s.tyler58 Posted April 2, 2017 #1 Posted April 2, 2017 Okay so I hope everyone's having a good day. I'm with my 83 today. I replaced the main fuse and the fuses in the fuse box. Turn on the key , signal fuse blows immediately and when I turned on the kill switch the ignition fuse blew. Now I'm clueless. Any suggestions where to go next? In the Eternal scheme of things... This is not even the blink of an eye
bongobobny Posted April 3, 2017 #2 Posted April 3, 2017 With the fuses out, start looking for zero ohms to ground everywhere, and start unplugging things until the zero ohms goes away. Sorry, there is no stock common problem for what you are describing...
frankd Posted April 3, 2017 #3 Posted April 3, 2017 Also, is there any chance you have the battery in backwards? The positive post should be to the left.
s.tyler58 Posted April 3, 2017 Author #4 Posted April 3, 2017 Also, is there any chance you have the battery in backwards? The positive post should be to the left. Ha! I'm crazy, not stoopud.[emoji53] In the Eternal scheme of things... This is not even the blink of an eye
CaseyJ955 Posted April 3, 2017 #5 Posted April 3, 2017 Reaching here, but if you have a trailer hitch and plug maybe check the integrity if the harness modification around back. Dont the lights come on with the key? Only other thing, and I saw this on mine, there was a cobbled battery tender or gerbing type plug along side the OE cables on the battery. I removed it before it could cause trouble. Im not sure where else peopl commonly modify stuff. Maybe try removing the stereo and looking around in there to make sure nothing is pinched and to RO the unit itself. Maybe check along the rear of the upper fairing where all the wires ce out and join the harness and make sure it looks right. There is a cable routing section toward the end of the service manual. Like I said, its reaching but hope you find the issue. Electrical stuff sucks!
s.tyler58 Posted April 3, 2017 Author #6 Posted April 3, 2017 Reaching here, but if you have a trailer hitch and plug maybe check the integrity if the harness modification around back. Dont the lights come on with the key? Only other thing, and I saw this on mine, there was a cobbled battery tender or gerbing type plug along side the OE cables on the battery. I removed it before it could cause trouble. Im not sure where else peopl commonly modify stuff. Maybe try removing the stereo and looking around in there to make sure nothing is pinched and to RO the unit itself. Maybe check along the rear of the upper fairing where all the wires ce out and join the harness and make sure it looks right. There is a cable routing section toward the end of the service manual. Like I said, its reaching but hope you find the issue. Electrical stuff sucks! There is no trailer hitch but there is a funky blinking light wraparound on the license plate and there's a bizarre ground coming up above the rear fender under the luggage rack that I haven't traced. This lamps on the fairing light up but nothing in back. Yes I'm not an electrician but I am becoming much more patient as I get older In the Eternal scheme of things... This is not even the blink of an eye
s.tyler58 Posted April 3, 2017 Author #7 Posted April 3, 2017 There is no stereo however there are speakers in the fairing. I want to pull all that wiring so that I can update my electronic devices In the Eternal scheme of things... This is not even the blink of an eye
CaseyJ955 Posted April 4, 2017 #8 Posted April 4, 2017 Maybe unplug suspect things to rule them out as the culprit, you can always plug it back in later after the issue is found.
frankd Posted April 5, 2017 #9 Posted April 5, 2017 To avoid a big pile of blown fuses, something you can do is to use 2 jumper leads and connect a car headlight or a tail light bulb to the terminals that the fuse usually goes into. What this will do is 1) act as a current limiting device to keep the current down to a safe level. And 2) give you a visual indication that higher than normal current is flowing. Then you can either start disconnecting plugs and watch if the light stays bright, or as I would do, take a clamp on DC ammeter and measure the current flowing through the wiring harness. You can just follow the path to the short. You may find a friend that works in electrical maintenance that has a clamp on DC ammeter, but if you do purchase one, the prices have come down quite a bit lately. Just make sure that the ammeter does read DC amperes. https://www.circuitspecialists.com/pro-series-clamp-meter-hh2002.html?otaid=gpl&gclid=CjwKEAjwq5LHBRCN0YLf9-GyywYSJAAhOw6mq_kdZmaq7IZJa3mGIYFvm9ZdC0uK4iTW6L5GXEOZOhoCM4Xw_wcB
s.tyler58 Posted April 5, 2017 Author #10 Posted April 5, 2017 The Previous Owner stopped by and showed me how the two fuses are showing that they have a ground somewhere and not broken wires. Probably can't do anything more until Saturday... In the Eternal scheme of things... This is not even the blink of an eye
s.tyler58 Posted April 25, 2017 Author #11 Posted April 25, 2017 3 hours tracing wires. No answer! Could the computer module be blown? No pinched, rubbed or chewed wires. All connections are good. Something is grounding the Ignition and the Signal fuses, but hazards work! Low budget big problems. Suggestions? Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
bongobobny Posted April 25, 2017 #12 Posted April 25, 2017 OK, I will try to help you out analyzing the issue. Here's the first step. Remove the signal, ignition AND the headlight fuses. All 3 have the same feed to the "input" side of the fuse. Then, with an ohmmeter, I want you to measure the resistance to ground on all 3 fuses, both sides. The battery needs to be disconnected for this test. Get back to me with the results, try to tell me which color wire is on each of the fuses. All 3 are fed with a Brown wire. The signal fuse has a brown wire on the other end, the ignition fuse has a Red/White wire, and the headlight has a red/Yellow wire...
s.tyler58 Posted April 25, 2017 Author #13 Posted April 25, 2017 Thanks for your help! We did all those things. Traced and checked all connections. Followed wiring diagram all the way to where each of those 4 ends. Kept getting ground between connection and end point. Battery was installed, however. We did get into Neutral so that will be my victory of the day and I can sleep like a winner! Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
bongobobny Posted April 25, 2017 #14 Posted April 25, 2017 I need you to be a little more specific, are you telling me that, with the fuses removed and the battery disconnected, you are seeing zero ohms to ground on both the Brown wire as well as the Red/White wire?? If this is the case, then, in theory, you should see zero ohms across the Brown wire to the Red/White wire as well! We need to start unplugging various connectors to isolate the issue. If you are confirming to me that you are seeing zero ohms to ground on both wires WITH the fuses removed and the battery disconnected, then I will give you a list of everything to unplug... You need to disconnect the battery when measuring with an ohmmeter, especially to ground, as any voltages that may be present will cause the meter to give you an erroneous reading...
s.tyler58 Posted April 25, 2017 Author #15 Posted April 25, 2017 Ok. Love love your knowledge and patience. I will try to contact the guy of my guy who looked at it and see if he wants to try Shaun of with the battery disconnected. We did check every connection to the ignition coils, every handle bar switch with every bulb removed. It make take a few days to contact that guy but I want you to know that I really appreciate your well spelled out advice! Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
s.tyler58 Posted April 25, 2017 Author #16 Posted April 25, 2017 Shaun = again! That's an autocorrect from left field huh? Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
flyday58 Posted April 28, 2017 #17 Posted April 28, 2017 My ignition switch was causing problems when I got the 83 running, no dead shorts but non-charging issues. Took it apart and cleaned everything up. Problem went away after that. Might be worth a look if you haven't already got it sorted.
s.tyler58 Posted July 7, 2017 Author #18 Posted July 7, 2017 Latest update. Printed a bunch of your info. Stopped in to discuss it with my mechanic who told me he's owned two of these bikes already but but very open to any help as he gets going. I'm supposed to know something by the end of the today or tomorrow. I was concerned about getting advice from others to share with him when I've hired him as my expert. But explained it I just want to do this as cheaply as possible in there was great information available quickly from you all. Thanks everyone Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
s.tyler58 Posted July 13, 2017 Author #19 Posted July 13, 2017 It's ALIIIIIIIVE! my guy says he unplugged and replugged the CDI and it quit blowing fuses! Cranked right aver and ran on 3 cylinders, he thought. The last time he started it, it was running good then the tach died and then it shut down. Thanks to snyper396 I'll have my used CDI box tomorrow at a very reasonable price and the mechanic said he'd get it in there and probably pull carbs or check carbs Saturday. He still hadn't pulled the plugs to see if one was fouled and that was the issue or not before doing carbs. Sounds like I get to be a Venture Rider soon! Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
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