Quick horn question

[baylensman]

Previous post shows i've been having issues.

Well i went and bought the "Wolo Bad boy" that so many have recommended.

I tried to do up my own bracket but not having access to shop anymore; my vise, hammer and clamp attempts left a little to be desired.

 

Well I ordered Larry's bracket, Its is what i was trying to with some cold roll and a hammer. I also followed his instructions as to setting up the relay electrically.

 

I ran into an issue that may explain why the factory horn on the right side didn't work. When testing the brown wire/pink wire( both where dusty and hard to tell what color. I use my trusty volt meter. With the key, on both leads had battery voltage (11.92 guess i pushed it far enough that it needs to be replaced oh well 10 years on the stocker aint bad) So I have two wires that came down into single push on connectors, that were attached to each other with 2 peices of V shaped plastic so that they would push right onto the horn contacts.

The question I guess is where in the harness would there be a short that lets both of these wire have 12 volts with the key one? Now the voltage doesn't change when i hit the horn button on either wire but the left horn in the fairing, now is much louder than when I had the old horn connected.

[Sexagenarian]

I have a 97 RSTD so I could be wrong but with the horn attached to those wires you should read voltage on both of them. Typically the horn switch provides a path to ground completing the circuit for the horn. By pulling off the horn, the pink wire should now have a zero potential because its path to the brown wire would have been through the horn. To verify the short exists, did you read the voltage on the two wires with the horn still connected, or after it was disconnected from the circuit.

I also purchased the bracket from Carbon and it worked perfectly on my RSTD.

-Wayne

[baylensman]

I have a 97 RSTD so I could be wrong but with the horn attached to those wires you should read voltage on both of them. Typically the horn switch provides a path to ground completing the circuit for the horn. By pulling off the horn, the pink wire should now have a zero potential because its path to the brown wire would have been through the horn. To verify the short exists, did you read the voltage on the two wires with the horn still connected, or after it was disconnected from the circuit.

I also purchased the bracket from Carbon and it worked perfectly on my RSTD.

-Wayne

 

all readings were with the horn disconnected. I tired both wires as is with key on and both with key on and horn button depressed there was no change at either wire under either condition. I assume with the volt meter attached to battery ground and the red probe in the stay con one wire or the other shut go to zero volts with the horn button depressed.

 

The evidence that leads me to the short theory is that the LEFT horn inside the fairing is now much louder and the tone is more consistent

[Flyinfool]

The brown wire is the main power to everything that is on the "SIGNAL" fuse when the key is on. This is a lot of stuff. The pink wire goes from the horns to the horn switch and the switch provides the ground for the horns.

If you only unplugged one of the horns you will still see 12V on both of the pink wires and both of the brown wires. When you press the horn button and the horn is blowing the pink wire should drop to near zero volts. If you unplug both horns, then there should be 12 v on the brown wire but nothing on the pink wire. If you press the horn button with both horns disconnected there should be no change to the nothing on the pink wire.