tntviper1 Posted April 3, 2017 #1 Posted April 3, 2017 so first did a search, most signs point to gummed up carbs or out of synch. but did not really find a thread for whats going on. 1983 venture 45K kilometers on it. bike was fine when i put it away. full tank of gas and sefoam, started it up about every 5 weeks. so yesterday put all the trim back together (spring deep clean) fired it up and in neutral has to be at 1k rpm's to keep running. tried driving, at 4k rpm still in first i have almost no power (about 15mph tops) anyone have this specific issue before? new plugs or air filter? fuel filter? or take it to the shop
Marcarl Posted April 3, 2017 #2 Posted April 3, 2017 For the time it takes, check the air filter first, while it's off check to make sure the carb slides are working, while your doing that spray some carb cleaner down the throats of the carbs to see if anybody fires up under that procedure.
tntviper1 Posted April 3, 2017 Author #3 Posted April 3, 2017 For the time it takes, check the air filter first, while it's off check to make sure the carb slides are working, while your doing that spray some carb cleaner down the throats of the carbs to see if anybody fires up under that procedure. ok i will do that and see, thank you
CaseyJ955 Posted April 3, 2017 #4 Posted April 3, 2017 (edited) I have my idle set to 1050 but it will idle at half that. When you parked it last fall did it have pure gasoline or gasoline with ethanol? Is it popping and/or missfiring or just lacking power? From just sitting I would not suspect plugs or synch (although I'm big on keeping a good synch). The gas is most suspect when sitting. Pure gas can take a season of sitting but ethanol probably not so much. Depending on symptoms I'm wondering if the Shotgun cleaning might not clear things up. Ive had to do it on my VMX a couple times after it sat awhile to get it running right. The CVs really dont like to sit, esp w/ethanol Edited April 3, 2017 by CaseyJ955
tntviper1 Posted April 3, 2017 Author #5 Posted April 3, 2017 I have my idle set to 1050 but it will idle at half that. When you parked it last fall did it have pure gasoline or gasoline with ethanol? Is it popping and/or missfiring or just lacking power? From just sitting I would not suspect plugs or synch (although I'm big on keeping a good synch). The gas is most suspect when sitting. Pure gas can take a season of sitting but ethanol probably not so much. Depending on symptoms I'm wondering if the Shotgun cleaning might not clear things up. Ive had to do it on my VMX a couple times after it sat awhile to get it running right. The CVs really dont like to sit, esp w/ethanol not sure on the gas, so what is shotgunning? sorry i dont know the term
CaseyJ955 Posted April 3, 2017 #6 Posted April 3, 2017 Try what Marcarl suggested first, very sound advice IMO. Here is a writeup on the "shotgun" cleaning method performed on a Vmax (virtually identical carbs). Like I said Ive had to do it a couple times to light her back up after sitting a while. Not this spring though, pure gas and Seafoam seemed to work great for storage. Its the last stop before carb removal, assuming that the issue lies within the carbs in the first place. Here and most states I have been to they have to label the pump "may contain up to 10% ethanol". Or " pure gasonline, no ethanol added". Guess which one I get whenever possible. I had ethanol in my mower and the following spring I had to pull the carb and when I opened it up it was full of yellow corn squeezings/jelly. I despise ethanol tainted fuel and everything that brought it to the fueling stations. http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm Assuming you checked plugs and HT leads, plug caps, sometimes they can get crusty after sitting, I have used downpipe spit sizzle test to make sure shes hitting on all cylinders. These bikes run well on only three pots
cimmer Posted April 4, 2017 #7 Posted April 4, 2017 another thought on this issue is to check the vacuum lines and make sure they are tight and no holes in the lines. Might be possible a mouse got hungry and took a bit of one. Also make sure the vacuum port caps are on tight and not cracked and leaking. I have done the shotgun cleaning in the past and it does help to clean up air passages that can get clogged as well as fuel passages. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Rick F.
tntviper1 Posted April 18, 2017 Author #8 Posted April 18, 2017 well here is the update one carb diaphram is torn, shop said it is $190 for the part and then it may be $800 to then re build all 4 carbs. front fork seals, and bleed/replace fluid on clutch and brake lines so i decided to pull the carbs and i will fix it myself. i found the re build thread and if i take my time i can do it. just will have to figure out synching if i need it bottom line shop wanted about 1500 to make the bike right, and he said it isnt worth the money. but since i love this bike i think i can fix all the issues at a far lower cost
BlueSky Posted April 18, 2017 #9 Posted April 18, 2017 Market value and value to you are two entirely different things. And where could you get a great touring bike for less money?
CaseyJ955 Posted April 18, 2017 #10 Posted April 18, 2017 Ok, before you do this let me throw out another option. I put these on my own scoot, they come from the UK but the arrive quickly. Why buy one when the rest are just as old and probably not far behind. A set of all 4 are about half price of one and there is an easy way to put them on. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-4-Pcs-Carburetor-Diaphragm-Yamaha-XVZ13-XVZ1300-Venture-Royal-1986-1993-/281761118300?hash=item419a45785c:g:3c4AAOSwrklVXmxv&vxp=mtr If your considering having someone else do the carbs have a chat with this guy here http://www.vmaxforum.net/brc.jpg He does the carbs for a lot of the Vmax crowd, and we Vmax guys are VERY picky about how stuff runs, if your going to drop coin on refurb carbs at least get them from someone that understands the art of not only CV carbs the art of tuning for a Yamaha V4. he's straight up and knows his stuff. If your going to go this yourself do some reading up and understand that if your replacing parts K&L kits are Japanese made and known good quality. Those budget kits on Ebay are Chinese knock-offs and known garbage. Of course boats.net can get you individual parts but OEM Yamaha, while awesome, is not cheap as you found out with the diaphragm price. Here is a link to how to dry set the floats. http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prody11.html and that alone makes a decent difference. I encourage you to contact Danny and he can probably tell you about what it would cost and what you might be looking at vs doing it yourself depending on your comfort level. I hope you find a good option and it works out.
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