Bassett Posted February 26, 2017 Author #76 Posted February 26, 2017 BOBBER IGNITION!!!! Thanks bongobobny!!!! Ok so please someone give me an opinion..... B/W should or should not be grounded?? (Coming from TCI) my drawing wing shows it grounded, but I'm having second thoughts because it looks like the TCI is looking for a ground there to shut off.. please help!
snyper316 Posted February 26, 2017 #77 Posted February 26, 2017 The black and white wire does not have to be hooked up, but it is basically your safety switches wire. Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
Bassett Posted February 26, 2017 Author #78 Posted February 26, 2017 The black and white wire does not have to be hooked up, but it is basically your safety switches wire. Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside. Ok so the b/w is looking for a ground to KILL the TCI! I snipped it and it starts now!!!!
snyper316 Posted February 26, 2017 #79 Posted February 26, 2017 Ok so the b/w is looking for a ground to KILL the TCI! I snipped it and it starts now!!!! Yeah just make sure you put up your kickstand before you take off!!! Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
Bassett Posted February 27, 2017 Author #80 Posted February 27, 2017 Yeah just make sure you put up your kickstand before you take off!!! Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside. Yep!
bongobobny Posted February 27, 2017 #81 Posted February 27, 2017 Yes, as you discovered, the B/W line is a kill line for ignition! Ground will appear on that line if either you try to run with the kickstand down, or the bike falls over. Myself I would leave those features active for safety reasons but that is your choice...
snyper316 Posted February 27, 2017 #82 Posted February 27, 2017 Remember he chopped lines bongo Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
Flyinfool Posted February 27, 2017 #83 Posted February 27, 2017 The tip over switch is what prevents you from laying in a pool of gasoline should the bike ever go down. With out the tip over switch the pump will just keep pumping until it sucks air in the tank. the floats in the carbs can not stop the flow when the bike is on its side. I have seen people take off with a side stand down, it is never pretty. Safety features are not where I would minimalize.
snyper316 Posted February 27, 2017 #84 Posted February 27, 2017 Well he knows where to start looking for what wires he chopped. Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
CaseyJ955 Posted February 27, 2017 #85 Posted February 27, 2017 Yes, as you discovered, the B/W line is a kill line for ignition! Ground will appear on that line if either you try to run with the kickstand down, or the bike falls over. Myself I would leave those features active for safety reasons but that is your choice... +1, the safety features are pretty nice, and they should all be able to be tucked away out of sight. The kickstand kill switch saves me at least a time or two each season.
snyper316 Posted February 27, 2017 #86 Posted February 27, 2017 +1, the safety features are pretty nice, and they should all be able to be tucked away out of sight. The kickstand kill switch saves me at least a time or two each season. Kind of why I'm glad I got new to me TCI because my old box would not shut the bike down like it was supposed to, you would think flashing red light with sign would tell ya something!!! Not that I would know anything about taken off with kickstand down..... Or the bike falling over and not shutting down... Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
Bassett Posted March 1, 2017 Author #87 Posted March 1, 2017 What would call the rear brake pedal to seize? No locked back tire....
snyper316 Posted March 1, 2017 #88 Posted March 1, 2017 What would call the rear brake pedal to seize? No locked back tire.... Well it is an 83 after all, Did you find your ground problem for your safetys? Bad Caliper, Plugged holes bad lines. A number of different things.
Bassett Posted March 1, 2017 Author #89 Posted March 1, 2017 Well it is an 83 after all, Did you find your ground problem for your safetys? Bad Caliper, Plugged holes bad lines. A number of different things. No ground problem because there is no safeties 😅 Wheres a good place to start with this brake pedal issue? Front calipers have no fluid because I rebuilt the cylinder.
snyper316 Posted March 1, 2017 #90 Posted March 1, 2017 No ground problem because there is no safeties 😅 Wheres a good place to start with this brake pedal issue? Front calipers have no fluid because I rebuilt the cylinder. I would invest in safety bracelet kill switch then, Is your brake pedal itself stuck?
Bassett Posted March 1, 2017 Author #91 Posted March 1, 2017 I would invest in safety bracelet kill switch then, Is your brake pedal itself stuck? Yeah I step on the pedal and it doesn't move. Lol
snyper316 Posted March 1, 2017 #92 Posted March 1, 2017 Yeah I step on the pedal and it doesn't move. Lol Well have you tried loosening the bolt there to see if the pedal itself will move or if it was stuck. I have had that happen but not on the bike I curently have
Bassett Posted March 1, 2017 Author #93 Posted March 1, 2017 I would invest in safety bracelet kill switch then, Is your brake pedal itself stuck? Yeah. When I step on it to "apply" the brake it's stiff as a nail and doesn't budge.
Bassett Posted March 1, 2017 Author #94 Posted March 1, 2017 Well have you tried loosening the bolt there to see if the pedal itself will move or if it was stuck. I have had that happen but not on the bike I curently have No no haven't removed the pedal.
snyper316 Posted March 1, 2017 #95 Posted March 1, 2017 Wasnt talking about removing the pedal itself, trying to remember how ours hooks up to the brakes I know its fluid driven but thinking there is a way to move the pedal an adjust it and all that stuff.
camos Posted March 1, 2017 #96 Posted March 1, 2017 Well it is an 83 after all, Did you find your ground problem for your safetys? Bad Caliper, Plugged holes bad lines. A number of different things.Several things can cause the pedal to feel seized. Those already discussed and air locked brake fluid which can make the pedal feel like it's pressing on a brick. Best thing I can suggest is oil the pedal pivot points and then do a proper bleed job. After getting the left front caliper together of course. Since you have a MkI and it's all apart consider adding an mid-point bleed valve at the head bearing like the MkII's have. I'm not very familiar with MkI's but believe there is a fitting at the forward end of the engine where a hose or tube could be attached and run up to the steering head for convenience.
Bassett Posted March 6, 2017 Author #97 Posted March 6, 2017 Several things can cause the pedal to feel seized. Those already discussed and air locked brake fluid which can make the pedal feel like it's pressing on a brick. Best thing I can suggest is oil the pedal pivot points and then do a proper bleed job. After getting the left front caliper together of course. Since you have a MkI and it's all apart consider adding an mid-point bleed valve at the head bearing like the MkII's have. I'm not very familiar with MkI's but believe there is a fitting at the forward end of the engine where a hose or tube could be attached and run up to the steering head for convenience. Its the pedal that that is having issues. I removed the bolts for the rear master cylinder be steped on the pedal still hard as a rock. I've been spraying lubricant on it daily. Is there a faster way to get this to work any better??
snyper316 Posted March 6, 2017 #98 Posted March 6, 2017 Tap it with rubber mallet? Living life one curve after the other. Vroom scooting, thru the countryside.
camos Posted March 6, 2017 #99 Posted March 6, 2017 Its the pedal that that is having issues. I removed the bolts for the rear master cylinder be steped on the pedal still hard as a rock. I've been spraying lubricant on it daily. Is there a faster way to get this to work any better??The pedal and linkage have several pivot points that could be corroded. Since they are all linked together, any one of those points could be causing the stiffness. The MkI's have an adjustable pedal that slides fore and aft but, since I have only had a MkII I don't know if that could be a source of any seizure issues. I'm not sure what the difficulty is here, just pull it all apart and clean it up.
snyper316 Posted March 6, 2017 #100 Posted March 6, 2017 Yeah I been trying to understand where he is at and if his brake pedal is even linked to anything. If it isn't I am wondering where exactly it is froze up at so the only suggestion I can go with is what Clive said at this time and pull it completely off clean it up lube it real good put it back together....
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now