mcompton1973 Posted March 20, 2017 #1 Posted March 20, 2017 OK, well. I said I was going to buy another one, and I have settled on price with a guy. Bike iis 10 hours away. He has done several things to it... 1. All fresh fluids 2. new Dunlop Elite 3 tires 3. New Progressive fork springs 4. New fork seals and wipers 5. Rebuilt brake calipers 6. New EBC brake pads (front and rear) 7. Fresh valve adjustment 8. New valve cover gaskets 9. New Polk waterproof marine grade stereo speakers 10. CLASS electronic suspension system professionally repaired (air suspension works great) Now...he said it was having intermittent flooding issues...so he pulled carbs cleaned them including new o rings, gaskets, needles and seats. Said he put them back on and it didnt help. says " carbs vent a bit of fuel after shut down when its hot" says he can start and run it, but idle is racing and then it has the flooding. question 1. Where would you start with the carbs? question 2. I have 83 standard carbs....will they work? carbs were cleaned and working, but the idiot lost the linkage for choke cable and such.
snyper316 Posted March 20, 2017 #2 Posted March 20, 2017 OK, well. I said I was going to buy another one, and I have settled on price with a guy. Bike iis 10 hours away. He has done several things to it... 1. All fresh fluids 2. new Dunlop Elite 3 tires 3. New Progressive fork springs 4. New fork seals and wipers 5. Rebuilt brake calipers 6. New EBC brake pads (front and rear) 7. Fresh valve adjustment 8. New valve cover gaskets 9. New Polk waterproof marine grade stereo speakers 10. CLASS electronic suspension system professionally repaired (air suspension works great) Now...he said it was having intermittent flooding issues...so he pulled carbs cleaned them including new o rings, gaskets, needles and seats. Said he put them back on and it didnt help. says " carbs vent a bit of fuel after shut down when its hot" says he can start and run it, but idle is racing and then it has the flooding. question 1. Where would you start with the carbs? question 2. I have 83 standard carbs....will they work? carbs were cleaned and working, but the idiot lost the linkage for choke cable and such. My question would be how the carbs hook up.. I am thinking the mk2 had a different choke setup. But there is a vacuum advance nipple on the 83-85 carbs. I would assume it would be ok to just plug the nipple it is on the number 2 carb.
CaseyJ955 Posted March 20, 2017 #3 Posted March 20, 2017 That would be my guess too, if the chokes (fuel enrichment circuits, not really choke) are "on" because the linkage wont kill them that could explain some difficulties. Sounds like a lot of the expensive stuff was done. I would MUCH rather eff with carbs than eff with a 2nd gear. I know that your 83 carbs will have different jetting than the 86. If you do switch carbs you will do well to move ALL the jets over. There may be other differences I'm not aware of but I know that one for sure. As Snyper said I think choke linkage is different too. I'm guessing that it might be better to sort out the issues with the 86 carbs. There has really been something funky in the air, lots of folks here having carb issues like yours. There is a chart out there on the internet somewhere I cant find atm that shows all the jet sizes through the years and it's pretty different from 1200 and 1300. I believe other than that they are essentially the same carbs. What color ya looking at? mileage? Didja get a good price on it because of the carbs?
mcompton1973 Posted March 20, 2017 Author #4 Posted March 20, 2017 no one try to buy it out from under me....lol Black with the gold or bronze inserts. $1200 with the carb issues. 37k miles. My thought was what you said. I think a lot of the pricey stuff is done. the windshield is pristine, some scratches on the fairing (my guess, set down in a parking lot...its not that bad. I think I would rather screw with carb issues than a lot of other things. I will probably just work with the carbs it has. I thought if it was the same....cool. If not, rather than try to force it....I will just fix them. Carbs are not all THAT complicated. Cant be to hard to fix....and if they are...I remember a vmax guy that rebuilds carbs, synchs, tunes etc and sends them to you....I will still come out ahead. lol.
Javenmcd Posted March 20, 2017 #5 Posted March 20, 2017 Yep...that's my Venture. I've exhausted all my simple resources on it and gotten to the point where it just isn't fun any more. I'm OCD to a certain extent with my stuff and if it's not working correctly I will obsess about it and I've already lost more sleep than I'd like.. The folks here on the forum have been so awesome in trying to help me and I'd just as soon see it go to a home where someone will appreciate the effort, money and time I've invested in it. It's going to be a great bike for someone that is going to know exactly what to do with it....that just isn't me.
CaseyJ955 Posted March 20, 2017 #6 Posted March 20, 2017 no one try to buy it out from under me....lol Black with the gold or bronze inserts. $1200 with the carb issues. 37k miles. My thought was what you said. I think a lot of the pricey stuff is done. the windshield is pristine, some scratches on the fairing (my guess, set down in a parking lot...its not that bad. I think I would rather screw with carb issues than a lot of other things. I will probably just work with the carbs it has. I thought if it was the same....cool. If not, rather than try to force it....I will just fix them. Carbs are not all THAT complicated. Cant be to hard to fix....and if they are...I remember a vmax guy that rebuilds carbs, synchs, tunes etc and sends them to you....I will still come out ahead. lol. When I went to IA to look at a pristine 9k mile bike and asked some questions on this board about it, it did cross my mind that someone would go out there and snap it up but now that I have gotten to know the temperature of this forum I cant see anyone here pulling a move like that, it's a good forum full of really decent folks. Besides if you dont buy it I'll be very tempted to buy it myself and I dont need another bike. I inquired about it before I made the parallel in my brain.
mcompton1973 Posted March 20, 2017 Author #7 Posted March 20, 2017 Too funny the guy I am looking at getting the bike from is on here. lol.
snyper316 Posted March 20, 2017 #8 Posted March 20, 2017 Small world... Might want to check out his thread and take over where he left off. I need to find a tahoe forum because my truck is making heck of racket when it first started in the morning someone told me knock sensor but I am not the one who will go to auto parts store looking for blinker fluid. Also I got scared when I looked under the hood when I was thinking of buying it took me a week and cross my fingers nothing goes wrong.. Too much tech under there... Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
mcompton1973 Posted March 20, 2017 Author #9 Posted March 20, 2017 yeah, I went last night and read through his other posts. I can understand why he is getting frustrated with it. Hopefully it will be a win win for us both.
CaseyJ955 Posted March 20, 2017 #10 Posted March 20, 2017 Small world... Might want to check out his thread and take over where he left off. I need to find a tahoe forum because my truck is making heck of racket when it first started in the morning someone told me knock sensor but I am not the one who will go to auto parts store looking for blinker fluid. Also I got scared when I looked under the hood when I was thinking of buying it took me a week and cross my fingers nothing goes wrong.. Too much tech under there... Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside. Knock sensor should throw a code, also should make no noise. I think most systems do what my 1UZFE Lexus V8 did and just go full timing retard as a safety default. Detonation can be a damaging thing, better to have it slow and thirsty than pinging and knocking. Were you able to pull any codes from it? (GM belt idlers fail like they are made out of candy and the make quite a ruckus, check that too) When the new owner picks up this bike, like I know hes going to, hes probably going to send the carbs to a known guru on the Vmax site. If the issue is within the carbs Danny will be able to sort it out. I really want to know what the issue is with this bike.
Yammer Dan Posted March 20, 2017 #11 Posted March 20, 2017 no one try to buy it out from under me....lol Then you shouldn't put it on here!!!
CaseyJ955 Posted March 20, 2017 #12 Posted March 20, 2017 no one try to buy it out from under me....lol Then you shouldn't put it on here!!! I'm almost there with my trailer and a fist full of cash, just crossed WY-CO state line. , ok, yea, no, not really!
snyper316 Posted March 20, 2017 #13 Posted March 20, 2017 Lol you guys are 👿 yeah it is more of a knocking noise. I almost, I have had rods knocking b4 that noise don't go away this one does after about 3-5 minutes. I just changed the oil less then 2000 miles ago.... Didn't see any sparkles in the oil... Ha I am currently trying to get ahead of @Yammer Dan but due to noise may turn around and go 🏡. Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
CaseyJ955 Posted March 20, 2017 #14 Posted March 20, 2017 Lol you guys are 👿 yeah it is more of a knocking noise. I almost, I have had rods knocking b4 that noise don't go away this one does after about 3-5 minutes. I just changed the oil less then 2000 miles ago.... Didn't see any sparkles in the oil... Ha I am currently trying to get ahead of Yammer Dan but due to noise may turn around and go 🏡. Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside. Maybe cam bearings or something, your right that usually big end bearings dont go away although they might quiet some as the engine warms. I'm going with valve train somewhere. Do you have a mechanics stethoscope? or a cabinet screwdriver?
snyper316 Posted March 20, 2017 #15 Posted March 20, 2017 I can't even find the engine under the hood!!! This is why I wanted spare vehicle just in case I needed to put it in the shop.... Hopefully it hold out till next tax season mechanics want 80-120 an hour. Forgot to mention no engine code. Cam bearing? Wouldn't that be bottom end? Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
CaseyJ955 Posted March 20, 2017 #16 Posted March 20, 2017 I can't even find the engine under the hood!!! This is why I wanted spare vehicle just in case I needed to put it in the shop.... Hopefully it hold out till next tax season mechanics want 80-120 an hour. Forgot to mention no engine code. Cam bearing? Wouldn't that be bottom end? Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside. It might be a tap consistent with engine speed. I've dumped cam bearings on a couple different engines and thats what I got. Rods and maybe wriss pins lower, cam bearings are above that but below the heads but that sound vibration can carry. How many miles on this beast?
snyper316 Posted March 20, 2017 #17 Posted March 20, 2017 244372 , what the heck does it do? Cause up to you got valves and the rockers that control the valves then you have on bottom end is lifters and the crank shaft... Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
Yammer Dan Posted March 21, 2017 #18 Posted March 21, 2017 Lol you guys are 👿 yeah it is more of a knocking noise. I almost, I have had rods knocking b4 that noise don't go away this one does after about 3-5 minutes. I just changed the oil less then 2000 miles ago.... Didn't see any sparkles in the oil... Ha I am currently trying to get ahead of @Yammer Dan but due to noise may turn around and go 🏡. Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside. You don't have to worry about me.
CaseyJ955 Posted March 21, 2017 #19 Posted March 21, 2017 244372 , what the heck does it do? Cause up to you got valves and the rockers that control the valves then you have on bottom end is lifters and the crank shaft... Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside. We've never had a GM last over 180k, car or truck, but because of where we live vehicles we own dont have an easy life. I think 244k is pretty damn good even if there is a major problem but with mileage like that it could be anything. A diagnosis would be tricky without hearing it. Is the tapping exactly consistent with engine RPM, engine load or road speed? If it's a rod more than likely it will not quiet down when warm, maybe get worse as things heat up, thats why I'm thinking valve train. Maybe timing or piston slap? Even carbon buildup or a well placed exhaust leak can mimic a rod or lifter tap.
snyper316 Posted March 21, 2017 #20 Posted March 21, 2017 Well if you know what the rattle of mains sound like... But it didn't do it today so heck if I know. Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
CaseyJ955 Posted March 21, 2017 #21 Posted March 21, 2017 Well if you know what the rattle of mains sound like... But it didn't do it today so heck if I know. Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside. I dont want to admit how many engines I have abused to the point of rod bearing failure or other catastrophic failure. I have the sounds permanently etched into my skull. I'm not thinking low end failure for you because it didnt happen today, and it goes away when warm. To hear engine sounds via conduction one could use a long screwdriver, like a cabinet screwdriver, placing the handle against your pinna, in essence pressing your ear closed so you can hear the conduction of vibration through the screwdriver. You will hear things inside the engine you could never hear by just leaning in for a good listen. If there is something in there giving up a nice tap you should be able to localize it fairly well by placing the screwdriver along block, heads for and aft to localize the sound. It works fairly well. Same concept as the mechanics stethoscope. I have isolated PS pump, alternator and WP and trans front pump noise with this method. If the sound is more of an exhaust leak or loose spark plug, like some of the early modular V8s tended to loose the threads and still maybe helpful for some mechanical noises. I use a 4' length of 5/16" fuel line and place one end next to my ear canal and use the other end close to but not touching suspected sources of noise. Have found many exhaust leaks, a few vac leaks and loose plugs that way. It's just a cheap backyard way to try and isolate funky sounds and I find it very effective. With either or both of these you will know when your getting close to an abnormal noise source. Luckily you can listen when it's making noise, and listen again when it quiets down and see where the difference is.
Karaboo Posted March 21, 2017 #22 Posted March 21, 2017 Yeah, I agree that does sound consistent with lifters that don't pump up until they warm up a little. Any bearings under load will get worse with more pressure. Valve trains don't see much change in load, so they would typically be worse before the oil film is up to snuff.
BlueSky Posted March 21, 2017 #23 Posted March 21, 2017 Small world... Might want to check out his thread and take over where he left off. I need to find a tahoe forum because my truck is making heck of racket when it first started in the morning someone told me knock sensor but I am not the one who will go to auto parts store looking for blinker fluid. Also I got scared when I looked under the hood when I was thinking of buying it took me a week and cross my fingers nothing goes wrong.. Too much tech under there... Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside. I would think it is related to the valve train if it makes the noise on startup. Goes away when the lifters pump up or the cam chain tensioner gets presurized by oil if it has one of those. Is it a pushrod engine or OHC?
CaseyJ955 Posted March 21, 2017 #24 Posted March 21, 2017 I would think it is related to the valve train if it makes the noise on startup. Goes away when the lifters pump up or the cam chain tensioner gets presurized by oil if it has one of those. Is it a pushrod engine or OHC? I think he said Tahoe, dont know year but should be chain driven cam/pushrod/hydraulic lifters. Maybe lifters getting gummed up with sludge, not far fetched for a high mileage engine.
snyper316 Posted March 21, 2017 #25 Posted March 21, 2017 Oil changes so far I have given it two and they ain't been black more of a light brown... Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
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