crowrod Posted March 20, 2017 Posted March 20, 2017 I have a frozen brake pin, p.o. over tightened rounded inside hex. Now i can not remove it to replace pads any ideas???
crowrod Posted March 20, 2017 Author Posted March 20, 2017 Give us a picture. of what the pin or the bike???
Du-Rron Posted March 21, 2017 Posted March 21, 2017 of what the pin or the bike??? The pin and the surrounding area.
camos Posted March 21, 2017 Posted March 21, 2017 I have a frozen brake pin, p.o. over tightened rounded inside hex. Now i can not remove it to replace pads any ideas???The two brake pins are a fairly loose fit and should be able to be rotated using pliers to get the cotter pin facing up. Since they do not have an "inside hex" and are not tightened perhaps you mean the hex bolts that hold the caliper. Getting those out will be much more difficult. WD 40, some heat and a lot of cursing may work otherwise drill off the head and replace.
M61A1MECH Posted March 21, 2017 Posted March 21, 2017 The two brake pins are a fairly loose fit and should be able to be rotated using pliers to get the cotter pin facing up. Since they do not have an "inside hex" and are not tightened perhaps you mean the hex bolts that hold the caliper. Getting those out will be much more difficult. WD 40, some heat and a lot of cursing may work otherwise drill off the head and replace. I posted a similar response to his other thread on the same subject, turns out he is working on a Honda Goldwing, and those brake pad pins do in fact thread into position.
utadventure Posted March 21, 2017 Posted March 21, 2017 I had a similar situation on bolt on a car caliper. My neighbor (mechanic) flattened two sides out with a file and used an open end wrench to remove.
M61A1MECH Posted March 21, 2017 Posted March 21, 2017 I had a similar situation on bolt on a car caliper. My neighbor (mechanic) flattened two sides out with a file and used an open end wrench to remove. If his 1500 GL is like my 1800 the head of the bolt/screw sits in a counter bore no way to get to the side of the head.
crowrod Posted March 22, 2017 Author Posted March 22, 2017 If his 1500 GL is like my 1800 the head of the bolt/screw sits in a counter bore no way to get to the side of the head. tried breaking it loose with vise grips today no luck,I am going to pull the caliper tomorrow should be able to get a small pipe wrench on it hopefully break it loose that way
M61A1MECH Posted March 22, 2017 Posted March 22, 2017 tried breaking it loose with vise grips today no luck,I am going to pull the caliper tomorrow should be able to get a small pipe wrench on it hopefully break it loose that way Next step is to try and find a used caliper off a trike conversion, as was suggested over on the GL1800 forum, maybe be readily available from newer 1800 conversion, not sure if those fit your bike. Some one on the GL forum will know , I am sure. I take it you saw my post on your other thread?
crowrod Posted March 22, 2017 Author Posted March 22, 2017 Next step is to try and find a used caliper off a trike conversion, as was suggested over on the GL1800 forum, maybe be readily available from newer 1800 conversion, not sure if those fit your bike. Some one on the GL forum will know , I am sure. I take it you saw my post on your other thread? Yes ,I was offered a new caliper for $45.00 ,I might just jump on that and be done with it
M61A1MECH Posted March 22, 2017 Posted March 22, 2017 Sounds like a deal, I would jump on it if it were me.
crowrod Posted March 27, 2017 Author Posted March 27, 2017 I finial got back to my brake pin problem. YEAH I got it out!!!!!! ended up splitting caliper and grinding sides on the pin bolted the one half back on and I was able to break it loose with a 6 inch pipe wrench what a p.i.t.a thanks for every one input.
Sfahey151 Posted March 27, 2017 Posted March 27, 2017 I finial got back to my brake pin problem. YEAH I got it out!!!!!! ended up splitting caliper and grinding sides on the pin bolted the one half back on and I was able to break it loose with a 6 inch pipe wrench what a p.i.t.a thanks for every one input. Re-assemble it with the threads coated in anti-seize.
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