Joining The Ranks Of Ambitious 1st Gen Restorers

[happypunch]

Hello, everyone. I'm new here and introduced myself here.

 

I've wanted a comfortable touring bike for a while now and have been looking at buying a goldwing when I stumbled onto this 84 Venture for sale. I had looked at a Venture Royale last year but the guy was asking too much and I was worried about part availability (read all those down sides on goldwing forums...). Anyway, found this one for cheap and figured it was worth taking a look at. Got there, and even though it was butt ugly, I started getting excited. The test ride was eye opening in how it feels a lot lighter than it is and had plenty of power. The brakes seemed sketchy, but it's 33 year old rubber hoses so that is to be expected. It actually stops fine but you have to pull the handle half way before it really starts to brake. I'm used to my other bikes where just a little squeeze will give you instant feed back. Ended up talking the guy down on the price and took it home.

 

I really like how comfortable this boat is. It has new Dunlop tires and runs great and has had the 2nd gear fixed. It has been dropped and been mistreated but its mostly cosmetic. I already replaced the seat and will move onto the fairing repair/replacement soon.

 

Besides being tired and in need of some lipstick, it does have a few issues such as the headlight only working on low beam and cutting out on high. That seems to likely be the digital computer in need of some attention with a soldering iron. The front suspension bottoms out real easily and with the broken fairing tabs, creates a loud sound when you hit a bump. I will look into the forks pretty soon. It has a small leak and marks it's territory every night. It didn't smell like gas but it's been very wet outside and will need further investigation. The only other real problem is whenever it gets wet it starts running like garbage and the tachometer stops working. seems to idle a bit better but has a big loss in power and not mid/top range to speak of. That seems to likely be the TCI. I will pull it and start cleaning up contacts and grounds. But after 10 miles of riding it seems to fart, stumble and then run perfect again and the tachometer comes back to life.

 

Here are some pics of the ol' bucket. I will try and put them in order of when I got it and what I've done so far.

 

So far I have replaced the old seat that had missing foam and the staples grabbed your crotch! Found a really nice replacement on ebay. Got a replacement gas cover but the key doesn't match. Those 2 things made a big improvement but now I need to either spend a lot of time trying to salvage the fairing or track down a decent replacement and paint the speaker grilles.

[bongobobny]

Welcome aboard!!!

 

OK, this has been mentioned time and time again, the 1st gen MK1 ('83 - '85) brakes are anemic at best! There is a reason why they were redesigned in '86 with 4 piston calipers and electric anti-dive solenoids instead of the hydraulic ones. What you want to do is find yourself a set of front fork lowers from a MK2 and replace them, along with rebuilding the forks with new springs made by Progressive. That way you can bolt on a set of more efficient calipers from a Yamha R1 or R6 from the early 2000's. Replace those old rubber brake lines with a set of Stainless Steel jacketed lines that won't expand when you apply the brakes. You will want to replace your master cylinder with a MK2 as well as you will need the extra volume of hydraulic fluid delivered to the front caliper. Also, you do know that one of your front calipers is hydraulically linked to your rear brake I hope?? Some have de-linked them.

 

The 1st generation Venture is a touring bike with the heart of a sport bike, as you are discovering they handle quite well!!

 

The headlight could be anything from as simple as the bulb being bad, corrosion on the headlight connector, or a defective reserve lighting unit which is a black box on the front frame piece behind all the relays. The RLU detects if one of your headlight filaments, or one or two tail lights as well, are burned out, and it automatically switches on the headlight to the high beam and lights up a white "headlight" light on the dash. Other issues could be a problem with the cmu. Three is a detailed wiring diagram in the First Generation Tech Library, and there is a downloadable factory service there as well! There is also an owner's manual so you can familiarize yourself with all the features of your bike and how things are supposed to work!!

 

Your issue with poor wet running is most likely water inside the case of your Transistor Controlled Ignition (TCI) unit. They are troublesome and impossible to buy new, but there ARE aftermarket units out there! The tach receives it's electrical information from the trigger pulse for the #2 coil primary, specifically the gray line. So, if it runs like it is missing and the tach quits, that is why! The issue could also be corroded connectors from the TCI. The TCI is located under the coil pack, many of us have relocated it to the top of the airbox to better protect it. The leads are long enough to allow for this relocation. You can take the cover off and bake it in an oven for a few hours at around 250 to 275 degrees to try to dry it out, then put a bead of dielectric grease or vasoline on the cover to help waterproof it. The problem being, there are 8 diodes on the PC board that physically deteriorate, a burn the whole circuitry out, and if they are not replaced can burn out the entire circuitry.

 

Good luck, we ARE here to help!!

[Yammer Dan]

Its BLUE!!!

[snyper316]

Looks like fun, wondering what the blue tape is trying to hide tho, body creases not lined up.... or is it actually holding it together?2

[CaseyJ955]

What a great project. I to almost ended up on a Wing, nice bikes but the Venture fit me better. I see fairings on Ebay on the cheap now and then besides a few guys here with parts bikes. Also nice score on the ultimate color, blue is +5hp and and +2 mpg. Welcome!

[happypunch]

Looks like fun, wondering what the blue tape is trying to hide tho, body creases not lined up.... or is it actually holding it together?2

 

It is sort of holding it together. It's just painter's tape so not very strong but there are chunks of missing plastic. I removed the tape today and found the lower fairing was only held on with 1 bolt and very wobbly. After a quick once over I found at least 6 missing bolts in the front and probably more. The thing is held on with wishes and unicorn tears right now, I don't know how I could ride it on the freeway without it ripping off!

 

I kind of like the blue. Maybe it will look better once it's cleaned up but I'm not a fan of a lot of 70's-80's brown/gold color schemes. I have a bunch of old Chevy's and they made some really gross choices. Maybe brown and baby poo beige looked good once it left the factory (unlikely) but it didn't improve with age.

[snyper316]

Heck My right fairing is held in place with bolts, washers and zip ties then the left side has got 2 bolts one nut, and no zip ties. the lower left is held on by one screw and two zipties. crazyiness wanted to get it running good then worry about that stuff later. just debating whether to repaint it or clear coat it and my bike is brown, ruby red and maroon lol....

[CaseyJ955]

It is sort of holding it together. It's just painter's tape so not very strong but there are chunks of missing plastic. I removed the tape today and found the lower fairing was only held on with 1 bolt and very wobbly. After a quick once over I found at least 6 missing bolts in the front and probably more. The thing is held on with wishes and unicorn tears right now, I don't know how I could ride it on the freeway without it ripping off!

 

I kind of like the blue. Maybe it will look better once it's cleaned up but I'm not a fan of a lot of 70's-80's brown/gold color schemes. I have a bunch of old Chevy's and they made some really gross choices. Maybe brown and baby poo beige looked good once it left the factory (unlikely) but it didn't improve with age.

 

I had to think back on some brown vehicles I've had. Im done with brown. Lariat XLT, f250, f350, e350, country squire sw, comet, 240d, 300sd, 300sdl, hornet, v8pinto, gremlin x, mustang grande, javelin, eagle sedan, and a vw bus. No more brown vehicles! Had the right blonde Venture presented at the right price I might have but I was happy to find blue. Red would have worked too. I painted my Vmax blue, not much more real estate on a Venture and it can be any color you like.

[cowpuc]

Hi HappyPunch and to VR = glad you found us!! Also, congrats on the awesome scoot - these ol 1st Gens may be ugly (personally - I always thought my 1st Gens were complimentary to my own reflection and they are purdy beyond words) but once they are sorted out - they are all heart!!! All the best wishes in sorting yours out and discover that heart my friend!!

Puc

 

PS - I knew Yammer Dan was gonna be as soon as I clicked on your thread here and saw the first pic:missingtooth:

[videoarizona]

Welcome to the Best Place On Earth!

 

The missing pieces are easy to fix yourself. You can make your own tabs, almost all of the screws and bolts can be found at an Ace or True Value store, just bring in a similar one and match up. The parts book that can be downloaded in the 1st gen tech section has the parts numbers for the screws and bolts. The number lists the size and length as part of the number! I forget the sequence but I'm sure that someone else will chip in and make that clear!

 

Suggest you make a repair list then start searching the archives and old posts. If you find an oldie post where the links don't work or pics are missing, contact @Freebird. Don is our resident Boss and he can find and repair the links. By searching, you will find just about everything you need to rebuild and repair your scoot to where she will blow the doors off of any Goldwind you find, and do so comfortably!

 

Again, welcome and join up. Best $12/year you will ever spend!

[happypunch]

Thanks for making me feel welcome. These types of forums can be life savers, especially when the members are friendly. I'm still trying to learn to navigate the forum and try to search before I ask a question that has probably been asked 1000x before.

 

That leads me to my next question that I couldn't find an answer via the search feature. Can the gas tank lock be re-keyed to match the rest of my locks? All of my locks match (even the bike lock chain) except for the tank cover. I would really like for them all to match but don't know if it is even possible. I can always live with having a second key, but every time I start the bike my OCD gives me fits about them all not matching.

 

I searched ebay for replacement lock kits to replace everything but can't find a complete set. Usually find the ignition and luggage but not helmet locks, fairing pocket covers, etc...

[snyper316]

Possibly let me check

 

Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.

[snyper316]

Shoot struck out, it is missing the helmet lock and gas lock...

 

Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.

[CaseyJ955]

There is a member in the classefieds that cuts spare keys, seems to me he had the ability to sometimes pull that off. A question for him to be sure. I recently talked to him about keys but got busy but I should have his info. Ill check and get back after supper.

[BlueSky]

A locksmith might just change the lock so your key will work.

 

I had a 1981 Honda CB900C that a PO had installed a Goldwing fairing and jury rigged the GW trunk and saddlebags on to the bike. I changed the lock on the trunk so the ignition key would work by taking it apart and removing or moving the tumblers around so the ignition key would unlock it. Take a look at it and see if you can disassemble the lock.

[snyper316]

There is a member in the classefieds that cuts spare keys, seems to me he had the ability to sometimes pull that off. A question for him to be sure. I recently talked to him about keys but got busy but I should have his info. Ill check and get back after supper.

 

He is trying to get to all locks with just one Key..... I thought I had one saved but it is missing one helmet lock and the gas tank....

 

 

I have spare dash parts for your bike also I had taken it apart in an attempt to put on my bike but backed off and just stuck the pieces in a box... I am not sure of functionality of any of it tho as the guy I traded it for didn't know functionality of it either. He just acquired the 83 royal and standard, and he sent me the royal dash which according to the parts cache online it was the same as mine but ended up being totally different...

[CaseyJ955]

He is trying to get to all locks with just one Key..... I thought I had one saved but it is missing one helmet lock and the gas tank....

 

 

I have spare dash parts for your bike also I had taken it apart in an attempt to put on my bike but backed off and just stuck the pieces in a box... I am not sure of functionality of any of it tho as the guy I traded it for didn't know functionality of it either. He just acquired the 83 royal and standard, and he sent me the royal dash which according to the parts cache online it was the same as mine but ended up being totally different...

. I may be wrong but I think it might be possible to cut one key for different tumbler sets. The members handle is heartbeat. He might have some idea that eludes my non-locksmithy self

[happypunch]

Thanks, guys. I saw an ad from that member about making replacement keys. I will try and contact him, plus a spare key is always nice.

 

Another question, how can I identify which forks are on the bike? I dont want to buy 86+ forks if someone already replaced them.

[BlueSky]

Count the caliper pistons. the MkIIs have 4 piston calipers.

[Patmac6075]

As far as rekeying a lock....it's not that difficult.

Route #1 , find an old school brick and mortar locksmith (preferably someone who was in business when your bike was new). If he's worth his salt, he should get it done in a day (probably 25mins of his time) and charge you less than $50.

 

Route #2 you can do it yourself...I did, on one of my XJ750's...the locks come apart pretty easy...you just need to get the tumblers in the correct sequence. The problem here is, you need to know the tumbler sequence for the way you want the lock to be keyed, and you have to have all of the correct tumblers to key the new lock. I was lucky because I had the broken original lock assemblies and the replacement assemblies and I just did one for one swaps.

[gaj1917]

Welcome aboard happypunch. As you’ve already discovered, there are lots of folks on this site with gobs of experience with Ventures. I’ll add my two-cents worth.

I also own a blue ’84. I purchased it in ’96 and have been riding it ever since.

 

 

Here are a few things that I’ve discovered.

1. These bikes came with a plastic water pump impeller that was prone to failure. When I opened my pump, I discovered someone had already been there and replaced the original impeller with a metal one. You may want to check yours.

2. The stators tended to overheat and quit. This happened to me during the year I drove the bike in the high temps of the Inland Empire of Southern California. Yamaha eventually developed a stator cooling kit for these bikes. You may want to check your stator and verify that a cooling kit has been installed.

3. As you’ve already heard, braking power on these bikes is not so good. Many suggest upgrading to R1 or R6 callipers. I’m sure they work wonders, but IMHO I think your money is better spent on other things, such as 1 and 2 above. I “fixed” my brakes by installing stainless steel brake lines and rebuilding the callipers (new pistons and seals). The SS lines made a huge difference. You’d want to install these lines even if you go the R1/R6 route.

4. Your front fork seals will leak if not already. Replace the seals, and while you’re at it, the internals with new parts, including progressive springs. This can be done without removing the forks. I can point you to an instructional video if interested.

5. The odometer and tachometer gauges will seize up eventually unless you get some lube in there. Not easy. Do it while you have all the plastic off to install SS lines.

6. My rear mono-shock got to the point where it wouldn’t hold air. I’m replacing that this winter. Picked up a used one on eBay. eBay can be a good source for parts. There are still many OEM parts available. I find Partshark hard to beat on price.

7. The clutch is a weak point. You’ll get slippage. Running a 20W50 oil, like Castrol, helps but the best solution is replacing the clutch plates and springs with high-end aftermarket ones. I installed Barnett brand.

8. The starters are a bit anaemic, especially once the engine has warmed up. I replaced mine with a 4-brush-starter from a 2006 XVZ1300. Any XVZ or VMX from ’91 to 2013 will have the much better starters. You'll find lots on eBay.

9. Plastic repair is an ongoing affair. Here are some very good hints for repair - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Plastics_repair_with_ABS_cement

10. Last, 2nd gear fails. You’re lucky yours has been fixed. I had to do mine two years ago. Not for the faint of heart!

 

Have fun.

[happypunch]

I found a pair of forks on ebay from an 86 and since there was 24 minutes left, I ended up ordering them. I will need to get some new rotors and calipers. I have read different things and want to make sure I do it right, what rotors and calipers do I need? I read somewhere to get 1998-2001 Yamaha R1 calipers. I am assuming that just about anything will be an upgrade but it is kind of hard to find certain year stock parts. I'm not dropping $2k on a set of Brembo's... What about rotors? get some from an 86+ venture or need to get them from whatever bike I end up buying the calipers from?

 

I picked up some 20w50 oil from Walmart and need to track down an oil filter. I need to run errands tomorrow and will see what the Yamaha dealer can do for me. I tend to avoid dealerships because they mark up everything so much but the yamaha dealership here is surprisingly cheap. I got a genuine oem speedometer cable for my 83 Xt250 for the same price as the aftermarket ones online and it got here in 2 days.

 

A few days ago it rained again and the bike predictably ran like crap. After it dried out it ran great. I need to dig in there and check out what previous owners have done, maybe they relocated the TCI or did some butchery in the wiring. Havent run across an old bike that didn't need the grounds cleaned and connections looked over. My problem could be minimized by simply using the bike cover... One day I will clean out my garage, right now I've got an old suburban in there that needed a rear main seal and of course I got side tracked with life and other projects and it's been sitting for 2 years...

 

How long do these engines tend to last if taken care of? I've got 70k miles on mine, should I start saving up to rebuild it soon? I know that can be a hard question to answer, just because someone gets 200k miles doesn't mean anyone else will. I like a bike that has been run consistently over the years and hasn't been parked for long periods of time. I'm not afraid of high mileage but suspect I should start putting a some in the piggy bank for big repairs.

 

Put about 300 miles on it so far and still really love it. I do only city driving on the last tank and got 26 mpg. Not bad considering all the stop and go and short distances. I got 35 mpg on mixed driving and suspect I could do pretty well on a road trip. Idaho has a speed limit of 80 mph, so probably wouldn't get the best on the freeway. Although I was only running about 3800 rpm on the freeway, so maybe it will be better than I suspect. Times have changed a lot since it rolled off the factory line. 55 mph was the norm back then, now everyone wants to get where they're going as fast as possible.

 

One other quick thing. I have noticed that the bike really doesn't care for sharp turns and it feels squishy. I thought my rear wheel was falling off at first! tire pressure is good, bearings are good... is it the frame flexing that I'm feeling? Really makes me nervous, it feels like a passenger is squirming around on the back.

[CaseyJ955]

I found a pair of forks on ebay from an 86 and since there was 24 minutes left, I ended up ordering them. I will need to get some new rotors and calipers. I have read different things and want to make sure I do it right, what rotors and calipers do I need? I read somewhere to get 1998-2001 Yamaha R1 calipers. I am assuming that just about anything will be an upgrade but it is kind of hard to find certain year stock parts. I'm not dropping $2k on a set of Brembo's... What about rotors? get some from an 86+ venture or need to get them from whatever bike I end up buying the calipers from?

 

I picked up some 20w50 oil from Walmart and need to track down an oil filter. I need to run errands tomorrow and will see what the Yamaha dealer can do for me. I tend to avoid dealerships because they mark up everything so much but the yamaha dealership here is surprisingly cheap. I got a genuine oem speedometer cable for my 83 Xt250 for the same price as the aftermarket ones online and it got here in 2 days.

 

How long do these engines tend to last if taken care of? I've got 70k miles on mine, should I start saving up to rebuild it soon? I know that can be a hard question to answer, just because someone gets 200k miles doesn't mean anyone else will. I like a bike that has been run consistently over the years and hasn't been parked for long periods of time. I'm not afraid of high mileage but suspect I should start putting a some in the piggy bank for big repairs.

 

One other quick thing. I have noticed that the bike really doesn't care for sharp turns and it feels squishy. I thought my rear wheel was falling off at first! tire pressure is good, bearings are good... is it the frame flexing that I'm feeling? Really makes me nervous, it feels like a passenger is squirming around on the back.

 

I threw some R6 calipers on mine, they bolt right on but the factory lines wont want to bolt up to them, the contour is wrong so a good time for some braided lines. I've heard some say that even some decent pads with the OEM calipers will make a good difference. I delinked my brakes at the same time. I got my calipers off Ebay for 50 shipped for the pair of blue dots (steel pistons). It came with braided lines that just happened to fit.

 

Make sure the oil you got has no "friction modifiers" or "energy conserving" qualities, bad for the clutch many say. A popular choice is Rotella 15-40 diesel oil. I use it in my Venture and Vmax and I know plenty of others use it as well.

 

If it's been cared for 70k is young. Theres a lot of these V4s out there going strong with twice that mileage but without a service history it's tough to tell. A compression check will tell you a lot, maybe plan on a valve adjustment if you dont know when it was done last.

 

There are a few things this can be and some of the wiser folks might have more, but the rear swing arm bearings are probably the first thing I would look at from what you describe. If that checks out you might as well check steering head bearings, if they have not been inspected/repacked they need it that, vid link below. Mine also has 70k and I just replaced the steering bearings/races with an All Balls set. Fork brace not broken? Fork oil good? Some of the early ones had issues with frame corrosion, not sure how long that went on but inspection of the frame to make sure no fatigue or corrosion is probably a sound idea. I'm sure others will more experience will have more answers.

that.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvtI4wEUCwE.

[happypunch]

What year R6 calipers did you use?

 

I'm not sure how I feel about the linked brakes. Wasn't it supposed to be an improvement? First few rides had me scratching my head about the crappy front brake and surprisingly strong rear. Then I find out that the front lever only activates 1 side of the front calipers and the rear brake does the other and the back... I bet it would feel a lot better if the front lever actually activated both calipers. As of right now I tend to use both at the same time. Went for a short ride tonight and tried just using the rear brake and it stopped alright, i guess. really have to stomp on the pedal before it starts gripping and I don't like having to think each time I apply the brakes. If I have to think about it every time, I'm going to get confused during a panic stop and mess up. I will probably de-link them so it behaves like every other bike I've ever ridden.

[snyper316]

What year R6 calipers did you use?

 

I'm not sure how I feel about the linked brakes. Wasn't it supposed to be an improvement? First few rides had me scratching my head about the crappy front brake and surprisingly strong rear. Then I find out that the front lever only activates 1 side of the front calipers and the rear brake does the other and the back... I bet it would feel a lot better if the front lever actually activated both calipers. As of right now I tend to use both at the same time. Went for a short ride tonight and tried just using the rear brake and it stopped alright, i guess. really have to stomp on the pedal before it starts gripping and I don't like having to think each time I apply the brakes. If I have to think about it every time, I'm going to get confused during a panic stop and mess up. I will probably de-link them so it behaves like every other bike I've ever ridden.

'

 

I had a shop put mine on the first go around since it was there anyways and it was only 30 to have it done.. all together it was under a 100 for all the brakes and him to install and bleed them all out after he replaced fork seals... I didn't want to screw my forks up... but I grab both brakes I better be ready to go thru windscreen... Mine is all OEM brakes and still linked but I do notice I use the front more then the pedal so when I go to hit the pedal they feel a bit sluggish so I will use them at the next stop and there fine after that... but I would not count on them for an ALL STOP!! Hate to say I may abondon ship if it seems safer....