Bassett Posted February 11, 2017 Author #26 Posted February 11, 2017 Didn't quite fit. So I improvised.
Bassett Posted February 15, 2017 Author #29 Posted February 15, 2017 Looks so nice. Too bad I forgot to put the spindles in. Time to tear back off. 😩
Flyinfool Posted February 15, 2017 #30 Posted February 15, 2017 Since you are rebuilding the forks, I hope you put in new progressive springs. AND if you put in new progressive springs then you do not need the anti dive system any more. Member Skydoc_17 makes a set of Stainless Steel block off plates to cover the holes in the lower forks. You could paint them to match and have a cleaner look and better performance and not having the anti dives sucking off precious braking pressure.
Condor Posted February 15, 2017 #31 Posted February 15, 2017 Here's one I've always liked. http://cast-aways.com/images/chopper%20(Small).jpg
Bassett Posted February 15, 2017 Author #32 Posted February 15, 2017 Since you are rebuilding the forks, I hope you put in new progressive springs. AND if you put in new progressive springs then you do not need the anti dive system any more. Member Skydoc_17 makes a set of Stainless Steel block off plates to cover the holes in the lower forks. You could paint them to match and have a cleaner look and better performance and not having the anti dives sucking off precious braking pressure. Nice. I will keep that in mind for next time I rebuild!! Thanks!
camos Posted February 15, 2017 #33 Posted February 15, 2017 Member Skydoc_17 makes a set of Stainless Steel block off plates to cover the holes in the lower forks.I have a set of those block off plates that I have not gotten around to installing. I put it off because I read on here somewhere that they needed to have some kind of pressure relief built into them for the forks to work properly. Do you know anything about that?
Flyinfool Posted February 15, 2017 #34 Posted February 15, 2017 MK1s do not need the pressure relief. It is only the MK2s that may or may not need it, I guess that comes down to personal preference and how you like the bike to feel under you.Some say they need it and some say they dont. But the MK1 and MK2 work completely opposite of each other, so the MK1 never needs the anti dive IF you have progressive springs.
cowpuc Posted February 15, 2017 #35 Posted February 15, 2017 :sign yeah that::sign yeah that: MK1 forks + Progressives + 12.5 weight fork oil + 1" of preload + new bushings + new seals - anti dives - any air in forks = :biker::checkeredflag:
cowpuc Posted February 16, 2017 #38 Posted February 16, 2017 Looking,, ummmmmmmmmm,,,,,, VENTURONONIMOUSLYFANTASYIC!!!:thumbsup: :sign Rock On::sign Rock On::sign Rock On: BASSATT!!!
camos Posted February 16, 2017 #39 Posted February 16, 2017 MK1s do not need the pressure relief. It is only the MK2s that may or may not need it, I guess that comes down to personal preference and how you like the bike to feel under you.Some say they need it and some say they dont. But the MK1 and MK2 work completely opposite of each other, so the MK1 never needs the anti dive IF you have progressive springs.My 90 doesn't have progressives but I disconnected the anti-dives due to battery problems and didn't get to the block off plates before replacing it with the 89. Can't say I noticed much difference in the ride. Was thinking of putting them on the 89 so was curious. @Basset: Now would be a good time to put some gaiters on the forks. They keep the seals from getting attacked by road crud. Style is personal but I like the look of gaiters on the Venture and think they look even better on a bobber plus without a fairing the forks will be more exposed.
Bassett Posted February 20, 2017 Author #40 Posted February 20, 2017 just some stuff from this weekend. making this cover is pretty radical.. all the screws were just to pull the metal to the plastic.. they wont be there when finished.. probably just rivets every inch or so.. also, wiring up this new tach/speedo, is pretty tricky.. the pictures in the back of the bike are where i chopped my frame.. i put 4 inch rubber plugs in there to be a backer for when i coat it with filler.. the seat pan now has some foam pool noodles on it, for making a custom seat.. will see how it goes. if not will order spring seat.. ordering progressive springs from JP tonight. hopefully can install them this week. mounting the rear fender has been a pain so thats where i stopped tonight.. making two exact metal rod braces have been the death of me. but i worked about 24 total hours on this bike over the weekend. it was a killer because it was 60 degrees out and i heard bikes ripping all around . but its going along nicely.
bongobobny Posted February 20, 2017 #41 Posted February 20, 2017 Ahh, I missed the fact that is also a tachometer, so yes the R/B is probably your gray line. I mistook the dial for the speedometer and the description of the tachometer is misleading on the first page... Of course the description of the R/B wire says "Speed signal" but so does the W/B but it says "THE speed signal!!!"
Bassett Posted February 20, 2017 Author #42 Posted February 20, 2017 Ahh, I missed the fact that is also a tachometer, so yes the R/B is probably your gray line. I mistook the dial for the speedometer and the description of the tachometer is misleading on the first page... Of course the description of the R/B wire says "Speed signal" but so does the W/B but it says "THE speed signal!!!" Hahaha yes I know!!! This manual is really funny. They have a color called "powder" and some other funny stuff dobi need to hook up the RB to all the coils or just one coil?
bongobobny Posted February 20, 2017 #43 Posted February 20, 2017 Just one coil. If you hook up all 4 coils it will read 4 times the RPM's. Now, here's a possible issue, each plug fires twice per revolution. The reason for the "fire" on the exhaust stroke is to burn off and residual gas that may not have burned on the power stroke. It's kind of an emissions deal. Your tach may read twice the actual RPM's...
Bassett Posted February 21, 2017 Author #44 Posted February 21, 2017 Just one coil. If you hook up all 4 coils it will read 4 times the RPM's. Now, here's a possible issue, each plug fires twice per revolution. The reason for the "fire" on the exhaust stroke is to burn off and residual gas that may not have burned on the power stroke. It's kind of an emissions deal. Your tach may read twice the actual RPM's...[/quote how how does Yamaha go around that?
Bassett Posted February 21, 2017 Author #45 Posted February 21, 2017 Just one coil. If you hook up all 4 coils it will read 4 times the RPM's. Now, here's a possible issue, each plug fires twice per revolution. The reason for the "fire" on the exhaust stroke is to burn off and residual gas that may not have burned on the power stroke. It's kind of an emissions deal. Your tach may read twice the actual RPM's... How does Yamaha go around that?
Flyinfool Posted February 21, 2017 #47 Posted February 21, 2017 For Yamaha to get around it is easy they just designed the whole system to work together, they are not using an aftermarket off the shelf tach. Sometimes on a tach you can lie to it about what it is connected to. I once had a car with wasted spark ignition on a V8, I told the tach it was connected to a 4 cyl to get it to read correctly. If your tach has a selection for 2 cycle engine, use that it it will then read correct. Just have to play with what they give you till you find what works out. I often lie to various pieces of electronics to get the end result that I am after.
Bassett Posted February 23, 2017 Author #48 Posted February 23, 2017 For Yamaha to get around it is easy they just designed the whole system to work together, they are not using an aftermarket off the shelf tach. Sometimes on a tach you can lie to it about what it is connected to. I once had a car with wasted spark ignition on a V8, I told the tach it was connected to a 4 cyl to get it to read correctly. If your tach has a selection for 2 cycle engine, use that it it will then read correct. Just have to play with what they give you till you find what works out. I often lie to various pieces of electronics to get the end result that I am after. Good advise. Thanks!!! can you do the pvc and come filter in replace of an air box without re jetting?
Flyinfool Posted February 23, 2017 #49 Posted February 23, 2017 Usually on these bikes any messing with the air box or air filter will need rejetting. Any drastic changes to the exhaust will also need rejetting. People have tried to drill a couple of 1/2 inch holes in the air box to let in more air and ended up having to seal those hole up to get it to run right again.
camos Posted February 24, 2017 #50 Posted February 24, 2017 Usually on these bikes any messing with the air box or air filter will need rejetting. Any drastic changes to the exhaust will also need rejetting. People have tried to drill a couple of 1/2 inch holes in the air box to let in more air and ended up having to seal those hole up to get it to run right again.Exactly right, however in this case, bobberizing it will make a good case for getting rid of the air box because it is too big and ugly to keep. My suggestion would be to use PVC pipes out each side to cone filters and rather than re-jetting mess with throttling the air intake using washers to get it back to near the OEM restriction. The air box is large but the actual inlet is quite small. Anyway, I think it would be a lot easier to adjust that way than re-jetting would be.
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