strip ~1/8" off the end of the wire, slide the heat shrink tube over the wire then place a crimp style terminal (with the plastic sleve removed from said terminal) over the bare wire and gently fold the tabs over the wire so it holds, hit it with solder than slide the heat shrink tubing over that, lighter, done. You will have connections virtually impervious to weather and being accidentally pulled or yanked on. Its very neat besides being highly reliable. Im a DIY guy, not a pro but this has served me very well. Im sure a pro could add to this or correct me. Anyways I hope this helps. One of my pics show my iron, got it on ebay for $15 shipped IIRC. I should clarify that 40w is a decent amount of heat so you wont hold it on the joint long before the solder flows nicely, 40w is also to much heat for soldering close to electronic components, it can sizzle a semiconductor in seconds but it does work great for wires/terminals. Im going to guess you could fi d some good tutorials on youtube.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?102440-Run-for-it-it-s-the-COPs!/page4. Mine is the last post.

[XV1100SE]

So you don't have to scan thru the entire thread mentioned above...link directly to the post is http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?102440-Run-for-it-it-s-the-COPs!&p=1000486#post1000486

[Kretz]

If you're wondering what wire size to use, there are a number of tables out there, just google "12 volt wire gauge chart" or something similar.

here's one:

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html

Always protect the wire/ end user with a correctly sized fuse.

[M61A1MECH]

Mad Dog, PM sent

[camos]

For joining wires I strip a lick over 1/4" depending on gauge, smaller is less stripped length, twist them together end to end. Not twisting them together and bending them over.

The connection you use is known as a Western Union splice because it is the method used to connect the telegraph wires when they were being strung across the US. At least, that's the rumour I heard.

 

I use the same method to do inline joints.

[djh3]

If your going to add a bunch of stuff, extra lights, and things that need a separate power possibly. Add an aux fuse box. I think I got some pics on the other PC of the way I put mine in under the seat. I ran some 10ga wire from battery over to the aux box and then ran my extra lights etc off that box. Most stuff ran off a relay with key on power.

[CaseyJ955]

Western Union Splice! Got it, thank you. It surr makes it easier to pull the shrink tube over it.

 

The fuse box idea mentioned by djh3 is really important. I have a pretty modified Suzuki Samurai and had to find a fusebox worthy of exposure to elements like water crossings, heat, anger and mud. I went with a marine fuse box and this is no place to cheap out because of the currents and cost of failure. For something small a good USA or Japan made one like this is nice and has a decent firm fitting lid. There are lots of good ones but I cant stress enough to get a quality box. Buying a $9 Chinese box and having it fall apart really sucks! ask me how I know. The Blue Sea stuff is nice but maybe bulky for a bike. I saw some really nice 1-in 4-out little ones but cant find now.

 

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Fuse-Box-MOTORCYCLE-ATV-Marine-scooter-CUSTOM-Fuse-Box-Universal-4-fuse-custom-/231139455775?nav=SEARCH

 

This is like the one im going to use for driving lights, GPS, charger and heated grips on the mighty Venture. Its nice if the lid fits over the input and output terminals to protect from shorting.

[bongobobny]

Yup! When properly done, the Western Union splice (named after the famous telegraph company) is just as strong if not stronger than the original wire...

[Mad Dog]

If your going to add a bunch of stuff, extra lights, and things that need a separate power possibly. Add an aux fuse box. I think I got some pics on the other PC of the way I put mine in under the seat. I ran some 10ga wire from battery over to the aux box and then ran my extra lights etc off that box. Most stuff ran off a relay with key on power.

 

This is what I am trying to accomplish, but I am not sure I have the room. Did you just sit the aux fuse box loose in the space or was there a place to actually mount it there... doesn't look like there is room. Anyway... this is my quandry... I was going to mount it in the trunk, but can't bring myself to drill through it. No room in the left and right side panels. Looks like there isn't room under the passenger seat, and well... maybe there's room under the driver seat ... thats why I am asking.

 

I have an auxiliary fuse box and a control module for the LED accent lighting .. and then a few relays for stuff...

Someone emntioned putting stuff behind the passenger backrest .... so thats a possibility for the fuse box and relays.... I dunno ....

I know I am making this harder than it has to be... I end up second guessing myself a zillion times.

It can't possibly be as hard as I make it to be....

[XV1100SE]

I haven't had time to post the pictures I promised...I'll do them tonight - my configuration of fuse/gang block under passenger back rest.

 

I find that there is very little room under the drivers seat, none under the passenger seat. Side panels have a little - I have two Stebel horns by the passenger floor boards and have a separate relay for each one, one in each side panel.

 

I have a fuse/gang block in the fairing - used velcro to attach it to the inside of the fairing. This works off a relay (see the passing light document to identify which wire I tied the relay into - the one which is "hot" whether high or low beam are on). A separate power wire (10 gauge from memory) runs from the battery to the fairing under the gas tank. Off of this fuse block I have gps, tach, passing lights.

 

For the fuse/gang block under the passenger backrest...another power wire going directly from the battery to the back rest. The relay is switched on with the running light wire. Off of the fuse block here, I have my two Stebel horns, trailer wiring adapter, and the usb port inside the trunk lid.

[Mad Dog]

I haven't had time to post the pictures I promised...I'll do them tonight - my configuration of fuse/gang block under passenger back rest.

 

I find that there is very little room under the drivers seat, none under the passenger seat. Side panels have a little - I have two Stebel horns by the passenger floor boards and have a separate relay for each one, one in each side panel.

 

I have a fuse/gang block in the fairing - used velcro to attach it to the inside of the fairing. This works off a relay (see the passing light document to identify which wire I tied the relay into - the one which is "hot" whether high or low beam are on). A separate power wire (10 gauge from memory) runs from the battery to the fairing under the gas tank. Off of this fuse block I have gps, tach, passing lights.

 

For the fuse/gang block under the passenger backrest...another power wire going directly from the battery to the back rest. The relay is switched on with the running light wire. Off of the fuse block here, I have my two Stebel horns, trailer wiring adapter, and the usb port inside the trunk lid.

 

Holy Moly... but yeah... thats what I want to do...

I'm just always hesitant to get into these things when I am starting with doubts

[vzuden]

I added a fuse block under the rear of the fuel tank. It will hold up to five fuses and is maybe 4 inches long and a little over 1 inch wide. It has a clear plastic cover that makes it maybe two inches tall. There was room behind the air inlet plastics. There was no need to mount it.

[Carbon_One]

There's room between the rear fender & battery on a 2nd gen for small fuse box as well.

[djh3]

Yea it was tight. I think I drilled a hole in the plastic inner fender and used a 10x32 screw to hold it there. As far as securing the fuse block if you put it in the trunk you can use the gorilla velcro stuff. Still need a hole for wires, and a grommet. What if you used the velcro to just stick it to the bottom of the trunk up out of the way and hidden.

[XV1100SE]

Here is what I did under the passenger back rest. You can see the hollow area inside the back rest, how I positioned the fuse block and where I made the hole for the usb charger.

[Mad Dog]

Here is what I did under the passenger back rest. You can see the hollow area inside the back rest, how I positioned the fuse block and where I made the hole for the usb charger.

 

ok. Wow. Thank you so much. That's what it needed to see.

I owe you.

[baylensman]

Assuming you're speaking of electrical wire ... the gauge really depends on what you're wiring up.

 

Some are adamant about soldering. I generally use crimp connections and there are some really good newer styles out nowadays that make for very good connections. Soldering of course is the best but I've never had any issues with crimped.

 

That's my $0.05 ... not my advice.

 

Saw an interesting car show about wiring and off road vehicles. The guy doing the wiring used all crimp connectors his explanation was "new FAA specs call for crimped and shrink wrapped connection on aircraft, due to vibration cracking newer low lead or lead free soldered joints over time" don't know if i buy that or not but it was interesting either way.

[BratmanXj]

Saw an interesting car show about wiring and off road vehicles. The guy doing the wiring used all crimp connectors his explanation was "new FAA specs call for crimped and shrink wrapped connection on aircraft, due to vibration cracking newer low lead or lead free soldered joints over time" don't know if i buy that or not but it was interesting either way.

 

I've rewired a few cars with solder & shrink-wrap with no problems 10yrs later....but my boats I use crimped weather-tight connections as I've had problems with moisture and vibration wearing out the soldered connections.